O ring yg besi ny jika hilang penganinya bisa pakai ap ya lur
@Zerk_ZieglerКүн бұрын
The mixture-screw spring seats against the metal washer, which then evenly compresses the rubber o-ring. If the metal washer is missing, it must be replaced with another of the same dimensions -- otherwise the spring will damage the o-ring. Often, metal washers are available individually (factory) or in packs (aftermarket). In other cases, it is easier to buy the entire assembly (mixture screw, o-ring, and metal washer).
@spacesuitor4 күн бұрын
Lots of carbonation in this one.
@cclovelacegrace13 күн бұрын
Can you repair a gouge in the midsole of running shoes with this? They are black. But I would want it to not look visible so I may need to sand and paint I guess
@Zerk_Ziegler13 күн бұрын
Possibly. The repair should stick well, but Shoe Goo is a bit harder than the material of the midsole, whose primary function is cushioning, so the functionality of the midsole may be compromised somewhat if the gouge is extensive. Also, because the midsole is exposed to sunlight, the repair will further harden due to UV radiation it receives. If you are concerned with the fact that the midsole is matte black and the repair is gloss black (when you use black Shoe Goo), you can simply abrade the repair (sand it, as you mentioned, or just use a small steel brush for knocking down the gloss) to produce a matte appearance. I have never tried to paint over Shoe Goo, so I cannot comment on how well paint will adhere.
@gunnydusmcful14 күн бұрын
Good video. I would add that when manifold screws are tightened, they should be secured incrementally. This ensures proper and even gasket seal.
@Zerk_Ziegler14 күн бұрын
Excellent point. Also, after tightening the screws initially, it's a good idea to let the manifold sit overnight and then check if the screws have lost some preload due to the gasket taking a compression set. In that case, they should be tightened a bit more to ensure a good seal.
@dirtygarageguy19 күн бұрын
Show me plugs that aren't plated.
@Zerk_Ziegler19 күн бұрын
Interesting point. Plugs having a black oxide finish are technically not considered plated. ACDelco 41-606 is an example. However, it is true that black oxide does resist corrosion.
@panosvougiou19 күн бұрын
Nice video. I have two questions. How does deleting the airbox affect the speed of the slide, or the point that it start to lift? Second question is, how would you deal with a massive low end WOT richness, if float height cannot really affect this? I have deleted my airbox, then compensated with bigger mains but I get this massive rich area while WOT? My understanding is that a thicker diameter needle would fix it, but there are no needles available. Also, on this carb you cannot change the needle jet. Thank you.
@Zerk_Ziegler19 күн бұрын
I would need a bit more info here ... At the outset, what motorcycle are we talking about (low-RPM or high-RPM motor)? When you say "massive low-end WOT richness", what RPM range does this correspond to? On your bike, is it possible to adjust float height to change fuel level, or is float height non-adjustable (like on many Hondas)? Are you sure you have the correct main jet(s) for high-RPM WOT (i.e., it produces highest top speed and makes the bike accelerate hardest at high RPM)?
@panosvougiou19 күн бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler Hi, thanks for the response. I have deleted my airbox and I am using a large ITG foam dome filter. I am using a WB sensor to tune the carbs. Float height is adjustable, and it's set 1.5mm higher than the stock height. As I said, the rich spot/area is at the low wide open throttle rpm (3k to 5k), AFR shows less than 10 which is excessively rich, and it feels rich too. There's no way for me now to fix this with jets. I am assuming that a different needle could work (thicker root diameter), but there are no needles available. Also, on these carbs, there's no emulsion tube or needle jet to replace (there's just a jet holder and that's it).
@Zerk_Ziegler19 күн бұрын
@@panosvougiou You didn't say what kind of bike you have. I assume it's a multi? What is the redline on the bike? Also, how many sizes did you go up on the mains? Is the bike running well at high-RPM WOT?
@panosvougiou19 күн бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler the bike is a 950 KTM with 43mm keihin downdrafts. The mains are right, the bike is very strong and the top speed is higher than stock. It's up 15-20 in main right now.
@Zerk_Ziegler19 күн бұрын
@@panosvougiou OK, so assume redline is around 9000 RPM? If the mains are correct for high-RPM WOT, they should be left alone. However, if there is a possibility that the mains are a tad too rich at high RPM, going down a size should help the lower-RPM WOT issue. If there is nothing to be done about the mains, you could try raising the float height (lowering the fuel level) a little more, but you are already 1.5 mm higher than stock, so you don't have much room to make further changes. The only other thing that comes to mind is that perhaps your needles are worn? Did you check for areas of wear on the needles?
