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@versacebouy86 22 сағат бұрын
Which system would be good for normal flowerbeds. 😊
@dripdepot 9 сағат бұрын
Either one can work well for flower beds! I'm a fan of winding or snaking 1/4" drip line through my flower bed, but my flower bed is fairly small -- for larger beds (and flowers that are ok with wet foliage, which is fairly common in the flower world) having something that can provide area coverage can make it easier. Basically, for small beds, I'm a fan of snaking drip line, for larger beds I find it easier (and just as effective) to go with something that covers some area :)
@listdoludzie Күн бұрын
I have drip line on raised beds and spike emitters on my landscape plants. Beds are too wet and landscape plants are too dry. Water for 20min every morning at 1 bar. The spike emitters only give 2 litres per hour. Should I double up on each plant or change to button emitters?
@dripdepot 9 сағат бұрын
Do you know the flow rate of the emitters in your drip line? I'm surprised the beds are getting too wet -- most drip line will have that same 2 lph your spike emitter does (though we do sometimes see them with 4 lph which could be the case here). Adding another spike emitter (or even a button dripper) to the plants being watered by the spike emitter can definitely work -- it's one of the tricks we use for thirstier / larger plants. It has the dual benefit of ensuring those plants receive enough water and that they also get water to all sides of the root zone. Button drippers are likely to perform similarly to your spike emitter -- the most commonly used flow rate that we see is 2 lph, so adding one would be very similar to adding another spike emitter. Button drippers are available at higher flow rates if that's the route you wanted to go -- 4 lph is also fairly common. Though not as common, 8 lph button drippers are out there too. Those are likely the easiest solution, but there is one other -- you could zone the system so that the raised beds and the landscape plants are on their own zone -- this allows them to each have their own watering cycle that you can tailor to their needs. A faucet splitter or multi-outlet timer (if you're automating it) makes zoning fairly straight forward.
@matthewharper8933 Күн бұрын
Great video and website! We just bought our first home, newly built in Dallas, TX. I'm starting to see a gap from the clay soil drawing away from the foundation, so I'm eager to buy one of your foundation kits, a hose timer, etc. One question I don't see covered yet: our driveway is adjacent to one side of the house. It's a split driveway with light gravel down the middle, so we could irrigate that part, but our car would go over the hose twice. I'm really not sure how to handle that.
@user-dk7sq8ng9g Күн бұрын
😊😊😊😊😊😊😮😮😮😮தொ
@bmello67 Күн бұрын
Thank you for the video. Very instructive. I have a question: Is the head angle important? In your video, it is 45 °. Does it make any difference if it is horizontal or vertical?
@bjbrown6488 2 күн бұрын
Thank you .. exactly what I needed to water a planter I've added to the garden.
@sandram5664 2 күн бұрын
What perfect timing since my Drip Depot irrigation kit is due to arrive today!
@ralphpetry1745 2 күн бұрын
I finally took the plunge into drip irrigation last year after years of hand watering etc. Like most, you immediately wonder what took so long for the light bulb to come on and make this happen. This brings me to the first tip for Part 2 of your series - map your system especially if it large like mine was. After a long Canadian winter, I forgot about a shut off that I had installed and cleverly hidden and spend several hours this spring trying to figure out why half the system wasn't working. How it was even closed after blowing out the lines remains a mystery. I am sure half of North America heard me that afternoon - lol!
@mikejones4721 3 күн бұрын
I purchased the straight, inline filter. It leaks at the connection with the pressure regulator. No matter what. Also, what causes the faucet to squeal when it runs through the system?
