What's an "AM Radio"? (Kidding!) I'm sure the hand-soldered part of this computer (the panel) is noisy as heck- I'd not be surprised if AM radio on next to it would pick up all sorts of stuff! (and probably the neighbors TV, and.....) 🙂

Supposed to be be Allegro A4982 Stepper Drivers according to spec sheet on reprap wiki for the printrbot “printerboard rev f”. Info on the 1405 here: www.adafruit.com/product/1735

Yup- that’s my wife’s cockatiel Ralph.. he’s a 23 year old man, still likes to dance and sing! Thanks for the comment- I’ve been doing bartending vids lately, but will start back up with some tech vids shortly.

Hope you like it!

Thank you so much!!! I will absolutely try that :-)

Yes- I plan to in the new year.

@@corneleousworthington4566 well good luck! i think it'd be best to make it somewhat apple II compatible, but I don't have much electronics knowledge and that'd probably complicate things severely.

Love it! I still think it’s a great game!

I've probably got the C source code, based on the 1977 version, somewhere...

Hi Eduardo! I paid $690.00 USD for this build. A few factors at play here: a) due to COVID lockdown, actual Prusa printers were backordered at that time. b) desire to only use quality parts (i.e., real Rambo board, real E3DV6, real MK42 heated bed, real PINDA sensor.) c) some parts, like the part cooling fan, had to be bought in quantities beyond what was needed. d) I didn't want to wait for AliExpress shipping and wanted good returns options, so I bought almost all parts from Amazon or PrintedSolid.com.. e) building from scratch, slightly different than what others had done, caused me to buy extra quantities of fasteners, and not all were used. All these things drove the price up. Of course, now there are Prusa i3MK3 clones on eBay for less than I paid too! But, all told, I'm happy with my build, and love the quality it puts out. It's very reliable too.

The 6809! It's stored in a cigar box lol.. I need to break it out. That was to be the genesis of a homemade Vectrex I want to build. Think I should break that out of storage and build on it some?

@@corneleousworthington4566 it would be pretty neat if you do but I'm not sure if its just me who would like to see it

@@ducksonplays4190 6809 is a pretty neat CPU.. That breadboard computer in the video got it's CPU from a donor CPU board from a Williams Pinball Controller (WPC) CPU board. Also- here's a cool 6809 computer: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZ6ao6Ksh5qcnpY

@@corneleousworthington4566 it sure has been in a box for a long time a whole 7 years its probably lonely in there

Wow! Thanks so much for your comment and historical notes! As a big fan of the game, I really appreciate your comment sir! I've actually watched a few people caving on youtube- and I must admit, to me it looks terrifying! I think I'd get nervous being in the tight spots- that appear to be so tight that you cannot turn around? Is it like this much in the real colossal cave?

@@corneleousworthington4566 There certainly are many such spots, where one can't turn around. There's a complete continuum from crack-sized to gaping giant borehole. The thing that distinguishes the Mammoth Cave System (of which Colossal Cave is only a small fraction, though a historically notable one) is its incredible length: the official published total is 412 miles of surveyed passage, every inch of it measured by hand with a tape measure and survey instruments. We suspect there may be a thousand miles of cave there, about another hundred years of work ahead of us. Which YOU can particpate in. The CRF (Cave Research Foundation)'s website is cave-research.org. Tell them Colossal Cave Adventure sent you.

@@corneleousworthington4566 I should add that no one forces anyone to do anything they're not comfortable with, in Mammoth. If someone ever did, that would be an instant recipe for not being invited back. We've surveyed 412 miles since 1953. Zero fatalities, and we like keeping it that way. There are accidents. Every fifteen years or so someone will fall and bust an arm or something like that, but we are very, very careful and methodical. If something's too tight, we note its dimensions and leave it on the list for another party to maybe look at down the road. There's always another lead somewhere else. On the other hand, sometimes you get excited because of what a lead seems to be near, and you push hard. But you can work up to that, over years of experience and whatever fits your own psychology. Again, no one makes you do anything.

Star Trek was the first game I ever played, on a Data General Nova/Eclipse, with a teletype instead of a monitor. Colossal Cave was my second, on an Intel 8080 development system. That was back in the '70s...

yup- that is me! :-) thanks for the complement!

OSB is actually dimensionally stronger than plywood. It doesn’t warp. It’s only “weakness” is if it gets saturated with water. So, I painted it. It’s really rigid actually- look in the third vid in the series where I attempt to flex it. If it ever fails, I can always make a new one outta something else- but I’m satisfied it’s the correct application.