@snivesz3221 күн бұрын
Thank you for this masterclass on this topic. I will be linking people to this video when they spread misinformation in comments on other videos.
@Zerk_Ziegler21 күн бұрын
I appreciate the feedback! I am glad you found the information in the video and the comments useful.
@techtinkerin26 күн бұрын
Probably not a bad thing it was stuck or id have lost it 😊
@Zerk_Ziegler26 күн бұрын
Those little sh*ts are easy to lose, no matter how you slice it. Make sure you have both the rubber o-ring and the metal washer.
@thomschaid487427 күн бұрын
Excellent video. I was just about to repair my boots for the first time and your instructions are very helpful.
@Zerk_Ziegler27 күн бұрын
Don't forget to clean and dry the areas where Shoe Goo is to be applied. I usually use Simple Green, scrub with a stiff brush, rinse with water, and allow to air-dry.
@lawrenceveinotteАй бұрын
Tetrachloroethylene is found in electrical contact cleaner, tapping fluid, penetrating fluid and dry cleaning liquid, etc etc, I don't need to read the label to know it's in a product, I can smell that stuff a mile away, it's also known to cause spontaneous abortion.
@Zerk_ZieglerАй бұрын
Please see my reply to @rajsingh0621, below. The goal behind pulling the fuse was to prevent fuel from being injected into the combustion chamber. But, this can also be accomplished simply by using the kill switch, which did not occur to me at the time, as I am used to carbureted bikes, where the kill switch only controls the spark. I made another short video (part 2) to clarify: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5LYg5eojcl8e80
@thomasstaplesАй бұрын
Where did you get the crash/engine guards?
@Zerk_ZieglerАй бұрын
Tinworks Inc.
@thomasstaplesАй бұрын
Where did you get your crash protection?
@Zerk_ZieglerАй бұрын
Tinworks Inc.
@molecularman8995Ай бұрын
Можно найти золотую середину в этих настройках. Тогда получится очень хороший карбюратор. Но это сложный путь, нужно переделать не только отверстие и пружину, но и скорее всего как минимум иглу главной дозирующей системы. А высший пилотаж это модернизация смесительной камеры и эмульсионной трубки под новые настройки.
@rajsingh0621Ай бұрын
But can't you just keep the engine cut off switch in the off position? Because that will also keep the spark plug from not firing and then cranking the engine won't cause it to start?
@Zerk_ZieglerАй бұрын
Good question. In addition to the spark plugs not firing, I want to prevent fuel from being injected into the cylinders while cranking the engine, and that's why I disable the EFI by pulling the fuse. I don't know whether the engine cut-off (kill) switch controls spark only or both spark AND fuel delivery. Accordingly, I remove the EFI fuse to be sure. It would be worthwhile to review the electrical schematic to see how the engine cut-off switch is wired into the system. If it controls only the spark, it is best to pull the EFI fuse AND turn the cut-off switch to the OFF position while turning the engine over.
@Zerk_ZieglerАй бұрын
Finally got around to digging deeper into your question. When the ignition switch is turned ON with the kill switch in the OFF position, the fuel pump does not turn on. After the kill switch is then flipped to the ON position, the fuel pump pressurizes. This means that the kill switch does disable the fuel injection. So yes, you are correct -- all that is required to prime the engine after an oil change is to use the kill switch -- pulling fuses should not be necessary. I am used to carbureted motorcycles, where the kill switch controls only the spark, and fuel-injected cars, which have no kill switches, so I automatically went for the more involved "sure-fire" approach. But, less can sometimes be more. Thanks for the question!
@the_bjdАй бұрын
Zerk, this is great. Short , to the point and very useful. Wishing you much success
@Zerk_ZieglerАй бұрын
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback.
@heathermcever79702 ай бұрын
Thank you so much simple easy demonstration and straightforward to the point!
@Zerk_Ziegler2 ай бұрын
Thank you for the feedback!
@theoneracer27162 ай бұрын
How many voes vacuum levels are there used on evo harleys
@Zerk_Ziegler2 ай бұрын
I am aware of three (check video description for more details).
@fun4oli2 ай бұрын
Hi, I also asked Bestem and they also said that they don't make luggage components for this bike anymore. I am looking for top and side cases (and racks) for my 1993 Nighthawk. Have you ever heard of any other solution?