@bannurnandeesh1637 3 күн бұрын
Excellent video, actively planning drip irrigation for my 70+ Arboviratite plants/trees
@dripdepot 3 күн бұрын
Thank you! If any questions come up, don't hesitate to reach out, happy to help :)
@__S__435 3 күн бұрын
This channel is honestly so good. I wasted money thinking that when irrigation companies say their tubing is "1/2 inch," they actually mean 0.5 inch. But in irrigation tubing, "1/2 inch" is not a diameter, but a _class._ So far, I haven't seen any "1/2 inch" tubing that was actually half an inch. Not inside diameter, and not outside diameter either. Instead, there are several diameters in the class in the ~0.6-0.71 inch range. This makes it much harder to reason about the tubing and fittings than any other kind of tubing I've worked with. Companies like Rain Bird are not helpful here either. Their websites are designed by people who have forgotten what it's like to NOT already know all the crazy opaque rules about "1/2 inch" tubing. They don't make it easy to figure out which tubing works with which fittings; and you have to do a great deal of research to figure out not only which fittings to buy, but in fact, which tubing you _CAN_ buy, because you need to hook the tubing up to a water source that's a standard diameter (like 3/4 NPT) rather than crazy irrigation moon units where the nominal diameter is more of a diversion than a specification. For Rain Bird "1/2 inch" tubing which is actually 0.71 inches (OD), I wound up heating the end of the tubing with a hot air gun and then sliding it over a 5/8 brass barbed fitting. Even without a clamp, this has been completely leak-free for several weeks, so hopefully it'll hold. The other end of the fitting is in real units (3/4 NPT) so I actually know for sure it'll fit with an NPT pipe without having to get out an astrolabe, or consult with an astrologer, or however it is that people usually grapple with this needlessly annoying problem. In the video, you see 0.7 vs 0.71 inch, and that 1% is enough to make things not work. Why on Earth is that even a thing? Why don't they just standardize on half, 5/8, 3/4? Or the same thing in metric, i.e., 17mm? What is this "tubing A is 0.01 inch thicker than tubing B" nonsense???
@dripdepot 3 күн бұрын
I fully agree on standardizing these! It's frustrating for us too (which is one reason why we made the video) trying to help folks who have pre-existing tubing. Finding out exactly which 1/2" size it is can be a huge pain. I'm in 100% agreement (and I bet they are too!). I think you're touching on what would be the right answer as well, when you mention metric. Metric would allow there to be different sizes all very close (like we see now with 1/2") but still be able to clearly know what size fittings to get. This would allow large commercial growers not to over spend (why spend more for 17mm when you're spec'd out for 15mm) while at the same time allowing gardeners, DIY'ers and hobby farmers to easily get compatible tubing and fittings. PVC/Iron Pipe Size standardized decades ago, it's time for poly to do the same -- you have an ally in me to see it so. :)
@__S__435 3 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot I think we could actually take things a step further. How many times have you heard from someone who could only get a threaded fitting on a couple turns because they didn't realize there's a difference between NPT and GHT? I saw a bunch of reviews for a Rain Bird NPT to drip-lock fitting just today which complained about that exact thing, and it was pretty obvious what was going on.
@Mr1982shawn 3 күн бұрын
Can i use a water pump for a drip system on a balcony? Or would the pressure be to low?
@dripdepot 3 күн бұрын
You bet, pumps are often used with drip systems very effectively -- if the pump is a particularly low pressure pump, you can go with lower pressure emitters. Drip systems already operate at low pressure, and there are some emitters that can operate at extraordinarily low pressure (less than 1 PSI even). Here is an example of one of those (this one can operate at less than 1 PSI so long as there is flow): www.dripdepot.com/cleanable-dripper
@mnchnn 4 күн бұрын
If the spigot is 30 feet away from the containers that I am setting up irrigation for, is it fine to just have the head assembly then have 1/2polytubing running 30ft before having any emitters/drippers?
@dripdepot 4 күн бұрын
I think this plan sounds fantastic -- a head assembly at the spigot, followed by 30' of 1/2" tubing and running microtubing with emitters and drippers to your containers is exactly how we'd do it, your instincts here are spot on. With that route, everything is well into the green specification wise :)
@raw0431 5 күн бұрын
How often should i water my tomatoes, straw berry and blueberry plants? They are in a raised bed, and I live near the coast in VA, and it gets near 100F during the day.
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
There isn't one right answer to this, as a lot of variables are involved (cultivar of the plants, soil moisture retention rates, maturity of plants, number of fruit, etc) -- basically, it will vary from location to location. For the most part, we recommend "water and watch" -- pick a watering cycle and monitor the health of the plants so you can adjust accordingly. With that said, during the hottest part of summer (often around 100° here too) I typically water my garden fruit and vegetables for 30 minutes, twice per day using 0.5 GPH emitters. Your optimal cycles will likely be a little different, but you can use that get a rough idea -- for example, my soil moisture retention isn't great (I really need to get more mulch) so I have to add that second cycle in the evening. When experimenting with watering cycles, always remember it's easy to add more water at almost any time, but not to remove water, so I like to err on the side of potentially too little when first picking a cycle. Also, don't use the wet circle on top of the soil as a benchmark -- when done correctly, drip irrigation should only leave a small wet circle on the surface, all the action happens beneath the surface of the soil. You can dig around a little after a watering cycle to see how the water spread -- remember, for most plants you want it to be moist, but not wet :)
@mnchnn 5 күн бұрын
Is there any difference between the tee filter and inline filter?
