The interstitial space between a shank and a receiver of any threaded connection is quite small. It takes very little lubricant to produce an even coat between the threads. Applying more lubricant will not change the friction equation -- the lubricant will simply be squeezed out. But, overlubricating the threads is a bad thing, since contaminating either end of a spark plug with anti-seize is likely to cause misfires. Instead of relying on the the 30% rule of thumb, one can tighten the plugs using a specified number of turns. Various spark-plug manufactures provide these specs for their products.

@@Zerk_Ziegler ​ @Zerk_Ziegler Thanks for the video and answering my question Zerk!

Thanks for watching -- I appreciate the feedback!

I am glad it was helpful.

Interesting info regarding washer thickness. Do you recall the source?

@@Zerk_Ziegler kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJfGoaWrqcSkY80si=YT9A9um23wPHJjps after 2:16 minute . Unfortunately is on Russian language. I will translate with pleasure some moments for you if you point me by the video timing!

@@Zerk_Ziegler posted the video , but KZbin deleted the link . If you didn’t received the notification with the link lets me know !

Oil flows all the way around the filter, not just along the bottom. Additional magnets trap more metal particles. If not convinced, cut the filter apart and see for yourself. Without adhesive, the magnets have a tendency to migrate due to vibration.

@@Zerk_Ziegler I'm a Toyota MDT, I know how filters work. You are killing the magnetic attraction by using the tape....

@@bluesky-ud9wg The tape is not inherently a magnetic shield since it contains no metal. It IS true, however, that the magnetic field is a little weaker due to the fact that the magnets are spaced away from the metal shell of the filter by the thickness of the adhesive tape. However, this small loss in magnetism is more than offset by using several magnets, as opposed to just one. Also, the tape provides at least some thermal insulation for the magnets, which helps them maintain their strength longer.

I have no experience with that particular model year, but if the threads on the tank are 20mm x 1mm, I don't see why not.

@@Zerk_Ziegler i do believe the 20mm1mm is the size for my cb700sc

If that's the case, you should be good to go, provided that there is sufficient clearance with the valve cover. On the 750, it's pretty tight.

The rack was made by BESTEM (an Australian company, I believe). No longer in production. What specific information are you looking for?

Thank you for watching -- I appreciate the feedback!

I think in this case Being is just a matter of Time :) These parts will pop up eventually ...

Not a good idea to stretch the springs, in my opinion -- see my response to a comment from @joshlucas5907, below. I don't know if these springs are still available from Honda. Babbitt's Honda Parts online is a good resource. Otherwise, I would try my luck on eBay, Facebook marketplace, Craigslist, etc. 1 month ago

@@Zerk_Ziegler Hi - Thanks for your reply and suggestions - Agreed - I would not stretch the two remaining, and will look at Babbits and the other suggestions -

Hi Randy -- this compressor came with the rubber hose originally. I would try McMaster-Carr's on-line catalog to see if fittings that fit the bill (no pun intended) are available. Obviously, the hose to be used needs to have an appropriate pressure rating.

@@Zerk_Ziegler Thanks for the suggestion Sir. Wish mine did too, the vibration of the compressor running does the aluminum tubing in.

@@randy4249 Yes, the aluminum tube cracking seems to be a common problem with these :(

Agreed on popsicle sticks, ice cubes, and spreaders. Good-old finger gives one much more control.

I appreciate the comment. Water DOES work. However, it does not "wet-out" on a surface nearly as well as mineral spirits do. That said, chemicals, like mineral spirits, will never offer the same health benefits as good old H2O does :) If concerned with exposure, water is definitely safer. But, mineral spirits work way better. I will try to make a short vid to demonstrate.

You are very welcome. Please see video description for additional details.

Thanks for watching -- I appreciate the feedback.

@@Zerk_Ziegler You're welcome

Yes, acetone, isopropyl alcohol, and carb cleaner can all be used to clean metal before welding. Chlorinated cleaners -- NOOO!

@@Zerk_Ziegler yeah I dont like the idea of running an arc through any compound with chlorine in it, just bad news all around One downside to alcohols & heptanes compared to chlorinated solvents is their profound flammability, too many sparks flying from someone working in the bay beside you can set your buddies brake clean sprayer on fire.

