Converting a Tubed Motorcycle Rim to a Tubeless Rim

[@MyllekeBas]

Well, I ordered all the stuff and am doing the process myself. The only thing is, it takes way more time then 24 hours to apply all of the sealant, because it takes ages to dry. If you do too many holes at once, it starts dripping down (like David said in the video). After 48 hours, it has completely hardened out. I filled 4 holes, waited 12 hours and did another 4. It took me a few days, but the result is great. I'm waiting to put the tape on now and still waiting for the stem I ordered. I'm pretty curious about the result, but I am confident it will be just great. Thank you guys! Great video! Little update: The result is awesome!!! Thanks a lot!!!

[@damonoriente736]

Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is one of the clearest, most articulate and informative instructional videos I've seen. I'm about to get a lightly used F800GS and the tubeless conversion is one of my main concerns. This video, and the helpful comments, are a great contribution to the motorcycle community. 12 thumbs up!

[@KingPassa96]

This is one hell of a comment 👍

[@dariofolmer7767]

Excellent tutorial, in many countries it is difficult to get that specific adhesive, but there is one that is common in all countries, and it is the windshield adhesive. I work as an auto body technician and I have verified the strong adhesion and how difficult it is to remove this adhesive. It is a polyurethane based glue and resists bending and flexing as the windshield is a structural part of a car, and withstands strong stresses in accidents. It seems to me to be an option for those of us who do not have access to that specific glue, I am going to try it soon on my motorcycle. Thanks for sharing !!

[@dirkstuff]

Watched this tutorial to help with my first tubeless set up, and they’re doing great. Came back again as I make another set for my sidecar. Thanks, David!

[@stevetdesigns]

Did you do it on a dirt bike? Do you use any type of liquid sealant? Will it work with any tire? Thanks!

[@pauldavison2116]

Thank you very much for your fantastic video. You just saved me a ton of money as I was looking at $2000 + shipping + duties each for two wheel conversions.

[@chrismorris5531]

I've been researching going tubeless on my F800GS and this video makes the choice easy. When it's time for a new tires this will be happening first. Much thanks for the fantastic demonstration, I have no doubt this information will save time and the huge pain in the ass of a tube repair in the future.

[@Sertao2013]

From what I have read about doing it this way you can still use a tube in the tire . The tubeless setup is just a backup . There is no reason not to do is on any tubed tire . You just have to drill a second hole for the air stem you added in the video . When you go to put the tube stem into the rim you have to use a o-ring on both sides of the rim so you put your nut on first then the o-ring then put the stem through the rim , put another o-ring on the other side and then your 2 lock nuts. This keeps air from being forced out so when the tube goes flat and you use the tubeless stem to fill up the tire the air won't leak out around the tube stem threads . Being able to add air on the outside of the tube is a good back up until you can get time to replace the tube at home or have a shop do it . The main problem with straight tubeless tires is a cut on the side wall that is not repairable . Without a tube in your tool box you are in big trouble . On the other hand if you take the tire off you can stick a tube in it and be able to keep riding till you can get home or to a shop to buy a new tire . Either way you should always keep a tube with you . Watch this video at 21:49 and look at where the puncture was at on the tubeless tire . If they wouldn't have had people following them around near by with extra parts and tires she would have been in bad trouble you can see no one had a tube to put in there to get her going again . Carrying a tube to fit your tubeless tire is the only way to go . kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5Xce4yHaJyfetU . One more thing people should know You can now buy whats called a TUbliss What this does is the small tube under the outer batter seals of any air from getting out of the rim and it expanse out and puts pressure against the tire to hold it to the rims for a good seal with low pressure . Watch this video He shows how it works . This is the best way to go tubeless . kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3XaZZKMqN2BbKM

[@bestrestproducts648]

Yes your ideas have merit. But instead of drilling a second hole for the valve stem, consider this idea: convert the rim as shown in the video, but instead of installing a tubeless valve stem, use the stem from your tube and put it thru the original hole. Seal that hole so there's no air leakage. Once the tube is inflated you'll have a hybrid tire that's both "tubeless" and "tubed". This system is useful running low pressures and for narrow front tires which can roll on the rim. Should you get a puncture you can repair the tire using a tubeless repair kit. No need to deal with the punctured tube until you get home. I've used this system with good results.

[@Sertao2013]

@@bestrestproducts648 As I was reading your comment above once the tire is prepped as you show in the video and you use a tube inside there is really no need to add a second stem because after you plug the hole in the tire ,when you put air in the tube stem it will come out the hole in the tube and fill up the out side of the tube . You would still need to add the o-rings on both sides of the tube stem to get a good seal but it would save drilling a extra hole in the rim to add the stem like you added . If you have air in the tube you're not going to have room for air on the outside anyways so you're never going to need to add air through the 2nd stem . I was going by what I had read and never thought why they added the 2nd stem . The air will pass right through the hole in the tube . Maybe the reason for the 2nd stem is for faster filling of the tire . With a small nail hole in the tube it might take a long time to fill the tire . Thats the only thing I can think of that you would want the 2nd stem if your going to put a tube in . I think I'm going to keep the tube in and add the o-rings on both sides and seal up the rim like you show and just use the tube stem the fill up the tire once there is a puncher and see how that works . I should be able to get out of the woods with the dual air system without having to take off the tire and thats the main thing . I wonder if it would hurt anything to add a thin layer of clear 100 % silicone around the bead of the tire and the rim just before you put the tire on before it starts to set up . Once the tire is on the rim you can add air inside the tube to help seal the tire and rim together . If you going tubeless just let the silicone set up then add air .

[@motomoran8173]

Hey David - awesome video. I used your exact method and it is perfection! I had to replace the wheel because of rust. I got the bike from my buddy. I went online and there was only 2 used 4 sale one a little better than the other and the wheels came with a tire on it. I'm basically new to working on my own bike. Im 62yrs. It's my 4th bike but 20yrs since my last and I didnt do very much of my own maintenance on my previous. So I bought it and behold there was a tube in it! I found this video and what a lifesaver. I also watched your video on changing a tire and bought your lube and it worked great. I wasnt nearly as good and quick at changing as you but the lube made a huge difference. This is my first time commenting on any video about anything on KZbin but it was a life saver so thank you very much.

