😀Good to Know, Great Tips

This is so far the closest to what I'm trying to accomplish, just without the charger. Have a 5th wheel... adding solar panels and Lith batteries. How would I bypass the trailers invertor/convertor to make this setup work? Would I need a breaker switch like you show for shore power? Or was that just for demonstration purposes?

Instead of sliding the wires into the solder connector. Intertwine the wire strands, making a solid mechanical connection and sliding the solder connector over and melting. It gives you a stronger on mechanically.

Excellent. I think you’re the only one who’s done this comparison test.

great job with this mate, very informative :)

Does the Pro sensor have a USB plug to connect via the power bank or throw other power supplies? How long does his battery live? I want to install the sensor on my car's propane tank 70 liters. It is cylindrical and located horizontally. Will this pro version sensor work? Thank you.

Thanks for the info about the Cerbo GX not needing the Touch 50 or 70, and the ability to use a tablet or smart phone. I had NO IDEA the Cerbo GX could operate like that. This ability (tablet or Smartphone) would be very useful in my truck camper because I have no place to run the wires from the Cerbo GX to the Touch screen, unless they are surface mounted on a wall, which is very un-elegant. I have a CCGX which works fine, but it's mounted low and in a hard to view area, maybe I will replace it with a Cerbo and use an existing tablet I already have.

I just bought my Victron charger and I can’t logon to the Victron app. It tells me that my email address has not been verified error code 1512. How do I register or verify my email address? Is there a technical support number I can get any support support sucks so far.

Ended up here somehow, but very interesting. If I can’t solder I like the solder seal ones as an alternative. But I like to use marine heatshrink over the solder seal heatshrink. It ends up looking like a soldered connection and makes it more rigid. Slide a piece over before heating the solder seal, let it cool a little then seal it up.

Thanks for this I just set this up for my two propane tanks on my catamaran

Enjoyed the video ...

Great stuff, as always, thanks Luke!

You do not understand DC ripple. DC Ripple occurs when DC is created using an AC power source plus a rectifier to output DC current. It has nothing to do with the use of inverters. Voltage drop due to too much current over wires too thin for the load is just voltage drop. The alarm from the invertor indicates an under-voltage condition, not DC Ripple. Wire gauge vs length vs load charts are available to help determine the proper gauge of wire for the length and required load in amperes. Since inverters are voltage-sensitive, I recommend upsizing wire gauges where practical. i.e. If the chart says 2/0 wire is ok, use 3/0. When calculating wire length, you must take into account the total length of the wire run, adding the length of the positive to the length of the negative cables. Your 12' foot example is likely 24 feet.

All points are critical.

Ross, have you done any videos addressing the differences in quality in various LiFePO batteries? Why does a Battle Born cost around $1000 for 100ah and some of these other companies are selling 12.8v 280ah for $539? Cheap quality control?

Is the IP65 Lithium compatible

Ok so I have a travel trailer camper. Do I still need a ignition wire or am I okay with the way I have it.I don't leave my truck connected at camp site or home.

A. W. E. S. O. M. E. !!!

Question I’m a beginner in electrical I’m am currently restoring my engine harness I am using the crimp button connectors . Question is I see on the butt connectors show AWG 12-10 ,10-24 ,16-14 etc do I need to find butt connectors that match the same size of the wiring cables .?

So you only need 1 positive bus bar, which sends power from the battery out, and receives the charge back into the battery (when on shore power)?

I have a 2 year old installation in a boat and want to add a couple Ruuvi sensors. I followed your instructions on setting up the BT in the IO screen. But there is a BT device already detected. I looked at the Device Menu, and I don't see any devices with that name. Could it be on a nearby boat? If I add a Ruuvi sensor, will the "rouge" BT signal mess things up?

Excellent answer to the question i just came across! You're awesome! Thanks for all the time you invest in educating us!

Where can i get those exact connectors you used,the solder seals ones....?

Where would you put you distribution block

Can you use both? I bought the 500amp shunt before I knew what I was doing.

when the music started I thought I clicked the wrong Channel "Food Wishes" now im hungry

This video was extremely useful and extremely helpful especially since I'm more than likely gonna buy the battleborn battery. But the calculation itself is extraordinarily helpful i deeply appreciate this video it is the best video I have seen all this topic and I keep looking and everyone explains what it is but not how to do the calculation properly I deeply deeply appreciate this video!

Thank you so much for this video. I have been researching for awhile on how I want to build my system and this has given me the confidence that I need. Thank you! Earned a sub.

You do such a great job with these videos! The information I have received is invaluable! Thank you!!