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
No real functional difference :) The Tee filter works good for hose bibs that are low to the ground, the Tee shape allows the head assembly to go horizontal instead of vertical -- but other than shape, they're pretty much identical.
@alinamartin7715 5 күн бұрын
THANK YOU
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
Any time! :)
@KevinB_123 5 күн бұрын
Hello, I have an sprinkler system and I'm making my flower beds smaller. I live in FL and my sprinkler guy recommends that I put replace the driplines with Fan Jet sprayers. I like the idea of FJ sprayers because I do tend to move/add shrubs and flowers. My system is 8 years old (he did not install it) and he said that he doesn't like driplines because they get clogged. Depending on the cost, I may end up doing this myself since I am handy. I don't mind a little extra labor to do what is best. What do you recommend that I get? Thank in advance!
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
If the plants are good with having wet foliage, a Fan Jet could definitely work here -- they cover a reasonable area so you can get pretty good coverage with just a few of them. They put out quite a lot of water, so you'll want to make sure to plan for the flow rate of the system (the sum of the flow rate of all fan jets operating at once) versus the flow rate of the water source. If this was previously feeding a sprinkler system, you'll likely have plenty of flow though :) Labor wise, they're pretty equal, with fan jets likely being a little bit less since you need fewer of them -- either way isn't too bad though, except on very large landscapes.
@KevinB_123 4 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot thank you for your advice ! I really appreciate it!
@dripdepot 4 күн бұрын
@@KevinB_123 Any time Kevin! If any questions come up along the way, don't hesitate to drop a line, happy to help :)
@dig-ud3ez 5 күн бұрын
Would you ever use a Fernco coupling for a repair?
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
I've never used one before, but I just took a look at some of their literature and videos, and I do think they'd work well -- like "Bite" and "Loc" fittings they work with a range of sizes which is always handy, and I like how they work as a socket fitting (inserting the pipe into the fitting instead of over the fitting). Solid looking fittings!
@tiger1554 5 күн бұрын
Will this setup be able to stay during the winter in mild climates like zone 7B, MD where it sometimes snow?
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
You bet, the poly tubing we used in the video actually first gained in popularity in the US up in the northeast due to its freeze damage resistance. Poly tubing tends to "bend and not break" so it can be left out over winter, even when used above grade. With systems like in the video, all you usually need to do is let gravity drain the water from some low point end caps and you're good to go for winter. The head assembly parts (backflow preventer, filter, regulator) can be easily removed from the hose bib and stored inside. Here is a link to our winterizing video if you wanted to check it out -- it covers the things I mentioned above in a bit more detail (but it really is as easy as it sounds): kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4C2epSsZqmcebM
@tiger1554 4 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot thank you so much for explaining this!
@mnchnn 5 күн бұрын
If I plan on leaving the tubing outdoor overwinter after draining, which is better at a) withstanding zone 5 winters and which is b) less likely to get clogged: 1/4" Polyethylene Dripline with Emitter Spacing or adjustable emitters on stakes?
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
If it's well drained, I'd lean towards the 1/4" drip line, the materials are just a little bit more flexible. The adjustable emitters on stake can also be left out over winter, but we have seen the adjustment caps get displaced by freezing water trapped in the threads where the adjustment cap is connected to the rest of the assembly. Typically easily fixable, but that's not something that can occur with the 1/4" drip line so it gets the edge, even if by a small margin :)
@mnchnn 5 күн бұрын
Thank you so much!
@mnchnn 5 күн бұрын
Will the drip system be doomed to fail if I don’t have an air compressor?
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
Nope! If you have some end caps at low points, a gravity drain will usually be more than sufficient, even in places with particularly harsh winters. Poly tubing has a "bend but don't break" material property that allows it to be left out over winter, even above ground, so long as it has been reasonably drained. I'd say for poly tubing drip systems, using a compressor is usually the exception rather than the rule. :) Head assembly parts (timer, backflow preventer, filter and pressure regulator) should be stored indoors, but the tubing itself can be safely left out when gravity drained.
