Why didn’t you just repair it?

Snap -On makes a two different sizes pair of parallel needle nose.

Nice assortment of planes. The Stanley 140 is really cool, that would be my favorite as well!

Near pliers!

I have a pair of the "Grip and Snip" pliers that I keep in my fishing tackle box. I actually used them once to cut a hook out of my father in laws hand. They are PERFECT for your tackle box if you fish. Nice find.👍

2:52 those are copies of Bernard patent parallel pliers with wire cutters. You can go ahead and call them “Bernards” even though they are made by Sargent. The cutter is amazing. Once you try it you will likely be taken aback at how well they work for that task

1:30 that’ll clean up real nice

Welcome back! - 🥔

Needle nose pliers

Looks like steel knob and tote screws also, I'd say WWII type 17 maybe earlier production got the nicer rosewood...

Hi from the UK. The 5½ is my 'go to' plane, of which I have four; two Stanley, one Record & a Verum (a Luban but built to a high standard). The Record is kinda retired but the two Stanleys are in regular use, though both irons have been replaced with thicker Ray Iles 0.125" ones, with throats opened up accordingly & longer chip breaker screws. I splashed out on Rob Cosman Adjustars for the three |i use i believe me, they're worth the $ (I'm over in the US a couple of times a year, so have stuff delivered to a friend in GA - saves on postage, customs duty, import taxes...). For some reason, the Stanley 5½ often sells on eBay over here for less than $40 equivalent, which to me is an absolute bargain.

I love push drills. My favorite is the Millers Falls with a similar cap - 185A. It has holes drilled & labeled around the top that go into the vertical holder for that size. You put your nail into the holes to gets its size. Then you get the next smaller bit to drill the pilot hole. That cap is way better than the Yankee 41's storage. The last Millers Falls also switched to using the Yankee bit socket instead of the 4 ridge one in the one you have.

Those come in very handy

Nice clean-ups and they look great!

Nifty treasure finds!

Nice. I'll have to check out tool trader.

Nice hollow auger! You’ll want a cone cutter to prepare the square stock before using the … oh here we go!

I wouldn't get under a car That's held up by that cast iron jack.

Craftsman push drill was made by Millers Falls.

New woodworking tool that I have not seen before I saw this video! Cool, neat, nifty!

That was good if the wife to let you use her toothbrush 😊

4:20 all those bits are straight fluted; I once found a drill with two twist bits, but the kind that will lock into the “collet” on these things. I was stoked when I found those, and likewise had to buy the drill to get the bits

1:10 Hardwood gimlet! Nifty! No need for ratcheting in softwoods; the beefy shank means more torque can be applied, but with more torque you will need to use two hands but if you don’t have ratcheting, that becomes cumbersome. What a find! Jealous!

It's always nice to rattle any push drills, screwdrivers or the old wooden multi bit tools. Today I picked up one of those old wooden ones full of tips among other things. It was a good day. George

1:25 That hatchet is cooooool I regretted one this summer......some scout somewhere has it now.

Aliens

The Pfeil chisels are flat sided ro avoid rolling off the bench. They're still in business. I have quite a few of their chisels and gouges.

The one marked Swiss Made is a Pfeil, a very popular, high quality brand. Nice finds this week!

the "11" on the gouge likely signifies the "sweep" (amount of curvature) of the gouge - 1 is flat (a chisel, in other words), and 12 is steepest. 11 is a very common and useful size, often referred to as a "veiner".

Nice. Thanks for sharing.

Good work 🥰👍

The jack is for a model T . Great finds. Congrats

I have a pair of slip joint pliers similar to channelocks that were power craft. believe Montgomery ward stores sold power craft brand tools had them since early 70s

What differentiates a coal shovel from a grain shovel?

The copper funnel is for olive oil

a 5 fork pitch fork works great for wood chips and mulch.

Model T jack. We had one on the farm in Cleveland Ohio.