[@bestrestproducts648]

Tony - thanks for the kind comments. I'm pleased to know that I've helped a fellow rider.

[@lgujuban2984]

Nahaupup ak.

[@ArkajyotiChoudhury]

how long did it last?

[@hitone4319]

Thank You David! This is first rate video tutorial, one of the best I have seen. Incidentaly one of my first conversion is going to be a chinese bike as my K100 is tubeless ....

[@brucesyvertsen2147]

I have used this method to convert 2 bikes to tubeless and repair a custom wheel where the tubeless system had decayed and was leaking. Absolutely fantastic way of dealing with the tube issue. No leaks at all. Used exactly the materials used here. Follow the instructions here for great results.

[@MindBodySoulOk]

me too! So far so good!

[@franklinpacheco5554]

Where did you find the 8mm valve stem ??

[@enfield7123]

I would be concerned that it would fail whilst riding . Is this method really safe if so would give it a go

[@brucesyvertsen2147]

@@enfield7123 I have never had a failure. If one did fail, it would be no worse than a tube tire going flat. Proper preparation is the key.

[@brucesyvertsen2147]

@@franklinpacheco5554 I just purchased online.

[@jimpennjr]

Thanks for doing this video. I did this for my spoked wheels off my 2005 Kawaski Vulcan 1500 and it worked like a dream. Both front and rear are holding air nicely. If I could post pics in this comment, I would. It is time consuming, but results are worth it. Thanks again

[@Whiskeyagogo519]

I've got a vulcan 900 I'd like to do the same

[@abubakarhussein5197]

do you often tighten the spokes?

[@ArkajyotiChoudhury]

how is it holding up?

[@jimpennjr]

Holding up great.

[@northeastanglerstv1632]

Going to be doing this on my '23 crf110 thanks for the info!

[@emfl4437]

Thanks for sharing, i am looking into converting to a tubeless system. As a follow-up, I did this conversion and it has held up perfectly. Cheers!

[@ankitanand676]

Is there any flaws in 2 years??……like problem in spoke alignment or so

[@napieraustin]

Yeah how is it holding up now? Just got stranded other night a hr from home. Brand new tire. Done with tubes

[@emfl4437]

@@napieraustin still going strong after 10k miles. No issues. Take your time, preparation is the key. Make sure the rim is good and clean. Then it is just patience and care while applying the sealant and tape

[@ankitanand676]

@@emfl4437 and what about spoke alignment if it is all covered, did u ever aligned ur spokes after that??

[@emfl4437]

@@ankitanand676 I did this mod on a '83 Suzuki 650 Tempter road, I have not encountered any issues with the spoke alignment. My wheels were in alignment prior to this installation. I could see the sealant in the spokes moving during an alignment. However you could go through and redo this if a leak occurred. It would be a pain, but it would be doable.

[@donalfredisaac]

Great detailed explanation thank you. By the way English is not my native language and my hearing isn´t that good, but I heard and understood every single word you said so in case you didn´t know you could also be an excellent English teacher or work for NatGeo, have a nice day.

[@lloydwelborn4064]

Boy Howdy! Thank you. I am going to give this a try. So tired of fixing tubed tire flats.

[@jamesfairmind2247]

What happens when you tighten the spokes and the silicon is ripped away from the spoke nipple? On an adventure bike you should be adjusting your spokes reguarly.

[@bestrestproducts648]

The reason you need to adjust spokes is that they loosen due to stress and vibration, because the nipple itself turns, so the spoke gets loose. The spokes themselves don't stretch or shrink, but occasionally a stick will damage a spoke and it'll need to be replaced. . Before you convert your rim you need to check all spokes for tightness, and true the wheel if needed. That way you start with a good rim and all the spokes are good. When you apply the sealant, it will discourage the nipple from turning, so the chances that your spokes will loosen is diminished. I won't claim they'll never loosen, but none of my spokes have loosened since I did the conversion. . Should a spoke need replacing, or a spoke needs considerable tightening, you'll need to demount the tire, cut the sealant, and re-seal. You might get away with tightening the spoke without removing the tire, because the tape acts as a secondary airtight layer. . In the 4 years since I posted this video, I've never heard from anybody that complained about loose spokes after the conversion.

[@donwolfjr1]

I don't know if I'm going to do this process to my 2003 Vulcan 1500 wheels yet but this video is VERY VERY good!!! Thank you!!! DonW., OHIO

[@mhilde7744]

Sir, ....you cant retire! Whose gonna show this to us, if you're gone? Thank you for your time spent as one of the great ambassadors if our sport!

[@bestrestproducts648]

Thanks for those kind comments. My pending retirement doesn't mean I will stop making videos, writing articles, or doing things that promote the support. It just means I'll be freed from the daily chores and distractions of running BestRest Products.

[@RubiKonAdventures]

Just did this. Thanks for the detailed instructions much appreciated. I ordered the 90 degree valve stems noted at the end. They are defective. I tested my wheel in my battub as I was puzzled why pressure was dropping. In my case the right angle valve stem was leaking at the seam of the valve shoulder. Fortunately, I have 2 rims, the other one I did with a standard stem. So far so good. Btw, I used a window screen roller in lieu of the stitcher tool shown. It's plastic, but did the job well.. They are about 98 cents or so at home depot. I happen to find one in my tool box from some home maintenance I did this past summer. Thanks, ~GrizzLee

[@blueknyght923]

I won't bring the wheel to the bathtub, and horrify my wife. Just stay in the garage and repressurize the tire. Then sponge generously soap water (water emulsified with any cheap detergent), on your entire wheel. Wherever soap bubbles formed, that's where the leak is. It is so visible you won't miss an escaping air. Just a tip there.

[@jonathonschram3429]

I'm going to do this on all my dual sport wheels! I was riding with some buddies the other day and picked up a nail...ended up pulling and patching the tube 3 times before I found another Itty bitty staple in the sidewall! Threw in my spare tube and picked up a piece of baling wire not 30 minutes later! Ruined my whole trip as I spent more time fixing flats then I did riding. I run mousse in my dirt bikes, but dual sports are all going tubeless after that disaster. Thanks man!

