what brand is the vacuum table?

Great video. I have the 12/16, I like the spindle lock gizmo you’ve got there. Are you selling those ?

Awesome tip, i saw the video about 2 weeks ago, and what do you know, i get comissioned to make a propeller part that could only be done otherwise with a multimaterial setup. It took a few tries to get it right, but i made a beautiful part using an ender 3 thanks to you!

Great video, thank you so much.

Great. Keep testing.

Great idea. Gonna use it. Thanks. / Greetings from Sweden

Brilliant.. I was thinking to print in two halves and gluing it together but I like your idea better

Thanks for the lesson. It solves a lot of questions I had. Nice review.

Good information! I know a couple building a plane that might use that VC-3 threadmate.

Very cleaver!

what about appling high temperature kapton tape over the top of the blank? That way the material shouldn't stick?

wow, been 3d printing for over 5 years and never thought about this way, thanks for sharing a great video

That's cool! I wish there was a way to do this with ABS/ASA, if I made this with those materials and HIPS for the sacrificial core, I think they would fuse together.

I do this using ABS. I also usually stick a magnet on the core to keep it in place. But I only do this as a last resort. I would probably just split that in half and extend the screws you’re using to the back. But you’re right. I haven’t really seen this on KZbin. This a handy trick. It also leaves a perfect surface finish. Even on the top side of that bridge.

An excellent idea, one I'm sure I'll try at some point. Thanks for sharing. If I can add two suggestions for something you are going to use regularly. 1: Embed one or two thin magnetics in the core so it holds it's self down and 2: Add a couple of 'T' extensions at the narrow end that extend beyond the end of the main body, then it can't slide back and forth. But Hey it works great as it is!

Why can't you print it on it's side? I print thing on it's side all the time with no issues

Sounds like alot of "babysitting"!!! 😬 Why not instead us a UV Resin printer and print multiples with the base of the plate on edge attached to the print plate? 🤔 Heck! You could even use a translucent resin an backlight it with a Bi-Color Green/Red to indicate the enabled/disabled status of the machine circuitry?!

Great video, thanks for sharing (you have earned a ' creative award '. I have a need for this with a cubed block that can be taped in place and eliminate supports.

Pretty cool technique, not sure I have seen a reusable core done on 3d printer before but I have seen nuts and magnets inserted mid print so they get encased in the print. I have an DD IDEX printer I built so I usually just use a different material as the support or PVA if it's a complex PLA print. Depends on how many copies you're making I guess. If i't just a few your way is great but if I had to do a lot I'd probably split just the model in half to avoid supports and screw or solvent weld the two halfs together when done. Sadly no maker spaces near me to join, yours looks really nice, quite the setup you have.

This it’s simply brilliant ❤

What a simple but great idea! Definitely have to try this method out. I guess you can call this reusable supports? Saves a ton of material if you plan to print multiples of a part!

You kind of blew my mind with these two videos. Super clever and thank you for sharing!

What about gluing a layer of silpat to the core. You know, that stuff you use to line a cookie sheet so the cookies won't stick.

Corian makes awesome knife handles.

His name is Flipper! 😂

I've seen people use PETG as support material for PLA but never as a reusable core. That's really clever! Thanks for showing this off. I'll definitely remember it next time I'm in a similar situation since I hate cleaning supports.

Headline: "3D Printing without using supports!" Actual: I use petg for support material

Could have been a 30 second video.

I've already heard of using PETG supports for PLA or vice-versa, printing them with the AMS, but this is an interesting spin. The advantages are that it can copy the bed texture and the core is re-usable. I'd like to share my own idea (though, as you said, someone else might have already invented it). We could print supports of the same material, leaving a .2mm gap. Pause the print at the last layer before the gap, lay down painters tape on the gap, then resume the print. It's not practical for this shape, as you'd have to crop it and align it precisely, but perhaps there are other situations where it could be handy. I wanted to do this with a filament that was very sticky (PETG?) and couldn't make break-away supports work. They would either not come apart with a small gap or leave a terrible surface with a large one, as it was effectively printing in air. I cancelled the project, so I didn't get to try it.

At what stage did you use the Bambu glue? What did you apply it to? Thank you

That... is brilliant! I hope I can do it successfully.

I was thinking if a multihead printer like the prusaXL could be a good move to use here. But the bed temps for PETG and PLA are diferent, and on a textured plate the PETG can slip out of it's place if the bed is not 80°C

Why not print the front facing section in black? You can even add the text in white. Then it would look more like the original design.

Thanks! Great tip. I have used PETG as a support filament on relatively simple models, and it separates from PLA cleanly. However, it is a pain with a single nozzle system. Your method has helped me see the models a little differently, so now I design support blocks where I can, print with PETG, then print the model, pause the print, slide in the PETG support. It works really well.

I love it! Thinking outside the box. This is a technique that I will be able to use on some projects in the future. Thanks

Very clever idea. Good design.

Great idea! But I have had great luck using PETG as support material for PLA (or vice-a-versa) as you mentioned they don't stick together when printing and they just pull apart after printing. Easy to do with a multi-material AMS system.

can you add a .25° or .5° draft on the sides so your core will slide out easier ?

9:52 If your finished part can afford it , you could add a small locator tab / indentation in one side of the actual part (Y direction) & a mating feature in the core (maybe a semi circle or triangle) , it would make the core self locating (no tape needed) and foolproof on which surface is up. Love the concept very much though, I'm going to have to try it !!

Brilliant!

Which 15 idiots are giving this video a thumbs down? Some people are so ridiculous. Be happy that the good man is sharing his ideas with you and making the effort to make a video so that you don't die stupid. Very interesting technology. Good work my friend. Respect!!

Have you considered using embedded magnets to hold the core to the build plate? If you're making many parts that would speed the process up, and make it less fiddly. Using sets of magnets might also let you build up stacked cores at different levels to make complex cavities.

Great video and tip for saving support material when possible.

This is a great idea. Thanks!

Is there a GitHub/etc for other spaces to implement their own MACS?

This is awesome

Interesting idea!

Hi George, great idea, especially for Makers that don‘t own a Bambulab printer. One other question. Would it be possible to get more information about the Access Control System? I would like to control the access of our Makerspace at school for K12-students. Regards

Making PCBs at home is something I would really love to do, yet I have no idea where to start. Can you please show the flow from the beginning? what material is needed? What machines?

I'd think a quick dip in hot water to slightly soften the PLA would make the core much easier to remove.