@mnchnn 5 күн бұрын
people in gardening groups have highlighted that even expensive timers seem to stop working after one season due to water and elements. Especially water reaching the battery compartment somehow. My outdoor spigot is not shielded from the elements at all. Is there anything I can do to protect the (pretty expensive) automatic hose end timer outdoors to make it last (during gardening season) ?
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
@@mnchnn This is a great question, as it is correct that exposure to the elements will shorten their life span -- particularly direct sun exposure. It's not so much the UV, but the heat generated from sun exposure, particularly on any timer with an LCD screen (the liquid crystals can overheat). If you have any way to create a temporary shade or enclosure for it, that would be best to keep the heat at reasonable levels. Water getting into the battery compartment isn't one I hear about too much -- the hose timers can typically handle rain with no problem, but definitely avoid submersion -- they're water resistant, but not water proof. This would also be from not removing them from winter -- if there's some water left inside and the timer is left outside, the freezing water could expand and cause internal damage that then allows water to enter the battery compartment. With all that said, I find heat damage to be the most common by far, and shade (even if it's something temporary just for the season) will go a long way towards getting its full life expectancy.
@mnchnn 5 күн бұрын
Is a water hammer arrester important if I install a hose end water timer?
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
Great question -- water hammer arrestors are not always needed, but if you are experiencing any water hammer when the timer valve closed, I would recommend one. I usually recommend one for older houses (whose piping may be older) as well. They're fairly inexpensive and the shock of a sudden change in water flow can eventually lead to damage, so if there's any water hammer (or if you want maximum protection) I'd go with one.
@mnchnn 5 күн бұрын
In what order would this be installed with regards to the head assembly? Can it be screwed to the tap first then hose splitter after it?
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
@@mnchnn You got it -- the most important part is for it to be before the timer -- it sounds like you're thinking something alone the lines of: Arrestor --> Splitter --> Timer --> Head Assembly If so, that is a solid order -- that order will allow the arrestor to absorb the shock of the sudden change in flow when the timer valve shuts. :)
@mnchnn 5 күн бұрын
Perfect, thank you for all your help. Much appreciated!
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
@@mnchnn Any time!
@anniegoulet4159 6 күн бұрын
I live in an area where everything would freeze up for about 7 months out of the year. I have done some research for having an irrigation system such as yours but how easy would it be to weatherize this system or what would you suggest?
@dripdepot 5 күн бұрын
Winterizing a drip system like this is fortunately very easy -- in most cases, you can simply drain the lines of water from a low point end cap and then leave the tubing out over the winter. The backflow preventer, filter and pressure regulator can be stored inside, but the tubing itself is safe to leave out if it's reasonably well drained. :) Here is a link to a winterizing video we made to show how easy it is if you wanted to see it in action: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4C2epSsZqmcebM
@ad00m5 6 күн бұрын
Hahahaha YEA RIGHT BUDDY
@patmcbride9853 6 күн бұрын
I got the "never connects to WiFi" Bhyve. I just use it like a regular programmable timer.
@dripdepot 6 күн бұрын
Awesome, and you bet, it works great as a normal programmable timer as well -- In my home garden I'm using a standard timer as well and it gets the job done :)
@robertbolger4876 6 күн бұрын
Thank you, this video is a great help for me. 😊
@dripdepot 6 күн бұрын
You're very welcome, thank you for the comment as well! :)
@rafaelgrimaldi7390 6 күн бұрын
Love this company! Quality stuff and very well made videos
@mnchnn 6 күн бұрын
How do you protect drip tubes from squirrels and rabbits?
@dripdepot 6 күн бұрын
And raccoons! Great question -- The easiest and most inexpensive way is to provide them with an easier source of water -- if they don't have to chew through lines to get a drink, they won't, they always prefer the easiest source. If it's your mainline they're chewing into, the mainline can be safely buried (so can emitter line, typically under a layer of mulch, but mulch might not be enough to deter them). There's also a solution that can be injected into the lines that deters them -- it's non-toxic to plants and animals, it just makes the water very unappealing to them. The primary ingredient is castor oil, so they won't want anything to do with it. Flushing the lines after use can also help since it drains the water, which is what they're usually after. With all that said, I've had the best luck by just providing other water sources, even a bird fountain will keep a lot of them from going after the water in your lines.
