Hi my name is charlie alba I have a tie collection I love wereing my tie I my life it makes me feel like I am a business man and that is what I wanted to do have my own privit business to be a writer
@crisyorke13288 сағат бұрын
Just bought a Kiton Cashmere overcoat. It’s around 17k usd. Love it so much! Love double breasted overcoat!
@andrewrai575215 сағат бұрын
The suit Gaetano is wearing is just amazing, the fabric, the pattern and fit... aah! and he wears it fantastically as well! I'm American and I used to go to Brioni and other main stream fashion houses like Gucci for my suits till I started watching Sartorial Talks. Now In my next Italy trip I'll surely visit Gaetano's antelier.
@Rugia-ox7hxКүн бұрын
Shirt collar over a suit jacket will make a man look like a rube. Just get your suit altered by a tailor.
@achvald2126Күн бұрын
Thank you for the content. I am trying to find books about these topics, can you recommend good ones ?
@alivetilldeath8Күн бұрын
You lost me when you started swooning over failed cia operative anderson cooper.
@YolandaSaldivar4evaКүн бұрын
Rule #1: Emulate Hugo’s every mannerism and idiosyncrasy.
@andrewscott9610Күн бұрын
Rules of Civility was read by and applied by General George Washington.
@hendrikjanriesebos12932 күн бұрын
To fight moths: Leave your garment in the freezer for 4 days. Then keep it safe in a clean clothes bag. Also: lavender oil is disliked by moths, while I quite like the scent.
@SARTORIALTALKS2 күн бұрын
Are you sure about the freezer? For the moment I don't see myself leaving a Super210s fabric in my freezer!! Cheers, Hugo
@yurongjiang71253 күн бұрын
Hugo absolutely hates Hugo Boss. He brings it up whenever the opportunity arises haha
@SARTORIALTALKS2 күн бұрын
I don't hate them, I just think they are overpriced and not very stylish. Cheers, Hugo
@yurongjiang71253 күн бұрын
I watched everything here. Very educational. Thank you!
@hickorydickory4 күн бұрын
KIRBY IS ESPOUSING TRINIDAD CIGAR VIDEOS MADE IN CUBA,YET THE VIDEO SHOWS EACH CIGAR MAKER MAKING PLENTY OF THESE CIGARS IN A DAY YET, FROM CIGAR MAKER TO DOCTOR AND OTHER WORKERS IN CUBA EACH AND ANY. WORKER RECEIVES $15.00 A MONTH KIRBY IS MAKING MONEY OFF ,OF THESE SLAVES BAD BOY , KIRBY ACTUALLY, DISGUSTING
@shamelesscare53894 күн бұрын
I admire both of you very much. Thank you for everything you do for the well dressed worldwide.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Thank you so much for your kind words of encouragement! Hugo & Sonya
@NkululekoLeonardMatshaka-fr5vr4 күн бұрын
I love Italian especially their black
@Benaja_K.4 күн бұрын
love this moment, i've learned a lot in english
@hellenomousaion87364 күн бұрын
Thank you for your beautiful video! I would kindly ask you to make an extensive video specifically for monks traps. They are so en vogue these days so that they deserve a special edition just for them. Merci beaucoup!
@almeladze5 күн бұрын
Didn't Dunhill sell 2 pants in a suit for this exact reason?
@almeladze5 күн бұрын
What's wrong with looking like a banker in the 80s? Those were the normal times compared to now... And fashion rotates anyway
@avmelidor5 күн бұрын
My problem is the moth holes. Smh
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
I believe many people share this problem! Hugo
@avmelidor5 күн бұрын
Always illuminating and enlightening
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Thank you sir! Hugo
@johnray86996 күн бұрын
The waistcoat for me is essential..........comfort, style and temperature control especially in a job where I stand and move a lot. I never looked back after buying my first 3 piece suit ☕
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
I can relate to that John! Cheers, Hugo
@tzumulin6 күн бұрын
Very insightful, thanks for sharing, Hugo and Sonya. I truly appreciate it. Regarding the lower armhole issue, it is indeed true that prevention is better than healing. However, I happen to have a relatively cheap black funeral suit with sentimental value, making it hard to replace. And, of course, it has a lower armhole. The solution I found, besides restricting my posture, is that leaving the button open helps make the pulling less obvious as well. After all, if not in my situation, a fitted armhole is the way to go. Regardless, thank you so much for the invaluable and informative video.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Many thanks for your kind words! Best, Hugo & Sonya
@davidnorth93906 күн бұрын
Thank you for this informative, helpful, --and timely presentation!
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
With great pleasure David! Hugo & Sonya
@davidnorth93904 күн бұрын
"Timely," as I must deliver a speech this week, and you and Sonya addressed my EVERY concern about fit, fashion, and state of repair. Your enjoyable presentation provided me with advice that will boost my confidence. Thank you both, and best wishes for continued success! 0:06 e@@SARTORIALTALKS
@davidnorth93906 күн бұрын
About proper jacket-legnth: A sartorially wise, older gentleman advised that jackets "should cover nutz 'n butts"
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Nice one!