[@LikeYeahImSure]

Great video. Thank you! Just make sure that the protective strip put in place at the end of the video stays in place. If it moves, it will cover the air hole. I've seen that happen. In that case, the strip wasn't as flexible and did not fit tightly like a rubber band.

[@tommyNix4098]

The main problem with tube tires is the hassle of changing a flat on the trail - whereas with tubeless you can just plug it, re-inflate, and go on your way. My current strategy is to go with my tube tires and bring along a "tube approved" sealant (like Sahara, Ride-On, or Slime). If I get a flat I'll inject the sealant, re-inflate, and this should quickly get me back on the road. Do you think this is a good approach?

[@gerrycout7845]

That’s a good idea. I never thought of that. I never tried it either so I don’t know how good it would work. I have always been told to avoid the self repair fluids on tubeless high speed tire cause they can affect balancing badly and maybe even ruin your tire. But on a tube type tire like my CRF, your not usually going as fast as with my CBR, plus your not injecting the product directly in the tire itself and balancing on my CRF is a nine issue. Thanks for making me think of that one. 👍🏼

[@tommyNix4098]

@@gerrycout7845 Good points. Others have mentioned that tube tires can sometimes fail by tearing, and that the sealant would not likely work properly on a torn tube. But for a punctured tube - especially a small puncture that leaks slowly, there's a good chance it would work. Sahara and Ride-on both say their products work with tube tires.

[@bestrestproducts648]

Great idea.... but... often tubes suffer from more than just one puncture, and often they don't just get one hole (there's the hole going in and the nail can puncture the other side of the tube), and often they get torn by the time the puncture is discovered. Sealant won't solve a torn tube, and sealant won't seal a nail hold that's against the rim (because the sealant is concentrated on the OUTER area of the tire, not on the area where the tube is closest to the rim).

[@tommyNix4098]

@@bestrestproducts648 Yes, that's the problem with sealants in tube tires. I'm not properly equipped to replace a tube on the trail, so if sealant won't fix it I'll just have to limp home on what I have. But I think sealant may be worth a try at any rate!

[@brockjohnson4116]

I have removed the valve stem and added slime and used a cordless airpump in the past with great results to get me home- I was contemplating doing this (and just here looking at parts to order), BUT, doing the slime and replacing a tube which is cheap when back home is easy enough and plus I will still be able to true the rim adjusting the spokes without doing this- I will leave tube in after all (If doing I would probably go 3m 4200 sealant) Great helpful video for people wanting to do this

[@scothunter3221]

I've used tons of 5200 sealant while living on a boat. In the marine world it's generally thought of as a permanent sealant and can be a bugger to remove. I''d probably use a less permanent sealant on the valve stem, though an excellent product for sealing the nipples. It also seems to end up everywhere in addition to where you want it. WD40 is an excellent solvent for cleaning tools, hands, etc. but be careful not to use it on the rim until the nipples are sealed. Also, once cured nothing is going to dissolve the 5200. I just sealed my rims a few weeks ago using essentially the same process and it works quite well. I found the 2" tape worked well for both front and rear. I've used other approaches in the past but they were less effective. One tip, if you find a small leak through one of the spokes, deflate the tire and apply some penetrating thread locker to the guilty spoke from the outside (not removing the tire.). Let it cure and reinflate tire. Will probably do the trick. A warning, don't try and use household silicon and be sure to allow the sealant to fully cure. I didn't and the pressure forced virtually invisible holes out through the nipples. Couldn't use more silicon to seal it as silicon won't adhere to silicone. Had to wire wheel it all off and start over. Lessons learned.

[@scothunter3221]

Should have added a great video and the best I've seen on sealing rims.

[@bestrestinfo5171]

Great tips Scot. I'm learning too...

[@recharging2002]

Do you have a less permanent sealant to recommend?

[@scothunter3221]

Any of the automotive silicon sealants should work well for sealing the valve. Last time I just used a Prematex Silicone Adhesive Sealant because I had some on the shelf. Just be sure to let it cure fully before pressuring up.

[@unmoddedgamer9589]

why would you use a less permanent sealant on a rim that you are permanently sealing please help me make sense of that?

[@chrisrynston8749]

Excellent tutorial. Thanks David. I will do this on my Africa Twin 👍

[@ssbbmoto]

I also take a stretchy vinyl tape and do several tight wraps stretching the tape which puts a ton of pressure on the sealing tape. Also ensures the sealing tape won’t unwrap at high speeds. Another option is to mount a tube and inflate at a fairly high pressure let it sit over night and that really pushes the sealing tape into the rim. Then remove tube, add a little sealant and you have a solid reliable tubeless setup as good as any professional job

[@snbi3910]

ssbbmoto OR... you can use the inner tube liner to put over the tape like he did at the end of the video.

[@JesterTop]

No problems at all with my darkside conversion on my Suzuki C50. Gonna do it to my front tire as well here soon.

[@kitkimbrough9441]

I'm using flex seal spray, taping the sides, and couple light coats will be a more even seal, and easier to balance!!...flex seal has a tape seal also, that seems it might be a little thick, but should work great!!

[@rickscheiba1338]

Can you tell me the brand od tape you used ?

[@bestrestproducts648]

3M tape. All supplies are listed at the END of the video

[@RubiKonAdventures]

Dave, Thanks for the comprehensive video. Doing my G650GS Seratao over the holiday break. Thanks for the public service and community support. ~ GrizzLee

[@joaomunoz183]

Thanks for the tutorial. I am wondering if you could tell us which is the reference of the 8 mm valve stems. Cheers.

[@carlosaircraftmechxnic2819]

I’ve seen this video several times before today. I just heard the Adventure Rider Radio podcast with you in it and I was slowly connecting the dots. I’ll look into the pump!

[@blessedbackpacker222]

you have explained it so well. one day I would like to grow old and teach like you.

