@LiveNLearn1968 hello, yep...I did have to rip the top piece

@ferdbirdut hello, thanks for the comment! I am glad you like your jig and I hope it works well for you...and thanks for the purchase!

I think you should be ok with the hot temperature, as the printer needs to get hot anyways to work correctly. Cold is usually a bigger problem.

@@chaddiy3512 thanks for the reply.

I used a 20 amp line, but 15 should be just fine as well.

That is a good tip, thanks for the comment!

There is a metal sleeve that you can add first in the wall. Then the vent pipe can go through that.

I got all my pipe from menards, but I would think home depot would have what you need as well

Thanks for the tip!

Hello, I am pretty sure you can

Hello, if you check out this link around the 12 minute point. I show how to do what you are talking about I believe. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z2ikqal_iM-MlZo

Hello, thanks for the purchase...I am glad you like your jig! The reason I use screws instead of nubs is mainly do to the 3d printing process. One side has to be flat to print on, so it would be hard to design the nubs sticking down. You should be able to use the thumb screws that came with your F1 ultra L clamp. Those are really easy to take on and off, and are harder to lose...Thanks again for comment and purchase. I really appreciate it!

@@chaddiy3512 makes sense. Have a good night.

Hello, Sorry...I do not offer that jig. You could search for it on Etsy, that would probably be your best bet. good luck on your search!

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!

Hello, I think the best way is probably just using a ruler or tape measure and measure from the frame of the machine to the work piece. And do that on each end of the work piece. Good luck!

Well thanks for the kind words sir!

Hello, I'm sorry...but I'm not sure if there is way to do this with the xtool software. I thought lightburn software might have this option, but maybe someone else could chime in to confirm that.

Appreciate your response. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

Hi. I use the the stepper function to move my head away and back. This can be found on the process screen where you can choose to Frame the project. Top left of the screen, four arrows = Up, Down, Right and Left. Step the head away, counting the number of times you click on each direction and then stepping back using the same number of clicks. Hope this helps.

@@ianmacgowan4335 Wow, that is such a GREAT IDEA. Thanks so much for adding it here. I can’t wait to try it. This could save me a lot of headaches. Really appreciate you adding that info here. 👍

@@ianmacgowan4335 Let me ask another question please. When I add text and select the text, it adds the handles around the text. If I pull on the handles in the corners, it stretches it out keeping the dimensions but just increasing them. If I pull on one of the handles in the middle, not the corners, it does the same thing instead of actually stretching the text. I’m trying to use the full dimensions of a piece of wood, let’s say 10" long but only 4" high. I’ve tried entering the actual numbers on the screen but the software changes them so the dimensions are in sync. When that didn’t work I tried stretching it out with the handles around the text and that didn’t work. For example, if I wanted the word "STOP" on a long board but only 4, 5" inches high I can’t get that to work. It will take 10" long but then changes the height to something like 8", to keep the dimensions, which then falls off the printing surface of the board. Thanks.

Hello, you will want to order the air assist with this as well. It is the small tube shaped thing that I use in the video. Then there is no need for a full size air compressor.

Hello, yep... the basic enders do not have auto leveling and I really don't know anything about the V3 KE. If I were you I would check out the Bambu Lab printers. I have switched to them and they really work well.

I have had this printer for a few years. A good basic first printer. The Ender 3 V3 KE is a much newer printer that prints quite a bit faster. This printer will be a good choice if you are patient and want large prints.

Hello, I'm not sure what 105 drop siding is. I just have house wrap on the outside and did fiberglass batts on the inside between the studs for insulation

Ok, I hope this helps you out with your char issue!

Yeah, that is probably good advice. Getting a printer with auto leveling really isn't that much more money and makes starting off so much easier.

Hello, I think I did this myself for around $3000.

Hello, there is no j channel with this LP Smartside siding.

Hello, I haven't noticed any major shaking with my riser base attatched. I have a video on my channel with me doing tumblers on the S1 if you want to check out my setup. Good luck with your S1!

Hello, in my experience, there is still a smell when cutting wood or acrylic...even with a closed machine. It is a lot better than the opened machines, but it is something to be aware of. I have my laser cutters in my garage, so it really isn't a big deal for me with the smell.

Hello, I'm not sure what you mean by accessory kit, but to do tumblers, you will need the riser base and rotary for the S1.

@@chaddiy3512 there is an $80 accessory kit for the rotary tool. It looks like it helps the tumblers and items you’re engraving pivot.

Hello, yep...the software has changed now. I think it is a little more confusing starting off, but it has a lot more features, which is nice!

Gotcha. Thanks for the quick reply!

Glad you liked it!

Good luck, and enjoy the machine. Once you get the software figured out, it is a lot of fun!

@@chaddiy3512 Thank you