Are you offering for sale, a rebuild fuel pump kit for a 2009 R1200RT?

You didn't show the sock being removed and mine won't let go. Makes me wonder if there's something I'm missing.

Omg you demonstrated simplicity with the right angle valve chuck thank you!

Several great sealants (3M, Flex Seal, etc.) are avail;abnle in caulking tubes for easier application!

Thanks for the tutorial. I am wondering if you could tell us which is the reference of the 8 mm valve stems. Cheers.

Your video solved the mystery of removing the oem pump from the housing of my 07RT. After banging my head against the wall for several hours, and about to surrender to ordering an oem pump, I found your video. The video showed the trick of carefully nudging the filter base from the pump housing and saved the day (and my wallet). Thank you so very much.

Legendary video! Thank you for the effort! With all this knowledge mounting of any tire in the field should be piece of cake now. Removal of the Motoz Tractionator Adventure will be probably a little bit more difficult as it wouldn't be easy to fit the zip ties in. But in the worst case it could be substituted by little wooden or plastic blocks / spacers which would fit in between the tire bead and the rim, forcing the tire to the center of the rim.

i know someone who did this with a can of beer in junior high school. unfortunately he got sent home for being drunk and smelling like a beer factory.

Congratulations for the video, very explanatory and detailed. 33:28 I would like to know what product you used to rinse the filter Thank you

Thanks David, very informative and helpful video. I'm having difficulty with getting the 1st bead over! Hopefully your method works for me

Bought it, spent 4 hours trying to figure out how to use it and threw it in the bin.

I appreciate the knowledge you have provided myself with solutions to repairing a tire that’s not only flat but has come off the wheel. This has happened to me recently and although I repaired the tire I lacked the knowledge to reset the bead. Most of us have a ratchet set but don’t have the nylon sleeve needed to set the bead. I would gladly purchase the sleeves at a reasonable price. Thanks for your advice and expertise.

Nice video. So in conclution, the Guglatech filters are the worst?

So glad I watched this. Installed a 19inch front tyre manually with difficulty and it was a bit squashed at the last point not making any beed seal. After trying various tricks like taping up the gap and using a circumferencial rachet strap I thought I was going to have to remove it. Anyway I essentialy applied your techneque but used liquid brake cleaner, injected into the valve head (inner valve out) and some around the rim to wick it in. It lit up, but nothing, I gently kicked it and it popped onto the rim. So happy!

This is by far the very best vid on using zip ties to mount motorcycle tires. I have done it this way about 8 times now on street bike alloy wheels - huge fat rear 180/55's as well as 120/70 fronts - and saved $60 a pop which is what the local m/c shops are charging. Yesterday I had was mounting a 180/55-17 on a BMW rear alloy wheel. I forgot the golden rules shown here by BestRest and struggling, sweating, cursing finally gave up. I came inside and re-watched this video - went out this morning with a fresh mind-set and boom! Had that tired mounted within 5 minutes - using only 3 zip ties exactly as shown here. Not only does this gentleman show HOW but also explains the WHY - which once you understand the mechanics/physics it all comes together. I very seldom take the time to write comments here but had to chime in on this one! Secrets: Use the bead buddy or something to secure the bead on one side; plenty of lube inside and out; if its not going on fairly easily stop, rest, reconsider and double check.

Thank you for posting video. Before is spend $ and time a few questions to anyone who has done this; 1. does it work? 2. How much time/miles do you have on it? 3. Issues/problems that you ran into? 4. Would you consider adding a sealant in addition, as MTB riders do. Thinking Sahara moto tire sealant 5. Thanks!

I would expect that since the gugaltech and Hiflow plugged up, that there would be less air carrying dust. Thats the result that is shown here. Since the Uni and K&N are flowing more air that carries dust, of course the secondary filter is going to see more dust, it’s also seeing more oxygen too.

Best vid I have seen on this process. Thanks!

I use Harbor Freight 24" zip ties. Motoz Tractionator ADV on my r1200GSAW. I use 8 zip ties (they're DIRT cheap) and squeeze the whole tire. Both beads joined together all around. WD40 on the rim and tire bead, & the tire pops on super easy. This looks way more complicated. Notice how easy the first bead slides over the rim when mounted conventionally? Simply attach the second bead to the first and it follows right over. Been doing this for years now.

Hi mate are you still happy with it, any leak?

Jibber jabber for 5 mins

Couldn’t you just use flexseal?

Ty for the Video. I had massive Problem so put on my k60 Scout on my XT 660r,nothing worked until i found this Video. Ty

Thank you sir for going through all the trouble to make that video

thanks for the vidéo

Great work. Sincere and to the point.

The things stubborn old men will do before admitting a 250 makes more sense

Excellent tutorial, in many countries it is difficult to get that specific adhesive, but there is one that is common in all countries, and it is the windshield adhesive. I work as an auto body technician and I have verified the strong adhesion and how difficult it is to remove this adhesive. It is a polyurethane based glue and resists bending and flexing as the windshield is a structural part of a car, and withstands strong stresses in accidents. It seems to me to be an option for those of us who do not have access to that specific glue, I am going to try it soon on my motorcycle. Thanks for sharing !!

Thank you so much for this priceless video. I really appreciate the effort to post this in such a clear way with all details and even the alternate parts needed. I just order the parts and I'll be ready to get my partner back to roll. Best wishes for you and every gs rider! It's really a gift to have access to this help for free. Thanks again!

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

I want to do this to my Harley laced wheels but my concern is down the road the need to relace/replace a bent rim or even just needing to tighten laces/true the wheel. I've used my fair share of 3m 5200 in the jet ski world and that stuff is a nightmare to remove. The adhesive tape you used is similar to the gorilla branded stuff I've used, extremely sticky and very difficult to removed once adhered. Have you had to repair, true or replace a rim or tighten laces after performing this modification?