[@HidalgoRides]

Lol

[@bobwardley1606]

Hi, I followed your conversion process and it worked a treat. The only addition I would make (and will make when I modify the rear wheel) is to put some tape on the inner-tube liner so it doesn`t move inside the tire, which is what I think happened when I had the tire put back on, and it covered the valve hole on the inside of the wheel. I could put air in but air couldn`t come out, ie I couldn`t check the air pressure. I had to drill a hole in the liner with a fine wood drill. I`ll keep checking and let you know what happens. Your KZbin is sound though..... thankyou very much! BTW I converted an Africa Twin. I`ll be putting a car tire on the rear wheel pretty soon. I had one on my FJR for 4 years and put 46,000kms on it before I sold it, and I think it`s good for another 46,000kms.

[@bestrestproducts648]

I agree. Tape that band in place. Or better yet don't use that band at all. My buddy had the same problem you did, we'r removed the band and all is fine. To late to change the video now.

[@JaydubyaX]

Great video, and thanks for your time and advice when I called in earlier . 👍🏾

[@DIEGOGONZALEZ-np9ed]

how do you insure the wheel gets the right balance once at high speeds?? ive heard stories that the tape and sealant throw tires off balance??

[@bestrestproducts648]

If I had a nickel for every story ... SMH LOL. First let me ask you how you balanced your tire when it had a tube inside? 1.) The weight of the sealant is pretty consistent at every spoke nipple, at least when I did my rims. 2.) The weight of the tape is consistent, except where you overlap at the finish, but the weight of that overlap is minimal, probably less than a couple grams. 3.) If you were to balance your rim BEFORE you put any tape or sealant on the rim, you'd probably find that the RIM itself is out of balance. Mine were, one of them by almost 6 grams. Rims ain't balanced, trust me on this. 4.) Once you mount the tire on the rim, there's no guarantee that aligning the red dot on the sidewall of the tire with stem will "balance" anything. Tires don't come from the factory perfectly balanced, trust me on this. 5.) After you convert and mount your tire, you can balance a wheel/tire assembly using a tire machine at a shop, or a static balancer at home. 6.) Personally I use DynaBeads because they do a great job and the results were better than what I got using a static balancer (I have one, so I know what I'm talking about). Bottom line - converting to a tubeless design will have no more affect on tire balance, than having a TUBE inside the tire.

[@sammyperez7973]

Thank you sir for going through all the trouble to make that video

[@mojomojo5779]

For added measure, after you wrap the inner tube strap over the spokes at the middle of the rim, then you mount your tire. After mounting the tire, wrap an innertube on each side of the rim.about 2-3 inches. One half inside the tire, and one half outside the tire and over the rim.. Inflate the tire, take a razor blade and cut off the excess inner tube between the tire and rim. I saw that trick on KZbin.

[@TheSJPhil]

Great instructional video. Thank you. I have 2 questions, though, if you don't mind. 1) Can you address wheel truing issues and remedies, and 2) how does this affect wheel balance?

[@HidalgoRides]

Wheel should be trued before conversion, runout corrected, and spokes should be tight. Once converted you'll have very little chance the spokes will ever loosen or tighten because the nipple head will be prevented from rotating. you should ever need to true the wheel in the future, you'll need to cut tape and sealant. My best guess is you'll sell or wear out the bike before you ever need to mess with your spokes again. . As for wheel balancing, no issues whatsoever.

[@russellsmith9327]

In case it was not posted below. If you are doing the conversion, I believe that you will not want to add tire sealant (like Ride On, Slime, etc.) to the tire. After about after a month, rear tire began leaking. I pulled the tire from the wheel. The adhesive tape had come loose taking the marine adhesive sealant (over the spokes) with it. I think that the adhesive tape lost its adhesive property after the tire sealant came in contact with it. I went back with a tube. I was using the tire sealant for extra puncture protection and to balance wheel.

[@bestrestproducts648]

So... you ended up unintentionally sabotaging your project by adding a liquid sealant. There was no reason for that sealant. You could've balanced the tire with wheel weights or dynabeads. I've never been a fan of liquid sealants.

[@russellsmith9327]

@@bestrestproducts648 thank you for your reply. Yes, I messed up. My bad. If I would have known the liquid sealant would have affected adhesive tape, I would not have used tire sealant. Hopefully, someone can learn from my mistake. Enjoyed the video.

[@mono6906]

Hello, many thanks for sharing your experience, you use the tape 3M 4411, the thicker reference 3M 4412 is not better ?

[@bestrestproducts648]

@@mono6906 I don't know.

[@randyshrimplin9438]

So, great video and I like the method but have a question please. Why the tape? I have used tubes and tubes of 5200 on boats and my experience is that once it cure it is sealed and done for life. So why bother with the tape that can possibly come off and cause balance issues?

[@bestrestproducts648]

I've never heard of the tape coming off, ever. As for the 5200 sealant, yes it's probably good enough by itself. The tape is icing on the cake and adds a second level of protection against leaks.

[@JohnJez]

Hi there, superb video! One question, can the spokes still be adjusted after the tubeless conversation has been done? Thanks, John.

[@osimnod]

After completing this conversion, can you still mount a tubed tire or must you use a tubeless? I would think a tubed tire would still work just fine as you note that you may still use a tube if the tire fails to seal/bead-out upon refilling with air.

[@justmyself1000]

What about when one tightens, loosens or have to replace a spoke? I would think the tightening/loosening will break the seal?

[@bestrestproducts648]

Although spokes "can" stretch under extreme force, they most commonly loosen or tighten because the nipple head spins in the rim. Slowly it can loosen or tighten due to the stresses on the rim. Or it will loosen because you're bent the rim. That's a whole other issue. . When you convert the rim from tubed to tubeless, you should first tune the spokes and loosen/tighten as needed. Once you convert the rim the sealant locks the head and prevents it from spinning, so there's very little chance that spokes will loosen or tighten thereafter. Should you damage your spokes (stick goes in the spokes, bent rim, etc.) and the spokes need replaced, you'll need to remove the tire, cut the sealant, replace the bad spoke and nipple head, then reseal. . In all the years I've ridden dirt bikes with tubed rims, I've seldom had spokes loosen or tighten on their own. That doesn't mean I don't check them by dinging them with a wrench and listen for the telltale sound that tells me the spoke is tight. But on the bikes I've converted to tubeless, not a single spoke has had a problem. . If loose spokes are your Kryptonite and want to be able to quickly swap them out, then stick with tubed tires.

