Google: "USB Power Connect+™ CR2032 Converter" at christmasloft also: "2032 Coin Cell Surrogate" Designed by RossGK Tangibles in Canada and: "Coin Cell (2032) Dummy Battery" by ottaross on Thingiverse and: "CR2032 dummy (coin cell fake)" by Black Owl on Printables and: "Fake CR2032 Battery" by Morcatko on Printables and: "Dummy CR2032 pcb" Oshpark Shared Projects by Elau and: "CR2032 dummy battery" by zAgT on Maker World
@pmmllc6049Күн бұрын
Hello have you ever heard of a smart slide projector or a slide projector that I can connect to a smart tv with a cable. My mother is 93 and has a bunch of slides and I would love to be able to play them on the tv for her.
@kevinh9611 күн бұрын
I know this is an ancient video but if anyone has one of these TVs the reason you get interference and have to "wiggle" the cable to get any video is because these TVs use a three pole TRS 3.5mm mono AV cable not a four pole TRRS stereo AV cable. In fact a standard 3.5mm to two phono stereo cable will work as they have a three pole 3.5mm jack on one end and two phono on the other, if you don't get video at first swap the phono connectors around on your source.
@overhaxcs214 күн бұрын
I´m waiting for a new video of your house.
@DavidWatts12 күн бұрын
Sorry mate, won't be for a while, I've run out of money to do the kitchen. Might make some shelving in a couple of months but the rest is pretty much done.
@DavidPalin18 күн бұрын
Is it possible to have a second button that reverses the count? So, button one counts forwards 1,2,3...and button 2 counts backwards...3,2,1.
@DavidWatts17 күн бұрын
Not with the 4017 that I can think of, but if you took a CD4510 (it has an up/down pin) connected to a CD4028 to do the BCD to decimal conversion, I think that would work.
@thatdecadeАй бұрын
I'm here because I saw the TimeCapsule AirTag 10-Year Battery, and thought that's silly. I can just make one.
@Joey-wq7iwАй бұрын
Fisheye Lens, Earth is flat.
@JFBERNAL1Ай бұрын
Battery % of charge is a key issue that is not discussed, along with new keys that are not addressed.
@DavidWattsАй бұрын
Well it lasted 4 years, long in the bin now. These days I would have replaced the battery or upgraded it.
@ShemaiahMarkАй бұрын
Bro you didn't even leave the earhts atmosphere and the curve was visible...lol..😂
@bharatshetty9560Ай бұрын
I found a link to use the solder paste syringe. kzbin.info-0bUjPpXF7U?si=PYqAkcPPYC4QowDI
@thombazАй бұрын
I used to watch your chanel, but I forget your name... so here I 'm after about 6 years. :D
@DaveAmphlett12 ай бұрын
Super simple youtube short for how to mitre the different width pieces: kzbin.info1vC2ZbgZ2jU?si=42Hc7NN26HkYoMuI
@0x574c2 ай бұрын
The janky in-between values (3 -> 1 -> 4) are mechanically inevitable unless they were to use grey codes instead of binary. Even then, the transition from 9 to 0 would still be rough. Also a shame the up button is down and the down button is up! Still, very cool devices, and a great clear demonstration.
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
Interesting, I should have taken one apart to fully understand the sequence and where the wiper overlap was. Thanks.
@0x574c2 ай бұрын
Going from 3 (0011) to 4 (0100) requires changing 3 bits. But it’s impossible to build an infinitely precise mechanical device, so it’s impossible to make it truly simultaneous. One of those bits will change first, then another, then the last. If you rotate slooooowly enough, there are actually two undefined states between 3 and 4. Not a huge problem here, since the counter jumps thru the undefined states and settles where the signal is reliable. Rotary encoders could stop anywhere, though, so they use a really clever pattern called a Gray code where only one bit changes at a time.
@michaeltempsch52822 ай бұрын
Wayyy too long ago I used rotary hex switches (same idea but twist knob instead of buttons, and 0-F) as inputs for an XR2240 programmable timer IC, as base for a darkroom exposure timer.
@matambale2 ай бұрын
I have a great affection for those switches, and I'm not sure why. I'm convinced they're very clever, even though their construction is straightforward. Once you stare at the switch contact pattern, it all makes sense - a binary counter in metal.
@AJB2K32 ай бұрын
Did you buy them to make a resistor decade box?
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
Possibly, I thought that too but not sure why I would have picked the BCD variant.
