I’m not sure if there’s a pressure relief valve in the system, but it sounds like there might be a clog or air entering somewhere. Here’s what you can try: 1. Disconnect the return line and place it into a bucket. 2. Start the vehicle and pour clean fluid into the reservoir while monitoring the return line. If the return line produces a continuous, unobstructed stream, the issue might be resolved. Once you reconnect the hoses, run the system with the reservoir cap off to bleed any air out of the lines. Be sure to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock to circulate the fluid fully. If air continues to get into the system, the pump could be the culprit. Check out my video on the pump for more details.

I appreciate you confirming my observations and conclusion.

I strongly recommend you do research online before buying a Hyundai/ Kia. Let's just say their reputation is severely under stress

@@themarginalmechanic5928 Yeah im scared but i will do my research on Kia more

I have no idea what you're talking about.

Transaxle

What happens if you put in reverse does that work correctly? If that works correctly then I'm going to say it's a valve body. If that does not work correctly then it could be the pump or clogged filter or inadequate amount of fluid. Also that vehicle has a transmission dipstick so you should be able to determine the quality of the fluid and the quantity.

How many miles on it? Does it need a lot of work? If you're in the New Hampshire area I might be able to help you out if you need to get some things done

@themarginalmechanic5928 yeah it's at 160k, engine runs smooth and I'll probably keep up on the oil. atleast make it last hopefully 250k.. I'm in montana I can take a trip haha

Well hopefully I've got videos that can help you out.

@themarginalmechanic5928 have you ever tried chevy wheels on the sedona since they are same bolt pattern or is the center hole to different?

It's important to follow the procedure for checking transmission fluid.

How is this procedure? Worm engine, but I don't know to check it on D N or P transmision mode? Engine running??

Torque converters are prone to various failure modes, but two are especially common. First, the internal vanes, which are pushed by transmission fluid to generate torque, can gradually deform over time. This deformation often occurs at inconsistent rates across the vanes, leading to a noticeable shudder when the torque converter is in a slip mode, gradually matching engine speed. However, once the torque converter locks, this deformation is much less noticeable. The second issue is the potential loss of a counterbalance weight inside the torque converter. If a weight detaches, the converter becomes imbalanced. This imbalance may not be noticeable initially, but as the vehicle reaches a specific RPM-often hitting a resonant frequency-the imbalance produces a vibration similar to that of an unbalanced wheel. If your vehicle’s issue issue only occurs in a particular gear at a specific RPM, it is more likely to be related to the clutch packs within the transmission rather than the torque converter or valve body.

@themarginalmechanic5928, this is super helpful. I really appreciate your comment. The issue is around 2000 rpm (1900-2200), something is not engaging. It’s like a kick then rpm goes up to 2500, and everything is fine. What I am understanding from your common is that only changing torque converter will not solve the issue. Replacing the transmission is my best option or rebuilding it. Transmission specialists are asking between $4k-$5k to rebuild it and only give warranty for 10k miles. My car already has 137k miles on it and I don’t want to spend $4k for transmission.

The kick you describe is actually an important notation and I'm sorry if I overlooked it in the first response. To review. 1. Worn-Out Clutch Packs: Clutch packs are physical components responsible for torque transfer. When they wear out, they tend to slip, especially when shifting gears or under high torque situations, like climbing a hill. This wear results in a loss of grip, making the vehicle feel like it’s struggling to engage gears properly. Worn clutch packs will consistently slip due to their inability to fully transfer torque as they degrade over time. 2. Valve Body Issues: The valve body, on the other hand, controls hydraulic pressure and is responsible for directing fluid between clutch packs during shifts. Problems here can lead to harsh, delayed, or erratic shifting because the valve body modulates the hydraulic pressure that engages each gear. Valve bodies include o-rings, plungers, and other mechanisms that interact with hydraulic fluid. A faulty valve body doesn't require removing the entire transmission to replace; often, a rebuild kit with new seals and components (available from companies like TransGo and Sonnax) can restore functionality. If you have access to real-time transmission data, you may notice unexpectedly slow or irregular pressure changes between shifts (e.g., from 4th to 5th gear), indicating potential valve body issues rather than clutch pack wear. If the issue lies with the valve body, a rebuild or even a remanufactured valve body could resolve it. Many transmission shops can handle these rebuilds, but some prefer using fully tested, remanufactured valve bodies to minimize the risk of error. --- In short: Clutch pack wear results in torque slip and is generally a continuous issue across various driving conditions. Valve body issues manifest as erratic shifts due to hydraulic mismanagement and can often be serviced without full transmission removal. On a side note I just replaced a transmission in a Ford expedition 4x4 and it took me about 15 hours. I got the transmission from a salvage yard for $400 and it had less than 100,000 mi on it. The transmission works perfectly and for 400 bucks I got my money's worth.

The rear main seal and circles the crankshaft so if it's leaking you're going to get engine oil coming out between the engine and the transmission. Depending upon how it runs off it may look like it's coming from some other location. You do have to remove the transmission to change out the rear main seal. It's a big job.

Umm. I might wait until it gets bad ..or might as well replace or rebuild the whole transmission since is the factory one with 270k miles and 2006 (18 years old) , I also surprised this transmission have last this long..probably because I flush it every 50k miles.

So if the compressor is spinning at high RPM and the bearings seized it will most likely snap the serpentine belt which will slap against items under the hood like cooling lines, air conditioning lines and other such things and could do some significant damage.

Yeah, I have been struggling for days trying to get that f@$Kr off! Lets hope tomorrow I will have more sucess with these tips 🤨

You actually can't fill it with oil. If you look inside there you'll see these big orifices for the oil to flow. If you were to pour oil in there it would just pour down into that orifice and disappear.

The driver side one is super easy to get to. Look under the dashboard on the driver side and it's right there on the HVAC unit

Thanks so much I really appreciate it

@@themarginalmechanic5928 I changed both of them everything working great thanks for telling me I appreciate it

I don't recall reading any codes but it was clear on the dashboard that there was a drivetrain error or something like that.

@@themarginalmechanic5928 ahh gotcha, thanks. My car is doing the same exact thing right now and I'm getting one single error code, 420641, which says something about the parking lock being incorrectly applied. I was reading over on bimmerpost, and two other people had the same problem and their issue was also low fluid and they also had that one single code so I'm hoping my issue is just low fluid. I had to screw in that emergency neutral release lever, and get my car towed home about an hour ago. :/

I did not move any components like that from the old engine to the new engine. Before I purchase the replacement engine I personally witnessed it running in the smashed up car that donated it. It ran great and only had 70,000 mi on it so I wasn't going to take anything from the old engine

I was just watching this video and laughing that he kept referring to the transaxle as a transfer case. I'm sure he knows the difference but in his mind somehow they got crisscrossed.

Given that it's a fuel pump and we're talking about electrical connectors it could be different I would strongly recommend the correct part. It doesn't have to be Kia but it should at least be the right part. Good luck

Yes

@@themarginalmechanic5928 why not show that part?

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