@MichaelW166 7 күн бұрын
I could listen to this guy narrate my life. So majestic like on the same level as Sam Elliot or Morgan Freeman. Thanks for the explanation this is just what I needed for my drip irrigation system
@dripdepot 6 күн бұрын
Michael, thank you for the comment! This is by far the best one I've ever received -- to even be mentioned in the same sentence as either of those distinguished gentlemen is pretty much a career high. Thank you!
@maddymiller2646 7 күн бұрын
13:58 Is it better to terminate the emitter tubing back into the head row of blank poly rather than with a goof plug? Wouldn't that decrease the pressure required as long as the run isn't too long?
@dripdepot 7 күн бұрын
In most cases it's best to terminate the run in a cap or plug -- looping it back into the mainline often just uses more material for no benefit. Looping style systems do have benefits on large irrigation systems, but on smaller low pressure drip systems there really is no benefit and can increase costs due to the extra material usage. :)
@maddymiller2646 12 сағат бұрын
@@dripdepot Thank you! I have been puzzling over that for a while.
@mnchnn 7 күн бұрын
Hi, there are 24 types of pressure regulators on the drip depot website. I’m not sure what the difference is. I plan to connect b-hyve XD one outlet timer to 50 plant pots with a mix of 1/4’’ drip line and adjustable drippers on stake. Would be grateful for any advice
@dripdepot 7 күн бұрын
So far from what you've described (running from a timer connected to a hose bib to irrigate 50 pots with 1/4" drip line and drippers on a stake), you'd be best served by a 25 PSI hose threaded pressure regulator. If the above is correct, this one here would serve you well for many years to come and requires no additional adapters to get connected to other hose threaded connections: www.dripdepot.com/3523 I hope this helps! Don't hesitate to reach out if any other questions come up, happy to help :)
@mnchnn 7 күн бұрын
Thank you for the prompt reply!
@dripdepot 7 күн бұрын
@@mnchnn Any time! :)
@prlily 7 күн бұрын
Thanks for this awesome installation video! I had a few questions and they were all answered - except one. I'm planning on setting up a system for 9 raised beds. I want to have this in place above ground for a garden season to make sure it suits my needs. Then I want to sink it under ground, under the garden path wood chips. My questions is this - is it fairly easy after a year to replace mainline tubing from the bottom of the raised bed to the top - so, exchanging an 8" tube with a 10-11" tube? Is it difficult to replace the tubing with the barbed Tees and Elbows? Thanks!!!
@dripdepot 7 күн бұрын
You bet, this is generally pretty easy to do -- if you're using barbed insert or Perm-Loc fittings, removing the tubing from one of them isn't too bad (easier with Loc style than with barbed insert, but both reasonable to do). If you don't need to remove a fitting to make the change, you can simply cut into the tubing where you'd like to add a new fitting and just splice it in to run you new lengths. If you're using compression fittings it's still not too bad -- they are generally regarded as not re-usable, but you can cut them out, add in a new coupling and run your new length from there. All in all, I think you'll have a pretty easy time of it -- drip irrigation is often referred to as "modular" -- in this case it's not just a marketing term, it really is quite modular and pretty easy to add on to and expand at any time. When the time comes for you to make some changes, don't hesitate to drop a line with any questions, we'd be more than happy to assist :)
@lisapearson78 8 күн бұрын
Very helpful.
@dripdepot 7 күн бұрын
Thank you for the nice comment Lisa!
@juliepoolie5494 8 күн бұрын
When you turn the water spigot on, do you open it all the way ? Or just partial?
@dripdepot 7 күн бұрын
Best to open it all the way in most cases. The pressure regulator will regulate the pressure down if it's too high, and having it fully open allows for all the flow to be available for your irrigation system. :)
@omnibe 9 күн бұрын
My wife and I watched your videos and just finished installing one of your systems. We are having a loud low hum inside the house while the system is running. Any advice to fix this issue?
@dripdepot 7 күн бұрын
Does the sound persist the entire time it's running? First let's check to see if it's a trapped air issue -- the turbulence from air can cause a humming (or even hammering) sound at time. To bleed the system of air, remove one of the end caps on the system and just let water run for a few moments -- this will generally allow trapped air to escape. If you can, also pin down the source just in case the hum is coming from one of the head assembly (backflow preventer, pressure regulaor, etc) components :)
@mnchnn 9 күн бұрын
I needed some advice about the different kits. I have 60 pots with individual plants..which kit size would be best suitable roughly?
