I’m glad it’s worked for you, I do wonder if it’s my combination of changes that doesn’t help the mpg.

It needed a new water pump seal as that was the main issue and while we were in everything cleaning we replaced the two o rings in the cooler.

Yes mine did.

It's actually not too bad to replace the fuel pressure regulator, the subframe can be lifted and rotated to allow access. I think it took me about an hour or two to swap out mine.

​@@nogaragerequiredthanks for that, will replace and double check hall sensor and hopefully sort the problem 👍

These were off of Amazon amzn.to/3Cvanb6

@@nogaragerequired Thanks

It was an eBay purchase, that link is no longer active. Sorry

It was the Hall effect sensor in the end. Not a terrible job to replace just a little expensive as I went for the Bosch version.

he misspoke its 20

I’m not sure. I’ve always done the plugs at the same time with the valves since fresh plugs are cheap.

Makes sense.. I just realized that I'll need plugs put anyway to turn over engine.. Compression. What's a bike like that going for $ in the UK these days?

⁠ I got mine for £850 but as a non runner. The HES needed replacement, so 150ish fixed that. Generally they go for around £1300-2000 depending on the condition.

​@@nogaragerequiredsimilar to here. I got 1998 R1100r, good running, new tires and a few things $3300 Canadian $ it's a USA bike in miles, only 30,000 miles. I'd send a pic but can't do it on here. I like it. Fun to ride.

it was the ABM Handlebar conversion kit for the 93-96 model, I ended up getting it from eBay. The link I used to buy is now inactive so you'll have to search.

It’s because it’s a non oem one. This design is all mounted correctly but the pipe is just low it seems. All the hangers are new and mounted all ok.

I don't, I screwed up recording it but I think I'll add one in the future. Its not a bad job and reasonably easy to connect up and rotate the sensor to get it set up right.

The link for the ones I bought are in the description they may be out of stock as they were cheap Chinese ones. amzn.to/3NS3Wkz

@@nogaragerequired thank you

I have a thin walled one that fitted perfectly. I think mine was an eBay purchase.

Caliper to fork(front) and caliper to rear mount, 32nm. The bolts for assembling the caliper halves is 30nm

That’s next on my shopping list l, anything to make brake bleeding easier.

About 3.5 ish litres. It varies a little but always around that.

The oil and coolant were mixing, suspect the water pump seal. The working hypothesis is they mixed and got flushed through the system as the bike was running so it's gone all around the cooling system. Radiator pipes, radiator, water pump all covered in similar milky goo

It can be an issue, I find winter can be bad for buying things too.

@@nogaragerequired Dont matter what you spend on it it will always surge...Uprated injectors...New coil and leads..Brisk plugs..Dont stop them surging...The wiring deacays...Hall sensor..Ignition wiring and wiring from the tank...Hyperpro springs need putting on and footrest lowering kit and gear and brake extensions...Ebay sells the same stuff motorworks do...They are heavy beasts waiting to damage us...Paid 2500 for it and spent 2 grand on it...Its a 2002 850 r with 19000 miles on it....Also change brake hoses to goodridge because the old ones will be shot...Knew i should have got a jap bike

Sorry I don’t have that either. Might be worth the Facebook groups they could help perhaps?

It was jammed due to dirt if I remember correctly.

I wondered the same thing when I read how it could be done. That’s why I thought showing it would help. There is enough wiggle room for you to access the top and it’ll make sense when you try.

It’s been a while and it’s holding up well, I’d say go for it!

It turned out to be the hall effect sensor in the end

Prepare to spend thousands on it

I find that to be process to be true on changing the final drive oil or gearbox oil. For those I always check the fill plug can be opened before draining but for the engine oil if you can’t get the filter off you can always pop in the fresh oil and continue to ride while you figure out why it’s not coming off.

Yes, from what I’ve found out and all the parts fiche diagrams. It looks like the GS top clamp is a direct bolt on which allows you to use the stock bars. I’ve not done the research on the S for the clip on style.

@@nogaragerequired Thank you for that info. I've been trying to find some that has done the conversion or that would even mention the possibility of it being done.

The hand guards were from my original bars.

I've been lucky and not experienced any issues from the ABS unit yet. The easiest way to check if it's the battery which is the one thing I do have. Is start the bike and if its doing the alternative light flashing, ride for five ten mins and then turn off and restart the bike. Then the lights for me flash together and behave normally. So I know I've got a battery that is on its way out. I have got this link bookmarked for when issues will arise on the ABS unit largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

Thanks... I'll get my battery checked.

This is a known issue with this bike. I've got one, and it's a crap shoot if the ABS is going to come on or not. From what I've been able to figure out, you need a practically brand new battery for the ABS system to come on reliably. My personal opinion is they have a voltage sense algorithm in there that is way too fussy about startup voltage. When you are starting, the motor draws a lot of current and drops the voltage dramatically. I think this goes below some pre-determined threshold.

​@@randyp3871yeah... I had the battery tested, it's 100%. Rode the other day, lights went off. Yesterday they stayed flashing. Thanks for your comment.