@@cyberwolf6667 Thanks. There are a lot of crappy imported tools out there.

@@TomBuskey Very true. Plus the cap iron sits so high above the edge of the blade. There are wings off the side of the cap iron that sit so high above the shelf they are supposed to rest on.

Thanks. The rough Iwasaki rasp don't handle end grain well. This fine one does work for me. Now maybe it is not technically pure end grain when I work the toe of a wooden golf club, so maybe 10 or 20° angled off of pure end grain. But for that, it works fine.

The Stanley Gage plane has a completely different mechanism to hold the blade where this block of metal is embedded within the block of wood. The metal forms part of the sole of the plane in addition to the wood that surrounds it. It is that metal part of the sole that makes for a perfect conversion to a trapping plane. If the bottom was all wood, the spinning dowel would wear out the wood iat the mouth of the blade and to its side in no time. The metal, especially along the side of the blade, prevents that wear from occurring. You could use a traditional wooden transitional plane (wood body and sole), but you would need to install metal runners in a rabbet along the length of the sole and maybe a metal plate in front of the blade. Hope that makes sense. www.jimbodetools.com/products/fine-pre-stanley-gage-tool-co-transitional-plane-94160

@@practicalclubmaker6152 thanks, we don't really see planes like the Gage or Chaplin in England, but I guess we got our own 👍

I guess you saw where I beheading with that joke!

@@jerryolson3408 In your situation, with that tool chest that gives the Studley tool chest a run for the money, a Shinto rasp in your chest would make the burial sites of Benjamin Seaton and Thomas Affleck rumble 😊

@@practicalclubmaker6152 🤣🤣

The iron heads were very robust and very heavy in the feather ball era, which was pre-1848. But the wooden heads were very delicate like they had distilled out of the club all of the unnecessary wood. The gutta percha balls were used from about 1848 to 1900.

...and the wheel is often reinvented.

@@practicalclubmaker6152 i'm all for the new innovation. i still have my first set of macgregor irons and persimmon woods from 1975 and i've thought about pulling them out to see how i would do with them now.

I haven't had good success with ash. It feels like a wet noodle even when making the shaft thicker. If you are having trouble finding hickory lumber, perhaps you could use the hickory from a discarded hickory golf club.

@@steveperry1344 You are exactly correct. Hybrids are the closest thing in design to these long nose clubs except that the old heads tend to be longer. Also, instead of a bulge or roll on the face, the face is concave. The concave face has something to do with the technique of making the club, but also, since the head is so long, perhaps clubmakers believed that the head would torque with the toe lagging behind.

@@JohnPublik Dykem: Pros: Works great. I use it for more complex layouts like creating scratch stocks or when grinding moulding planes. Cons: Toxic fumes, need to use on a well ventilated area, takes a minute or two or three to dry. I could be done or halfway done for the less complex sharpenings. I avoid applying in my tiny workshop because it is shared with my gas water heater and furnace. So for simple sharpening, a Sharpie is my go to. For complex, Dykem.

@@1pcfred Yes. Paul Sellers describes the technique you mention where the blade is fixed above the workbench and the sharpening stone is moved back and forth. My drawknife is curved, so not sure if that would work. Paul shows that method for a tanged traditional wooden spokeshave blade. On the other hand, I think that these Stanley/Record short blades are a good way to learn and introduce freehand sharpening with less dependency for jigs. Here is the link to Paul Sellers' method kzbin.info/www/bejne/sICth4uIhrGIhassi=NEbmYCZMCh4aRDIP

Also, Deneb Puchalski shows the side to side method for sharpening Lie Nielsen spokeshave blades. For that blade, since it is very thick, one can easily do that method. But these Stanley blades seem to be 1/3 the thickness and it is difficult to feel the bevel register on the stone. That is why I do the sighting down method. Deneb's video is here, about 5 minutes in for the sharpening. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJ_akIKrjK-FlcUsi=NTjlhhbosBulSq8V

@@practicalclubmaker6152 I always prefer perpendicular striations to the cutting edge. Even if I'm going to bring the edge up to a high polish anyways. Scratch patterns matter. Parallel scratches weaken the edge. But early in the process the scratches of course matter less. There's also drawing the burr to consider too. Sharpening is one of those simple things that tends to get complicated.

@@practicalclubmaker6152 I freehand sharpened for a very long time. I have an Eclipse style honing jig now. It's way better. What matters in the end is efficiency and results, not how you got there. To that end jigs are always superior to freehand anything. The arguments people try to make to promote freehand are weak. I am also a big proponent for hollow grinding too. I want sharp tools and I want them fast. That's all I want. There's no romance. The honeymoon is long over kiddo. I still do what I have to in order to make the relationship work. But we need to be practical now.

@@1pcfred Some of my sharpening methods are a variation of master carvers. When sharpening carving gouges, we go side to side. The important thing is to get a sharp intersection of the bevel edge with the flat side (or hollow if it is a gouge). The striations should not matter. One could counter that having a burr on the cutting edge creates micro fractures on the leading edge as the burr falls off. The bottom line is just getting sharp edge. If there is scientific proof that the theoretical residual scratch pattern holds up better in one direction than the other, I would consider converting for some applications, but if there is a method that gets you quickly to the desired result, that is the most important.

@@PeanutsDadForever Thanks

@@michaelsaxman Good tip on using the Shinto like a spokeshave. That would come in handy where the grain direction switches compared to using a traditional spokeshave. Kind of like using a toothing plane instead of a traditional plane.

