Oh no. Sorry to hear you're having problems with your hub. I'm sure one of the Rohloff service centres could sort it for you.

No worries, Mark. I'm glad you found it useful. Yea thankfully you don't need to remove the carrier for the rear brakes. It's a different story with the front brakes though.

Thanks for your comment! I'm pleased that the video has been promoted by YT enough to reach some fellow bike nerds and Rohloff enthusiasts.

Hi Andreas and welcome aboard! Thanks for the great feedback.

Thanks Daniel, glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks Ollie!

Thanks! haha, I'm glad you approve of the Carhartt gear!

Hey. Unfortunately you would have to swap out the internals of the hub to change from CC to TS.

Hi Ade, thanks for this comment. I have watched many of your videos and have found them very helpful and informative. Thank you for making the effort to film and edit them! I quite like the old school belt drive speed change because it's simple and there isn't much to go wrong. Speed changes may become a little tedious though you're right. All the best.

Thanks! Yea, I looked at the 180 but wanted something slightly bigger and without electronic speed control. I got fed up with my mini lathes electronic speed control breaking. Hopefully the 240B will treat me well.

It would be pretty difficult. Your best bet would be to remove the hub assembly from the car. Then you might be able to punch the old bearing out in a press or with a big hammer. Getting the new bearing in without damaging the ball races would be almost impossible though. You'd have to make a collar that goes behind the flange and sits on the outer ball race. Good luck!

Just bought mine from eBay about £50

Thanks, glad you found it useful. Link to sill protectors: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273976845182?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=a850da353e214df7959d88e647e09e13&bu=43844129317&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20220301063054&segname=11051&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid

thanks for that! @@dirtbagd89

actually, what axle stands do you have?

I've got the 3 tonne halfords ones. I just remembered that I had to ask the ebay guy specifically for the 3 tonne compatible pads because the standard pads are for the 2 tonne axle stands. He can machine the pads to suit the 3 tonne axle stands so it's no problem, just send him a message.

Great stuff thanks for that.

good. job

Thanks!

I have tried to follow Dan Burkhart's video on the Speedhub a number of times and I understand the basic principles. However, the way the shifting mechanism works inside the hub is a little beyond me. I think it's amazing how someone could imagine, design and build such an intricate mechanism. RIP Bernard Rohloff and thank you for your wonderful creation!

@dirtbagd89 I was sad to hear about Bernard as well. Seems he left way too soon, but that's between him and his/our "Designer." I know he's in an amazing place now that transcends the mere physical realm. Hope his family are finding comfort with their loss. Thanks for sharing these videos. They'll find the ones that need them.

Thank you! I broke the centrifugal switch by accident and I couldn't find a replacement for the imperial shaft diameter. Using a timer rely seemed like a good alternative and I thought it would be an interesting project.

@dirtbagd89 Makes sense. Sometimes replacement parts are no longer available, and we can only improvise. Great idea, and very professional!

Given the harsh envirnoment it operated in it was quite an achievement to get the car beyond 200k miles. A reliable workhorse but just couldn't resist the ravages of Scottish Highlands road salt.

haha, yea it's a filthy job!

Glad you found it useful!

The external gear mech is aligned by ensuring the two pins on the shifter go into the two holes on the gearbox where the pawl springs are located. You also set the gearbox to 14th gear before installing the pinion gear.

@@dirtbagd89 This is on an E-14 Hub. I think the dealer replaced the internal gears under warranty. The shifter was in 9th gear when the wheel was sent to the dealer. Bosch Kiox Controller allows you to choose a start gear whenever you stop and start. That's why I know the shifter was in 9th gear when I sent the wheel to the dealer. They sent the hub back and my Kiox says 9th and will only shift to 14th and will not go below 9th gear. You wrote: “Set the gearbox to 14th gear before installing the pinion gear. I think the new gearbox was in first gear, and he reinstalled the shifter that was in 9th. Gear position. what do you think.

​@@briananderson6142 From what you're saying it sounds like you need to remove the electronic shifting mechanism and manually turn the 8mm hex on the external gear mech to get the hub into 9th gear so that it matches what gear the electronic shifter starts in. I'd recommend turning the hex on the external gear mech anti clockwise to its furthest extent so that you know it's in 14th gear. Once you've done this turn it 5 clicks clockwise to put it in 9th gear. Then you can reattach the electronic shifting mechanism.

@@dirtbagd89 I am going to try this and tell you the results. Thanks

@@dirtbagd89 Good advice, problem solved, and all gears work fine. The electronic shifter needs to be shifted to the 14th gear or first before being sent away for service work to ensure this doesn't happen, mine was sent away in the ninth gear. Thanks

Hey Peter. Both contactors are rated to 18 amps and have a 230v coil. You can get them relatively cheaply here: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332619693844?hash=item4d71adbf14:g:s44AAOSwq1JZHY4p. To be honest your cheapest option is probably to find a another second hand motor that will work. You're looking at £100 for the parts alone to make the starter unit with integrated timer relay. If you send me your email I can send you a list of all the parts I used. If you aren't happy building the unit yourself we might be able to sort something out.

50Nm then another 45 degrees.

No problem. Glad you found it useful.

Hey, yea removing the gearbox from the hub casing is pretty easy. I haven't had to replace the seals - I think you used to be able to buy the special tool and seals to do this but now you can't get them so you have to send the hub to Rohloff if the seals need replacing.

Hi John. Where I live the roads are salted for about 6 months of the year. You can see the impact this has had on the car. Thanks for your comment!

Not only this salt , škoda had problem with this , the same is Octavia , is low quality of steel to year 2010 is absence of anti rust protect. And if y usually park on grass y do this with all brands.

Hey, I used M5x0.8 screws that were 20mm long. I think I had to trim them slightly so they didn't stick out too far.

Thanks Matt. Good luck with your refurbishment!

Thanks! There was a lot of play in the steering. And whenever I removed the rod end ball joint from the hub it would just flop down instead of holding itself in position.

Thank you! Cheers!

It certainly is. Ron's influence has reached the Highlands!

Thanks for your kind words! I'm glad you found the videos useful.

I got it second hand off facebook marketplace. If you look up '9N 72mm wheel bearing tool' on ebay you should find what you need.

Ha, yea that one was stubborn.

Ha, yea it's all the same shade of orange...

Nice one. I didn't know you could do it that way.

Yea, taking the drop links off does help, but I still found it difficult even with them off.

Thanks! Sounds like the CH10 will work well for your needs. All the best!

Thank you!

Smaller boxes? They stack.

Hey Martin. Yea I've read that too and I agree with you, you can't put the bolts anywhere other than through the holes in the lower arm. I did the whole marking thing the first time I worked on the car and decided it was a waste of time and haven't done it since. I think I read somewhere that on early models you could adjust the camber with the lower arm bolts so perhaps very early models had slotted holes in the lower arm - I'm not sure though.

@@dirtbagd89 I appreciate your reply. 👍

The bearings and bearing seats were fine - the only issue was a split in the CV boot. Good quality CV joints are about 6x the price of a replacement CV boot so it would be a waste of money to replace the CV joint if it's still in good condition. Garages might replace the CV joint instead of overhauling them because they have to consider the labour charge but that's not a consideration for me because my labour is free.

No problem, Jack. I'm glad it helped someone out. It probably took me 2 to 3 hrs to do both sides.

Thanks Adrian. I found the most awkward bit was getting the clamp bolts started in the threads.

@@dirtbagd89 yes if you drop lucky it’s a bonus off memory I think I lined it up with a metal drift.