There is nothing wrong with drilling those holes out to match with a long bit. The same size is good But the cam bearing hole being to small creates a restriction.

Measure Cam bearings I.D... Grind the cam journals .0005" - sand bearings a little with 800 wet & dry ??? seen that done....

That's a Great Cam bearing install tool.... What Brand is that ???

I dig that cam bearing installer! Never saw one like that. I got the old LIsle beat n greet one. Its easy to go crooked with them.

So good all ways learning something watching this channel keep it up guys from Australia

Nice work!

Years ago at one shop I did business with the older fellow who worked there and assembled engines had camshafts that he cut grooves in on the journals (these were the common ones that were used). He would use them to ream the bearings if he had a tight camshaft fit. Now this was for standard rebuilds and not for racing purposes. Once in a while there would be a unit where the camshaft bearings were too tight and it only took a slight reaming to clear up the issue. It seemed to work ok and he never had an engine where that method gave any trouble, but then again this is going on fifty years ago. Times have sure changed. It is good to see the thinking outside the box in order to alleviate these issues.🥸👍👍👍👍👍

Comment for the algorithm.

Thats a huge no from me.

I feel like the unnecessary "slow-mo guys" shots that aren't really showing anything interesting, along with repeating yourself 30x over is making these videos unwatchably long and I find myself hitting the skip button a LOT

FA18 hornet wings are held onto the fuselage with 6 large pins per side and mount into beryllium bushes, they should be able to be rotated by hand with the wing lined up on the fusealage correctly. We had a beatiful tool called a roller burnisher that we would drive through the bushings with a hefty pneumatic drill. It was capable of moving metal around the face of the bearings. They would look like mirrors when finished and the pins would spin extremely smoothly with very little effort.

33:00 these shop kids always on their phones

It runs 1500hp now?

Now the cleaning guy knows what he is talking about! He cleans stuff PROPERLY !

Mopar or no car, never had this issue with a SBC lol

Parting it off, only need 10 thou or so and you can break it off.

Great job and entertaining solution

You should look into the guides and lessons that have been done by the guys over at Titans of CNC. They have an amazing library of tutorials, projects and videos to help acclimate to Fusion 360. I'm sure it would be a really great tool for you with your new lathe.

Smart and very educational

Not your typical Dad & Dave situation, very interesting, informative but of your comments got stuck with me , " things I've been doing WRONG all these years", a very harsh word to use weather it be towards yourself & not that you did but towards someone else, I myself have used extensively in the past & have learnt over the years that it puts people off or in a state of limbo so I started to say " not right " , not quite right or not correct. So in short I have found the outcome much more rewarding for others & beneficial in business workings . Thank you guys .

love your channel, you are rock stars

Barra will do nicely.

I love watching this channel.

ScannerDanner made a couple payments on that lathe! Jim, you and Nick are an amazing team!!

Many moons ago in high school auto shop class I rebuilt my 225 slant 6. The cam was very tight on that one, too. The shop teacher used sections of old piston ring as a scraper on the tight bearings.

I need to borrow this, please. 😂 My 383 cam is pretty tight for my D100 truck engine build. I just so happen to be at this exact point in the build (mainly because I broke my leg and can’t progress on the build at the moment 🤦🏻‍♂️).

Do you guys use trim in the new machine or just water?

"That'll be $15,000"

Yes, the proper term is Swagged, however some rifle barrels are swagged instead of broached.

Excellent thinking and work, guys@

This reminds me a little of Fatigue technologies cold expansion, cold working holes in metal like they do building aircraft.

Just looking @ the head's the intake port's the angle look's all wrong like a Buick nail head like either the head's or block have been decked too much! What say U two?

Good video thanks enjoyed.

Jim you forgot one major thing to teach the young fella THE KISS PRINCIPLE

where do u get that cam tool at. I need that

But fire

Pass aggressive

When you put the cam in and turned it there should have been burnished witness marks left on the bearings... I just go in and scrape the high marks with a selected piece of broken glass. (small picture frame glass and put in a towel and break it up) You can affix broken glass with epoxy to a dowel, make custom scrapers. Then there's the ol' method of cutting cutting groves in a cam core, stand the block on its tail and drop the cam in while turning the cam to scrape the high spots. Bearing material is soft/malleable, sure you can swage.

The chances of installing Mopar cam bearings that the bearings just work, are slim to none.... Old Mopar cams can and should be converted to a reaming tool in every machine shop. That is far more accurate than a using a broach ever will be. That is also how Chrysler did all of them, with a reamer.... Always shoot for the tight end of the clearance..... The broach route can force the bearing round, but it can't possibly ever center it. All a broach can do is give you an offset bearing that is round until the cam fits, and will inevitably end up with far to much clearance somewhere around the bearing circumference after it is broken in... The reason I mention this is because even after getting the cam tunnel bored on seasoned Mopar blocks that shifted, you almost always get bearing sets that wont allow the cam to go in and the clearances are too tight... Or at least you should be getting that...... They need reamed, by design, for a reason.... All you really needed to do is cut grooves into an old cam on the journals at an angle. Use it to ream the bearings and then polish where it reamed the bearings... Just like Mopar did.... Tricks of the trade... And no lathe or broach creation is ever required..... 😁

That tool is called Whiskey~

Can’t wait to hear this MOPAR run

Never leave Chuck key in Chuck ! Very dangerous

Your pilot hole should be three quarters your finished size

Mopars and AMC’s all have the tight cam bearing issue.

Install with a loctite product if necessary !

Lightly polish just the two centre ones on the cam

Haggerty built an engine in a while back had to clearance bearings this might help kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIClfKmPoLOfi8Usi=e6FTuLCEWNyabjBa

nicely done!

I believe you're running the lathe too fast. You're maxing out the rpms well before you get to the middle of your work piece when you are facing. In my opinion.