@Zerk_Ziegler2 ай бұрын
I would start by searching Amazon/eBay/etc. Many of the side/top cases you will find have "universal" attachment plates that offer various mounting options that will hopefully work with your set-up.
@DC_DC_DC_DC2 ай бұрын
What is in your particular contact cleaner? Im in Europe. Is it just degreasing or does it also deposit something?
@Zerk_Ziegler2 ай бұрын
QD Electronic Cleaner from CRC. It is simply degreasing -- evaporates almost immediately and leaves no residue. Acetone should work just as well.
@JohnsonLobster3 ай бұрын
I broke two sets of spark plugs after applying copper grease to the threads and torquing them down to NGK's specifications. I learned my lesson. The third set I installed without grease and using the turning angle as a guide.
@weisserfad3 ай бұрын
did you need to remove or change anything on the bike to install 19’ front wheel?
@Zerk_Ziegler3 ай бұрын
This is a 2016 XG750 with no ABS, so a 2008-2012 Sporty 19" wheel bolts up with no modification (just use the existing spacers). However, I had to make fender brackets to run a Sportster fender.
@weisserfad3 ай бұрын
got it. thanks! love the looks on yours! i wanna 72-ify the 750 😂
@Zerk_Ziegler3 ай бұрын
@@weisserfad You won't regret it. The bike will handle much better with a 19" front. A tank lift is needed to get the "chopper look", though. You lose a bit of fuel capacity, but it will create additional room to improve the routing of the electrical wiring.
@weisserfad3 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler thanks for all the info, plus i was always worried "if the 2 rims were not the same, would it look funny?" definitely looks special on yours!
@Zerk_Ziegler3 ай бұрын
@weisserfad A black front rim matches the rear pretty well. Also, if you look closely, you can see that I attached a silver 1/8" rim stripe to the front wheel to match the stripe on the rear mag.
@DirkWrightxyz3 ай бұрын
Excellent analysis! thanks!
@lekkendedakgoot35733 ай бұрын
Thanks very much! Struggling with my sportster at the moment, and your video comes in handy
@Zerk_Ziegler3 ай бұрын
Glad the vid is useful. As I mentioned in the description, EZ Turn lubricant on all the gaskets promotes a good seal. I also use this lubricant on the intake-manifold screw threads to avoid galvanic corrosion (steel screws going to aluminum) and to prevent the screws from backing out. This lubricant is essentially a combination of grease and glue. I use it wherever gasoline or oil are present. Expensive stuff, but worth it. Alternatively, lithium grease can be used on the gasket surfaces, but I don't think it seals as well as EZ Turn does.
@bruhmoment8023 ай бұрын
Man i just had the exact same issue in my 3T Corona and there's absolutely no info on the internet about the vacuum system for this engine Thanks a lot
@Zerk_Ziegler3 ай бұрын
Not many of these cars on the road today. Glad the info was helpful to someone.
@shanefrank32813 ай бұрын
Great video. I have heard some say that copper based anti-seize is the best for preventing galvanic corrosion (even some manufacturers say this) and others say that it actually can make it worse if used with certain metal combinations. However when you look up the ingredients of the basic silver colored anti-seize maid by permatex, it has aluminum, copper and graphite. So it is combining two materials (aluminum and copper) that should be a problem and graphite is about as far away from zinc and aluminum as you can get. I don't understand how this isn't an issues? I always assumed zinc or nickel was in that anti-seize. Can anyone explain why in the chart shown at 8:33 that it shows stainless (in the vertical column on the left) is safe to pair with aluminum (on the horizontal row at the top), but if you do the flip of that (aluminum in the left column with stainless in the top row), it shows as a galvanic corrosion risk?
@88keymaster603 ай бұрын
Legend
@Zerk_Ziegler3 ай бұрын
Lol
@richieshrug4 ай бұрын
How would one know or be sure its "30%" less specified torque? Isn't this number dependant on the amount of anti seize a person uses on the plug?
@Zerk_Ziegler4 ай бұрын
The interstitial space between the shank and the receiver of any threaded connection is quite small. It takes very little lubricant to produce an even coat between the threads. Applying more lubricant will not change the friction equation -- the lubricant will simply be squeezed out. But, overlubricating the threads is a bad thing, since contaminating either end of a spark plug with anti-seize is likely to cause misfires. Instead of relying on the the 30% rule of thumb, one can tighten the plugs using a specified number of turns. Various spark-plug manufactures provide these specs for their products.