[@Docv400]

Anyone thinking of doing this, make sure you use the Sealant listed. Some Silicone based RTV Sealants can cause corrosion on certain Metals.

[@bransro]

thanks for this video, very helpfull, but I couldn't find the tubeless valve stem here (Thailand), so I took 2 old inner tubes and removed the plastic around the valve (cleaning with the steel brush), that looks exactly the same as the new ones :-) , the sealant was available so my rims are okay now

[@HidalgoRides]

Very creative solution. Thumbs up!

[@thegreatoutthere]

Several great sealants (3M, Flex Seal, etc.) are avail;abnle in caulking tubes for easier application!

[@kanchiraja]

Thanks for your patience on teaching all of us sir.

[@armandojrdelvalle4291]

Rim is better than cast wheel..for sure..and secured!..but i suggest TIG weld is much secured

[@marekmarko2274]

Thank you David, finely I found solution for my Harley dyna. I wanted buy spoke rims only for reason of the flat tire somewhere 100km from house but with your solution and the fix tire kit and a little pump is gonna be all solved.

[@asdrubalmejias4169]

Hi man: I have a question, What kind of valve do you used for your Harley, a mean the size?? Tks

[@bigbird2523]

Thanks for very informative video, what i really concern is will the tape able to handle under hot temperature and how long it will be last.

[@bestrestproducts648]

From my own experience, after 4 years of riding a heavily loaded bike, in temps up to 106 degrees, at 80-90 miles an hour, there's been no issues. And after this video has been viewed more than 200,000 times, and installed on tens of thousands of bikes, there's been no negative reports or heat failures.

[@muddyboots-mac]

Nice content sir, easy to understand. How about the rim lock holes how are you going to cover it? Thanks

[@Williamjustbuilds]

I'm just curious why you wouldn't cut the valve stem off of an Old Rip Torn up tube and put it on your bike

[@HidalgoRides]

You could, I suppose.

[@davidspin5353]

Good video, not bad if you want to save cash and have the time to let the 5200 cure, I bought the kit with the nipple covers.

[@sumosamurai5420]

Can you do this with a rim lock dirt bike tire?

[@napadaanlng69]

Thank you for this. I had tried a tubeless tires with off roading with my motorcycle and its okay at first but with unpredictability during off roads the air seal got loose and I wouldn't want to experience that again. Now I rather have tube type tires for off roads use.

[@paulalbares643]

Dave I have one concern before doing this to my rear wheel. What happens if you need to tighten or replace a spoke after you have sealed everything?

[@bestrestproducts648]

Remove the tire from the rim. Use a razor to cut away the tape and sealant. Replace spoke or tighten. Re-seal with sealant. Put a 4" piece of tape over the hole. Consider this - once the original sealant is in place, the nipple can't rotate, so the spoke won't loosen. The only way you'll get a "loose spoke" is if you dent your rim. Of all the thousands of people who have done this conversion, NONE have had an issue with loose spokes. So I think you're creating a Boogie Man that doesn't exist.

[@zx12r11]

I had a flat on my cruiser it was a nightmare 😫 in the middle of nowhere, im fixing to do this to my spoke rims. i dont mine still run with a tube on it if i get a flat a well 😅 5 min patch it on the field replace the tube one i get a chance 😅

[@Liberty4Ever]

I've wondered if this was possible or practical but never searched to see if others had converted a tubed rim into a spoked tubeless rim. I figured I'd randomly encounter it without a specific search, and thank the KZbin algorithm god, I did! Tubeless wheels was a big selling feature when I bought my bike. If I ever buy a used G650GS, the first time I change the tires, I'll convert the rims to tubeless. The method I've been contemplating would ScothBrite the inside of the rim and clean with isopropyl alcohol, then push a foam earplug into the valve stem hole. Make a simple fixture to spin the rim at approximately 10 RPM. I could 3D print conical hub pieces to make a spindle with a pulley that I can turn with a DC gear motor that I have. As the rim slowly spins, I'd pour 3D printer resin onto the center of the rim to create a thin coating and cure it with a UV lamp or sunlight. The resin is a UV curing polyurethane that has a viscosity similar to 40W oil that cures to a durometer similar to a hockey puck. Slowly spinning the rim prevents the resin from dripping off the rim or pooling as it cures. Drill out the ear plug, install the valve stem, and the rim is now tubeless. If the rim is damaged to prevent a bead or the tubeless tire is slashed preventing a bacon strip from plugging it, pull out the valve stem and reinstall the tube, so you pretty much have the best of the tubed and tubeless tire setups.

[@bestrestproducts648]

Good on you for figuring out your own method. I don't know the properties of 3D printer resin so I can't say if it's suitable for this application. If it's rigid then it might not be the best choice. Those nipples will have some flex and wiggle, which the 3M adhesive can easily handle. If the resin is rigid it would probably crack over time and air would escape.

[@Steveman61]

What if you have to true the wheel? Will the sealant come off when tensioning the spokes?

[@bestrestproducts648]

True the wheel BEFORE you begin this process. Tighten any loose spokes. Start with a good wheel. Once the sealant is in place you won't be able to turn the spokes without breaking the sealant.

[@Horsemanguy]

I have a virago 535 and im interested to know how are called thise 3 products for a complet job done.I mean the white glue,the sticky tape and finelly the curved velve.Thank you so much

[@bestrestproducts648]

At the end of the video is a list of the products and suppliers. I don't sell them or have any financial interest.

[@snoopypeanuts9160]

Wow... what if you need tightening the spoke AFTER the process. Is it needed to repeat everything from the beginning ?

[@bestrestproducts648]

Read the threads below. Question has been asked and answered a dozen times.