OEM bearing: XBL 608Z NSK bearing: 608ZZCM NS7S 905

When the VOES fails, it does so in the open position, which means that ignition timing will always be retarded. But the bike will still run. However, throttle response will suffer somewhat.

Before you do, you may want to check the price of replacement ones ...

@@Zerk_Ziegler I have two extra racks from two different identical parts bikes. I'm just ripping my hair out with this ram air system and you seem smart. I'm just going to have to get the wideband 02 on it and read my AFR inevitably.

@@crazyDIYguy Using a wideband O2 sensor to read AFR is always a good idea. It does help to approach jetting in a methodical manner -- see, e.g., www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html. You can also use an acceleration meter, like one from SPLLab, to fine-tune the results.

Thank you for the kind words. If you like this video series, you might enjoy the "Shoe Goo'" vids, if you haven't watched them already. By the way, the compressor is still working like new!

@@Zerk_Ziegler Good to hear! And yes I’ve also enjoyed watched the Shoe Goo videos 😁🙏

Glad to hear. I have saved thousands of $ (no kidding) over the years using Shoe Goo to repair everything from sneakers to car covers.

Glad if this was helpful.

7:18 of the video -- 27mm socket

👍

The worst "mod" of all is when folks try to stretch the spring. At least when the spring is cut, it becomes proportionally stiffer. Stretching the spring takes all predictability out of the equation. A plastically deformed spring is a broken spring.

@@Zerk_Ziegler ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,spoken like a design engineer.....................................thankz...................

Thank you for watching.

Excellent point. I had some on hand (little plastic tubes with a flange at one end), but the OD was wrong. I also thought about using grommets, but they interfered with the rubber shims in the corresponding holes, and I think the cable ties would just dislodge them in others, so hard plastic inserts would definitely be better. In the end, I chose the simplest approach -- the aluminum edges are very easy to file/sand/deburr. The holes in the steel panel are not much harder to dress to make the edges smooth.

@@Zerk_Ziegler Thanks!

Thanks! The locknut has right-hand thread. If you watch the later videos, you will see that Honda has superseded the notched locknut by a regular hex.

​@@Zerk_Ziegler Imagine my stress when the replacement that arrived was nothing like what I heard it should be like.

@@klamup Are you talking about the locknut?

It's hard to say without seeing the shoe. Shoe Goo is a durable product, but how well it sticks to the underlying material depends on surface prep and the type of material being repaired. Delamination does take place sometimes. I don't know what kind of climbing you do, but a climber's life may depend on the soundness of his equipment. Please consider what would happen if the repair were to fail mid-climb. When fixing a tennis shoe, you don't have much to lose if a repair fails. With climbing equipment, the stakes are much higher. If you are just practicing in a controlled environment, then sure, give Shoe Goo a try. Otherwise, please use your best judgement. Also, you may want to watch Parts 1 and 2 of the video series, if you haven't already.

@@Zerk_Ziegler thanks for your concern. It's a controlled environment. However, I considered Aquaseal SR glue. Bouldering shoes are expensive to fix; just for a tiny hole on the tip will cost 70 bucks to repair. Maybe consider making a video about it.

@@gepardiari8710 Shoe Goo works well for repairing holes. If it's a through hole, just place some masking tape on the inside surface, if possible -- then remove. It might take several applications until the hole is filled flush.

@@Zerk_Ziegler I'll follow your instruction. Thank you very much!

Any time. Please leave a comment once you perform the repair to let folks know if it worked for you.

Did you check if the rubber diaphragm has a tear in it?

@@Zerk_Ziegler yes I checked /removed and cleaned everything ,plus sonic cleaned twice to make sure. but is it supposed to "bounce"?

it is a 2005 baja wilderness 250, so it's old I might just be asking too much,lol

@@southern_merican Are you saying the vacuum piston is bouncing when the engine is running at constant throttle? Is the engine running OK or no? Have you checked compression?

@@Zerk_Ziegler yes "piston" with needle in the MIDDLE of the 5 clip positions. it's all the way down when idling and when I go full throttle for sec, it comes up to halfway and bounces,never opening up all the way. the butterfly does open fully tho. main jet is 96 and tube directly under it is a 85. is that a problem? it's how I got it. also compression is 130psi.. yes engine runs ok. but starts losing power after 3rd gear

The liquid in the jar is odorless mineral spirits. The brand of the adhesive in the tube is Shoe Goo. Obviously, you should use clear, rather than black, for your application.

