Canadian here, for the Japanese pull saw handles I like to remove the slippery bamboo handle and do a hockey stick spiral wrap pattern for it. Makes a HUGE difference comfort wise and also feels much more in control.

Hello Richard, Thank you... great video on an important topic. The biggest problem I have had in setting the distance of the cap iron from the cutting edge of the plane iron has always been the movement I get of the cap iron as I am tightening the screw down. It is aggravating to have it move forward and ruin a super-sharp edge! I must be very careful as I tighten the screw, and even then sometimes the cap iron moves forward. How do you manage this problem?

You just saved me $120 for the clamps I needed. Thank you!

We found him, we found Geppetto! Apparently it was Richard all along.

Two things I've done with my Stanley 5½ plane which have hugely improved the finish are do as you say & move the cap iron as close as I can to the cutting edge & replace the iron with a thicker one* (Ray Iles). I don't know whether it's the reduced vibration of the thicker iron or the reduced mouth which helps. *Needs a longer cap screw, which Thomas Flinn sells.

Can you show a drawing of ‘the round over’ please? It’s really hard to see exactly what you’re doing plus you flip back/ forth a few times so… like the ole shell game

Did you do just all of this with the same plane?

Video full of knowledge, thank you!

The camera was able to show some of the tear out! Great Video, I spend a lot of time setting up my #4 plane much like your #3 in the video, I like the end result I get when I set the cap iron as close as I can to the flat iron blades edge.

Thank you for the best video of rebating i have ever seen, many many thanks!

Great video. I appreciate you giving us the American translation.

Thanks a lot, this is very useful. I have a small issue with the idea of flipping the second board for compensating square errors: in order to be sure that the angles do add up to 180 degrees, you need the boards to be milled to thickness (at least one of them). If both faces are not parallel on the board you flip, then the edge will not be square to the face that matters (i.e. the top face for the flipped board). When I do a project with hand tools, I like to avoid having to go through the thickness planer and only flatten one face on my boards. I flatten the back side only after the glue-up. But I can still use your advice for the first step, i.e. removing twist in both edges. Then I clamp both boards together in the face vise, with the face sides inside, and I can finalize the planing of both edges at once, knowing there's no twist.

Oh man, I spent so much time fussing with the tenon when in reality my mortise walls were not plumb. This video was super helpful.

what were the exact nails you use on your clinching video and where can I get them? What length did you use?

Ha ha! Ten years on and still invaluable! I have been searching for just such instructions before I destroy a nice dove-tail box I'm making. I need to put rabbets around the base of the lid to create a recess for it to fit into the top of the box. Thanks for posting, and I hope you are still thriving in your woodworking!

I miss this guy's videos

often in my cap iron and blade assembly the wood chips get stuck between the cap iron and blade. Why and how to fix that?

Jesus man, just did this to my smoothing N.4 and it works like it has never worked before, I had a 2x2 short piece of a wood named "caobilla" which had like the worst grain you can ever imagine, the direction of the grain was everywhere, and it left it as smooth as glass. I spent like 3 hours doing it because the cap iron looked like sh-, but totally worth the effort 🙌🏻

Not enough videos out there showing us how to fix the screw ups. Much appreciated!

Thank you

What size and length nail do you use and is it the nail you recommend for this project?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise - great video.

Very helpful. Thank you!

Great video, cheers

Can't wait to make one.

I applied the second method of chopping along the rebate to cut some through dados. It really helped in clearing the waste. Just be careful of the far end of the dado.

Camera on the plane is very cool idea. I like your technique how you pull the shaving with your thumb and index finger. Looks efficient

Is the hammer big enough? Jk but sending thoughts and prayers to that brave handle

Great information

Where have you been sir we miss your youtube videos my friend. I gave my mum a spoon rack made in black walnut and she brags and brags about it to everyone 🎉🎉

" a nat's nadger out" beautiful phrasing

It’s been a long time. Hope you’re doing ok. Hoping to see another video from you soon

I've been a carpenter/joiner for just over 40 years and I use a both hard and soft tooth saws interchangeably; I'm not a tool snob whatever works best is best to use, as far as I'm concerned.

Great info. Thank you.

extremely interesting stuff

that screeching sound it killed my rabbits.

You did good today. Was about to glue up some bunk bed cleats to the rails and had never checked if the growth rings ran opposite. Thank you.

I return to this video every once in a while, there is such lot of good advice here, wishing you were still making these brilliant informative videos !

Thanks, I’ve definitely learned a thing or two!

I'm fairly certain the reason you bend it over the grain instead of with the grain is because you would be putting the tip through the same grain line close to each other. In drier woods this can cause the board to split. Another thing to know is if you're using oval/cut nails it's not a bad idea to predrill a small hole to prevent the wedging of the nail from creating splits as well.

Planes trains and automobiles

This video is 10 years old and I'm still going to thank you

Damn I missed the sharpener truck yesterday. This would be a lot easier with professionally sharpened tools. That's what I get for being a lazy or maybe not wanting to look like a dog running down the street after a truck😂

Interesting 🤔

The reason japanese pull saws are favoured over western saws for ripping, is because there's less effort required. With western saws you're pushing, (which is mainly relying on weight) and with japanese saws you're pulling. This uses a lot of back, arm and shoulder muscles and not one arm weight. Because of this it's always easier pulling than pushing.

Given a flat-square board, would dowels provide strength and alignment?

Хотя и сделано по мастерски ,волокна подобраны неправильно,Они должны быть горизонтальны , параллельно подошве

Great job on the box. The tool marks are subtle but a great detail. How often did you need to sharpen any of your planes during the process? Tremont Nail Co. here in the states, still makes square cut nails. Their clench nails have a rectangular cross section that give a nice effect when clenched.

For all my years in woodworking I have been a power tool guy, probably because of the New Yankee Workshop and Norm Abram. Now at the tender age of 76, I am drawn into the world of hand tools, especially bench planes and chisels. A safer and more relaxing way of working in wood, not to mention the safety of it. Dustless and noiseless. What I don’t understand is why anyone likes exerting that much energy in sawing heavy lumber, a bandsaw is a more civilized way to go. If I wanted a workout, I would go to a gym. Japanese saws are flimsy and can’t be sharpened and a pull stroke feels unnatural. Not everyone is built like this fellow and even he dislikes the job.

I love your videos I'm definitely buying a few this year