[@donalfredisaac]

Hello Mr. Petersen the conversion to tubeless rim made 11,000 miles ago still in perfect condition, no trouble at all, so good that I´m going to do it on my DR650 rear tire, the Harley came with a side valve stem so I didn´t have to do anything to it, at 22:45 in your video you mention you already cut the hole, was this done with a knife? Thanks in advance for your reply.

[@bestrestproducts648]

I used a razor knife to cut the tape that covers up the valve stem hole.

[@donalfredisaac]

@@bestrestproducts648 Thanks for your reply Mr. Petersen.

[@mfranquemont1884]

Thank you for posting video. Before is spend $ and time a few questions to anyone who has done this; 1. does it work? 2. How much time/miles do you have on it? 3. Issues/problems that you ran into? 4. Would you consider adding a sealant in addition, as MTB riders do. Thinking Sahara moto tire sealant 5. Thanks!

[@HidalgoRides]

Yes it works. Over 5 years on my bike, 50k miles. No problems, no issues. No reason for any sealant. Over 1/4 million views on this video, tens of thousands of riders have converted, I haven't heard of any failures or issues.

[@justincase3230]

Can I do this with an alloy one piece scooter wheel? Changing the rear one is a pain.

[@HidalgoRides]

If you have an alloy 1 piece rim then you probably already have tubeless tires. Is there an inner tube?

[@ludovico6252]

Hello, Thank you for the video! I plan to tubless a rim but the way of the spoke is very round smaller radius tha yours, do you have a stem valve to advise me ? Best regards

[@bestrestproducts648]

No sorry don't sell valve stems or have advice on where to get them. Do a web search

[@ludovico6252]

@@bestrestproducts648 thank you that's i tried to do. I think i should go on a thick rubber stem valve.

[@geoffweekes5381]

Very precise and imfomative , we would have to be very careful , thats for sure

[@napieraustin]

Flex tape would probably work good. Also how is this holding up

[@bestrestproducts648]

No flex tape probably wouldn't work. It'll fix your toilet bowl, repair your reading glasses, and fix the broken handle on your coffee pot... but... it's a home repair product and doesn't have the oomph that the professional grade 3M product has. As for holding up? Perfect. I've probably gotten over 1,000 testimonials from other riders who have made the conversion and there was not a single report of any failure.

[@East_TX_LCR]

Never had spoke wheels before. On a new wheel, since it needs to be broke in, is it okay to convert right away and tighten up as needed, or should I wait till they seem to hold before attempting it?

[@HidalgoRides]

New wheels should leave the factory true and round. The idea that they need to "break in" seems counter-intuitive. None of the spokes should tighten or loosen if the factory did their job. You can tap each spoke to see if they have the same sound. Dull tone means loose, high tone means tight. Adjust as needed. Then convert. In 60 years of riding dozens of bikes, I've only had a few loose spokes, so I think the concept is exaggerated. Once you convert, those spoke nipples shouldn't turn or loosen or tighten. Unless you get damage to the rim or a stick damages the spoke, you shouldn't have loose spokes again.

[@East_TX_LCR]

@@HidalgoRides The bike in question is a Chinese pit bike I'm converting into a little super moto. That's why I was figuring I'd have to adjust the spokes. But I guess we'll see how their quality control is 😂

[@avirupbanerjee3874]

Hi David. Just wanted to know what will happen if I have a spoke bent or need to replace a spoke. Planning of doing this. so would like to know if any situations happen with the spoke what to do.

[@bestrestproducts648]

To replace a spoke you'd need to demount the tire, then cut the tape and sealant around the bad spoke nipple. Fit new spoke and nipple and tighten, then reseal the nipple on inside. When cured, apply a piece of tape about 3" long across the top of existing tape. . Since I posted this video in 2018 I haven't heard of anyone who had to replace a spoke. And as for spokes coming loose and needing to be adjusted, it doesn't happen. Sealant prevents nipple from turning so spokes don't get loose.

[@avirupbanerjee3874]

@@bestrestproducts648 Thanks a lot for the information. 👍🏽 Its just that removing the sealent won't be an easy job and will take a lot of time when on the run.

[@watermelonaxe]

Does doing this conversion allow for slow release of air in event of a puncture rather than instant pressure loss of a tubbed tire?

[@bestrestproducts648]

@@watermelonaxe yes

[@watermelonaxe]

@@bestrestproducts648thank you.

[@Pmz604]

Great video, easy simple to follow process, thank you David

[@joegiger9015]

Hello David, Thank You for letting us know how to do it properly. Is one of the 3 ounce tubes of the 3M 5200 Sealant enough for 1 rim ? And did I understand You correctly, You only convert the rear rim to Tubeless ? Looking forward to get Your answers. Thanks. Regards. Joe

[@bestrestproducts648]

Yes 1 tube is enough for both front and back wheels. . The video showed the rear wheel conversion only. You could also do the front if you want, same process. An interesting note about the front wheel: it's narrower and because it doesn't have the "safety bead" on the rim, there's a slightly higher chance of the tire rolling on the rim. Because the rear is much wider this isn't a problem. . So... for a front wheel you might consider making it a "hybrid" wheel/tire combo. Convert the front rim like you did the rear. Then put an inner tube in the front. That tube will prevent the tire from rolling on the rim. Now you have a tubed-tubeless front tire. This is double insurance. If you get a puncture in the field, repair the hole as you would a tubeless tire. When you get home pull the tire off and repair the tube, then reassemble. Takes a bit to wrap your head around this double system, but it works.

[@joegiger9015]

@@bestrestproducts648 Hello David, 1. Thanks for the detailed answer. 2. I have one question in relation to the "hybrid" tyre when having had a puncture: What do You do to prevent leaking air through the valve hole in the rim? 3. I don't know Your travel-plans for the future, but just in case, if You ever should drive the panamerican highway in South-America and pass through Ibarra in Ecuador, then please let me know, I will invite You for dinner in one of the best restaurants.

[@bestrestproducts648]

@@joegiger9015 thanks for the invite. Unless I win the lottery it's unlikely I'll get that far. And as I ride into the sunset of advancing years, the thought of international travel becomes less and less exciting. . Hybrid - seal the valve stem hole where the stem goes thru the rim, using the same sealant as you used on the spoke nipples. Sealant on inside before you put the stem thru the rim. If you ever need to remove that tube you'll need to cut away the sealant to get the stem free and that may mean you'll have to replace the tube, but it's a small price to pay for the benefits of the hybrid.

