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Пікірлер
@ShuhDonk
@ShuhDonk 2 сағат бұрын
Thanks for the video, I did just the update and all is working properly but the part cooling fan is not running (on front of the toolhead). Ideas why this might be? It shows it is 100% on the dashboard though. Also what profile are you using in Orca after the switch to mainline, still use the SV08 one built into Orca?
@KS_Husker
@KS_Husker 12 сағат бұрын
How do you get the .zip backup saved off of Mainsail so you can copy these portions? There a quite a few steps skipped in you video. I am having to use another video and the instructions all together go get through this. One good thorough video would be much better for people that don't do this stuff very often.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 11 сағат бұрын
That was the goal - to make a more through video. Appreciate your feedback there. For saving your backup files, from mainsail. Click on the machine tab. Once there check your current path - /config is what should be listed. Next to name click the checkbox, that will highlight everything. Then click the blue cloud icon that is the download icon. That will save it to where you have your browser sending your downloads - usually the download folder.
@KS_Husker
@KS_Husker 10 сағат бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus Thank you for the quick response. I ended up putting the old EMMC back on it. Opening the cfg file from within mainsail. Copied the text and created a new text file with Notepadd++. Pasted all of the text and saved it to my desktop as config.cfg. Then used this file to get my mcu lines coppied to the new emmc after swapping it back in. This is still a painful process if you don't do this a lot.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 10 сағат бұрын
@@KS_Husker Awesome, glad you were able to get your info you needed. Yes this is not the easiest thing to do so hang in there! Let me know if you have any other questions. You can send me an email if you like. [email protected]
@bradleyliebl2931
@bradleyliebl2931 2 күн бұрын
I bought the E3D EZ probe but was wondering if the eddy would be better since I was going to do it anyways and going for the faster one seems a better idea if I'm already installing something.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 2 күн бұрын
I have looked into the PZ probe potentially for one of my vorons. I have a standard revo hotend, with tap on that machine. The eddy is very fast, and reduces the prep time a bit even with a heat soak to prep the bed before printing. The tap and what the PZ probe would be are really accurate as well. I think it really comes down to what you are trying to do. Speed at the sacrifice of some accuracy (eddy) or the Pz probe accurate but a slower method with having to touch the bed to probe. Both would be a vast improvement over the SV08 inductive probe.
@bradleyliebl2931
@bradleyliebl2931 Күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus I have been holding off to see how the eddy does, I have been running a bambu E3D obsidian nozzle on the SV08 and it has been great with great flow and the prints look clean so it puts me in a situation that I cannot run mt E3D EZ probe. I am waiting to see what the reviews are for the eddy longer term. My sovol has pretty good first layers with the stock one just a little squished as long as I soak the bed.
@osmium_fps6082
@osmium_fps6082 2 күн бұрын
i mounted the ams the other way around so i have the cable on the right side, and i printed a ptfe tube holder, so there is a little less stress on the ptfe tubes.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 2 күн бұрын
That is a great idea.
@brianmakris1
@brianmakris1 2 күн бұрын
Any one else run into an issue with getting past step 3? Yes step 3 ;-) I went step by step and when I power up the printer I get a forever system booting message. Tried hardline connection to the switch and no connection. Went back through all the steps and setup the WiFi settings and get the same result. I am kind of stuck here. I flashed back the stock from Sovol and the printer is working again. I have an Eddy and a CoPrint setup coming and I believe I have to be moved over to mainline Klipper to utilize both.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 2 күн бұрын
One other person sent me an email recently and is having trouble with this step. Things are pointing to the boardenv.txt file potentially not booting correctly. Can you check that you have this file sun50i-h616-sovol-emmc.dtb in the right spot? copy the sun50i-h616-sovol-emmc.dtb file from the /files-used/dtb-files/ GitHub folder HERE to your 'BOOT' drive /dtb/allwinner/ folder. and make sure you have this below copied above the #---------------# and nothing else above it. bootlogo=false overlay_prefix=sun50i-h616 fdtfile=sun50i-h616-sovol-emmc console=display overlays=uart3 overlays=ws2812 overlays=spidev1_1 Last are you using METHOD 1 or METHOD 2 to flash your emmc? If you are using a SD card - METHOD 2 see note below: NOTE 2: fdtfile=sun50i-h616-sovol-emmc supports both eMMC and SD cards but will, obviously, only boot from one (according to the BTT CB1 docs the SD card has priority over eMMC but there have been reports of it being the other way around; if it boots from eMMC and not the SD card please make sure the eMMC is empty or non-bootable or just remove it from the printer).
@me8016
@me8016 4 күн бұрын
Question .. what does this do to your warranty?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 3 күн бұрын
Sovol has a 1 year warranty on manufacturer defects. Sv08 they market as Open Source, compile & modify & upgrade. In most cases any changes to a 3d printer usually causes issues with warranties. But with Sovols marketing on the SV08 that may not be the case. I've sent them an email, waiting on a response. I'll post an update here once I receive. The way I have interpreted the SV08 marketing is - they designed it to be open source and upgradable like the Voron 2.4 it's based on. I will get you an official answer though from Sovol.
@drago2429
@drago2429 4 күн бұрын
I'm stuck at step 1. I can't get it to connect to my Wi-Fi network.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 4 күн бұрын
your system.cfg? Did you convert to a txt file edit and made sure to convert it back to .cfg and copy back over to your mmc? If you can send me an email at [email protected] will be easier for me to try and help with steps that way to get you going with your conversion.
