How to Install a Large Farm Drip Irrigation System (Complete DIY Guide)

[@jimmyfreudenberg8462]

Awesome video! This was the video I’ve been looking for. Just bought a blackberry farm and as someone with no prior agricultural experience- this was a nice unlock in understanding irrigation equipment.

[@dripdepot]

Sorry for the late reply, I was out of the office over the holidays -- back in and happy to help (and Happy New Year to you!). If any irrigation questions come up while you get the farm up and running, just say the word, I'll be happy to help :)

[@jimmyfreudenberg8462]

@dripdepot Thanks for the reply! And likewise - Happy New Year! Do you have an email? I’m trying to determine sizes of everything and would love to get your input. Took your recommendation and graphed out the farm which id like to send as a reference. If you guys deliver to NC you’ve made a customer out of me!

[@dripdepot]

@@jimmyfreudenberg8462 You bet! Here is the link to the "Contact Us" from our website (it goes to our email, I just avoid putting the email in comments so that bots don't scrape it): help.dripdepot.com/support/solutions/articles/11000049095-how-to-contact-drip-depot That link has both our email (and those emails come to my in-box) or a web form to send the email if you prefer that. And we do indeed ship to NC! We're based out of Southern Oregon so we can ship to any US state. :)

[@rhinorampage1807]

Very well put together video! Thank you!!

[@johnajah4752]

Thank you for sharing this information from Nigeria

[@dripdepot]

You're very welcome, thank you as well for watching!

[@rhinorampage1807]

I have a very similar set up but at a much smaller scale. I have done the math and will be flowing right around 120GPH to 22 rows of drip tape 16 foot long rows. (12 in and 6 in emitter spacing depending on the row, each emitter flowing .25gph.) 1) Would you suggest I use 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch poly as the main header pipe where from which each row of drip tape will take off? 2) Would you suggest I use the 3.6mm or 7mm take off adapters? 3) Would you suggest I use 15,20 or 25 PSI pressure regulator to maximize flow in this system 4) Is 150 mesh the most appropriate sized filter for drip tape? 5) Would you suggest instead of capping the ends of the 5/8 inch drip lines I connect (using take off adapters) to a footer row of mainline tubing (much like the header row) to maximize flow? Many thanks for the advice. I am about to put in a big order through drip depot and your videos have been invaluable in helping me to design the best system for my garden! Thanks Again!

[@dripdepot]

Happy to assist! 1. Friction loss (pressure lost from friction) is a mechanism of flow and line length -- your 120 GPH flow is well within the green for 1/2" tubing, but the needle could move to the red if that 1/2" line is particularly long. Let me know what its total length will be and I'll run it and the 120 GPH through the friction loss calculator to get you a good idea. 2. At 16' long rows in low flow drip tape, you'll be more than fine with the 3.6mm takeoffs. The 3.6mm takeoffs are good for up to to about 90 GPH (in a single run, perfectly ok if the system as a whole flows at a higher rate). 3. With 15 Mil drip tape, I prefer a 15 PSI regulator -- if all other factors are accounted for (not too much friction loss, adequate water supplied by the water source) pressure will be maintained and even throughout the system at 15 PSI (and it also helps protect the tape from high pressure, extending its lifespan). 4. You bet, 150 to 200 mesh is great for drip tape. Some tapes will allow for less, but a 150 to 200 mesh filter is right around the same price as a 130 mesh. If water quality is poor, that might mean more frequent cleaning, but still preferred over clogged tape. 5. Some do take this approach, but in most cases it just increases material costs to run another line without much tangible benefit (except in larger systems). And you're very welcome! Thank you too for reaching out with good questions -- you're definitely headed in the right direction. We're back in the office for the week, you're welcome to send any follow-up questions this way :)

[@rhinorampage1807]

@@dripdepot Wow, I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to reply and with such a thorough response. Yall are great! The total length for the main headline is only 50 feet long (feeding 22 rows, 16 feet long each). So I'll likely be alright with the half inch mainline, although I think I'll opt for the 3/4 mainline to accommodate for future expansion of the system. Looking forward to placing my order and getting the system up and running!

[@dripdepot]

@@rhinorampage1807 You're very welcome, any time! I genuinely enjoy talking irrigation (my background is actually in irrigation, not in making videos haha). Ok, 120 GPH going through 50' of a 3/4' main will only lose 0.2 PSI from friction -- that is a very minimal amount and still provides you room for a lot of expansion -- you could more than double your flow rate in 3/4" main and be good to go :)

[@EmilyFarr-cp9wq]

What would be the best way to connect a timer to an assembly like this? I can only seem to find timers comparable with regular garden hose. Are there any that are compatible with Layflat?