The Iwasakis do clog with pine and other high resin woods. No issue with clogging with hardwoods. If there is a buildup with hardwoods, I tap end of the rasp on my bench and the shavings fall out. But for pine, I often need a card file/brush to clean it.

@@practicalclubmaker6152 and give them a clean out as soon as some clogging becomes evident ... it only takes a second or two. - don't wait till it clogs up solid.

@@wadepatton2433 Good point on the hoof rasps. Somebody else I know mentioned that so, thanks, I will have to give that a try. Any particular brand of farrier's rasp that you like?

@@practicalclubmaker6152 Nah, just whatever the local farm store has. They're a good bit cheaper than rasps, but only good for rough shaping. Reverse directions as needed for a "smoother" cut, they can get nasty when fighting the grain.

Absolutely ! I use a Heller Excel Legend and it eats wood at speed. Rasp on one side and a medium single cut file on the other. The cutting edge angles are excellent for wood Only con is that don't make a half round. ps I also use a Sandvik Oberg fine rasp - 25 years so far of regular use and it is a sharp as day one. Sandvik no longer make files and rasps but if you see a good secondhand one, grab it What ever you buy, look after it well and keep the blade in a sheath. Never use any of these on metals of any sort - you will quickly destroy them.

I think Farrier's rasps are great but the handles for Farrier's rasps are amazing - much more comfortable and workable in the hand. Try the Heller Red Tang if you want to start experimenting and make sure you buy a Farrier's rasp handle.

@@gregorymacneil2836 Hopefully your post will help someone else considering a farriers rasp. I have made all my tool handles for over 50 years and have long since found the shapes that fit my hand for different tools, so I'll pass on this one thanks

Ah now I get it. Saw this on the other post where I did use some wire like whipping wrapped around a rasp handle. I did have a puller with wire but it ended up cutting the thread when pulling more than the nylon.

@@ericerf6837 Iwasaki Liogier Auriou Shinto Narex (not recommended)

@@practicalclubmaker6152 Helps, thank you.

It's called a blacksmith post vise.

I record my videos in vertical format because Instagram is my primary site for posting videos. The videos on KZbin are just shared from that video. More than 80% of people use a smartphone to watch KZbin videos and other social media videos and many prefer the vertical format for viewing on their phones. If the video was posted in landscape mode on Instagram, the video doesn't rotate and it is therefore tiny on a phone. Then there would be some guy with a rant asking "why wouldn't I embrace the technology and film vertically."

@@practicalclubmaker6152 Thanks for that information. I rarely look at Instagram, and really do most of my internetting here on the PC. I wouldn't have known otherwise but also associate them with "shorts" and all that type of media (stuff I dodge mostly). Cheers!

Where I have bought maple, hard maple is only sugar maple. Black maple can be sold in places also as hard maple. But red maple, among others like silver, is considered a soft maple from every place I have dealt with.

That would be great of you made some clubs. It is a wonderful experience to go from tree (or board) to launching a shot with a club made by your own hands.

@@practicalclubmaker6152 I've done bicycles and guns, and odds and ends- why not a club? I'm SURE I can buy a good replica cheaper than I can make one, but that's never stopped me before! TIA

@@practicalclubmaker6152 Red maple is often used in gunstocks because it can have fantastic color and grain and also be dense enough for gunstock purposes. But also a gunstock is never used to strike a stationary object of any size. It's more about the proper weight of the finished gun than toughness. I've only worked with sugar maple and curly ash so far. Have two more started in walnut and cherry (which would never be my choice for a golf club, but make great handles for barrels and actions).

I don't know the answer to your question since I don't have a ball compression tester and have never been able to find information of a gutta percha ball's compression. Gutta percha balls sure sound hard when hit or bounced. Many long-nose style (pre-1885) clubs broke when playing gutta percha balls back in the day. But weighing the original gutta percha balls compared to the new gutta percha balls, which are made of synthetic GP, the new balls are a lot lighter. The originals weighed very close to modern balls. I believe that the combination of weight and hardness damages the clubs. There is much anecdotal evidence that limited flight range balls that have been remoulded to look like old balls have been wreaking havoc on clubs. So, in summary, my guess is that gutta percha balls are very hard, but since they are light, there is less chance of damage than a heavier hard range ball.

Thanks. I haven't noticed a difference in feel. I will need to hit a lot more balls to know if it makes a difference in yardage (while praying it doesn't crack). The pegs are are a very easy addition. You could even add some weights into the back of the hole and then plug it up with the dowel, although that would bring the COG up compared to a sole weight.

How’s Frankie doing? Still in one piece. I was thinking those inserts would help to create consistency across the face but not sure how it would affect side spin.

Thanks. I would guess that I know of your clubmaker friend since we have a small circle.

@@practicalclubmaker6152 It is an incredibly small circle, I'm sure. His first name is Barry.

@@billbris Ah, BK

Thanks. For some reason, the sound was delayed when filming the weights dropping on the wood. But that was the actual slow motion sound.

I just tried your suggestion and it seems to work also. I hold on to the club with my right hand on the backswing and start to let go at the transition. I guess anything to change the routine seems to work. A golf instructor told me that for his yips, he eats potato chips. I'm not sure how that routine works. Take a couple practice chips not from the bag but as a swing, then grab a chip from the bag, not the golf bag but the potato chip bag, start chewing the chip and then chip making sure to avoid the chili-dip!

Glad I could help

Thanks!

Nice pickup!