Hello. In the video, you said "attack fuel hose" 33:12 . Can you give us the link to buy?. In my city is impossible to find. Thanks

This was a well-made video that presented a different strategy for your consideration. As usual, traditions can have an iron-clad grip on the psyche. I regret to see so many closed minds among fellow motorcyclists.

Going to be doing this on my '23 crf110 thanks for the info!

thank you

I AM GRATEFUL FOR SOURCE OF DIFFERENT SIZED NYLON HOSES.. THE COMMON SINGLE SIZE HOSE WONT WORK ON MY g-650 WITHOUT BEING BRUTALIZED... LIKELY, MANY OF THESE BMW PUMPS HAVE DIFFERENT SIZE BARBS ON PUMP AND HOUSING NIPPLES ! Holee Crap...they managed to take the perfectly awful assembly used on the 650 singles, and make it even Worse ! Mostly because you babies whine if you don't have a fuel gauge ! How can anyone be holding an opaque Nylon fuel line in his hand and refer to it as "clear plastic" ? That non-elastic monstrosity is at the heart of what is wrong with all of these abortions. How is a non elastic material supposed to fit and hold on barbed hose bibs? ...especially when the size supplied is WRONG! All designed to force you to buy a $500 part...because they won't supply a couple of $1parts

Cyclops LED : ONE STAR ONLY. About their attitude : I had to rate my >>negative review<< 5 stars on Cyclops website to have it published. Less than 4 stars and the administrator will not publish your comment. I tried before so I can testify. This is just dishonest business!!! About their bulb : I had a Cyclops H4 Ultra on my CRF250L 2018. Very bright but died after one year only. The driver (black box) was much too hot, I couldn't even touch it. The bulb started to flicker (driver too hot??) then died shortly after. 90$ for only one year of use ?? I replaced it with a Novsight 12000 lumen LED bulb for a quarter of the price. 3 years since and zero problem. Driver is not even warm. Very bright and nice cutoff patterns same as Cyclops, and I have one extra bulb as spare (Novsight is sold by pair). Cyclops is not worth the price (90$) for ONE bulb. There is better options out there. Think before you spend $$$ with Cyclops. Novsight is a much cheaper/better alternative. Just my 10 cents.

Cyclops LED : ONE STAR ONLY. About their attitude : I had to rate my >>negative review<< 5 stars on Cyclops website to have it published. Less than 4 stars and the administrator will not publish your comment. I tried before so I can testify. This is just dishonest business!!! About their bulb : I had a Cyclops H4 Ultra on my CRF250L 2018. Very bright but died after one year only. The driver (black box) was much too hot, I couldn't even touch it. The bulb started to flicker (driver too hot??) then died shortly after. 90$ for only one year of use ?? I replaced it with a Novsight 12000 lumen LED bulb for a quarter of the price. 3 years since and zero problem. Driver is not even warm. Very bright and nice cutoff patterns same as Cyclops, and I have one extra bulb as spare (Novsight is sold by pair). Cyclops is not worth the price (90$) for ONE bulb. There is better options out there. Think before you spend $$$ with Cyclops. Novsight is a much cheaper/better alternative. Just my 10 cents.

Grat video, I am learning a lot. I already bougth the new pump assembly, $530.00 bucks. On minute 36:48,you recommend to blow air thru the filter. what air pressure are you using for this process?. I am thinking on use a plastic 'welder' epoxy to fix my leak, but i need to do invisible filter cleaning process. nee to make up my mind... not sure how much BMW dealers charge to replace the pump, do not even know if the clean the fuel tank as part of the procedure of replacing the pump.... sounds logic, but who knows

ey hello, around minute 11:50, where the invisible filter is located, Is there any risk to buildup pressure and crack the flange? (black cover on top of the withe body where the invisible filter is). I have a miro-fracture that starts on one of the mounting holes of the control module. i can send you photos about my failure

Way to scratch the crap out of the rim

A length of rope around the outside of the tyre.....knotted.....with a stick or metal bar to form a tourniquet.....twist till the tyre toucher the rim all around....then away you go. If using an airline.....leave out the valve core to let a fast flow of air flow. Once bears are set.....let air go and insert valve core....sorted.

How good does one have to be with knots?

Thank you for reminding me about the lubrication. This tire was a pain in the butt.

How do you balace this wheel?

Where can I buy the 9.5mm to 9.5mm hose? Quantum fuel sent me a 9.5 to 8mm instead :(

Many Many Thanks for this....This is exactly the video I need. My bike performance after 122,500 miles has degraded at higher revs and top speed. It now only does 118MPH instead of 134-6 MPH of old. It feels like an odd fuel starvation issue, so this is a rabbit hole I will try to go down after going down others (coils/plugs/shaft drive). This is a 10x of my mechanical skills and the bike (2004 R1200 GS - No. 179 off the production line !!) Is at a holiday home in the Canary Islands....

The main problem with tube tires is the hassle of changing a flat on the trail - whereas with tubeless you can just plug it, re-inflate, and go on your way. My current strategy is to go with my tube tires and bring along a "tube approved" sealant (like Sahara, Ride-On, or Slime). If I get a flat I'll inject the sealant, re-inflate, and this should quickly get me back on the road. Do you think this is a good approach?

After completing this conversion, can you still mount a tubed tire or must you use a tubeless? I would think a tubed tire would still work just fine as you note that you may still use a tube if the tire fails to seal/bead-out upon refilling with air.

Can you tell me the brand od tape you used ?