@blockavelli6 күн бұрын
I love that color suit Hugo!
@iradiakalenz42257 күн бұрын
Well, no wonder invisible menders are hard to find - they are invisible, after all.
@davidnorth93906 күн бұрын
Ha! I "saw' what you did there ;-)
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
You're right haha! Hugo
@fortunkooky7 күн бұрын
I'm a gentleman. I don't mind.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Haha, you're right after all!
@roarkbjorn23897 күн бұрын
The Bespoke Oxfords (alligator & calf) by Stephane Jimenez † absolutely beautiful
@gavindadds44147 күн бұрын
The button hole on the lapel is for a boutonniere. A big trend the last few years, where I live anyway, is to have fabric flowers to pin there, especially in a sport coat.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Yes Gavin. I would not say it's a "big trend", but it's a nice add-on. Cheers, Hugo
@JMalkovics8 күн бұрын
The "pinky method or little finger" I do exactly the same with my tailor, I simply place my hands on my tummy, the button line should be somewhere around, I needs to look "sprezzatura" effortlessly looking good and fitting good without me trying to hard. If the button it not near there then he adjust it as requested.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Wise man! Cheers, Hugo
@eton68738 күн бұрын
A very interesting video concept. Regarding the collar gaps, my initial thought is to try a different dress shirt collar style thats wider or to get a shirt that has a slightly longer collar. Unfortunately the small lapel trend seems to be extending to even shirt collars if you're buying fast fashion and big brand labels!
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Dear friend, I'm afraid the length of collars have nothing to do with the infamous collar gaps. As for the small shirt collars, it's a pandemic!! All my best, Hugo
@viniciusbenettigennari8 күн бұрын
Funny thing is, I never had problems with moth holes. Maybe they're not common where I live (southeast Brazil), or maybe it's because I keep a very minimalistic wardrobe, so there's no time for them to get cozy on my clothes.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
You're very lucky my friend! Count your blessings! Cheers, Hugo
@daudbangla8 күн бұрын
A bad suit is not about money, its for tailoring facts 💞
@bsk14604 күн бұрын
My suits are never "bad". The time I take when having a made to measure suit is well worth it. I will stand next to a suit made from a pattern any day. My buttons on the sleeves actually open and I add a Milanese button hole as a nice touch. Additionally, my waistcoat have a nice collar.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Indeed!
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
You sound like a lucky man!
@regisbarou49228 күн бұрын
Sony and Hugo look like pretty much the Same. Same hair cut, same glasses, same suit and ties.......almost twins
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Dear Regis, this is the first time I hear this!! But hey, if I look like my pretty wife, then I'm more than happy! All my best, Hugo
@CarmineFrenesi8 күн бұрын
Mr. Jacomet, my preference of the button Stance of the jacket should be Lined up with the waistband of the trousers
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
If this works for you, then you have your personal rule fo thumb! Cheers, Hugo
@gustafrenstrom85498 күн бұрын
the purple and dark blue shantung from the urban ties is just amazing. just ordered one for myself.
@olivierdelabarriere6229 күн бұрын
Dear Hugo, dear Sonia. I follow you channel since many years now, at the beginning in french, and now in french and english. You taught me the love of beautiful clothes and artisans (many neapolitan taillors, Zizolfi and Sabino). Although beautiful pieces, these clothes do not make me at ease when I wear them, I remain a jeans and basket man, when I dress up I feel like a white bear in Sahara! So my problem is not really to look good in bad suits, but not look too bad in good suits! For me that is the main problem I ask myself. Maybe a future video! But congratulations for your work in any case! Cheers
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Bonsoir Olivier, many thanks for your comment. Well, my buddy Bruce Boyer used to say that if a suit suits you, you should be able to fall asleep with it! I believe that in your case it's more a problem of perception than a problem of comfort. We'll speak about this for sure one day or another. Best wishes, Hugo & Sonya
@SimonChambers9 күн бұрын
Hi, Hugo and Sonya Glyn! Thanks for this video- it's always great to hear your thoughts on MTM custom makers. I've mentioned to you before and want to highlight again Mr. Cavaliere in Toronto, who I use for all my tailoring these days. He works with a factory in China, but makes fantastic suits and jackets for me very affordably. I know Sonya Glyn has seen several of the pieces I've had from him on my Instagram.