@dripdepot 7 күн бұрын
The Premium Container Kit (at this link: www.dripdepot.com/124) would probably be the best place to start -- that kit is designed up for up 70 plants of varying sizes. A few more plants than you have, so you may be able to modify the kit to remove additional items you don't need -- most of it just making sure there's enough mainline tubing to get from your water source to your furthest plant, and enough fittings to accomplish your design (mainline elbows for 90° turns, tees if you need to split the tubing anywhere, etc). If it's helpful, here are a couple same designs we made for our container kits -- scroll down a little bit to get to the larger ones that use the 1/2" mainline for more plants: help.dripdepot.com/support/solutions/articles/11000119079-container-garden-sample-layouts I hope this helps!
@mnchnn 6 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot thank you!
@otterluv4941 9 күн бұрын
You forgot to mention one of the most important things included in orders - tootsie pops! It made me laugh the first time I ordered from you all, but dang was it lovely to sit down with a tootsie pop and a glass of ice water after installing my drip system :) Not to mention that the parts I get from you all are excellent - the tubing is easy to work with and punch holes in, the spray emitters fit perfectly and work. Since I discovered you all, I don’t buy from anyone else.
@dripdepot 7 күн бұрын
If we mention the Tootsie Pops too much they won't' be a surprise! My favorite is the chocolate ones -- never thought I'd enjoy a chocolate Tootsie Pop until I tried one, now I have problems saying no to them lol. Thank you for the kind words, truly! What a great way for me to start the week down here on Monday. Happy gardening out your way! :)
@melissadavis5954 10 күн бұрын
Is drip tape PVC? I want to stick with polyethylene
@dripdepot 7 күн бұрын
Though manufacturers don't like to share the exact recipe with us, I can confirm it is not PVC and is going to be mostly Polyethylene for it UV resistance and molecular stability :)
@roguepetunia 10 күн бұрын
Good info. Thanks
@dripdepot 10 күн бұрын
You bet, any time!
@brianchrisman4331 10 күн бұрын
Will this thing reduce the flow to my drip garden beds? I have about 18 gpm from my water pipe. Then I will run it through a valve and a 10 psi regulator. I figure with the ammount of drip tape I have then I'll be needing 6.8gpm. Will I be ok with a fert injector installed after the regulator? And I don't want to always use fertilizer, so will everything work properly if I remove the intector and tubes but leave the venturi device attached? Or is this no ideal in this type of installation?
@dripdepot 10 күн бұрын
I think you're on the right track :) Like any fitting or adapter, some loss will be incurred by adding it to the head assembly. It's fairly small in its overall length and has a fairly standard channel size (for 3/4" hose bibs) for water to pass through, so it does not cause significant losses. You mentioned passing it through a valve -- is this going to be a solenoid valve? If so, you might want to look into the EZ-Flo Mainline Dispensing units -- the EZ-Flo in this video is designed to operate from a hose bib -- though it can operate downstream of a solenoid valve on a run of pipe or tubing, it's going to take a few additional adapters to get it installed inline since the adapter itself is hose threaded. The mainline dispensing units use a PVC coupling valve instead of a hose adapter -- they're also a bit larger and the additional capacity might come in handy with a 6.8 GPM system flow rate. Unfortunately we haven't made a video for the mainline units yet, but it works very similarly -- just install the adapter (PVC coupling valve in this case) on the irrigation system, fill the tank with fertilizer, and pressure differential will do the rest. In regards to not always wanting to use fertilizer, that should be no problem with either injector (hose or mainline) -- they both come with coupling valves on the tubing that connects to the inline adapter. When you don't want to inject nutrients, you just turn those valves to their off positions, no need to remove the unit or inline adapter. Here is a link to the mainline dispensing systems so you can check it out, just in case it would be better for your application: www.dripdepot.com/main-line-dispensing-system
@brianchrisman4331 10 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot Yeah I looked at the mainline ones, unfortionately the cost is huge vs the hose ones. I just won't use it enough to justify the extra cost (ntm like a dummy I already bought the wrong type regulators so I have hose threaded ones already). So I was wondering If I cld make a 2.5g one work in a pinch. And yes it'll be downstream of a solenoid switching valve
@dripdepot 10 күн бұрын
@@brianchrisman4331 You bet, I do think you can make the 2.5 gallon one work :) You'll need a couple adapters, but that's fairly normal either way and shouldn't cause any issues -- the channel is short enough that the smaller 3/4" size shouldn't incur any significant losses unless this is a very high flow zone (I wouldn't anticipate heavy losses in the adapter from 6.8 GPM). If you're not using the "Fast" setting on the dial it should empty out at a reasonable rate too, so you won't have to be constantly re-filling it. I can also confirm downstream of the valve is the right place -- this one's not rated for constant pressure, so you're doing it exactly right having it after the control valve. :)
@brianchrisman4331 10 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot awesome, thank you for the assistance!
