Sure. Myrtus communis.

@@TerryErasmusbonsai from what country? Here in the Philippines we have lagerstroemia indica

They are originally from the Mediterranean I believe. Lagerstoemia is a nice species to work with particularly plants with a smaller leaf, but it is still better to make a larger tree with them as the flowers are found at the ends of new growth only.

🙇🏼‍♂️

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks so very much Duane! Your support means a lot.

@TerryErasmusbonsai it's my pleasure. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and share your knowledge in detail. I was fortunate to aquire this tree from you recently and enjoyed seeing a bit of it's history and the general plan for the future.

Thanks Howard. I am not sure where you read that but avoid spraying on spruce, hemlock, azaleas, and tropical trees. You most certainly can spray maples though. When you write evergreen I’m not sure if you also mean conifer like pines? These you can of course also spray and should.

@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thanks for the reply

Yes it is possible. But rooting can take some time ie two years or even more.

Thanks for adding your view. I appreciate the constructive comments and will definitely take into account for the next one.

Yes. But not Q-20. Wd-40 is organic but Q-20 is synthetic

@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thankyou😃

Awesome! Not the easiest and one needs to understand making small trees the emphasis is going to be on the flower but you can get reasonable ramification if you’re attentive

Thanks, I agree. It’s the best feature!

I’m sorry but I do not have the tree anymore so cannot measure it.

No problem was just wondering wanting to start a swamp cypress Thanks for replying

@donniesquires6093 ok. Enjoy your project.

Thanks very much for your concern. Yes I believe they are but am not out of the woods yet.

Somerset West, South Africa.

No I don’t think this is possible for the species to do that. Flowering is much more sparse, possibly as the flowers require so much of the plant resources it would kill the plant if it were to do that.

Thanks so much Mark! That’s truly flattering. I did do an update on it prior to selling it. It’s in this playlist kzbin.info/aero/PL07aoEnuQCWPF-O7RcfTLLO2NpVqt34HO&si=ysdLrE-177VCz0zO

Thanks Chris. Thanks for your open mindedness. If only more people were as mature with their views as you clearly are.

Absolutely. You in the market for some by any chance 😉

😀🙌🏻

2 weeks.

@TerryErasmusbonsai Thank you Terry

No problem.

Early spring is the best time, before the buds open with new leaves.

Thanks so much. Yes, that topiary look holds no appeal for me. Thanks for commenting.

Thanks for the question. I don’t think it’s going to make much of a difference when you cut it. I guess if you really want to err on the side of caution then do so in spring.

Awesome! I am glad it will help you in the future.

I repot mine in spring. Best is to do it when they are just starting to grow and are thus active. Pruning I do once new growth has hardened off from a bright green to the mature bottle green.

Thank you kindly. Much appreciated

Thank you so much! Wish there were more enthusiasts with your consideration.

Thank you so much for your consideration and support!

If you split it and keep it split? Or with the intention to make bending easier? Yes it will make bending easier but when it heals it’s likely to leave an ugly fusion and it will also prevent you from alternating the course of the live vein when creating shari.

@TerryErasmusbonsai Thanks Terry. I intend to bend the branch and it's very stiff and about 2.5 inches thick So I think it's better to carve inside of the bend and fix a 6 or 7 size Aluminium wire and wrap it with raffia and bend it gradually over a period of time. I can't think of any other way. What do you think of this method Terry ?

Ofcourse I don,t intend to create Shari on this branch and after the bend I wanted to put the split back togethe

That is a legitimate technique yes.

Ok. Understood. I don’t think it will ever heal properly though.

No.

The time I know works best is early spring. You might be able to do it mid summer too but then you might need to shade the scion more against heat.

This differs based on how strong the tree is and how tight you made the wire. Best is to eyeball the tree and act appropriately

Yes and no. So what do you want to achieve please? Essentially the low branches yes to prevent them from becoming too coarse. Not the escape branch, that must extend uncut.

@@TerryErasmusbonsai I want to achieve a thick trunk low base shohin tree, should I leave one candle going straight up?😀

@Mitchell-y6u that’s right. Keep the low buds healthy but don’t allow them to develop into sacrifices. When you begin removing the escape branch you will find more energy transferring to this low growth and even a bunch new buds - provided the tree is growing very healthily.

@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thanks

Thank you. I guess the short answer is to say a client commissioned the forest inspired by work of John Naka. My take on it is that it is meant to represent the dead tips of trees such as those in the forest belt of the north. Not something you’d typically see on swamp cypress I guess but nonetheless I will behind the “but it’s art” comment. Hope that answer suffices for now 😉

@ Thanks, it makes sense. I wonder if the replication of cypress “knees” is possible in bonsai form.

@TheStandardJoe I believe I have seen this in bonsai but I’m not sure if it was real or made to create that impression.

🙌🏻

No. I’ve never had that problem.

Correct. A filler is only needed when it’s a large scar and usually when rotting wood is involved.

@TerryErasmusbonsai thank you

@danhip2442 no worries.

www.bonsaitree.co.za/collections/bonsai-nibblers

Sure thing!