1) Using a knife to establish the cut line and then using a chisel from the waste side to create a saw trench (aka a 1st Class saw cut) will make it easier to start and stay on the line for cross cutting; 2) the accurately cut-off wedge can then be used to shim the fence angle on your shooting board.

Neat haul!

Funnel is awesome. Dunno anything about it....

1:31 best way to clean up that rasp would be a spritz with 91% isopropyl followed by mild steel wire brush. As the isopropyl flashes off (which can take between 23 and 30 seconds) you need to be actively brushing, and it will kick off rust that wasn’t previously coming off with just physical effort alone. Using alcohol is a triple benefit. It acts as a debriding agent as well, plus it drives moisture out. I really don’t like using Evaporust on files unless I have to. Sometimes I have to use weeders and/or dental picks. It can take me days to restore a file/rasp but absolutely worth it. Once clean, they stay clean with minimal effort using a file card. I have used white vinegar when a file was really bad and would do that again before Evaporust. Basically you might have to wire brush anyway, regardless of whether you use vinegar or Evaporust, and sometimes you only have to wire brush, so might as well as always just get it as clean as possible with brush, alcohol, and picks. Vinegar is nice because it will attack other things beside rust, such as farrier debris. Good luck!

2:57 sweet! Now you can convert your 2-jaw brace chuck to a 3-jaw chuck. Of course, I would be remiss if I didn’t tease you with the fact that Sears made a hand brace with a 4-jaw chuck. Maybe some other manufacturers did as well, so keep an eye out for some hand braces that have not a 2-jaw but a 4-jaw chuck.

Yay! You got a nibbed saw! The distance from the tip of the saw to the nib is the max thickness of wood you should saw. Now, what I am going to say next is passed down to me from Grandpa. When starting the cut, you need to position your body the correct distance from the board so it is impossible to pull the saw out of the board. If that happens you could kink the plate and ruin the saw. A bend can be repaired but a kink will send the saw to the trash. So before you start your first stroke, use the nib while stationary to position your body. Put the saw on the board with the nib on your side of the board, now step up to the board so your shoulder is drawn as far back as it will go. This ensures that you can now proceed to saw without any fear the plate will become trapped between the board and you if it comes out of the kerf, since you positioned your body such that you physically cannot pull the saw out of the board. The nib helped you position your feet at the correct distance from the board to compress your arm and raise your shoulder the correct distance. All that need be done now is to push the saw forward as far as your arm will travel or as far as the saw will go, pull back as far as you can, and repeat. Now if this blindfolded motion done slowly in a practice motion is observed to position the saw plate outside the cut, you should consider using a larger saw because different people have different length arms. The premise here is that the nib also helps to fit the saw to the correct user and vise-versa before any sawing ever occurs. It is a misnomer that the nib helps you start the cut by acting as a tooth. It helps start the cut by positioning the sawyer, not by engaging the wood. Last but not least, since the sawyer will have squared away his stance with the aid of the nib within the first few seconds preceding the initial stroke, having eliminated any requirement to focus on arm stroke length, he/she is then free to focus solely on tracking the line and maintaining angle. If the saw plate is shiny enough, the reflection of the cutting surface in the saw plate can be used to determine angle.

Grommets. Still available. about 1/4 id.

I like your style. I am watching and learning while packing my son’s room.

53 and 4 are the year and month of manufacture. Plierenches were dated month and year from around 1932/33 with the production changed for the second patent through 1969. The 1921 and 1922 versions were also dated. Plierenches manufactured between 1923 and 1932 were not dated. Contract specialty versions were also rarely dated.

Knipex are incredibly expensive, 😶

Neato! Do they have multiple grips and shapes that are interchangeable in the one tool?

Nice way for starter holes without the ordeal of an electric drill.

Does anyone know what’s going on at Blackburn?? I ordered a Dovetail saw kit and a bunch of other stuff in early June. It’s been about 100 days and nothing.