After understanding your POV It'd be cool to be able to access the subscription, but I will be purchasing it regardless

Now you can 3d print a nuclear reactor!!!

Very new to printing, why did u dehydrate the filament?

Can you give some tips on making the print stick I tried to make the benchy 4 times but they hardly left the 5th layer

Looks like 24 V at 6.5 amps or 156 watt power supply and it is used for the heat bed. To add a real camera, LED lighting and Panda Touch will require external power or replacement of the A1 MINI supply, to be safe. NOTE: The next 50 watt step up will not fit, this supply is 159X97X30mm 50 Watt > is 215X115X30. External power required for added features.

After i removed the walls and backplate i found 3 m4 nut and i cant find from where their can be placed( Anybody know?

Maybe for the file names you can make them shorter dummie

great video but please go slower it is such a hassle to follow

I think you'll have ton anchor them to the wall if you want to a void vibration related issues.

If you have a K1 SE like me and you were looking how to take off the vertical wire cover like at 47:00, it's GLUED on. I had to basically rip it off. BE CAREFUL, my filament runout cable was also glued to the cover (likely too much glue at the factory) and stripped. I had to solder it back together. And the plastic cover is irreparably bent now. It doesn't get in the way of any moving part, but it's clearly bent forward toward the bottom a couple of cm.

weird question. I have a layer shift at exactly the same location as your print has. Did you use Cura to slice? Or is it simply a property of the stl?

Link is broken for the STL files- anyone got a mirror download?

Several links in the blog post are expired or will not ship to Canada.

I found some of these models on AliExpress but the sheer volume of different variants, sellers and prices make a direct comparison nearly impossible. Eventually I'm going to lose my mind, bite the bullet and buy Mitutoyo or Starret.

It sounds to me like a high flow hardened steel nozzle ran at "normal" speed would give you most of the benefritts and the least negatives of all combinations, am I understanding you right? The high flow putts more heat in to the filament and the hardened last the longest (of the none exotic ones) so the reduced heat transfer by the steel is made up for by the high flow design that if you do not print extra fast you gett the filament fully melted any way. Have any brand made such a nozzle or am I missing something along the way?

Never pay for information. Skip this.

Can you show how to remove the Y-axis assembly from the base?

The cost in this case is justified because people work with nuclear materials wanting radiation shielding or things does that affect all likely to be spending a little bit more than that on the radioactive material?

haha, this included disassembly of everything except the bit I needed; the hot end cage

Ok.... now do the opposite, so I can put mine back together.... haha.

That’s a benchy that will immediately sink

Now I want to see how well this shields against radiation

Прикольно. 👍

looking forward for the mission in spring, hopefully featuring day/night cycles this time

Good luck! Excited to see you take this step.

Good luck with the move, would have lend a hand if living closer... 🍀

I HATE moving too

I'm glad I'm not the only one that hates moving lol😅

Now make a tin foil hat out of it

I mean I wonder how it will be when it gets a little plastic stuck in between

It's like putting racing fuel in a stock VW golf.

Keep smiling Adam

FYI I followed the links to your top rated set (Notitoyo), it looks like it's a bait & switch according to one review. > They shipped a completly different product with less accuracy (0.03mm instead of 0.02mm), different Controller (3 Buttons instead of 4) und without the foot-thing. Also sliding felt very janky. I choose this product because of a KZbin Test Video comparing different calipers and would consider this Kind of practise (shipping totally different product) a scam.

Do this test on the S1

Can you sell the dragon

IRL Fallout gear would go crazy with this

I tried printing with some old PLA recently. After it snapped and I had to strip down the Bambu AMS I had a big clear out. It wasn't worth the fiddling about for half a roll.

My little friend when he wants to play with my lego.😂

I feel your pain Adam, I'm in the middle of an office move too. I esitmated the time to compleation at around one afternoon, currently on day 3.

13€ is way too expensive for a personal use license.

How you define "commercial" vs. "personal?"

Still three times cheaper then ultem

Very cool

If its for radiation why not just use lead?

Can i buy it 😂

But how Material efficient can it be print without looksing much of its properties?

ramble ramble ramble/ Loves the sound of his own voice.

We use purchase about 500 -1,000 kg of tungsten alloy a year. It can be difficult to machine, so a very complex part could be extremely expensive to machine. The cost to machine would dwarf the cost of the underlying material. Machining could easily increase the cost per kilogram of a part by 10X. Raw tungsten is probably running about $30/kg. The important tradeoff is how this would compete with lead on a radiation shielding basis. Another question is how well the PETG would hold up over time. Most polymers degrade heavily over time when exposed to radiation. Would the part turn extremely brittle after a few months exposure and be mechanically useless.

Hi

Hi!, am I wrong or are there no fans to cool the motherboard?