It’s been a while and it’s holding up well, I’d say go for it!

It turned out to be the hall effect sensor in the end

I find that to be process to be true on changing the final drive oil or gearbox oil. For those I always check the fill plug can be opened before draining but for the engine oil if you can’t get the filter off you can always pop in the fresh oil and continue to ride while you figure out why it’s not coming off.

Yes, from what I’ve found out and all the parts fiche diagrams. It looks like the GS top clamp is a direct bolt on which allows you to use the stock bars. I’ve not done the research on the S for the clip on style.

@@nogaragerequired Thank you for that info. I've been trying to find some that has done the conversion or that would even mention the possibility of it being done.

The hand guards were from my original bars.

I've been lucky and not experienced any issues from the ABS unit yet. The easiest way to check if it's the battery which is the one thing I do have. Is start the bike and if its doing the alternative light flashing, ride for five ten mins and then turn off and restart the bike. Then the lights for me flash together and behave normally. So I know I've got a battery that is on its way out. I have got this link bookmarked for when issues will arise on the ABS unit largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

Thanks... I'll get my battery checked.

It’s a 1995. It’ll be the same process for yours too.

98 has the upgraded gauge cluster I believe

This was the eBay item. There are also different colours and model variants depending on the year of your bike. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266724349957?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Ylv0vQ40Tta&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=fgutkegstd2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@nogaragerequired thanks for the speedy response! Your videos are a lifesaver as I’ve got the same bike and some similar qualms

The fender was a little bent from storage it’s evened out after being mounted for a while.

I was really hoping it was going to be the connection that needed some love but alas not in my case.

The manual says to do it on the side stand. I did mine on the paddock stand stand as I have one. it does mean though you do need to retest the slack once it's under its own weight. But the process is the same on the side stand.

@@nogaragerequired Much appreciated. Good luck riding!

I don’t think there are proper channels but I’ve been wearing my glasses fine with no pressure points.

@@nogaragerequired that's great to hear. I only recently (November 2023) started wearing glasses, so I usually forget to ask about that. Thanks for the quick answer, though!

I think two maroon bikes would be too much but then again that would mean I only need one touch up colour to use.

@@nogaragerequired dark maroon... I.e proper maroon.

Thanks the first few miles have been great.

Cheers for the feedback, I’ve recently picked up a better vacuum gauge and I’ll redo this. I also think the end setting wasn’t great as my fuel economy is now poor.

I hadn’t noticed that at all. Cheers

I reverted after trying them for a while too. I found it was ok for an hour or so, but I missed the leverage the bars gave and its slightly more relaxed rising position.

@@nogaragerequired Yea, its not so comfortable for Monster. Its looks really nice on Monster but that all. 😅

I really struggled but got there in the end. Glad to save someone else the time and pain I spent.

It looked to be a grounding/electrical issue. I cleaned up some grounds and replaced the battery.

Yes, lots of pumping and bleeding while the handlebars were in different positions and I also did some with it on the main stand and some when the bike was on the side stand to get the last bits out.

Thanks, there are spoked wheels that are for the r that are the same size as the rs wheels if you don’t want to upset the bikes geometry. I just couldn’t find sound at a price I liked and figured the gs and r share a subframe so the geometry change should be fine.

It is 29 years old so some of the original rubbers are getting quite perished.

It’s worked out well for me so far. I’m still not that many miles in to using them though.

I was really hoping it was jus the ground that failed. Unfortunately not the case for me.

Yep near as damn it. It varies depending on how hot the oil was and if it all flowed out really well. I think the manual specs 2.3l ish for a completely dry engine and around 1.9ish for no filter change too.

Funny that, I've sold the Versys as I don't commute any more and I use my Boxer R1100R for most fun days out. A real joy to work on that for most things.

​@@nogaragerequiredmy first big bike was a R1150R roadster.. That was a lovely bike.. But i made a mistake and sold it after 1 riding because i wasnt enough experienced for that bike.

According to the spec it was compatible, I did a full flush so wasn't too worried about the two coolants reacting badly.

Since the fork oil is just for lubricant ion not part of the damping I just topped it up to replace the little that dripped out. I think it was about 5ml I added back. I’ll have to check from the book what fork oil I used.

Motol 10w fork oil kits available on eBay I think it 470mls per side.

yes there are a difference in the disc but the callipers mount up perfectly and I believe are the same part across the models.

it’s just my jeans polishing it over time. I use muc-off to keep the bike clean and that includes the seat.

I believe it is supposed to be 27nm

I’ve not had that yet but I’ll keep an eye out. Thanks for the tip.