There are situations where such mods can be beneficial, but if the bike is essentially stock, and good throttle response and fuel economy are the primary targets, it's best to leave the vacuum piston and spring alone.

I reused all the top-end parts. The big-end bearing is easy to source. The part number in one of the video descriptions.

Hi, any idea where I might be able to get the piston ring? I have one where the ring is cracked, but everything else is fine.

@adamsjohn1956 The softer silicone-rubber ring is a solid O-ring. However, the other ring is a split ring -- in other words, it comes with a split or "crack" in it already (see part 4 of the series). Are you saying that one of the rings is damaged?

@@Zerk_Ziegler , yes, the piston ring is starting to deteriorate, the edges of it have material flaking off.

@adamsjohn1956 You may be able to source a replacement split-ring from McMaster-Carr. Search "High-Speed Wear Rings" in their on-line catalog. They may also have an O-ring that will work.

Sounds like there is an intake leak. I have a couple of videos on the subject you might find helpful.

Personally, I've had very little trouble with carbs. Motorcycle carburetors are stone simple (compared to those on cars) and pretty darn reliable. Because of gasoline formulations these days, it does help to use marine-grade fuel stabilizer at every fill up. When upgrading or rebuilding, it's best to stay away from aftermarket kits and parts -- I use factory components whenever possible (especially float-valve needles). A good-quality fuel filter is always a good idea. FI is nice, but has its own issues: fuel pumps go bad, injectors clog, and fuel fitting leak.

@@Zerk_ZieglerI cleaned and rebuilt an 1985 CMX250 carb I've been having problems with for 20 years now... on and off the bike, on and off, on and off, on and off. Tab breaking off float, float height wrong, idle jet getting clogged, you name it, who knows. Waiting on an air valve from aliexpress that was impossible to find, my last guess as to why it's idling fine on choke now, but bogging down when I turn the throttle, until I get pass the stumbling point and then it runs fine. With choke full on. Which I guess, yeah, is still not fine. You know, I thought I could get around all of this by buying a whole new carb off of ebay, which is exactly what I did. They sent me a dual carb, and I have a single carb. Apparently on the same model bike at some point, they switched from single to dual, and most of them are dual, but I got the super rare parts for it are unobanium single carb version made in the first model year 😞 The week before this, it was a vacuum operated fuel petcock valve that had a recall on it on my Honda Shadow I narrowed down and traced all the way backwards to the safety recall sheet from 15 years ago...

www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Spark-Plug-F6RTC-751-10292/1002792352?user=shopping&feed=yes

As mentioned in the earlier comments, Dupont, Loctite, and Champion offer graphite-based anti-seize products (no metal), specifically advertised for use on spark-plug threads. I've seen ceramic-based products that were recommended for use on brake components. From what I recall, these compounds have an extremely high heat rating. I don't see any issue with using a small amount of ceramic-based anti-seize on spark--plug threads.

@@Zerk_Ziegler But then you wouldn't have the sacrificial benefit of metals and / or the thermal transfer benefit since especially ceramic would just be hoping to act as just a physical barrier once the grease burns off, correct? Or is graphite / ceramic a good heat transfer material to have?

@@nesmio7378 Agreed as far as the sacrificial-anode benefit is concerned, if you have a zinc-based compound. Check out the video description for values of heat and electrical conductivity for various materials. Honestly, I don't know if presence or absence of a lubricant makes a difference in terms of heat and current transfer. The situation with spark plugs and anti-seize is similar to that of electrical connectors and dielectric grease. Even though dielectric grease is an insulator, it generally does not interfere with the transfer of current through electrical connectors because most electrical connectors are "self-wiping". Dielectric grease is there to prevent current leakage outside of the connector junction, but does not hinder current transfer through the connector. Threads of a spark plug (or any fastener) are self-wiping as well. Also, quite a bit of heat and electrical-energy transfer occurs through the seat of the plug.

I provided the part numbers in the video description of Part 4. Hope that helps.

Not sure about the benefits of graphite-based anti-seize over metal-based products. Check out the video description for some numbers for perspective. Also, a good portion of thermal and electrical conduction occurs through the seat of the plug.

If the cap is made of aluminum, and the threads of the valve stem are brass, the aluminum cap will corrode. The white powder you see is oxidized aluminum.