@AJB2K32 ай бұрын
Cool looking things
@bernt65002 ай бұрын
How would i read these out with a microcontroller without wasting a lot of pins? Looking foward to your soltion.
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
For a single thumbwheel switch? I would use an analog pin on your micro. Add a 1k to the first pin, 2k to the 2nd, 4k the 3rd and 8k to the 4th. Then bring them all together with a 10k to ground. It should create a resistor divider you can read reliably. For multiple you could use the same approach but add a shift register to alternate which common pin is getting power.
@bernt65002 ай бұрын
@DavidWatts I always forget about this resistor divider technique. It sounds like a cheap and simple solution! When having multiple switches I was thinking of some sort of ic like an io expander. I guess that would be kind of overkill.
@TheEmbeddedHobbyist2 ай бұрын
These come from an era where uP had full 8bit ports so you could multiplex quite a few to one port. 4 bits for the switch and 4 bits for the multiplexing. the thing we did before charley.
@simontay48512 ай бұрын
I like that you didn't use the attiny. Code makes my head hurt. I wouldn't know where to start. Using a 555 and a decade counter is easy and straight forward. You just built it and it works. No messing about with code.
@ale8oneboy2 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing David! I'm seeing these as an alternative to Doc Brown's key pad for setting time circuits.
@typxxilps2 ай бұрын
good to see that you are back from the renovation or rather restauration project !
@ChunkySteveo2 ай бұрын
Those are cool AF! So if you daisy chain the clickers - do they increment the next one after 9?
@TheEmbeddedHobbyist2 ай бұрын
there is no mechanical connection between then in normal thumb wheel switches.
@michaeltempsch52822 ай бұрын
Not normally, as there are up/down buttons for control of each individual digit (the 1s, 10s, 100s, etc) and usually quicker to set them individually instead of hitting the lower digit repeatedly (spreads the wear too)
@jerril422 ай бұрын
Nice, I have something like those in my pile of maybe one day I'll have a reason to use it pile. It will be fun to see some interesting ideas put into practice. Thanks David. Take care.
@romaczech752 ай бұрын
You're too handsome-mansome to not be on camera & we need a house update please. 😁
@oskimac2 ай бұрын
Uno de los regresos mas esperados de youtube!
@Stuart-AJC2 ай бұрын
Great to see you back. I bought a load of those LED filaments a couple of years ago, can't remember why, but you have given me an idea...
@sophiaTLadida2 ай бұрын
I just found one of those at my father's stuff. Must be a previous model than yours here. I had to search the internet to be sure i am operating it well, the quality is really bad, faded i mean :D Your MKII is much better, hehe (p.s. i didn't change the bulb, so there was a smell in the room from first seconds, too much heat)
@mikolaj87762 ай бұрын
Isn't it easier to solder wires directly to pcb? Maybe flat ribbon cable would be a better solution for more build-up products ?
@c0mputer2 ай бұрын
Can I choose 1MHz instead of 8 for the clock speed? Is it as simple as choosing 1MHz and then burning the boot loader?
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
Yup, exactly that. It'll still be programmable after but you'll need to remember the settings or you'll have to burn the bootloader again I think.
@c0mputer2 ай бұрын
@@DavidWatts Great thanks again!
@marcus_w02 ай бұрын
Welcome back, Dave! How about another gofundme for the camera you wanted? I still got the $53 saved up :) You let my intrusive thoughts win with this one - this was something I wanted to try for years, but never got around to it.
@meagrebones2 ай бұрын
That was great. Wonderful to see you back not covered in plaster dust.
@BlitzCityDIY2 ай бұрын
david! i had missed your videos. fantastic journey through this project. i've used the LED noodles a couple of times too and they're so fun.
@andymouse2 ай бұрын
Not lost the knack of building crap I see ! Nice. Edit:- you have TTP 233 on the silk but fitted a TTP223, I have used these boards a lot myself and don't know the difference ! do you ? Very neat project but I imagined the lighting behind the scales or above to highlight them but great result either way !
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
I am sure my fat fingers knew what to type but were fighting against me, definitely the 223 ;) Crap is basically my brand.
@andymouse2 ай бұрын
@@DavidWatts Lol ! both numbers are for the touch switch !
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
same pinout?
@andymouse2 ай бұрын
@@DavidWatts Wish I hadn't looked but yeah 6 pins same function ! Its late so my head hurts but TTP223 BA6 is the same as TTP233BA6 lol
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
🤣 I doubt I will ever really know what version I got from Aliexpress tbh
@uwezimmermann54272 ай бұрын
about bad crocodile cables: check if yours are magnetic - not the clips but the cables themselves. I have several batches of these with copper-colored, magnetic wires.