@@corneleousworthington4566 yes I am quite familiar with OSB. as for its strength vs plywood, yes it is stronger in shear making it a good candidate for shelves, roofs, beams ect. But you are not stressing it in shear, most of your loads are compressive & tensile. And what on earth do you mean "it doesn't warp" ? EVERYTHING warps. Yes painting it helps. even brand new its not dimensionally accurate (on an order consistent with the positioning system) and over time, its going to move all over the place. by "attempt to flex it" are you referring to you pushing on it with your index? If you think that's a meaningful test, you are grossly under estimating the forces involved in 3d printing. I should note, its not the Z moments that would concern me, its the gantry wobbling as that table whips back and forth. Now if you print slow and low(z height), maybe its fine for you. But you made this build video and posted for the world. Through most of it, you did a pretty nice job (with the build and the camera/video editing), but that chunk of roofing supporting your gantry sticks out like a sore thumb (mechanically, not visually). moral of the story is people may be watching in preparation for their own builds and they ought to know that wood ("engineered" or otherwise) simply has no place on a 3d printer. .

Matt, if you have a vid on KZbin that you made of a 3D printer that you fabbed up at home, I’d love to see it. At no point have I ever listed in ANY of my videos that any of my projects are made THE way to properly do anything, nor the defacto ideal in any area. I just enjoy making stuff. And, there are many others who have used the same materials as me in their builds, and on reprap.org which is where this open source design ultimately comes from. So: No, I'm not putting bad ideas out there if this is what you're implying. If anything, I'm showing people you can make something you want- even if you don't have the ideal materials. Yes, the wood frame is not as strong as some other materials. But- at this thickness and size, it’s plenty strong, arguably as rigid as the 6mm aluminum frame of a real prusa for the same application, and not the weak point in this 3D printer design (the 3D printed parts are, and/or the zip ties holding the Y-axis bearings are, and/or the super cheapo linear bearings are, or... The entire design is engineered to a relative tolerance point- and not a point of perfection).... I might also wager that absolute rigidity (and “compressive & tensile” strength) in a 3D printer will work against you, and having a little bit of give will smooth things out. I had some OSB for free in my garage, decided to try it out, and was pleased with the level of rigidity of the part once fabricated. Now fully built, this thing prints awesome- exponentially better than what I had before (which was also made of wood). PS: remember that the latest real Prusa design is ultimately printing items on the heated bed, made of essentially thin garolite, and now with a thin aluminum flex plate on top fixed via magnet.

@@corneleousworthington4566 no videos but here is a photo album: www.flickr.com/gp/188989727@N05/6R76Ea apologizes for the order of the photos, something happened to the timestamps, did my best to re order them. do note that this is my first printer, actually stumbled upon your video in preparation for building a cartisian machine. I think its great that you like making stuff, that's something we have in common. "Yes, the wood frame is not as strong as some other materials. But- at this thickness and size, it’s plenty strong, arguably as rigid as the 6mm aluminum frame... " any empirical evidence to support that claim? Also, my point was less about strength and more about dimensional stability over time. "I might also wager that absolute rigidity (and “compressive & tensile” strength) in a 3D printer will work against you, and having a little bit of give will smooth things out." not even multi million dollar CNC machines are "absolutely rigid", but they certainly strive to be. And if your methods for alignment are not up to par, then yah, some slop is going to be necessary so the thing does not bind out...again, only if you cant put it together properly. You say your prints are "awesome", again not very empirical. Curious what sort of speeds/accel you run? and if you often use much of the build height. I would expect this printer to do pretty well when its printing low and slow. "remember that the latest real Prusa design is ultimately printing items on the heated bed, made of essentially thin garolite, and now with a thin aluminum flex plate on top fixed via magnet" I am unclear what point you were trying to make here, but I was not aware of that, interesting factoid. you really seem to want to defend engineered wood, and its place in 3d printing. that's not something you will convince me (or most people) of. lastly, I get the feeling you feel like I am attacking you/ your build. If that is the case, apologizes, my intent is merely critiqued it so that others can learn. and I would not have wasted my time doing that, if you didn't have a decent budget machine. But the next guy who wants to follow your design should know that a skimping on the rigidity/stability of your frame should be avoided.

