@@AdamLomaro you're welcome

good luck to you. Little tip: video yourself if you can, that way if you're unsure of which way to re-assemble, you can watch the steps back. One thing I've become wary of is clearing blocked pilot jets. You really need to unblock them using an exactly calibrated micro drill, slightly undersize. Cleaning them with a piece of steel cable can over bore them. If you can, replace the pilot jets as they are generally too small to clear accurately. Watch out for the cheap chinese kit's, the jets are often unmarked and unless you have a set of jet sizers, they might be the wrong size.

My job next week 😂😂😂

@@clementsosnak9151 me too, but not this one. It had a plenum chamber above the carb and the rubber was brittle, you can't push the rubber up because there's a metal tube inside the plenum chamber. If you managed it with this particular model, good for you. Can you post up the video so that I can do it your way next time? Not sarcasm, I'm serious.

Never mind, Unless you're fitting apes to your VS1400 nothing to see here anyway.

@@ugh55 drill them and blam in a suitable torx, don't do the horrible bodge that was done to these. Give them a nice long soak with penetrating oil first and with any luck the needle ends don't snap off

it is. thank you

I've replied to you on email. Your trike will have the axle turned upside down. First ascertain; is your filler on the right, in front of the axle tubes, or on the right behind the axle tubes. You need to know this because some builders replace the tubes, and turn the diff casing 180 degrees so that the fill line is correct, some don't and the upside down filler plug will be about an inch too high, which fills the axle tubes with oil. Yes EP90 is good, fill to an inch below the thread of the filler plug. Bearings should be fully sealed, if they aren't, then fill them with grease but they should be double sealed.

@@rhinotrikes8004 thank you so much for all your help

@@bobpoulin8044 you're welcome, and thanks for sharing your experience. I'm sure there are a few tricks to fitting them, but the string is definitely the game changer. My reason for the stretching method was that I worried that the string might cut the rubber. I used silicone because it's safer on rubber than mineral based which can prematurely harden certain rubbers

@@sh839c I use Reliant diffs but I modify them extensively

Hi, we're working on a kit. We've tested a number of leading brands but have found them inadequate for the state of British roads. Generally, air assisted kits are fast but too weak, hydraulic kits and linear actuator based kit's are too slow. We're on about the 5th incarnation of a lever and hydraulic based system but still have wrinkles to iron out. The hand gear change solution is a tried and tested solution which we have absolute faith in. It's manufactured in the UK by a company called Kliktronic: [email protected] Their button operated gear change is around £1000

Hi, we're working on a kit. We've tested a number of leading brands but have found them inadequate for the state of British roads. Generally, air assisted kits are fast but too weak, hydraulic kits and linear actuator based kit's are too slow. We're on about the 5th incarnation of a lever and hydraulic based system but still have wrinkles to iron out.

You're welcome.

Ta

Yes, I did end up replacing them later and fixed the issue

I ride with 2 or 3 wheels. Two of my bikes that won't be getting a third wheel are my Victory and my Triumph, at least until I can't hold them up anymore. 😎

The music is only dubbed over fast forwarded sections which have no audio. If there's anything important, it will be at normal speed and won't be over dubbed. Thanks for watching and for the feedback

I've just watched it back and it is a bit distracting. I take your point and will avoid voice over competing with the banjo next time.

The rear pulley is bolted to the diff. The stainless cover houses the diff, you can see the diff carrier bearings in the centre on both sides of the pulley. Without a diff it would be practically unrideable.

The yokes are dimensionally identical across all 1400 models, there is a difference with the riser mounts, some have encapsulated rubber bushes with large (20mm ish) threads and nuts. Earlier models had 12mm bolts and top hat rubbers top and bottom. You can't swap these risers from one top yoke to the other but as long as you have the correct risers for the top yoke you have fitted, the distance between the bolts is the same. If you're in the UK, I have both sets of risers second hand.

@@rhinotrikes Hi bud many thanks again for your reply it is much appreciated, I just checked and both yokes have the large bolts and nuts and are identical in size and appearance the bike with the flat bars is a 1993 , and the yokes with the risers are off a 1991 model , both look identical except obviously for the risers but as I say the bolts and nuts are exactly the same type and size on the bottom , so going from what you are saying I take it they should be compatible then and I should be able to change the risers over if I'm reading what you said correctly I assume...?