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
Weird, a quick test of 4 and 2 of them are very attracted to a magnet. I assume they must be copper coated steel.
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
Maybe I should just buy some nice wire and rebuild them, I only need red and black tbh
@uwezimmermann54272 ай бұрын
@@DavidWatts at least it's not copper-clad aluminum...
@uwezimmermann54272 ай бұрын
@@DavidWatts I found it out by accident in a lab with my students, when suddenly the cable attached itself to a neodymium magnet... I was quite surprised
@noggin732 ай бұрын
Yeah a nerd video!
@c0mputer2 ай бұрын
Noob here, you don't mention what resistor you used when you connect the LED. Does it matter? Edit: I didn't add a resistor and it still worked fine.
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
I usually opt for a 470 ohm resistor for almost all single LEDs on 5 volts.
@c0mputer2 ай бұрын
@@DavidWatts Thanks for the reply buddy!
@c0mputer2 ай бұрын
Great video but I'm getting an error when I upload Blink to the Attiny. "Compilation error: 'LED_BUILTIN' was not declared in this scope". Your Blink code doesn't look exactly mine. For example, I can't change the pin. It doesn't have that in the code at all. Fixed it: In the new Blink code where it says "LED_BUILTIN", replace that with "0". There are three instances to replace. - pinMode -digitalWrite high -digitalWrite low Hope this helps others.
@devttyUSB02 ай бұрын
You're back!! :D Nice project video, m8.
@Chickey3 ай бұрын
Great to see you getting stuff out again 🙂
@CezarySiw3 ай бұрын
Nice work. If you took a binary counter like CD4060 and use a resistor ladder, you could avoid diodes and have 4 steps with 2 resistors, 8 steps with 3 resistors fitted or up to 16384 steps (I know it's crazy) when 14 resistors used (it's basically a DAC)
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
That's a lot of button presses to get to my idea brightness level of 1337 ;)
@DustinWatts3 ай бұрын
A video by a Watts. You've beat me :) No serious, great to see a video by you. A fan from day one and still am! Question, are there longer ones? Can you put them in series without a bit gap?
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
I assume you could put them in series, not sure about different colours in series thought, they would have a different forward voltage, not sure what effect that would have. The are all rated as 3v but from a little testing that isn't true.
@DustinWatts2 ай бұрын
@@DavidWatts I would stick to one colour so that is fine. Another thing I found on Ali, is similar as and LED strip. But, 4mm wide and 1,5mm high. And cheap! 5m blue €16,45 I expected way more because it it also very flexible. I'll order some and make a video.
@Heisenberg20973 ай бұрын
Nothing beats the glow of VFDs or true neon!!! You succesfully ruined the natural beauty of a truly handcrafted piece of art!
@DavidWatts2 ай бұрын
You are right, plus the addition of electricity and an indoor toilet is an abomination in my 130 year of house. I'll rip it all out asap.
@boltvalley30763 ай бұрын
Thank you I needed it for the mouth of the robot, please tell me what do I need for series of two strips, how to buy them.😊 please so I can control on and off when L.E.D when connect to the speaker Can I buy your chips online or how much are you willing to selling it. Please can I use for the project please. Many thanks
@michaeltempsch52823 ай бұрын
The 555 internals are basically 2 op-amps with one input of each tied to the midpoints of a 3 resistor ladder/voltage divider, giving them ⅓ and ⅔ of the supply voltage respectively. The outputs of the op-amps go to the inputs if an SR-latch, output of the latch is buffered for better current handling. Using the 555 then comes down to controlling when/how the other inputs of the op-amps get to above/below ⅓ and ⅔ Vcc in order to flip the op-amp output / change the inputs of the SR-latch. There's also an input to force a reset of the latch independent of the state of the op-amps.
@UnexpectedMaker3 ай бұрын
I wasn't sure how it was going to turn out, but it actually looks fantastic! Congrats on getting back ON the wagon :) I look forward to seeing what you do next - once you recover from this one ;)
@upperairs3 ай бұрын
needs more bodge wires :) Welcome back!
@Steve_Coates3 ай бұрын
The balance scales brought on some nostalgia, I used the identical model several times a day when I started out as a lab technician fifty years ago. I'm quite envious that you have one in excellent condition.
@pileofstuff3 ай бұрын
I've always enjoyed playing with the pairing of a 555 and 4017, but this is a combination that I've never encountered. What a cool implementation.