@@mtraven23 First- honestly- you built a really nice printer! Looks bulletproof, and I commend your design and execution. If I had a welding setup, I'd look to build more things with metal. I'm not trying to be defensive or on a campaign to promote engineered wood or anything. But after using it myself, and using it in this application- I do think it is ample. Now, what it will perform like in a couple years, and after exposure to humidity, I very well may be changing my tune! But, for now- it's what I've got to work with, and I honestly think it's ok. Not ideal, but certainly very good (if you don't believe me, seriously, try it).. I'm absolutely not the first by the way, to use wood in this exact application- check these guys out- they're who I was watching before I built mine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2e6i4B4hsysp7c kzbin.info/www/bejne/gGfCq2OPgs2Mmq8 kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZesoKmInJqjgqs One of the reasons why I'm OK with wood being used for the gantry frame is, the build surface in these printers only moves on the Y-axis, and that movement is directly supported by the metal frame- which is squat and very strong in this setup. Yes, the X-axis is moving side to side and mounted to the gantry, but I believe due to the shape of the gantry- it is well supported in this regard. Z-axis is moving so slow (comparatively- although it does have hops in there at times depending on settings) but I also do not it is an issue. Check out some of the similar designs on reprap.org: reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Options (Some of those printers have NO gantry at all! Not that I'm advocating that, but, it's adding to my comfort level using wood here. I'm using standard Prusa i3 MK2/S settings- so default speed. My point about actual Prusa's using garolite (essentially circuit board material) and magnet fastened metal is to simply point out- there is play in that setup. Based on my experiences, and also the opinions of others (this guy is a mechanical engineer specifically discussing attempting removal of all play in a Prusa i3, and whether it is beneficial: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJC1lJqfrbGVd6s) is why I respectfully disagree with the idea that some play/tolerance is only helpful if the machine is assembled incorrectly in the first place. And if I seem defensive- I think it's because you're implying that I'm wrong for suggesting use of wood- and you are voicing this to make sure viewers know not to make the foolhardy choice of using it in this application. I'm not advocating anyone build this printer my way (after all, you can buy a better printer for less!) I'm not advocating someone specifically seek out wood to use for this application against other materials. I am showing how I built mine- I've explained my opinions- and I am confident in my own engineering skill/abilities to know this is not a bad choice. I am fairly picky- and would not use anything that I determine to be insufficient in any design. That should be evident looking at other aspects of this printer build I'm showcasing. At any rate- thank you for your feedback, I'm glad you found and commented on this vid! You've got other vids on your channel- so dude- showcase that beast of a printer you made! Share it, let's see what you've built!

I started out with PLA, because that’s all my old printer would print. After building the Y axis, a friend printed the x-axis, z-axis, and extruder parts in PETG (and the fan shroud in ABS). I printed the large parts on this printer- the power supply holder, lcd cover, and Rambo box. I got some PETG in from Prusa, and have so far printed and replaced the y-belt holder- the pla one had started to warp from heatbed heat. The other y-axis parts appear to be holding up so far, but I’m printing PETG spares just in case

Awesome! Yes- the hard part was not being able to buy actual Prusa parts.. But, I made due..

Thank you! Hope to have an updated vid out this weekend!

Sounds like that would be a really fun project! It might be a little tricky- as I'm not sure, but I think the NES used a proprietary graphics chip? In theory, I think it is doable- as I pretty much implemented a full system bus.

​@@corneleousworthington4566 i supposed he could reclaim chips from a broken or just old NES. I think there's also too many software and FPGA emulators, and there's no programming with Basic, so I don't think there'd be much of a community. Something like ZXSpectrum had not only programming available, but a healthy community of hobby game developers- I know they're Z80, but Atari 2600 also wouldn't be fun, if not for the Atari 400 and 800, etc. If one is a very talented lone hardware developer or precocious student maybe, but any hobbyist whose looking for rich information resources past and present, I'd stay away from Nintendo.

Sorry for the late reply! www.reactivemicro.com is now selling these kits.

Were you able to find one for sale? It seems that they're not available on reactive micro either anymore

ReactiveMicro.com is going to start selling them.

@@corneleousworthington4566 Do u have any information when? I really wanna buy set w/ case.

Age of Reason an Xbox from 1975

Hi James- sorry for the late reply! The schematics are available on our website: www.putnamelectronics.com Look on the products page for the link- and thank you for your interest!

I guess just so it would all fit inside the cartridge without disturbing the external appearance. Although- it would be kinda nice to have it as a power led!

W/ LESS than 4 MB ram. Hahaha