sorry it has been a while since i did this work. im pretty sure that you need to pull the trans as there is a plug that needs put in the case behind the pump. check out the link this is what i followed for my rebuild. web.archive.org/web/20230325204856/www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/TH400_rebuild_tech (could only find the site on the wayback machine as the TH400 page on the actual site appears to be gone for some reason.)

Right now I'm running a 5w30. Will be switching to a 5w40 soon. For me my bore gauge is very cheap and I doubt it's tungsten tipped. Usually Chinese manufacturers use the cheapest materials they can lol. But also it's not really sharp or have a lot of pressure on it so it shouldnt be scratching or gouging the bearing surface. With better tools they will have a "trigger" for lack of better term that pulls the measuring tip in then releasing the trigger will pop it out so you don't have to "force" the tip into the bearing to take the measurement.

@@WrenchAvengers All very good information, thank you. I also just switched 0W40, and am trying to figure out my bearing clearances.

Like a scratch in the face of the part of the valve you didn't grind on? I doubt that would cause much of an issue depending on how deep it is. I'd inspect the valve and the hole in the valve body it goes in make sure there are no large burrs in there it could get hung on. Small scratches should effect anything but a deep gouge may be a problem.

@@WrenchAvengers ok great thank you for the fast response i had to cut the vb to get the valve out as the sleeve would not come out i will try again with the new vb and use more caution

I left all the bands in the transmission. I would assume they are still used.

@@WrenchAvengers if you have engine braking they still work.

Yes it is.

you talking the check balls under the valve body? i go over that in the linked video (should be correct time stamp) kzbin.info/www/bejne/amGwm4JorbGkeas also most of what i did came from this site if you want to check it out lots of info there. and it shows check ball location. www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/TH400_rebuild_tech

this car never had A/C. I also tend to remove A/C from my vehicles and i also have a very sweaty back in the summer lol. but also this kit i know is not A/C compatible with the full size go-autoworks ramhorn. Go-autoworks does sell A/C compatible kits though some with more log style manifolds but i know he used to have one with a mini ramhorn that was supposed to fit.

Sorry man I can't find my orders or receipts and I simply do not remember what size I purchased for all that. If I had to make a guess though it was likely a 1310.

@@WrenchAvengers thanks man, any info helps

i did. you can see later in the video i have black wires running to the bottom of the fuse block (black is 85 on my wire harness). i gloss over the wiring at about 10:14.

@@WrenchAvengers am so sorry for that and I do promise myself not so much beer 🤣👍while watching something with electricity

@@melvis2017 lolol all good man. thanks for checking out my video!

lol sorry i didnt explain it well. on my wire harness the red wire went to 87a (middle terminal) on the relay. that terminal is not used for any devices i will be powering with the relays so removed that wire to keep the mess down as much as i could.

lol sorry i wasnt able to help much there but you know just image that you found a video you where looking for and your all set. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqPSpaWifqxlqc0 but really there is Eric the Car Guys video on it if you havnt found it yet and it explains pretty well how to do it. that is if you are actually looking for that sort of thing and not just making a joke lol.

so it has been a few years since i did this so i just dont recall all the little details. if i recall correctly i installed all the bands including the forward band. im fairly certain i installed the front servo in the case. main reason why is because i didnt see anything that said not to lol. as for the reverse accumulator piston i just dont recall if i left those sealing rings out or not. been too long and my memory sucks. just from some quick looking around i did on google. the instructions that say to do these things are talking about installing reverse manual valve bodies. its possible those modifications are needing when doing that but when modifying the factory valve body to be full manual you retain the forward shift pattern and may not need to do those things. for my build i largely followed this page. most the info there was written by a guy who is highly knowledgeable about th400 transmissions. used to post on yellowbullet and some chevelle forums and places like that. (here is a link to his shop www.jakesperformance.com) here is where i got most of my info as well as other places around the net. www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/TH400_rebuild_tech sorry i couldnt answer your questions any better its just been a long time since ive thought about this trans. once i got it working i pretty much never thought about it again lol.

@@WrenchAvengers Thank you for taking the time to reply, I went ahead and installed the band and rings. Same here all I've been able to find talks about RMVB. Again thank you.

@@The_Sparrowcide no problem. i would have replied sooner but i didnt see the notification for the comment. glad you got yours put together. what are you planning on putting the trans in?

@@WrenchAvengers it went into a monster truck.

@@The_Sparrowcide lol damn thanks cool. did it end up working out for you?

handful of things that really didnt need this project lol. wideband, other guages, boost control, launch control, a clutch delay valve, and one relay set to switch ground signal to tell my ECU to turn on the rad fan. this made using the switches im using easier as the switches are all positive switching since they have LEDs so just made for easier cleaner install of all that. if i would ever get off my lazy ass i would get an updated video made with this in the car.

lol thanks for the sub! if i told you it was k swapped would you believe me?

