Give this a try.

@@RVHabit I tried this yesterday at the storage yard. I couldn't get the material to budge. One end has a screw and the other end has a rivet. I made an appointment with an RV supply and repair shop that I use. The material is actually falling apart, so time to pay a professional to replace it.

Yes they get old and can really get stuck in the track.

Sounds like that's the problem. Great diagnosing. Happy Camping.

That's great to hear. Thank you.

No There is no oil filter on the 4000

I usually check the air filter at oil changes. Unless you spend time in very dusty areas the air filter will last longer than you expect.

Great job!

Great to hear!

My pleasure!

Glad to hear it!

Glad it helped!

Glad I could help

I can't get the e1 off

the E1 error indicates a loss of communication between the thermostat and module board which is typically located inside the AC unit. You will need a tech to troubleshoot.

well i can't tell what wires are what for your situation. But you can check positive and negative with a multimeter.

Your very welcome. Hope it helps.

Mine did not say Gen 2. Came in a small brown box with no markings.

Thanks! I'll install it next week after I get my new batteries. I'll do some additional testing to make sure everything's working. The product is probably fine; the packaging was just a bit odd.

I believe it is distributed by Battle Born Batteries. If you have any questions you can always reach out to them. I believe they have some wiring diagrams on their website also. Good luck.

Thank You!

Glad you think so!

Very good. That's an easy fix.

You are absolutely correct. Never increase the amperage of your current converter without upgrading the wiring to handle any increase.

@RVHabit I actually purchased a higher amperage converter. I had planned to use larger gauge wire. Then, I discovered that the buss bars, in the DC distribution panel, would not accept larger wire. I returned the new unit and bought one that matched the original capacity.

That's the safest bet.

@jmn1234 This is inaccurate information, the max current rating for a converter for the DC system does not increase wire temperatures - breakers / fuses exist solely to protect from such an overcurrent condition on the circuit / wiring anyway, which would allow the wiring to "overheat" if otherwise not present. That amperage rating of the converter is the max system output amperage it can handle and does not increase the load itself (and thus temperature) but supports loads up to that listed rating. The converter AC circuit is on a breaker which is protecting that circuit from an overcurrent condition which could cause the "overheat" condition of the wiring on the AC load side for the converter input.

@Desert-edDave It is very accurate information. Discharged batteries will try to draw all available current. With my 55 amp converter, the batteries will draw 55 amps through the 6 awg wiring with no issue. If it were a 200 amp converter, the batteries draw current beyond the capacity of the 6 awg wire. The wire would heat up, yet the converter could still be operating within its capacity. Thus, no breakers blow and heat rises. In all electrical circuits, AC or DC, the wiring must be able to carry the maximum available current.

Glad to hear it!

Thanks hope it helps.

Thanks for watching!

Always disconnect power to the coach including the batteries. Verify with a multimeter.

No the 4000 does not have an oil filter.

That is correct, channels 1-14 are FRS channels and 15-22 are GMRS channels. Some are confused with the use of privacy codes due to marketing. The use of a privacy code does not create a new channel. It allows the user to eliminate unwanted radio traffic on one of the existing 22 channels. The use of the GMRS channels does require a license.

Well that certainly is not right. I recommend an rvtech to properly diagnose the issue.

@@RVHabit we're going to replace just the circuit board again and see if that fixes it maybe it was defective.

Try the board from Dinosaur. They are a great replacement.

If you only want to run on electric or gas then it is only one switch. You can also run it using both electric and gas simultaneously. Just remember when using electric you need to mindful if using things like the AC or microwave.

@@RVHabit awesome!! Thanks for the response!! 🙏

PS great video for helping install boards.

Thank you

It has been about a year and still working as new.

@@RVHabitI pulled the trigger on the rvlock v4. Going this route if it fails

Thank you very much. Glad you enjoyed it

Great to hear. I also have a video on changing the control board if needed.

I only have one AC. Powering two may be possible with soft starts but its pushing it.

I know they have updated these fans several times. Maybe a little better now.

Thank you very much!

Glad it helped.

Good luck. Also check out my video on replacing the control board.

Just remember removing the interior frame loosens the entire window. Make sure the outer frame and glass does not fall.

I secured the outside window with blue tape (painter's tape) successfully to prevent the glass window from falling out and was able to gently remove the interior frame of the thin shade part and secured the shade with black gorilla tape in small strips to prevent it coming apart again in the re-install. I installed the window thin shade as a new install and everything went well. Now that I think about it, should have made a video. 😁

That sounds great and yes a video would have been a good idea as there is always someone out there with the same issue looking for solutions. Happy camping.

that is the drain plug. it has a foam circle around it.