@richieshrug4 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler @Zerk_Ziegler Thanks for the video and answering my question Zerk!
@chewyexc4 ай бұрын
very good information. thank you..
@Zerk_Ziegler4 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching -- I appreciate the feedback!
@peterv18064 ай бұрын
Outstanding video! Thank you!
@Zerk_Ziegler4 ай бұрын
I am glad it was helpful.
@flappingflight85375 ай бұрын
One interesting ,unusual but IMO very objective way of controlling the proper tightening of spark plugs is by measuring the thickness of the sealing washer . It’s found experimentally that for Denso plugs it must be 1.6mm after proper tightening . Also this method allow you to see if the spark plug has been tightened properly previous time . Also you can torque down your spark plugs dry as the manufacturers recommends . After that remove them ,apply anti seize and tight them back by turning on recommended by the manufacturer angle but for spark plugs which already been tighten at least once .It’s usually stated on the box . IMO anti seize make more difficult to read the proper heat range of the spark plugs which has been in use.
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
Interesting info regarding washer thickness. Do you recall the source?
@flappingflight85375 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJfGoaWrqcSkY80si=YT9A9um23wPHJjps after 2:16 minute . Unfortunately is on Russian language. I will translate with pleasure some moments for you if you point me by the video timing!
@flappingflight85375 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler posted the video , but KZbin deleted the link . If you didn’t received the notification with the link lets me know !
@peterv18065 ай бұрын
Well done! Thank you.
@bluesky-ud9wg5 ай бұрын
Uh, no. Just put one on the bottom of the filter without any adhesive ..
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
Oil flows all the way around the filter, not just along the bottom. Additional magnets trap more metal particles. If not convinced, cut the filter apart and see for yourself. Without adhesive, the magnets have a tendency to migrate due to vibration.
@bluesky-ud9wg5 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler I'm a Toyota MDT, I know how filters work. You are killing the magnetic attraction by using the tape....
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
@@bluesky-ud9wg The tape is not inherently a magnetic shield since it contains no metal. It IS true, however, that the magnetic field is a little weaker due to the fact that the magnets are spaced away from the metal shell of the filter by the thickness of the adhesive tape. However, this small loss in magnetism is more than offset by using several magnets, as opposed to just one. Also, the tape provides at least some thermal insulation for the magnets, which helps them maintain their strength longer.
@ukariah5 ай бұрын
will this work on the 85?
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
I have no experience with that particular model year, but if the threads on the tank are 20mm x 1mm, I don't see why not.
@ukariah5 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler i do believe the 20mm1mm is the size for my cb700sc
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
If that's the case, you should be good to go, provided that there is sufficient clearance with the valve cover. On the 750, it's pretty tight.
@kevinpt35 ай бұрын
Do you know any information on the rack. I only have seen photos of two bikes other then mine that have the rack
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
The rack was made by BESTEM (an Australian company, I believe). No longer in production. What specific information are you looking for?
@JunelleMiranda5 ай бұрын
Just found your channel and I like your style of content. It’s quick, to the point and you show useful skills! Thank you 😊
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
Thank you for watching -- I appreciate the feedback!
@ClassicRider5 ай бұрын
Being? - Martin Heidegger ? btw: not a Babbits nor Ebay -
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
I think in this case Being is just a matter of Time :) These parts will pop up eventually ...
@ClassicRider5 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video - quick question(s): I did a rebuild on my 1979 the other day . The Low Speed Jet had come loose on Carb 3 from a Bike Repair Rebuild. I restored my 79 CB750 that I had stored sine 1988, during shelter in place. I rebuilt the carbs then. Seeking a professional final touch, the Bike Repair Rebuild was supposed to be simply tuning. I discovered that Springs #3 and #4 were longer as if stretched. She seems to run okay, but wonder if even the same spring but stretched, is there any effective difference where the longer on has more spring pressure. Also - where can one find such springs? ?
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
Not a good idea to stretch the springs, in my opinion -- see my response to a comment from @joshlucas5907, below. I don't know if these springs are still available from Honda. Babbitt's Honda Parts online is a good resource. Otherwise, I would try my luck on eBay, Facebook marketplace, Craigslist, etc. 1 month ago
@ClassicRider5 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler Hi - Thanks for your reply and suggestions - Agreed - I would not stretch the two remaining, and will look at Babbits and the other suggestions -
@randy42495 ай бұрын
You are very detailed!! The aluminum supply hose cracked on mine and wondered where you bought the fittings to re-do with a rubber hose between the compressor head and the tank. Thanks Randy
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
Hi Randy -- this compressor came with the rubber hose originally. I would try McMaster-Carr's on-line catalog to see if fittings that fit the bill (no pun intended) are available. Obviously, the hose to be used needs to have an appropriate pressure rating.