[@dpgoverride]

I want to do this to my Harley laced wheels but my concern is down the road the need to relace/replace a bent rim or even just needing to tighten laces/true the wheel. I've used my fair share of 3m 5200 in the jet ski world and that stuff is a nightmare to remove. The adhesive tape you used is similar to the gorilla branded stuff I've used, extremely sticky and very difficult to removed once adhered. Have you had to repair, true or replace a rim or tighten laces after performing this modification?

[@HidalgoRides]

No I've never had to do any of those things

[@catstevens5890]

One question I have is this, is it true you can’t run the tubed tyre back on the rim which has been converted to tubeless. Someone told me you’d have to buy a tubeless tyre to go on the bead as it’s a different fit in comparison to the tyre that was used with a tube.

[@markmaese1599]

Is it OK to run a tube in a tubeless wheel and tire?

[@richardgiles2484]

Really good video and I want to do this to my Tiger 800xca. However I'm not very mechanical mined and trying to find someone in the UK that will do it for me but have had no luck yet in finding someone 😕

[@billnumby1080]

Well done. Is there any reason, this conversion would not work on a big criser, like a Roadstar? My concern is the 8mm tubeless valve stem, even in 90 degree, may not be tall or long enough, for my standard back rim. And very few options seem available.

[@kennethsexton9628]

A great video. Very thorough. I would not hesitate to seal motorcycle wheels just as you show it.

[@mohammedomrani5846]

thank you for your time and your teaching and and god bless you

[@adolfomendoza248]

What happen when your need adjustments on the spokes? Will the seal brake??

[@bestrestproducts648]

Your question has been asked and answered a dozen times in the messages below. But here it is again: . 1. BEFORE you begin the conversion, check all spokes and adjust as needed. 2. After conversion spokes won't loosen because the nipple is held in place by the glue. 3. The reason spokes get loose is the nipple turns. If the nipple can't turn the spoke won't loosen. 3. If you do need to adjust or replace a spoke, cut the tape and sealant at that spoke. Then reseal that section. . You're probably over-thinking this process... Have you ever actually needed to adjust a spoke? I've done it on a dirt bike, but never needed to do it on a large dual sport bike. Your situation may be different.

[@adolfomendoza248]

Thank you very much, I did read a couples of dozens of comments before ask, but didn't find any asking that. Sorry if it was annoying. Best regards

[@fiveowaf454]

A true tubeless rim has a raised lip between the shoulder of the rim and the center to help keep the tire in place if it deflates while riding, without that if the tire does deflate the tire bead will go to the center of the rim and the tire will come off the rim quickly. An inner tube in the tire is supposed to stop this happening by filling the "void" to a degree. It's one of those arguments that can create a lot of debate, I have a mildly custom KZ1000A2 where the 18" rear comes from a police model and is a true tubeless alloy rim, where the front is from a KZ Custom model which was designed for a tubed tire as it does not have the inner shoulders on the rim. The bike shop who fitted that tire said it is ok for a tubeless tire, I know it isn't strictly, but figure being a narrower front rim I'll take the risk versus using a tube which can suddenly deflate quickly if the valve stem rips as it deflates. I think it comes down to personal choice and a knowing acceptance of any risks involved. There is absolutely know doubt that from a practical point of view running tubeless tires in the event of a puncture on the road is a huge benefit, being able to plug the tire, inflate it and be on your way is a huge improvement over trying to remove wheels and tires on the side of the road. If you have a large cruiser motorcycle or similar with no center stand you are really in trouble, in addition exhausts etc. often have to be removed too. My advice is to give consideration to changing a flat tire when you choose a motorcycle in the first place if you intend riding any distance from home and don't want to spend hours on the roadside and with a recovery service. When I look at a vast proportion of the motorcycles people ride, it's obviously not something many have ever give a thought to. Either tubeless alloy rims or the BMW style with external spokes are much more convenient should you pick up a flat and also safer if they deflate quickly. Personally I like to have a TPMS so I get early warning of a tire going down, this helps immensely from a safety standpoint, but also the sooner you stop you reduce potential tire damage and have something that's easier to repair.

[@bestrestproducts648]

Good points, well said. The rear tire is so wide and stiff, that the chances of it "rolling off the rim" are minimal. The front tire is narrower and has a higher chance of doing that... which is why Woody's Wheel Works won't do front wheel tubeless conversions on most bikes (only for dirt bikes). The way around this conundrum is to convert the front rim to tubeless AND run a tube inside. It's a hybrid tubed/tubeless tire. You get the benefits of tubeless and the benefit of that tube keeping the tire in place. Got a puncture? fix it like a tubeless tire. Sure, the tube will still be punctured, but you can ride with it that way. When you get home make the required repairs.

[@fiveowaf454]

@@bestrestproducts648 That's a good working compromise, possibly doing the front, without a tube, is considered more risky because in addition to any "for and against" factors, a front tire deflating is a more hazardous proposition and something better not messed with by any company from a liability standpoint alone.

[@nickmullin3680]

Do you think this system would work well on a street bike on long distance highway riding?

[@davidpetersen5531]

Yes it would.

[@joryv1]

Any idea where to get the 3" tape in a smaller length? 18 yards is about the smallest I've found. Lots of 1 1/2" width...possible to run two overlapping lengths of that? Thanks!

[@bestrestproducts648]

No idea on suppliers and what they offer. Overlapping 1-1/2" strips to make a wider strip might result in an air gap that will cause problems later on. Search for wider tape, do it right, do it once.

[@joryv1]

@@bestrestproducts648 Thanks - Appreciate the feedback.

[@anthonyf4525]

Did you ever purchase any? I can only find 36 yards now. Wanna go halfsies? Lol

[@bestrestproducts648]

@@anthonyf4525 when I made my purchase I was able to find shorter lengths. Sorry, don't need more myself. You could post a message offering to sell excess tape to other parties.

