I have the exact model that you are demonstrating

Unless the machine has been modified, it doesn't use a foot pedal. The speed control is done with the knee bar which is that shiny, metal bar assembly coming out of the front of the machine. There's a vintage Elna group on Face Book that can give you more detailed advice.

Yes...I've heard people say that you can often sand out a flat spot if it's not too bad. That's good to know. I recently picked up a gorgeous 1957 Supermatic that looks almost unused. Unfortunately, it's got a SERIOUSLY flat wheel that is likely beyond sanding.

@@DexRobinson you could try putting the wheel in boiling water for a while - it helps the rubber relax and go more or less back to shape. Then maybe sand the remainder out. That was my original plan, but tried just sanding a little 1st & that worked.

Great deal! Glad you found something useful in the video.

Like most things, these require very little maintenance...as long as everything is working fine :). The only regular maintenance that they normally need is a few drops of oil. They don't have belts to replace. So the routine is pretty much the same as it is for a simple machine. The biggest issue is with the rubber wheel at the end of the motor shaft which provides the friction connecting the motor to the drive system that makes the machine operate. These can last a VERY long time...decades. The problem arises when the machine is not used for a long time. When a machine isn't used, this rubber drive wheel can develop a flat spot which makes the machine noisy. Replacement wheels are available and there are videos showing how to replace it...but it is a very involved process. I have several Elnas which use this system. I make it a habit to turn the handwheel about half a turn every month so that the rubber drive wheel doesn't flat spot from sitting in the same spot.

@@DexRobinson Or as you showed in the video, take off the fly wheel when storing it. I'd probably use it when I go to Quilt Guild. I have several antique machines. My plan now is to clean them all up and get them into working order. And then I will make sure to make something with them on a regular basis. My 2 vintage and my Featherweight come regularly to Guild.

Score! Yeah..."average" people usually don't recognize what they have. I'm a thrift store junkie and my best bargains come from people who don't realize what they are donating and pricers who also don't realize what they are seeing :).

@@DexRobinson I would like to replace the power and foot pedal cords, recommend any website for replacement parts?

@@Damian-qd1cq How is this controlled? Standard method would be the knee bar (in my video) though some were converted to pedal use.

@@DexRobinson foot pedal and knee bar. I don't have the knee bar though. Thanks

It's a bit unconventional but quite easy, once you realize how it works. The machine doesn't have a dedicated reverse button like most machines. The reverse function is accessed through the stitch length lever. The graduations on the stitch length control have "0" in the middle then 1,2,3,4 going UP and 1,2,3,4 going DOWN. The upper half of the scale (which Elna describes as "4-0") sews in the FORWARD direction. The lower half of the scale ("0-4") sews in REVERSE. So it you want to do a quick back stitch, just temporarily move the stitch length control into the lower 0-4 scale...then move it back up for forward sewing.

Thank you. That is very helpful.

Well, there's bad news and good news. The bad news is that I'm not aware of where to find a manual for this machine. The good news is that most machines of this era adhered to a very predictable formula. The fundamentals of this machine are not significantly different than the workings of something like the common Singer 99K. The threading path for this machine is essentially the same as for virtually all mid-century straight stitch machines. The tensioner works the same, the stitch length lever is in the same place. The bobbin winder works the same as any old Singer. If you find a video or manual for a Singer 99k (and Singer manuals are free online), you should quickly figure out the Husqvarna. There will be minor differences but a bit of experimentation and common sense should quickly resolve them. Lubrication is the standard: any place moving metal pieces meet gets a drop or two of oil. The machines were designed to all be similar since it was assumed that ladies wouldn't buy new machines if they had to relearn everything and buy new accessories. They're kinda like cars...they all have their differences but the main controls are all the same :).

I purchased mine at a thrift shop recently. It seems to me that there is something wrong with the tension assembley. I was hoping to find a manual to help me determine what the issue is. The check spring on mine is sits on top of that little hook next to the tension dial. And the tension disks definitely do not release when the pressure bar is lifted. I'm sure it's an easy fix. I just need the info. 😊

Hey, I'm from Winnipeg. That's as Canadian as you can get :).

The overwhelming number of my machines came from thrift stores. Fact is, you need LUCK. Prices can be all over the place. I bought a Featherweight from a thrift store for $350.00CDN (about $265.00USD). That's high for a thrift store but still a good price. A few months later, I went to the SAME thrift store and found an IDENTICAL Featherweight for $90.00CDN ($68.00USD). You can't predict these things. Sometimes, you just need to catch a break.

Are you on Facebook? They have a Vintage Elna Sewing Machines group with an incredibly extensive file section. They have a couple of good looking Supermatic manuals on pdf.