[@dripdepot]

You're on the right track, as indeed you'll want something different than a hose timer (one could technically be connected, but definitely not the best idea for a system of this size). For something of this size the best approach would be to use a solenoid valve and a controller -- the valve can be bought with a size matching the incoming line and can be threaded on right at the start of the head assembly before the pressure regulator and filter -- female threaded valves are common, so, on the filter side for example, the valve can just thread on. Then, you wire the valve to the controller -- a valve will typically have 2 wires, one a common wire that goes to the common port on the controller, and a station wire that goes to one of the station numbers on the controller (they'll be labeled inside). After that, it's just getting power to the controller -- battery operated controllers will just need batteries, indoor controllers often come with a plug-in transformer that can be simply plugged into a wall socket -- outdoor controllers (that are not battery operated) can be a little tricker as they typically need to be hard-wired to the house or facility electric. Here is a link to a valve that would have worked with the setup we did in the video so you can get an idea: www.dripdepot.com/pga-inline-plastic-residential-commercial-irrigation-valve-size-2-inch-fpt Here is a link to a list view of various controllers, the type that work with the above valve: www.dripdepot.com/controllers You'll see two types of controllers -- DC controllers are battery operated and require that the valve have a DC solenoid (all of which should be listed on every valve so you don't have to guess). AC controllers (plug-in or hard wired) will require an AC solenoid. Most valves, with the exception of a couple, come with an AC solenoid by default.

[@kyopetfarm4371]

Can you export a 1acre kit to Uganda? I would like 02 kits. Thank you for the illustrations.

[@dripdepot]

Unfortunately we cannot ship internationally at this time, however we have had customers in Uganda who use a US based freight forwarder or cargo agent for the international portion of the shipping. :) And thank you for reaching out, happy to answer any questions that come up!

[@kyopetfarm4371]

@dripdepot do you mind sharing the contact of the US based freight forwarder

[@dripdepot]

@@kyopetfarm4371 There's a bunch of them! And it's definitely worth shopping around as rates can vary quite a bit in the freight forwarding world -- I did a quick google search and got a ton of results (www.shipixy.com/air-freight-to/uganda -- aircargoglobal.co/shipping-to-uganda-from-the-usa/ are two of them that were top results). I'd google "freight forwarder US to Uganda" and reach out to some of them. Check their reviews as well to get an idea of people's experiences using them. It looks like at least a few of them offer free quotes directly through their websites as well. We can ship to any freight forwarder based in the US, it looks like one of those is based in California which is very close to our warehouse. :)

[@kyopetfarm4371]

@@dripdepot please make me a quote for drip tape for 01 acre with emitters @ 0.6 meter. From head assembly with timer to drip tapes...

[@dripdepot]

@@kyopetfarm4371 You bet, happy to whip up a quote! If you can, reach out to us via email from our Contact Us link here and fire over a parts list and we can get it turned into a PDF Quote :) Here is that link: help.dripdepot.com/support/solutions/articles/11000049095-how-to-contact-drip-depot The link has our direct email or a web form you can use to send us an email.

[@gatostanley4923]

Is there a backflow or antisiphon valve?

[@dripdepot]

On the large farm kits there is not -- largely due to every location having different requirements in regards to the type that can be used (and some will be pumped from non-potable water sources that won't call for backflow). When using it with a potable water source you'll still definitely want some backflow protection, but which type is usually determined by local water authorities (Anti-Siphon Valves, Pressure Vacuum Breakers, Reduced Pressure Zones, etc).

[@ShelteringFarm]

whats the green pads on your legs?

[@dripdepot]

Light weight knee pads :) I'm not down enough to need to the bulky ones, so went with the foam ones. Going to use the blue ones from now on though, they blend in with jeans better :)

[@ShelteringFarm]

@@dripdepot Thank you.

[@dripdepot]

@@ShelteringFarm You're very welcome! I just found the link to them if you were looking for lightweight ones (great if you're not down too much and need to walk around, light enough you almost forget they're there): www.dripdepot.com/foam-gardening-knee-pads

[@ShelteringFarm]

@@dripdepot Oh great. I really need it.Thanks . This can reduce my knee pain during gardening.🙏

[@brandonletzko2472]

Can you drive over the mainline and drip tape?

[@dripdepot]

Great question -- layflat manufacturers are of two minds about this -- some say it can be driven over, some say it cannot -- though, all agree, never do so when pressurized. In general I would try to avoid it, particularly if there are any fittings installed in the wall of the layflat -- while damage from driving over it is a fairly low probability (unless we're talking heavy equipment), if it has fittings installed then the odds of damage sky-rocket. Basically this one is a case where it's frequently done (I've done it myself on a friend's farm when making our metal raised bed video!), but do so cautiously and know that damage is possible, even if the odds are on your side. Drip tape I'd never drive over -- even very thickest walled drip tapes are still only fifteen-thousandths of an inch thick (15 Mil) -- while this makes it great for transportation, storage and easy to install, the very thin walls also make it easy to damage inadvertently. :)

[@brandonletzko2472]

Thank you for answering so quickly and thoroughly!

[@josiahkulwa34]

Congratulations

[@dripdepot]

Thank you Josiah!