@@karl53133 That's correct. I'm assuming that your bars are of the Boulevard type T bars which have no risers as they bolt straight into the top yoke. As long as your replacement risers are the same size bolts as fitted to the boulevard bars, they will fit. The alternative yokes are completely different and have top hat bushes (1/2 bushes) and a 12mm bolt, the two sets aren't compatible. The ones that don't fit have a slot in the bottom of the bars, where the wires come out. If your wires go through the risers and both models do the same you will be good to go. There are only the two types accross the whole range. From memory, I thought the Boulevard bars had the wires external and not through the risers.

@@rhinotrikes Cheers bud yes they both have the identical size and appearance bolt / treads of 20mm or so and nuts on both the bottoms of the yokes both have the holes and wires going through the bars and the risers so think I should be good to go , should get chance latter next week to change over. Thanks so much for all your advice and help as I have had around 17 bikes over the years but never a intruder or a v twin for that matter and have now lost contact with the people that would have known over the years or they are dead now ...!! So thanks again and I'll tell you how I get on when I do do it... All the best for now bud

Of course you could cut the wires and re-join them, but it's really not that difficult to remove the wires from the bars. There's very little clear loom between the bottom of the risers and headlamp, I think you'll have a nightmare to join, solder, and shrink wrap the cables when there's so little to work with.

@@rhinotrikes I agree think I will try the correct way as I said a silly idea really, hopefully I'll be doing it next week ...All the best and thanks again .

correct

The wiring is the most complicated bit. Try to remember how the wires are organised in the headlamp as it's critical to getting the light unit back together. The colour coding is quite obvious and logical, but pay attention to the yellow wire with the smoked plastic johnny on the end, it pairs with the bullet with the black tag. Note how the yellow, and yellow white wires join together, as they have splitters and can potentially be put back together wrongly, other than that, the colours match up sensibly.

@@rhinotrikes Most helpful thank you for taking the time it's much appreciated...All the best

Cheers bud, hope things go well

A really good Phillips no 2 is a must, I use no 2 bits with a tiny ratchet, tap the bit into the screws with a small hammer first to seat them and break out the thread, helps to avoid cheeseing the screw heads. Make sure you have a good range of flat head screw drivers for the jets so you don't Muller them, a snapped off small paintbrush to push out the main jet emulsion tubes and some interdental brushes to clean your jets. You might need a length of 0 Bowden cable too, separate the strands to unblock your pilot jets. Happy hunting.

@rhinotrikes I've got a little jet unblocking kit thing with a range of different sizes on it, so should be good there, flat heads I've got, so I'll order a good no 2 Phillips, appreciate the reply and help!

You're welcome

I did. They made the mistake of giving it back before they'd finished filming, I blackmailed them.

I have a face for radio 😎🤣

@@rhinotrikes haha

You don’t look a day over 62 Nick! 😂

Thanks 😄

I'm not sure which ones you mean but I guess it's the petrol feed tubes. If one is leaking, you won't be feeding fuel to one or both carbs on that side. It could also be the overflow pipes which would indicate a leaking float cut off valve, incorrect float height or a holed float

?

Believe it or not, this was only the second time I have done this. I've tried the loose rings and super glue way which was rubbish, I've bought the m&p diaphragms with limited success, I saw a guy trying to fit them by stretching them, but I never saw anyone solve the bit that won't go in. The string was my idea, adapted from fitting glass in classic cars. It really is just so easy.

Thank you. I still have the Suzuki Intruder jigs and I'm happy to convert your own Intruder 1400, I'm just not building Intruders for stock anymore.

It's for sale

Were can one get rear axle that would use motorcycle rear tires instead of auto...less weight needs less hp to perform Or is that a build it yourself only option?

@@reddmann2216 I guess a quad axle would be the answer. You'd have to make sure you had a diff though as most off road quads are solid axle

Nice one

Well, the heavy lifting has been done, we need to get our ducks in a row and get this one ready for market. Watch this space.