Yes, I installed the trailer hitch myself. I ordered the OEM Honda hitch online. Sorry, I don't recall where I ordered it from... Thanks for watching!

The plastic pieces were included in the hitch kit (Honda OEM).

The top was 2 pieces. I got the stools from Amazon. Link here: amzn.to/4f8P9yL

Great, thanks for watching! Always great to hear from a fellow Minnesotan!

Thanks for watching and glad it was helpful!

Great! Have fun and thanks for watching.

It's hard to say because I worked on it off and on over a few months. The main wiring could probably be done in a weekend or two once you get familiar with it. Good luck and thanks for watching.

@@TwintownDIY thanks for responding. Had you not done the whole complete wire harness and just added the motogadent along with the buttons, would it had cut time in half?

@@BP-xv4bn the m-unit wasn't bad, the buttons were more time consuming to wire and route.

Thanks for watching. You could use an alarm like in this link or similar. amzn.to/3WTZ55c I'm not sure if that is what you are looking for, but this alarm could be triggered by a sensor, etc.

There is clearance between the recliners and table so they don't contact the table when reclined. Thanks for watching!

It can be done with the Smartthings outlet I'm using in the video. Create a new if/then routine based on the outlet for when the power meter is above a certain wattage. Then notify someone via text message, etc. Hopefully that works for you. Cheers!

Great! Thanks for watching!

I put in less than stock after the modification, but I intend to try it at the stock level next and compare. I need to put more miles on it to finalize how much fork oil to have in it long term. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any tips on fork level.

@@TwintownDIY Well after doing some research its suggested to fill to spec. I investigated the HD Ltd FLHTK and their spec is 95mm from the top as standard, but if you increase it to 110 - 115mm to compensate for a lowered fork it appears to be less jittery and feels a more smoother operation on the road using oil grade from 15 to 20 wt. [I haven't done any of it yet] There are trades off of course and ya just have to find a balance that suits you. I saw 1 vid of a guy who used the proper made lowering springs and it was stated by the maker to make it 120mm. Food for thought. Don't quote me on it thou! So I think where in the ball park there.. I don't know but i'm thinking having it at spec might cause a harder ride and close to hydraulic lock up if ya know what i mean due to less travel up and down.

Interesting. I agree there are tradeoffs and probably depends some on the rider. Thanks for sharing your findings!

With the bumper installed, there is limited access to route the wires. But the bumper has some flexibility, so it might be possible. If you try it, let me know how it worked. Thanks for watching!

I put some miles on it last year and everything worked well. Since then I've been working on wiring, so haven't ridden in a while. I still want to test different oil levels and see how it affects the ride. Thanks for watching!

Great, thanks for watching!

Thanks for the feedback. Feel free to let me know which dimensions are missing? I'm happy to make updates and continue to improve the plans when necessary. Glad your project came together and thanks for watching! 😀

@@TwintownDIY so on detail pages on prints for openings soffits or load bearing structural details each piece will always have its “nominal” dimensions 3/4”x 3”x 25” and especially have it on the other view for quick reference…. and youre right you had the hole size but the bit sizes are in fractions so fractions make it easier…. And Engineers LUV to use fractions but very few tape measures use decimals so for ease of reference fractions are the way to go… these are little things but they turn the plans you have to figure out and do paper math for into a quick reference that a easy for regular diy people to use

Hmm, not sure about that. Maybe check that the airlock/bung are sealed up well. Thanks for watching!

This was on a 2014 Honda Odyssey. Thanks for watching!

That is the stock Suzuki seat. I'm actually in process of modifying a different seat and the seat pan for the bike. Thanks for watching!

Yes, this is for the brakes and turn signals. Thanks for watching!

I used 3/4" EMT electrical conduit, the i.d.-o.d. is about .82 and .92. Thanks for watching!

That part of the wiring was a bit confusing. I had to study the wiring diagram of my bike and the diagrams I got from Revival Cycles. I used the original equipment (ignitor, signal generator, coils), although I may change these out in the future. For my bike, the m-unit ignition out went to the ignitor and the rest of it was basically the same as before. Hope that helps some. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! The app does show real time info like battery voltage, which systems are on/off, etc. I haven't tested the alarm for that, but I'll reply if I learn more or if another person knows they can chime in. Cheers!

Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!

Saw in another video that I’ll likely need a stiff wire pipe cleaner brush. I’ll give that a shot.

The threads probably do need to be cleaned out. You could carefully chase the threads with a tap if it is still difficult after cleaning.

I haven't noticed any adverse effects from the change, but it might depend on riding style and other factors. I figured that if I didn't like the change I could buy replacement springs and take the spacer out and be fully back to stock. Thanks for watching!

Great idea. Thanks for watching!

Hi, I'm not sure the exact size since they came with the Honda Hitch kit. The best I can say at this point is that they were metric fine thread bolts. But others in the comments have left some ideas on the bolt sizes.

Thanks for watching!

I'm still working through how much oil to have in the fork, but my plan is to reduce the oil by the same percentage of volume reduced in the fork. So calculate the volume of the fork before and after shortening, divide it out and get the percentage. Then use that percentage of the factory recommended amount. But I'm interested in other thoughts on this.....

@@TwintownDIY Thank you By the way, do you cut the spring (2:47) to the same length as the pipe (1:37)?

@@user-df1qr2fe4g That's right, the spacer is the same length as what was removed from the fork spring.

@@TwintownDIY just a question. Why did you need a spacer?

The spacer brings the spring up the the top of the fork tube. Basically replacing the length of spring cut with a spacer to fill the fork tube, but lowers the ride height.

Thanks so much! Glad you liked it.

It can be confusing. Putting the spacer on the damping rod will lower the ride height, but makes the whole assembly longer. The spring is cut to match, otherwise the it would extend past the top cap.

Thanks for the explanation. Also is there a way of shortening the forks without cutting the springs?

The easiest way is to just raise up the forks in the clamps. It will lower the front end and just have some of the fork sticking out above the top clamp.

Gotta love those GS bikes! Thanks for sharing your experience with the M-Unit. It drove me to get some switches and tools I didn't originally plan on, but I agree the wiring itself is pretty clear. Thanks for watching!

That's awesome! Good luck with your project.

Thanks for watching. It's probably hard to see in the video, but the spring has a taper on one end that goes in the bottom of the fork. The other end has the tighter spring pitch for the progressive rate for the forks. I didn't want to cut the tapered end that rests in the bottom of the fork so it does sacrifice some of that progressive spring rate.

Thanks for watching. As you approach the bike, it basically unlocks the electrical system. So when you are within range, 1 push on the starter will turn on the ignition (lights, etc.), one more push will activate the starter for the engine. To turn it off, push the starter button twice to stop the engine, and twice more to turn off the ignition. When you walk out of range the electrical system locks again, so someone couldn't just go up to the bike and start it using the procedure above. Hopefully that makes sense.

Hey thanks Jeff!!

That is another option. Clip-ons would be too low for the riding position I wanted on this bike and if I raised the forks much it would have hit my handlebars. Also I generally prefer the look of the fork legs being flush at the top. Either way works, just depends on the look and fit you want on the front end. Good luck!

Nevermind, I see them. Thanks again. Looks great.

Great! If you have any questions on the plans, just drop me an email through the website, etc.

is there an alternative app that you use- I like this set up but how can i monitor it with the app discontinued - please advise! Great video

@@nightfuryflight7389 Now I'm using the SmartThings app. It's the latest version and it works well too since they discontinued the classic app.

I’m just getting into home automation. Does the smart things water sensor trigger the outlet? And can I get it to activate a central siren too?

The water sensor triggers notifications in the Smartthings app that send me a text message and notification in the app. The outlet is always on, but I have it send me a notification if it is off which would happen if the power goes out. There is a battery backup sump pump that will turn on automatically when the water level rises and is separate from my smart home. You can also trigger a siren through the app. Thanks for watching!

That's great. Thanks! A few options come to mind to detecting water lower in the basin: attaching the water sensor to the pipe with cable ties at the height you want or mounting on a shelf/bracket in the basin. I haven't tried it but probably could solder a set of wires to the exterior leads on the water sensor to extend into the basin and keep the main sensor above the cover. Just make sure to have those exposed leads at the height you want and test that it works properly.

Thank you! Cheers!

That's great! Thanks so much.