Great deal. So, does yours have a socket with two prongs extending out? First, be aware that a proper replacement can be found on ebay and likely amazon among other online retailers. Let me give you an "unofficial" hint. And if you electrocute yourself, I'm not responsible :). Those prongs are close in size to the prongs on most standard electrical appliances. If you find an old extension cord, it is possible to modify it to fit. It's not ideal and not recommended...but it will allow you to run the machine. You may have to use a hacksaw to slightly open up the spacing of the two "slots" on the extension cord. And you may have to use a saw to open up the slots themselves because they are a bit smaller than the prongs coming from the machine. Again, not ideal...but it can be done. I had to do that for my Elna Grasshopper which, likewise, came with no cord

That's the fun of thrift stores. Sometimes you get lucky.

Wow...hard to believe I posted this 8 years ago. I still play. I'm a little better now :). Thanks.

Kevin Burns stated that he had remastered a number of episodes of LIS for VHS release (I have a few of the tapes...the look very good). However, much to his surprise, the remasters weren't used for the DVDs. Apparently they used some old, 1980s transfers for the DVDs. Go figure.

No Problem. If you look at your machine, right under the presser foot, you will see the "feed dogs" coming up from under the machine...right around where the needle enters the bobbin area. These feed dogs are the small devices with a "saw tooth" pattern that move or "feed" the material through the machine and under the needle. The feed dogs will come up, grab the material, move towards the back (pulling the material along) and then go down before starting the whole cycle again. If you raise your presser foot, and move the handwheel (by hand) you will see how the feed dogs operate if you look under the presser foot. In most cases, the feed dogs are in the raised or up position because this is required to feed the material through the machine for NORMAL sewing. However, there are some special operations where you DON'T want the feed dogs to feed material through the machine. If you are doing darning or embroidery, you usually want to move the material under the needle with your own hands. In that case, you LOWER the feed dogs so that they won't come up and grab the material.

@@DexRobinson Thank you !!!

Cams are a BIG score! Singer cams are a dime a dozen . Elna cams are hard to come by. I haven't had much luck finding them (for a reasonable price).

What name is the clone machine sold under?

@@dawnklauman1175 I only know of the japanese brand called super sew. I have one here, but it looks more like a 201mk2..

@@dawnklauman1175for example. Sears Kenmore machines are serious, and made in Japan..So many vintage machines out there!

@@dawnklauman1175I also have a japanese super sew / singer clone.

Here in North America. treadle belts are quite easy to buy. You can get them on amazon and they are pretty cheap. I see that even aliexpress sells them so that shouldn't be hard to replace. They are leather and I think you generally have to cut them to length and they usually have an included hook to join the ends.

@@DexRobinson This hook often broke the belt. I recommend using glue for shoes on the ends of the belt.

I have sanded down the pulley also worked well ..BUT you never see anyone advising to do that ..just replace it. Will see how many miles we get on the machine before we have to replace it

Let me know if you buy it. There are vintage sewing machine groups and a vintage Elna group on Facebook. It's not a complicated machine to use. The upper threading is simple (you can find the info easily online. Once it's threaded, it works pretty much like any other machine. Remember, this was made for the average housewife to use in the 1950s. See if the thrift store machine has any "cams". I didn't get any extras with mine...just what was in the machine. Elna cams are worth money so any extra cams would almost cover the fifty bucks :) .

Killer deal. I see them online once in awhile but I only found ONE in a thrift store. There is one for sale locally in the original cardboard shipping box...but they want $300 for it!

Hi, I am hoping you can explain something about this Elna I bought today. The hand wheel is frozen and when I removed the outer knob, behind it is the two washer type things and then another spoked notched part, looks to be held on with a pin. I don’t have that in either of the other machines I have owned. Are you familiar with this piece? Thank you.

@@novampires223 Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner but I'm not really familiar with this area so I'm kinda' stumped. There is a vintage Elna group on Facebook (I'm a member) and there are people there who are much more familiar with this than i am.

@@DexRobinson Is that a lot in your opinion, for such a machine? If it's only for 300 dollars I sure am not selling mine!

@@irmar No, it's not a lot...but it is more than I am willing to pay because the fun, for me, is finding things in thrift stores. $300 for a classic machine in it's original box is pretty good... HOWEVER, the problem with an old Supermatic is the rubber drive wheel. If that wheel has not moved in years, it will likely be flat-spotted and will be noisy and shakey. Supermatics need to run. So, while a boxed machine may appear new, it can have problems if it has just been sitting.

Ebay is a good source. The part that is most subject to wear is the drive wheel (sometimes called the drive pulley or friction wheel) which attaches to the motor shaft and makes the machine turn. You can also google the piece and find a seller who will ship to your location.