@@WrenchAvengers I'd believe you if you said yess and I'd also believe if you said no because it really isn't cheap. Good luck to you either way

@@matsmith3024 lol yea its not. i am broke.

thanks for the kind comment. i would recommend the dual feed for sure as it helps the trans apply pressure to the clutches. the transgo shift kit does this but without needing to make changes in the trans its just replacing the plate like the b&m is. if you can follow the videos or check out some of the links i posted in the descriptions i think you would find its not too difficult and i doubt its over you head. this was my first auto trans i ever worked on and i was able to get it going so if i can im sure you can lol.

i just used an open end wrench.

@@WrenchAvengers ok. I was concerned about the torque spec when going back together. I went ahead and picked up some u joint extensions since I needed them anyway

@@ThatCarVlogChannel lol well i didnt worry so much about that. i figured tight is good enough. hasnt fallen off yet so thats good atleast lol. more tools is never a bad thing though!

@@WrenchAvengers hey if it works it works. Yea that's my thoughts exactly, perfect excuse to buy more

just plug it. i just put the modulator back in but didnt connect it to the vacuum line.

Are you trying to do the same thing we where? You have a positive toggling switch that needs to toggle a ground? Have the 12v from the switch go to 30 on the relay. Then 87 to ground. When switch is on that will toggle the relay on. Then have ground go to 86 then from 85 to your ecu. So when switch is on it energizes the relay that then connects 86 to 85 completing the ecu circuit to the ground. Hope that helps.

@@WrenchAvengers THANKS MUCH

yea if going full manual there is no need for the vacuum modulator. you can buy a plug and plug the outside of the case or what i did was just put the vacuum modulator in but no vacuum line connected to it. i did put a rubber plug on the outside just to keep dirt and grim from getting to the diaphragm inside.

@@WrenchAvengers and governor ,kikckdown ?

@@CristianHernandez-gk1sd if full manual youll remove the governor tubes and plug the ports like i mention in the video. so you wont need the governor anymore. (this is the reason i went full manual was i had an issue with my governor so i removed it all together). no need for a kickdown as its not going to work anyway. full manual means just that there is zero Auto functionality in the transmission anymore. i kept mine there to plug the hole but its not hooked to anything.

@@WrenchAvengers governor just take off and put the cover back on?

@@CristianHernandez-gk1sd thats what i did and its been working fine lol.

id think if you got power to the socket (assuming your testing with a multimeter or test light) id think the issue is the ground.

@@WrenchAvengers The ground. There's only one wire coming out of the socket. How would I ground it? This has been very helpful so far. (didn't think of a ground)

@@TheLoobis the one wire is likely the positive. (If it's like mine) the body of the light is the ground. So I'd make sure the socket is making a good connection to the mount or frame.

@@WrenchAvengers It is pretty rusty. I'll give it a shot.

@@WrenchAvengers You son of a bitch. I fixed it. I FIXED IT! Thanks, asshole! I'm so happy. Thanks bro.

It helps to have friends or do what I do and just bribe some random guys who are out mowing their lawns.

@@WrenchAvengers yea order pizza and hope it’s a stout delivery guy -I thought of that once to help me move a big screen TV😂😂

@@gregl2249 lol thats a pretty good idea!

Yea man. I built a frame that bolted to the original bench seat location then bolted the buckets to that frame.

yes that is what i had for clearance. im no expert either and thats why i just left it because i didnt know what to do to make it any looser lol. factory spec its pretty close to .010 so i figure it would be fine but usually for higher performance you would want to go more like .050. it doesnt drag or anything that i can tell. it actually works pretty well and i mean if it did i guess it would self clearance eventually lol.

@@WrenchAvengers yeah I guess so, as long as it didn't overheat everything else in the process!lol I think you can adjust the width of that strange looking corrugated spacer that your first steel rests on or machine the pressure plate on top of the stack, but that's not advice, just what I believe to be correct

@@Headsup9550 that would make sense. i think changing the spacer height would be the proper solution. i woulnt want to make the plate thinner since all the pressure is on that even if it is only by a few thou. had i thought of that at the time i likely would have just ground down that spacer though thats likely not advisable unless you could do it evenly all the way across it. probably take your time and measure it often would be fine.

@@WrenchAvengers I've heard by a couple of people that it's ok to do it with a flapper wheel on a grinder since it's not crucial that it is perfectly flat. Makes sense, but if it's in and working, who cares what the clearance is!

Doesnt look to be available anymore but this is what got. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06ZY6G1FC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

to be honest i cant say for sure. ive never done that though i would say start by going into Neptune (or hondata or what ever you have) and find what you can use as a input for rolling antilag. once you have that then just figure out your switch i would assume the wipe switches will have a relay already. then from the relay id run my own wire to the ecu pin that will be used for the input. hope that helps.