He is not happy.... Lol

0:34 too many appliances 2:14 lights should be 12v dimmers 3:04 invest in heating/cooling for comfort 4:22 plug in ability 5:28 relay instead of dc to dc charger 7:10 details on his cheat sheet (free) 8:28 easy switch for water heater 9:48 electric heaters (1500w!) 12:56 locking hardware

I confess to be very disappointed with Blue Sea MRBF fuses and fuse holder. Using a fuse rated at 80A and drawing a current of 45A, the fuse/fuse holder and downstream 4awg cable became VERY warm! The fuse holder to battery terminal was not where the heat was being generated, it was the fuse to cable connection. So I torqued it down as hard as I dare. That improved the situation but running at half rated capacity of fuse for 5 minutes or so, heat was still being generated and running up the cable. So no way would I run this fuse at anywhere near capacity. And if I put in a higher rated fuse say 100A, the fuse contact area (which is where I think heat is being generated) is the same as 80A fuse! Not a fan of MRBF😔😔😔

I find these videos very useful I don’t have an RV but use all your information for my catamaran also people can follow ABYC rules for RV living as well

Hey Ross - I’ve watched and learned from your videos and appreciate them. My van electronics and Simarine are 80% complete because of these! Can you make a tutorial of solar panels and charge controller running through Simarine? I’m having issues with my set-up.

Do you have any information on the "via"?

great review thanks

Maybe not as convenient in the field as using a hammer, a hydraulic press with the Forney should work well.

So you can only run certain things off the solar 12-volt system, and so you would not be able to run something like an air conditioner off of it. My question is, if you had a generator to power things like an air conditioner when you didn't have Shore power, how would you set it up so that you could have your air conditioner running off your generator, but everything else running off the solar system ?

The only thing it seems you wouldn't be able to do with this system is run something that requires that high voltage if you did not have that shore power.

I have a couple issues. First you said 4/0 wire is 430 amps and I see 230 most everywhere. Hooking up a 4000 watt 48 volt inverter they may say minimum in free air #4. Then it goes #1 in conduit, 5-10 feet #1/0 and 10 to 15 in conduit #2/0. For free air after the minimum size of #4, 5-10 feet is #2 and 10-15 feet is #1/0. I can see using the big wire for distance and the main power cable but hooking up the 4 batteries in the battery bank should be able to use #4 as that is the minimum wire size for the inverter. Most people tell you to have all the cable the same and it seems a waste of money and time making up all of those large cables from #2/0 cable. I also think battery interconnects should be able to have metal buss bars. The next thing they talk about is terminals having one connection and all of these charts show multiple connections.

I don’t understand how you add the charger to the transfer switch. If you are bringing 30a into the switch from the shore power, how do you wire in a 15a switch and outlet to plug you 15a battery charger to the same Waco connector?

If the battery BMS will shut things down if it goes above the rating (as in Mistake #1) then why the need for a fuse at the battery bank (Mistake #4)?

can this system be used to do things like lights control, slide control, electric blind control?

Do you know if a see level II sensor alone can be used with the Simarine Pico?

This is fantastic! thank you for the informative video. one question, I want to use this same set up to prevent a water tank from freezing when conditions get very cold. However, I think this will draw too much electricity for the relay built into the cerbo. It will be 80watts total. how would I go about doing this? thanks for all your help!

Hi iv'e been asking everywhere and no one has answered my question and wondered if you can. I have a 100ah lifepo4 battery, 100w solar panel, a victron 75/15 mppt and an 1100w energizer inverter. How do i stop the inverter completely draining the battery. These battery protects can't be connected to an inverter. I would like a way to adjust the voltage and cut off. Any help would be appreciated.

Subscribed! although in my small RV trailer (a 5' X 10' squaredrop) I am building pretty much this exact system, but using a Samlex 30A transfer switch. This one has two fused 120V outlets for a battery charger and whatever else. I'm using the second plug as the 120V source for my reliable, old Engel compressor fridge. I have already installed a 15A 120V light switch to better control my shore charger so it was nice to see Ross suggest this. Now I know I'm not totally nuts. hahaha... QUESTION: Chassis grounding! Can you make or do you already have a vid explanation on this topic? For example, grounding my Samlex 1500W pure sine wave inverter using 1/0 (yes, as it's case ground)... do I want to run a separate, negative ground buss bar and then run that to my trailer frame? If my inverter were to fault then send 150 amps into my trailer frame, would that possibly damage the powertrain control module of the tow vehicle (if still hitched, chained, etc to it). Thanks Ross! You are the man!

I must admit to a slight chuckle at the sight of the calculator fastened to the board. Excellent visual presentation. Perhaps for the more _"OCD"_ viewers, one could crimp on a butt splice (after sliding a piece of _adhesive lined_ heat shrink tubing (HST) on the wire first), flow some solder into the splice, then slide the HST over the splice and shrink it down.

Lithium is the first mistake ! I have little to no issues with lead carbon AGM were good too. Keep the lithium I’ll stay old school

Hello Luke I am having issues with the last firmware , have you hear something ? the screen is blocked.