726k is massive mileage for a btr if its still the original box. at that mileage its going to need all the help it can get haha

Hey mate i don't sorry. I just used a mix of a gregories workshop manual and ford workshop manuals downloaded online then cut open the harnesses and traced out wires and figured it out. I did write down on a note pad the wire colours and ecu pinout for everything i needed at the time though so if i find it i'll post it for you. I used to be all over it but its been a while now so i've forgotten half of what i did. There's a lot of ways to go about doing this conversion though so what i did may not work for you. Depends what ecu you want to control the transmission, fans, ac etc.

If you get the right combination it works brilliantly. It has got me out of trouble a few times now

I bought them from ford. I'd say they're obsolete now. At the time they barely had enough left for just my engine. So unless they released more stock your options now days are reuse them and hope they don't let go or fit upgraded rods with arp bolts.

@@stuff7853 Just got some from Jefferson Ford, so there still out there. Thanks for the response.

@@anthonycavalliotis8736 good to hear they still have stock!

Four years on now, how is the Engine going?

@@anthonycavalliotis8736 The engines still doing well, its been tuned for a while now as well. Biggest regret was not upgrading rods because now everything behind the engine has been upgraded and i am at the power limits of the engine and nothing else

The intech that was in it was quiet tired actually not to mention i already had the na barra engine out of the other car on this channel that i had already converted to turbo. While you're right its a fairly pointless swap. You will never gain the skills to be able to pull a conversion like this off and even bigger if you don't start small and gain experience doing things like this. The people you see doing crazy builds didn't just wake up one day with the ability to do it, we all started with smaller projects. Its also about just having a love for tinkering with things. So for those reasons i encourage anyone who's into cars to give smaller conversions like this a go because you'll learn a lot. That said while the 0-100 wasn't much different the extra torque and better auto control from the barra pcm made for a much nicer car to drive, it just felt stronger and more refined. The new owner has been driving it for years now and loves it.

They're repco branded cv's which i am told from a few who have run them that they are the same or slightly stronger then stock, i have no proof of that though. I can say they've had no issues so far.I did a lot of digging before i bought them. I'd have liked to run factory cv's but its the same issue always down in Tassie. Finding good second hand turbo parts is nearly impossible. A mate of mine was wrecking falcons exclusively at one point. Out of like 8 xr6t's not one of them had a good rear end. The cv's always had tons of play and split boots and most the diffs were equally as bad. The na stuff was usually fine.

I think they were little 6mm ones by memory.

Thanks for the kind words mate! how is yours all running? To give an update on the car quiet a lot has happened since these videos were filmed. I converted it to a 6 speed manual and its now running just shy of 350rwkw on 14psi. I found that by the time i was doing those mods to the car youtube had become so saturated with 1000hp barra builds that it seemed there was little desire for content like mine anymore where as when i started there was very little content on conversions. I haven't really got any car projects going at the moment but if i end up doing anything unique again that i feel will help people if i upload it'll appear!

The 2-3 shift really seems to be slow in these transmissions. What ever it is that engages the gear be it a band or clutches just doesnt seem to bite like 1st-2nd does

you can use an external boost controller you just have to get the car tuned to suit. I prefer using the factory boost control though because it gives the tuner far greater control when tuning. For what its worth this cars now running 340rwkw on 14psi and the factory boost control is working perfectly

I've got another video on the channel about doing a basic overhaul on the diff. Biggest issue you'll run into is changing the diff gears. It's easy to set the backlash and preload with the screw adjusters but you'll likely have to change the pinion depth which is set by shims. Unless you have a mate that works at a diff shop that can sling you an assortment of shims to try you really need access to a lathe and machine up shims or some other method. I'm sure there's places you can buy them but any i've found have been quiet expensive

By memory they say A052 on one side and B052 on the other

I've heard feedback from a few now that it doesn't work on the Au's which is a shame as i thought it would have

@@stuff7853 Buggar, I was just about to go buy the cheap tool. cheers anyway

@@victorvogt5399 I need to try it on an au myself at some point to confirm it. I can say you can do it with a 3 jaw puller on an au but you've got to be very selective about the one you use as most the thickness of the teeth on the puller wont fit between the back of the harmonic balancer and timing cover and it you grind them down they can snap.

I'm definitely not a fan of them. They drive great when working but don't seem to have the reliability of the older units. The old 4 speed got a lot of hate but with an occasional oil change most of them make it well past 300k without any work. The said i have seen a few 6 speeds with taxi mileage on them that still are going well.

Thanks mate, so far so good with the engine. It's done 20,000ks now and is pushing 340rwkw

I'm usually game to give most things a crack if i can find proper documentation on how it goes together. These transmissions being sold globally helps a lot with finding that info. That said i was a little nervous about taking the job on but had a spare transmission available to me if it went wrong

Bugger! Depending on the severity of the milkshake it'll most likely be a replacement transmission job. You should be able to swap the tcm over on the valve bodies though so you don't have to with the donor transmission not being paired to the pcm in the car.

You're dead right i definitely made a mistake there. I have no idea what happened to end up with that result. Its a shame about the ute diff, i actually had the solid axle version of this diff apart out of my fg ute earlier this year. It wasn't a full rebuild but i had to remove the center to change the carier bearings and the lsd friction plates so sort a clunk it had on takeoff. Sadly i didn't film it.

Are you talking about the little plunger that connects the valve body to the lever on the outside of the box? its been a while since i did this job but by memory it moved freely with zero effort. Once its slotted into the selector arm its harder to move because it has a detent for each gear position.

That's awesome to hear you've gotten that sort of longevity out of it! still on the original engine? wheat sort of issues if any have you had with the gas system in that time? eg fuel pumps etc.

Thanks mate! i think mostly just because my videos are long so they don't really suit casual watching.

Keep it up. Them long vids reveal a lot of detail to help get the job done right. Appreciate it much....

@@xbgtfella Thanks mate, I appreciate it!

Pretty easy job, not sure what car you're doing it on but if its a ba onwards check how tightly the shift cable clips on. If its loose buy a replacement bushing kit off ebay. Once you disturb them they have a tendency to fall off and stop the shifter working if they're already worn when you remove them