@inthezone41239 күн бұрын
I would think the main pocket issue pops up when a suit is shortened, the balance of the waist pockets can be thrown off.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Pocket placement is often overseen and largely misunderstood. Cheers, Hugo
@NationalParksArtist9 күн бұрын
I received a 50 year old tweed jacket from my Dad that had a moth hole in the shoulder, and I had a tailor stitch over it to stabilize the cloth, but the mend is visible. I consider it part of the story of the item, sort of a wabi sabi approach. I don't know that I'd want to do that with a more formal garment, but for something more casual like a tweed, I think it was the right choice for me.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
I agree with you my friend. Sometimes these little "scars" are beautiful (sentimentally wise). All my best, Hugo
@stedmays27689 күн бұрын
INFORMATIVE DISCUSSION, THANK YOU --- I WOULD PERSONALLY SUGGEST A WHOLE KZbin SEGMENT DEDICATED TO SUIT BUTTON POSITIONING. Your conversation on buttons was intriguing but I found myself wanting many more visual examples of correctly and incorrectly done buttons on various types of suit jackets ---- for example, tuxes (often one button), two button suit jackets, and three button suit jackets, and so on. I think this is one of the most misunderstood aspects of suit jackets, fit, tailoring, etc. In fashion, we learn as much from visuals as from conversation, yes? I found the few visuals you provided insufficient........anyway, thanks again, always enjoy hearing what you both have to say.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Button stance is, indeed, extremely important! Cheers, Hugo
@topowwow9 күн бұрын
Your videos are very interesting and relaxing at the same time, always a pleasure to watch 🙂 We don't get tired with details, many people appreciate them. Your attention to details is one of the reasons I like your videos 🙂 Waistcoats are very cool indeed, I collect them, both suit waistcoats and sportier ones (female here).
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Many thanks for your kind words of encouragements Madam! Hugo
@mowglir.32949 күн бұрын
It's absolutely true, this GuiBo guy has an Elegance that many don't have. He has a very particular style all his own. Associated with his elegant wife it forms the perfect combo.
@naderelshafei9 күн бұрын
My dear Sonya, we never get exhausted from you or Hugo at all ))), thank you so much for this unique topic full of small details. Actually its all about details in Sartorial world .Both of your outfits are amazing ,Much respect & Love from Cairo.
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
Thanks my friend! Hugo
@nickbreedt77629 күн бұрын
A always - excellent episode! You guys really rock! Thank you!
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
You're very welcome Nick! Cheers, Hugo
@teekue9 күн бұрын
Chicken Foot/Zampa di Gallina does not make the stitch stronger. It is purely aesthetic. Once it was a sign of handsewn buttons which is why the Italians especially were so proud to show it off but nowadays machines can imitate it as well. (For example Savile Row tailors don't use it.) The handsewn button will always be stronger than a machinesewn if done right though! By a lot. That is why on RTW the buttons often fail so fast. Another tip that I can give: the machine made pick stitching on RTW suits can often look very cheap, like a nail gun was used. But you can actually easily replace this one with a handsewn pick stitch. Even yourself! It is really simple, just remove the old pick stitch and then handsew a new one which will then look finer. It might even trick seasoned sartorialists into thinking your suit was handmade. Can be combined with your tip on replacing the lapelhole. I had this replacement of the lapelhole done once on a jacket btw and my tailor told me it is easier if the lapelhole has not been opened yet because the cloth can fray.
@DiscussionsSartoriales4 күн бұрын
You're right, I used the wrong word (I know Zampa di Gallina more than you imagine!!). I speak here about a technique I've seen at many bespoke houses: the thread is twisted many times to create a "foot". If anybody knows the word, I would be happy to know it. Cheers, Hugo
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
You're right I used the wrong word (I'm very familiar with Zampa di Gallina of course). I speak here about this technique that consists of turning many times the thread at the bottom of the button at the end of the sewing process, thus creating a "foot". If anyone knows the word for this, I would be happy to learn it. Cheers, Hugo
@teekue4 күн бұрын
@@SARTORIALTALKS I believe in English it is called sewing on the button with a shank.
@da-hood9 күн бұрын
dear Sonya and Hugo, thank you for these always didactic subjects, pleasantly surprised to understand most of what you said in English! ☺️ I myself have a few costumes from another era that will come out of the closet 😅 thank you for all that...🙏🏻
@SARTORIALTALKS4 күн бұрын
You're very welcome David! And congratulations for your English!! Hugo
@da-hood4 күн бұрын
@@SARTORIALTALKS ☺️🙏🏻
@mikeclementecard9 күн бұрын
Hugo, what fabric are those pants?
@SARTORIALTALKS9 күн бұрын
Good morning Mike. These are flannel pants. Cheers, Hugo
@mikeclementecard8 күн бұрын
@@SARTORIALTALKS that’s what I thought. And it’s not too hot in the summer? Thanks!!
@inthezone41239 күн бұрын
Sonja mentioned about Paul Smith and Canada. I look a look at my Paul Smith sports jacket, and noted that it was made in Canada. What an interesting video!
@SARTORIALTALKS9 күн бұрын
Thanks! I think she was speaking of Paul Stuart, not Paul Smith. Cheers, Hugo
@lonniesharp91099 күн бұрын
Most people don't know that John Lennon originally titled the song "Give Three-Piece A Chance". 😎
@SARTORIALTALKS9 күн бұрын
Haha, happy you understood the pun intended ! Cheers, Hugo