@brandonletzko2472 10 күн бұрын
Can you drive over the mainline and drip tape?
@dripdepot 10 күн бұрын
Great question -- layflat manufacturers are of two minds about this -- some say it can be driven over, some say it cannot -- though, all agree, never do so when pressurized. In general I would try to avoid it, particularly if there are any fittings installed in the wall of the layflat -- while damage from driving over it is a fairly low probability (unless we're talking heavy equipment), if it has fittings installed then the odds of damage sky-rocket. Basically this one is a case where it's frequently done (I've done it myself on a friend's farm when making our metal raised bed video!), but do so cautiously and know that damage is possible, even if the odds are on your side. Drip tape I'd never drive over -- even very thickest walled drip tapes are still only fifteen-thousandths of an inch thick (15 Mil) -- while this makes it great for transportation, storage and easy to install, the very thin walls also make it easy to damage inadvertently. :)
@brandonletzko2472 10 күн бұрын
Thank you for answering so quickly and thoroughly!
@brandonletzko2472 10 күн бұрын
Do you have, or can you make, a video on irrigation for small tree farms….e.g. Christmas trees, fruit, etc? Being spaced 5-6’ for Christmas trees and 15’ or so for fruit, I assume drip tape is not the way to go. Also, sometimes these have pretty long runs, not necessarily nice squares. These are often on slopes as well. Thanks!
@dripdepot 10 күн бұрын
We do actually have a video showing the installation of a tree irrigation system (located here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJyqhYuofNCWiK8). The system we made in the video is fairly small, but it is scalable up to larger systems with a few small changes (larger diameter main/laterals, potentially zoning, etc). The one potential issue with the system in the video is that it's not necessarily ideal in locations with topographical slopes, though this depends on how significant the elevation changes are. Low points in systems with elevation changes will emit more water than at high points since the emitters are not pressure compensating -- if the elevation change is slight, the volume released won't be too different, but if it's enough of a difference the increased pressure could be detrimental (and water can sometimes drain at low points if the low point is under enough pressure). Any rough idea on what the elevation difference would be between the water source and the lowest point trees? With that we can determine how much additional pressure those locations will be under :)
@brandonletzko2472 10 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot thanks again for quick response. I’ve seen that video but the process seemed too labor intensive for 1000-2000 trees spread over 2 acres 🙂. I’ll keep studying the options. Thank you!
@dripdepot 10 күн бұрын
@@brandonletzko2472 I do agree, at a couple thousand trees it would be pretty labor intensive -- sore fingers wouldn't even begin to describe it :) Another option often used for trees are Microsprinklers -- by comparison, the labor would be minimal in just punching a hole in the mainline, inserting the barb on the microsprinkler and then pushing the stake in near the tree. If you were wanting to stay on direct soil application (drippers), you could consider pressure compensating drip tape (very high cost for that right now though) or even potentially just running poly tubing down the row and punching in pressure compensating drippers at the trees. The labor time (and material costs) would be reasonable and you'd get the benefit of having pressure compensating emitters so that low-point drippers would still be emitting volume very close to high point emitters.
@brandonletzko2472 10 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot thank you!
@crescent_asuna 10 күн бұрын
By far the BEST guide I've seen for anything ever. I don't consider myself handy, but it seems that it was just due to mediocre/poor explanations in the past! This makes the set up seem so simple. Thank you so much for this; I almost gave up on drip irrigation!
@dripdepot 10 күн бұрын
Thank you for the kind words! What a great way to start Friday morning over here :) If any questions come up while you plan and install your system, don't hesitate for a second to reach out, I'll be happy to assist!
@benlorenzo1966 11 күн бұрын
I like all this. concerned about all that plastic coming of the tap - i'll break that in about 20 minutes - there's no way that would hold up on my small farm - is the regulator mountable??