[@Yourneighborhoodmacaroni]

But, what about when the spokes get out of adjustment over time? Do you have to re apply everything?

[@bestrestproducts648]

As a general rule the spokes WONT go out of adjustment because the nipple heads won't turn. Unless you damage a spoke due to a rock or stick, the spokes will stay tight. IF you have to make adjustments, you'd have to cut the tape and sealant at the offending spoke, tighten, then reapply sealant followed by a strip of tape over that area. . Out of curiosity, when was the last time you actually had to adjust a spoke?

[@stephanventer9923]

Best video so far on this topic....

[@Borosescu]

This is a good idea. My only concern is how can you change a nipple if you have to at some point. Or. How do you adjust the spoke tension if you have to. Maybe someone can make me understand that. Well done.

[@bestrestproducts648]

1. Spoke tension should be checked before you convert.The nipples won't loosen once the adhesive is in place. 2. The nipples won't loosen once the adhesive is in place. 3. It's unlikely that tension will ever change after the conversion, since the nipples can't turn. 4. If you do find a loose spoke, you'll need to cut away the adhesive so you can adjust. Then reapply adhesive. I'm pretty sure that unless you damage your wheel, the problem of loose spokes will disappear.

[@Mauricio-Gonzalez]

I would like to know if I will need to buy one 8 oz silicone for each wheel or if one is enough for both wheels?

[@bestrestproducts648]

1 tube should be plenty

[@Mauricio-Gonzalez]

Sorry, I wrote 8 oz, is 3 oz, will it is enough?

[@bestrestproducts648]

@@Mauricio-Gonzalez 3 oz will do the job

[@BoStErO1905]

Can i do this and still run a tube in it? The pain in the ass is when you get a flat in the middle of nowhere and you cant plug it.. thanks

[@bestrestproducts648]

Think about the logic of your question... if a nail punctures the tire carcass, your tube is also going to have a hole in it. So having a tube inside doesn't do much good... except... . There is some benefit to having a tube inside. A tube allows you to run lower pressure without running the risk of the tire rolling off the rim. . Should you get a puncture, fix the tire using a tubeless repair.

[@chantakzee]

How heavy is the material used? Considering typical inner tube weight around 1.8~2.0kg both front and back , will the lighter material helps in unsprung weight ?

[@HidalgoRides]

I never weighed the tape or sealant, but it's much less than a tube.

[@chantakzee]

@@HidalgoRides Just did some digging , the tape is at most 50g for both tyre, and assume you use 2 tube of sealant that is about 100g each, could be using only 1 tube but let's assume you need 2, it comes up to be 250g, now you save 1.55kg ~ 1.75kg of unsprung weight!

[@bestrestproducts648]

@@chantakzee good detective work. Now tell me how much a tube weighs if it's filled with helium. LOL

[@chantakzee]

@@bestrestproducts648 I'll be damned, someone did the math A typical tyre is an annulus with an outer radius of about 35 cm, an inner radius about 24 cm, and a width of 20 cm. This has a net volume of about 40 liters, or 0.04 cubic m. The air is under a pressure of about 2.6 bar (gauge), or 3.6 bar (absolute). At this pressure, air has a density of about 4.8 kg/ cubic meter. So you need about 190 grams of air. Helium is about 1/6 the weight of air , so its 31.6g of air edit: helium is so much smaller than normal air so you'll leak it out as soon as you put it in.

[@Random-ed2xf]

Yes but what if you need to adjust the spokes?

[@bestrestproducts648]

Read comments below. All explained.

[@ge42201647]

Ok. Good job. What if you have to replace a broken spoke?

[@bestrestproducts648]

Remove the tire, cut out the sealant where needed, replace spokes, reseal.

[@britniemallet9338]

Thank you so much for this!!

[@armandojrdelvalle4291]

silicon sealant can be use to patch this up?

[@bestrestproducts648]

No I wouldn't use silicone sealant. Not strong enough, peels off too easily. If you decide to use silicone you do it at your own peril

[@Motovibes91]

I'm planning to do a rear wheel only tubeless conversion. Is this advised?

[@HidalgoRides]

Yes. In fact most punctures occur on rear wheel so if you're only gonna convert only 1 tire, do the rear.

[@AhmirASMR]

What will happen if I needed to re adjust the spokes after I installed this? Will the tape or The Seal tear or Breaks? We knew that Rims and Spokes always get out ouf true in time specialy of you use them for daily grind and Long rides.

[@bestrestproducts648]

Cut the tape. Cut the sealant. Adjust spoke. Reseal. Or... don't. The advantages of a tubeless conversion far outweigh the hypothetical chances of having to adjust a spoke.

[@Nick-vb9rk]

Thanks I did this on my drz400e putting a wider airless tire on it I took the rim locks out does that affect anything?

[@Nick-vb9rk]

Tubeless not airless

[@bestrestproducts648]

No issues other than having an extra hole in the rim where the rimlock used to be.

[@ryke4552]

did you plug the rimlock hole? or how did you go about converting with a rimlock?

[@hurterbe]

Hi I am wondering. Is there any reason why people not simply use bicycle tubeless rim tape?

[@bestrestproducts648]

Bicycle tubeless tape simply isn't strong enough. Bicycles seldom reach 80-100 mph, and bicycles weigh nothing when compared to the weight of a motorcycle and passenger. The stresses on the rim and tire of a motorcycle are ten times higher than they are on a bicycle.

[@maquinista55]

Congratulations David for your excellent tutorial.As I live outside U.S. I`ll try to find the tape here.

[@bestrestproducts648]

Thank you. When you do the tire mount, don't put the tube liner strip on the rim. We found it tends to move and that covers the valve stem hole.

[@JoseOrtega-xn4mj]

Thanks David very informative video & thank you for your time. Can i use the same tire or or do i buy tubeless? I need a rear tire anyway just don’t know which too buy. Again, thanks!

[@bestrestproducts648]

Since your rim isn't a "tubeless rim" with the "safety bead", there's no reason for you to go thru the hassles of finding a tire rated as "tubeless". Just use what you've been using.

[@JoseOrtega-xn4mj]

Thanks