@ld2048 Your right, 3 minutes of prep now or 2 hours flushing system, depressurizing, cleaning filter then refilling and pressurizing system. Hoping that the sand didn't hurt a pump seal and that you don't have to do it again! Thanks for watching

Only tubes in the sand , and sand is the most stable foundation to put concrete on. The cement is about 4-5 inches and the tubes are about 10-12 inches under cement top. So basically sand and cement have close to same heat transfer rate, but sand is cheaper per yard then concrete. Thanks for watching

@@spineguy1553 it's a 40 x 80

@robinknudson3663 This one was well taken care off. I had a h13 and it was a working machine , so didn't look pretty but ran great

Thanks

Just screwed to trusses. If your trusses are over 6ft, then you would probably want blocking between trusses to prevent sagging with insulation on top of ceiling panels

Mine are 4 feet on center. Thank you for your quick response. I’m looking forward to this project and your video helped a lot with making a decision. Are your trusses 4 feet ?

Mine are 4 feet on center. Thank you for your quick response. I’m looking forward to this project and your video helped a lot with making a decision. Are your trusses 4 feet ?

@@RobertBowyer-hw4kq Mine are 6ft on center

Thank you.

The ground does sap the heat but only to an extent. You would need perimeter side insulation or else the sides would drain the heat from slab and it wouldn't heat. So basically create a chimney and the ground with tubing is the fire. You do need more tubing with the insulation to properly heat the ground to make it work. Thanks for watching

The water temp is actually 90 degrees going into the floor slab. The heater is set at 130 degrees but it mixes with returning floor water on the panels , so it loses 40 degrees at panel.

You're welcome

You just use non detergent motor oil.

Glad it helped

No issues at all , used to check attic every year but now just crawl up there every 2 years and see if any leaks . Probably will just stop doing that altogether. Thanks for watching

Where vapor barriers are placed depends on code in your area of the country.

Plexiglass is 10x stronger then glass in impact resistant tests , so like a baseball bat hit wouldn't break the thicker acrylic. Only downside is , it scratches easily while real glass doesn't scratch easy.

With your rough in, they will inspect that before concrete is poured. So in most areas, need to pull a permit so they can check rough in then they do a final

Each pump uses about 0.65 amps so maybe 2 amps an hour for panel and heater is minimal. My basic charge for meter is higher then my pumps running whole month!

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching the videos , every view counts!

Ya you can do that but most people only buy 16 tires in their whole life! So wouldn't make sense to buy a machine because each tire would be over $120 extra to pay off that machine . So now you need to buy a balancer also , so looking at about 5k for both machines. Usually shops charge about $30 per tire to change and balance , so someone can do over 170 tires and still not pay off the machines.

@@JasonKZbin Well I do have 13 vehicles and we buy tires for at least 2 of them per year. We also have summer tires and winter tires for at least 2 vehicles. As for balancing, we are using the balancing beads. So far so good. Shops around here charge $40 for mounting/balancing plus $5/tire for the city. If I do it myself I'm allowed to take my old tires to the dump for free. Also, and this is the major reason, I'm sick of people not doing a good job. Most of my tires are directional and I've had shops put them on backwards only to have to go back and get it corrected. That was the last straw for me.

@stickman-1 I totally agree , doing it yourself is only way you know that it is done right. ONLY if your smart enough as most people don't take pride in their work and would rather do a quick hack job.

The systems have that as it is controlled by the zone relay box. Each pump has their own thermostat and tied into the zone relay .

I have a 200sf shop with tubes in the floor. I was hoping to use one of the $200 on demand boilers. Do you think that would work? I would wire the tstat to the circ pump.

The manifolds have them installed on them , thats what the pex loops hook up to

Not the ones on the manifolds. the ones on the copper pipes. in this video you have a guage next to the pressure tank and one next to the Air seperator. Is it some kind of T fitting @@JasonKZbin

@abacojack13 It is a 1" tee with like 3/8 - 1/2 on top. Then you sweat a threaded reducer to it with threads of gauge your using . Threaded reducer slips over the pipe perfectly.

They are Grundfos UPS15-58 pumps so 17 GPM . I run 1/2 GPM to loops and the boiler pump runs 4.5 GPM to water heater. I run mine on low to medium speed . I have a breakdown of system in my 1 video. Thanks for watching

Depends on where you are located. If your in the South or Texas , then doesn't matter. In the Liberal states , they nitpick everything. They even measure the fastening distance from Box!

Ya they make the special staples for this purpose. Thanks for watching

I got them at menards , thinner gauge then the regular pro rib siding

Its been almost 4 years and about 2 years ago had a pinhole leak in 1 line. It doesn't leak , only under pressure so I closed that line off on manifold. It might of been a manufacturer defect as it holds liquid when not pressurized. But even with that line down, it still heats the same and uses same therms . The pex size is 1/2" and runs are about 290-298 feet. Spacing is anywhere between 6" - 8" depending on area. Along walls and garage doors, used tighter spacing to compensate for heat loss . I run it usually at 120 , but if its warmer ( 32-38 degrees) then I can turn it down to 110 as sometimes it overshoots the temperature by 2 degrees. You don't want big temperature swings as that uses more energy to stabilize temperature. when its under -10 degrees , I will boost it up to 130 . Raise or lower temp when its like a week of temperature extremes. Also changing temp exercises hot water heater , allowing different gas flow. Not really needed but I do it once in awhile to just mix things up. That tankless heater temp of 120 , you are only putting in between 80 -100 degrees into the floor pex , depending on how much tubing you have and the main panel setup. I have never seen 120 degrees go to the floor pex . Thanks for watching the videos

@JasonKZbin thanks for the reply . I'm going to be using a outdoor wood boiler for my heat and a propane back up . Did you put a vapor barrier down under your coils ? I can't remember in the video , I'll have to watch it again . How did you hold your coils in place to the soil? I definitely want the thermal mass effect. But I also have a working shop and want to be able to bolt anything down I need any place I want. So no tubes in my concrete for sure .

Nope no issues. Might be different in a tropical, high humidity area maybe or covering a pool or hot tub with no ventilation. You need alot of moisture in building for it to start sweating inside. Thanks for watching

In your situation it makes sense to use it. Thanks for watching

If you have kids, those towel.bars are great for pull ups

Kids like them and for new construction, it's easy to put a 50 cent piece of 2x4 in there before sheetrock. That's what separates hack jobs from a good job