@@mikecampbell5856 I appreciate the compliment. I’m definitely better than I was.

Thanks, will do!

I was looking at those on that jungle website.

@@PossibleAudio I was looking for one, then I saw Fran Blanche using this 'FA-400 Antidious Fume Extractor w/ filter' on her channel. I bought one on the jungle site, it works.

@@Geoduck. Thanks! I’m working on the P700. It’s going to be a long when I think.

Cornbread Sausage Dressing sounds really good.

Did you find any mislabeling on the board for the transistors lead positioning?

@@curtwheeler5019 Do you have the service manual? I have not started rebuilding my 1060 yet. Check the service manual to the board. Also some updated transistors may have their legs changed. Be very sure to check the data sheet.

@@curtwheeler5019 no

Got the propeller used off Facebook marketplace. It's not real, but looks great. I paid $30 for it.

@PossibleAudio I need one then. That looks awesome.

@@LawsonsStudio Thanks!

@@LawsonsStudio That’s a good question and I don’t have an answer for it.

@@martinten5236 I have absolutely no idea.

I noticed the preamp board on my Marantz 2245 didn't have these. 1/2 of the transistors had a much different shape. I used the same value transistors on the 1060 as the 2245. I can't hear any problems or issues.

I hope when its done, it is amazing.

@@PossibleAudio This weekend I was restoring a turntable from the late 70s. It is a DD QL. There were about 10 electrolytic caps (ELNA). I used your approach of measuring them after they were removed from the PCB. Perhaps a couple measured OK, but most measured +50% capacitance over the spec. So, the 10uF ones were measuring about 15uF, pretty bad! The 33 rpm was not locking, the 45 rpm was - this may be one of the reasons. The “monster glue” was all around the PS caps and some diodes and a resistor. I removed all, and cleaned the PCB. I will install new ones this week. I will use your approach also and will install WIMA film to replace the small electrolytic ones, probably 1uF and below.

I was initially using my old Chinese Desoldering Station S-993A. I bought it in 2018 and did a lot of vintage audio equipment restorations with it. I kept it clean and replaced its nozzle and filter as needed. But, OMG, it can be dangerous. Something happened with its internal pump. I was using it this weekend and it was melting the solder on the PBC as it should, but it was not sucking the air/solder properly. In the end it damaged a few pads. I stopped using it and went back to the safer method of desoldering wick. I will try to fix the damaged pads, some are in bad shape. I’ve heard that the Hakko FR301-03 is good but it costs over $300 - I will keep it in my “wish list” for now…

@@kylesmithiii6150 Folks swear by the Hakko FR301. I've heard nothing but good things. Expensive like you're saying. If I keep doing this as a long term hobby, I'll sell off a piece of equipment to buy better tools like the Hakko FR301. I'd like to do another Marantz 1060. It's just so easy to rebuild.

@@kylesmithiii6150 I need to go through my Technics SL-D2

Over time there were different variations of of the Marantz 1060. They didn't update the Service Manual. With that in mind... H401, H402, H405, H406 KSC1815. For H403/404/407 408 I used KSA992. This is at your own risk. I recommend joining Audiokarma as there are folks there that can guide you through any issues. The mod with the large filter caps was a joke. The only real mod I did was not reinstalling the small ceramic capacitors that joined the collectors of the transistors. I left them out. Working fine for me. Also the transistors used were a guess based on my Marantz 2245 which has a very similar P400 board. This build is more of a show and tell, but a lot of useful information here and there normally in my videos. I got in a hurry on this one as its been a busy week and I' tired. I can tell you the P700 board which is the main amplifier board, is getting 95% disassembled and rebuilt. Taking more time with videos on it. Should be a good one. All the best!

@@PossibleAudio Right on, thanks for the reply! I guess to make things easier you could add a link to the Audiokarma thread so people can follow along. Have a great weekend!

@@PossibleAudio Thank you very much and your videos are entertaining and pleasing to watch .

Do it! Thanks!

Fantastic work. Thanks for the video!

@@leonidbreshnew401 Thanks for the advice!

Thanks for the sub!

Join Audiokarma.com and get a parts list there. Great group to help if you have questions or run into trouble. Videos by AH-Fix-it on KZbin are really good to watch. I also recommend buying an old VCR or stereo receiver that broke for $5 or $10. Use it to practice soldering.

Thanks for the info!

Undecided. If I do, it will be early 2025.

@ thx

2 of them must be nice! I'm going to do a separate video on cleaning and lubricating the switches. It will come out in about 5-6 weeks.

It's never to late to get another!

If you go to Audiokarma you'll find many build threads with folks sharing parts lists on the Marantz 1060. I'm not listing parts on this rebuild series as I'm modifying/experimenting with of many parts. I'd hate to see you end up with a lot of problems to sort out. The folks on Audiokarma are great and can get you started. Thanks!

@@PossibleAudio Ok, makes sense.

I appreciate that!

KSC2383

@@PossibleAudio Thank you very much....I work with tubes since almost 7 decades but transistors are a different technology , I have a vintage collection tubes and transistors , The 1060 was my first transistor amplifier in 1975 , I still cherish it ...

Yes, changes are often made during production runs, but the service manuals rarely get updated to reflect. Sometimes a service bulletin will come out for a major change or upgrade. Thanks!

Thanks 👍

Yes, I learned that too. I also learned that some types of solder wick come with some flux in it from factory, some don't. I usually apply flux like 'Kester 186 Liquid Soldering Flux, RMA Rosin' from Amazon to desolder (or solder) components, it usually makes the job easier.

I have some and its been sitting as bench decor. I'll use it on the next video. All the best!

​@PossibleAudio don't forget to clean up the flux at the bottom of the pcb my friend...how could you leave it like that..!?

You should!

It's a Travel-Aire 431 from around 1935. It's all original and complete. The wood case is beautiful and a 9/10. I may rebuild it next.

Just cheap home decor. Not functional.

Thanks for wtching!

Yup. I'm taking notes off your build thread. I need all of the help I can get.

@ that’s awesome, reach out if you have any questions and all I can say is when your done your going to be impressed… 1060’s are special, restored ones are even better… noticeable improvements await you!!

Break it down to a single board at a time. Test each board as it's completed then move to the next board. Try and find a Marantz 1060. It's really a GREAT sounding unit and easy to work n.