@randy42495 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler Thanks for the suggestion Sir. Wish mine did too, the vibration of the compressor running does the aluminum tubing in.
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
@@randy4249 Yes, the aluminum tube cracking seems to be a common problem with these :(
@_BlueCollarGamer5 ай бұрын
The water makes all the difference. Or whatever you are using. When I see people using popsicle sticks or other spreaders I just think to myself how much harder they are making this simple task LOL.
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
Agreed on popsicle sticks, ice cubes, and spreaders. Good-old finger gives one much more control.
@_BlueCollarGamer5 ай бұрын
All you need is a WET finger and youll get zero stick and a glass smooth finish with zero effort. Keep a glass of water on hand while applying and you are good to go.
@Zerk_Ziegler5 ай бұрын
I appreciate the comment. Water DOES work. However, it does not "wet-out" on a surface nearly as well as mineral spirits do. That said, chemicals, like mineral spirits, will never offer the same health benefits as good old H2O does :) If concerned with exposure, water is definitely safer. But, mineral spirits work way better. I will try to make a short vid to demonstrate.
@Zerk_Ziegler6 ай бұрын
Believe it or not, even installing these covers can cause issues. Watch here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2SqfX6CiLqprtE
@susieroberts81756 ай бұрын
Very clear - thank you so much! 😊
@Zerk_Ziegler6 ай бұрын
You are very welcome. Please see video description for additional details.
@JOEZEP546 ай бұрын
Good tip! First 👍 Stay safe, Joe Z
@Zerk_Ziegler6 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching -- I appreciate the feedback.
@JOEZEP546 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler You're welcome
@ecisnerosvivas6 ай бұрын
I agree to the difference between dry and lubricated torque, but the torque value tipycally is around 18 foot pound which es a very low value to break a spark plug, on top of that, Champion know about spark plugs because they make them, they make and recommend graphite based thread lubricant and I guess they take that in consideration, on the other hand it is a type of dry lubricant.
@YueYue-j8v6 ай бұрын
We have Carburetor Float Bowl Chamber Kits that may fit your equipment. We can provide it for free. Do you need?
@cannack6 ай бұрын
we use either dealership branded, or wurth brand brake & parts cleaner, it is basically Coleman camp fuel (Naptha/heptanes) basically very very light gasoline. Methyl hydrate/methanol, acetone, isopropyl are also good in certain applications Most options are still carcinogenic being either chlorine solvents or petroleum solvents (acetone is not, welders favorite btw) , but chlorinated solvents are certainly worse. acetone is also very... pungent, very easy to tell if your ventilation isn't working lol
@Zerk_Ziegler6 ай бұрын
Yes, acetone, isopropyl alcohol, and carb cleaner can all be used to clean metal before welding. Chlorinated cleaners -- NOOO!
@cannack6 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler yeah I dont like the idea of running an arc through any compound with chlorine in it, just bad news all around One downside to alcohols & heptanes compared to chlorinated solvents is their profound flammability, too many sparks flying from someone working in the bay beside you can set your buddies brake clean sprayer on fire.
When the VOES fails, it does so in the open position, which means that ignition timing will always be retarded. But the bike will still run. However, throttle response will suffer somewhat.
@crazyDIYguy7 ай бұрын
I have the CV carb vents protruding from inside my plenum after the air filter in my ram air system. So far the bike performs the best this way. That being said I get wavy acceleration with a slight hesitation before I get positive air pressure, or higher speeds. I'm wondering if I should play with the slides...
@Zerk_Ziegler7 ай бұрын
Before you do, you may want to check the price of replacement ones ...
@crazyDIYguy7 ай бұрын
@@Zerk_Ziegler I have two extra racks from two different identical parts bikes. I'm just ripping my hair out with this ram air system and you seem smart. I'm just going to have to get the wideband 02 on it and read my AFR inevitably.
@Zerk_Ziegler7 ай бұрын
@@crazyDIYguy Using a wideband O2 sensor to read AFR is always a good idea. It does help to approach jetting in a methodical manner -- see, e.g., www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html. You can also use an acceleration meter, like one from SPLLab, to fine-tune the results.