Hi! This whole system mimics the petrol injection system and actually replaces the fuel completely. When the LPG reducer reaches a high enough temp (35 degrees Celsius) the LPG computer switches off the petrol injectors and swithes on the LPG ones. When there is no high pressure (threshold can be adjusted) in the LPG rubber lines this means the LPG fuel is getting low and all is swithced back to petrol automatically.

Nice comment man! Thanks! Chak puk mrasen, a i nali posle shte se izmia...

@@mitchoniauto😂

Hi. I am preparing another video or two of other installations and I intend on doing a voice over so that I can explain some of the steps. I will do my best to include the diagram for the connections. If you have something in mind you can ask me.

​@mitchoniauto did you run hoses from the injectors into the intake? Usually I see injectors going into the intake. Still learning about this system tho

Hello! Unfortunately I do not speak your language and cannot understand what you are saying...

Why do you think this is necessary?

@@mitchoniauto Rust prevention.

Hi there! Not sure I understand your "comment" but thanks anyway!

Hi, mate! It sure IS NOT eight minutes :) It would have been nice to be that fast and easy though!!! It took more like 3 (not full) days. There is some work to it. :)))

Nope. I did not do that yet. May be I should have done that by now...

Just did the chain guides and vanos rebuild on my 01 740iL. Piece of cake, took a few days, going at it at a casual pace. Should MOST always use OE or OEM parts..just my two cents. Just because these e38/e39 are pushing 20+ years, does not mean they should not still be treated and maintained as the $70,000 cars they were in their prime.

@@imabozoMeng 100% agreed on using OEM chains and guides. I am almost certain that BMW made an upgrade of the plastic chain guides and not sure if one can trust aftermarket versions. Was it easy to undo and redo the Crank Pulley cause torque specs of that bolt are crazy...? 😵‍💫

@@mitchoniauto Funny you ask, I snapped two 1/2" breaker bars before switching to an impact for removal. Torquing the new crank bolt 100% needs a 4ft 3/4" drive breaker and the m62 crank holder tool. 😆 The Harbor Freight 3ft breaker was bending severely on the last 60°.

Hi there! What do you mean by "hot collectors"? Where do you see that?

@@mitchoniauto I think this part is called the manifold. Sorry for my poor English.

@@yasenpetrov99 no problem, I understand you. But the thing is SUBARUs have their exhaust manifolds below the engine since they are flat engines. Can you give me the exact time in the video where you see a problem? Thanks! Cheers!

It is definitely not necessary. This is and old trick used a long time ago with old conventional/vaporizer systems with carburettor engines. With this set-up the engine operates just like on the original fuel - petrol (gasoline).

I think it was a Torx T25 or T27... Something like that.

Hey mate! Sorry for this late reply. The LPG tank is 56 litres and at 80% it holds around 45-46 litres. Fuel economy is like 11-12 litres per 100 km. What is the price difference over there with you?

😉My pleasure mate. I am glad you did it and I helped you! 🥳

😉✌

I little late answer to your question but I think it might be used for that. Maybe if the car is a turbocharged one. I can actually try this on an AUDI A3 that belongs to a friend of mine. It is a 1.8 Turbo.

I think it does not do any harm either ;-)

The software will do the job via the lpg ecu

I cannot agree with that. This was true for the old style installations where the Reducer is a Vaporizer and there the pressure is very little. ;)

The main advantage of this setup is that you do not have a big body (intake manifold and tubes) full of flammable and explosive mixture. The fuel (LPG) is delivered right next to the original petrol injectors in small quantities and thus eliminates the risks of explosion. The fuel economy is also better since the idea of the fuel injection is preserved. The evaporator-mixer idea is pretty much an LPG carburetor. :)

Any problems? and at what miles was it converted?

@@peterhoughton1731 Done 200.000 kms. Didn’t have the upper cylinder head lubricant system rigged up at first. Got head issues with it later on. Replaced the heads with new gas heads, lubricant kit. Got a new timing chain, radiator,water pump, hoses, brakes, etc. Spent 6k. Good as gold now.

@@bigboy9983 I have a 2005 Honda s2000 which as only done 38k miles since new, converted to Dual fuel LPG at 19kmiles, professional job done. No problems other than a recent PO172 running rich code which also happens on petrol. I was told s2000's didn't need the upper cylinder lube system by the professional installer but I'm tempted to get one fitted now.

@@peterhoughton1731 Is that the V-Tech engine?, thought Lpg systems weren't compatible with variable valve systems.

Yes its V-TEC, runs fine. Revs to 9000rpm on gas just like it doe on petrol.@@pikachus5m166

Hi there. Sorry for late reply. Since these are relatively new (b9s I mean) I think of two options. 1 is some problem with the wiring itself and the 2 is someone hooked some aftermarket device to the same fuse (alarm system, custom audio amplifier, gps tracker etc.) and this gives problems...

😀

Yours is located there? To the right? Awesome AUDIs right?! 🙂

Ecu, injectors, toroidal tank, hose, switch, filling connector, indicators

:))) Still do not know for sure. Still driving like that. The thing is that we are pass 100k miles mark - 169k km to be exact. Everybody says it is 100k miles and one should change the chain and tensioners.

@@mitchoniauto Mine did the same thing for a long time too. Then one day after replacing all water hoses and repairing the injectors the ticking sound got louder. Turned out to be the timing chain guides. Initially the ticking sound went away when revving it, so took it for a spin and man it was performing better than before but the ticking was going after decelerating. I put a new guide tensioner too and the sound was still there. So took the entire thing apart and yep the guides were just barely started breaking. The only way I determined it was the guides is when I removed all the belts, ran the engine and the ticking was coming from the drivers side.

Hi there. It is said that certain Japanese engines from different manufacturers have such problems because of thinner valves. Generally German cars do not have this type of problems. Not 100% sure about this one in particular and not sure about the mileage on LPG but I bet it was pretty high.

Sure! No problem at all. I have converted a 3 cylinder 1000 cc Daihatsu Sirion and the guy was absolutely happy with the car and it is still driven by another person.

Yes, after I made the hardware side of the installation - LPG reducer, LPG tank, LPG injectors, tubing and so on. After all this is done and double checked I went to fill some LPG to LPG station but not the whole tank ( a put let's say 10 litres ) because I needed to check for leaks ( I never had one but this is important ). Then comes the software part of things and I must say that every LPG ECU I have worked with comes with a build-in algorithm for initial settings.

Actually the whole idea is to make the car petrol ECU 'think' that the engine is continuing operating on the original fuel ( petrol, gasoline, benzine ).