@dripdepot 11 күн бұрын
Rigorous conditions on an active farm setting is definitely something to account for, good call! The regulator could potentially be mounted in a number of ways, what did you have in mind to mount the regulator to? Also, would that be primarily to protect it from damage? The reason I ask is those Senninger regulators are exceptionally durable, we've seen them them last decades in some pretty harsh environments. :)
@T_P_W_ThachoZenjuan 11 күн бұрын
Note: The battery operated timers die quickly in high heat/direct sun. Approximately a 3-6 month life span in places were temps reach over 100F consistently as well as batteries depleting quickly. I recommend to use a back up if lives depend on this timer. Probably have a human check up on them if you can't. ❤
@dripdepot 11 күн бұрын
This is absolutely true -- we didn't mention it in this video, but 100%, any timer with an LCD screen should be placed in a shady spot if it all possible -- if not possible, some kind of cover, shade or enclosure should be used to protect it. Great comment, thank you!
@user-fv9xn3zw5u 11 күн бұрын
I am in SC. You dont bury the line? Is it that freeze resistant?
@dripdepot 10 күн бұрын
It is indeed that freeze resistant! At least so long as the lines are drained -- we generally just gravity drain them with some end caps at low points though, you don't even necessarily need a compressor. Poly tubing actually got its start in the US up in the Northeast due to its freeze resistance (it's fairly popular in Canada for the same reason). It has a "bend but don't break" property you don't see in a lot of other pipe/tubing types due to their rigidity. I hesitate to share this anecdote because I always want people to winterize properly, but one time we filled up some poly tubing completely full of water and capped both ends -- we then put it in the freeze for a few weeks, and it came out completely undamaged -- we were actually hoping for damage for our winterizing video, but were out of luck. To anyone reading this, don't let that keep you from winterizing! :)
@taheranasreen8517 12 күн бұрын
Excellent description
@remohor 12 күн бұрын
This looks really great! Thank you for sharing!
@dripdepot 12 күн бұрын
You're very welcome! If you decide to start planning for a drip system, let us know, happy to answer any questions :)
@tsjgnlnl 13 күн бұрын
I see that you used the same drip line for the place that has the most sun and the side that has less sun. In the video you said you were going to use 1GPH for the sunny part and 0.5 GPH for the less sunny part. How did you get the 1GPH and 0.5 GPH flow rates with the same 12" drip-line which would be 0.5 GPH.
@dripdepot 13 күн бұрын
The two drip line look identical, as the emitters that are responsible for controlling most of the output, are inside the drip line. Even the emitters are going to look very similar other than small (and probably difficult to see) differences in orifice size and flow path. There is one more way to account for sunny vs shady that we didn't mention in the video, and that's emitter spacing -- poly drip line like this is commonly available at 9", 12", 18" and 24" spacing -- this allows someone to go with a wider spacing on the side of the house that doesn't need as much water, and/or a closer spacing on the sides more exposed to the sun.
@tsjgnlnl 13 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot Ok. In the video he used a 1/2" mainline and 1/2" dripline with 12" spacing, didnt mention any other dripline being used thats why I got confused. I just ordered the foundation watering kit and it has 2 100' 1/2" drip lines with 12" spacing. I guess if i wanted a higher flow rate I could punch some additional holes in the dripline?
@dripdepot 13 күн бұрын
@@tsjgnlnl Yep, other than the mention at the start, I didn't mention the difference in flow rates again -- the video was getting pretty long at that point so we made some tough decisions in the cutting room floor. And you do have it right (and that's a great suggestion!), you can indeed punch in additional drippers between the ones in the dripline if you end up needing more water on the sunny side of the house.
@JesusistheonetrueGod 14 күн бұрын
I have 48 trees in two separate tree lines. Drip Depot here I come
@dripdepot 14 күн бұрын
If any questions come up during the process, don't hesitate to reach out, we'll be happy to assist :)
@JesusistheonetrueGod 14 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot Thank you very mich. If you noticed a couple of orders recently, 3 going to the same address, that was me.
@dripdepot 14 күн бұрын
@@JesusistheonetrueGod I did see a couple like that! Did all of yours get free shipping? If not, reply to me here with one of the order numbers so I can make sure, I'd hate for you to pay shipping on one of those when it otherwise would have qualified if it were all in one.
@JesusistheonetrueGod 14 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot One of my orders didn't get free shipping because it was just these two items: 0-200 PSI Pressure Gauge - Type : Dry Soil Moisture Meter
@dripdepot 14 күн бұрын
@@JesusistheonetrueGod Perfect! Found it and have issued a refund for the entirety of the shipping costs on that one :)