@NWGR
@NWGR 4 күн бұрын
Thanks for the review. IMHO, $129 for a good dryer is a fair price. This dryer handles my biggest issues that off the shelf dryers (including the fancy sunlu s4) suffer from: hot spots. That said, the motor needing to be replaced eventually as well as the cover needing to be lifted off are deal breakers for me. IMHO, the two best drying options right now (and the two I use) are a cabinet style food dehydrator and the polymaker polydryer. The polydryer is an excellent design; the air coming out of the main heater fan doesn't get hot enough to murder your filament if you use the correct setting. It doesn't get hot enough for nylon, but realistically, very few, if any, of the off the shelf dryers do. The modular approach of the dryboxes and heater being separate is excellent. Already there's plenty of mods out there applying the heater unit to the AMS, pythod box, etc. As for a food dehydrator, I like cabinet style dryers. They have a huge fan that moves a lot of air, another requirement many dedicated dryers fall way short on. Really, the only downside is no being able to print from them out of the box, but modding them should be moderately simple to do so. My ideal dryer would be a cabinet style like a food dehydrator with a door that opens from the side or swings up or down (like a toaster oven). Huge fan, accurate heater within a few degrees that can reach 100c (required by some nylon blends), simple display that lets you set time and temp (many dedicated dryers have unnecessarily cluttered displays/ui, including both the polyphemus and s4), filament feeding options. Sovol actually comes *really* close with the SH04 dryer but the major drawback is that it's fixed at 50c. Otherwise it's a fantastic design. It's fine for PLA (which rarely needs drying), and probably just ok for PETG (60-65c ideally), but I wouldn't buy it if I was printing ABS, ASA, PC or nylon. If a company made a dryer like I described, I'd pay $300 for it easily. There's some commercial solutions available, but their cost is in the thousands.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 4 күн бұрын
Thanks for your feedback. I like that enclosure / dryer idea. Would be nice to see someone offer something at a price point that isn't industrial/commercial. I plan to experiment a little with the polyphemus enclosure, see if I can make a top that comes off and on by magnates. Something to make things easier to route filament through the top ptfe ports and make it alittle easier to swap out filaments. For my Sunlu S4, I printed some tabs that make opening easier, so small taps are horrible!!!
@krunchy3761
@krunchy3761 4 күн бұрын
After you demonstrate the lsusb, which device on YOUR console is it? There is no match for Raspberry Pi RP2 Boot in your console. Is it the one that ends in rp2040?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 4 күн бұрын
If your in boot mode with the eddy USB - done by pressing and holdling the boot button and plugging in usb a the same time. When you do your lsusb - it should come up as "Bus 001 Device XXX: ID XXXXXXX (whatever your device id is) Raspberry Pi RP2 boot. The device ID is what you want to copy and add to the make flash FLASH_DEVICE=thedeviceid. Once ran it will convert that device name to usb-klipper_rp2040_XXXXXXXXXXX_if00 If you are seeing that, it was completed successfully. To test / check. Unplug your Eddy. ssh into your printer and run that ls/dev/serial/by-id/* You should only see two usb-klipper devices - one is your tool head and the other the mainboard. When you do a lsusb - you should see two OpenMoko stm32f103xe those again are your tool head and mainboard. Press and hold the boot button on the eddy, and plug it back into the usb port at the same time. Run your lsusb and you should now see a raspberry pi rp2. If you have already flashed your eddy - when you do lsusb it will display as OpenMoko rp2040. Let me know, happy to help you get things sorted!
@shbenoit
@shbenoit 8 күн бұрын
What do you mean by “commenting out” simply remove it?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 7 күн бұрын
commenting out is a coding term. What I mean by commenting out is whatever line you are removing you would add a # in front of what is on that line, and that makes it inactive. example: # I want to comment out this line When you are testing, or configuring this method is prefered because you can always revert your changes by removing what you added, and uncommenting (removing the #) from the beginning of the line and your code is restored to what you had before. You can remove if that is your preference as well. Once I have my files how I like I usually go back and clean things up by removing. I'll make a backup first incase I need something before I do that.
@shbenoit
@shbenoit 7 күн бұрын
@ Thank you, I like when I learn and that definitely helped me learn. Good explanation.
@jannekallio5047
@jannekallio5047 8 күн бұрын
Thanks for the video! One problem with many of these kind of videos is that there is no explanation what the thing is and what are it's benefits = why should I do this? Most videos just jump in expecting the viewer to know it all. Another nice thing would be to mention other options (if there are such) and compare them a little.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 8 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching. I agree, it is hard to do these videos and include all aspects. That is something I am looking to work towards and do differently than everyone else! Appreciate the feedback.
@slowlane3391
@slowlane3391 9 күн бұрын
I installed the btt eddy on my svo8 and have found it to not be great for z-offset. It works ok after a calibration, but later on when you go to print its always out just like the original probe.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 9 күн бұрын
What does your bed mesh look like? I have found that I have to let the bed heat soak at whatever temp I am printing at for 5 minutes or so. Then when I run my print start - it bed meshes and first layers are consistent. If it's cold and I go straight to printing when the bed heats up I have had some issues. Also did you do the heat compensation calibration? You may need to revisit that after your initial calibration. You can also do this below to add the z-offset save function, which will work more like a traditional probe offset adjustment and allow you to save your z-offset. In your eddy config I would comment out your existing macros and paste the below in what I am using for macros. # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [save_variables] filename: ~/printer_data/config/variables.cfg # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop [force_move] enable_force_move: True # Allows a user to move the z axis down if they have no other means of homing Z and need to calibrate the Eddy. # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [delayed_gcode RESTORE_PROBE_OFFSET] initial_duration: 1. gcode: {% set svv = printer.save_variables.variables %} {% if not printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].restored %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE={ svv.nvm_offset|default(0) } SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=restored VALUE=True {% endif %} # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop # Take note of the lines that should only be used if you have a KNOMI installed. [gcode_macro G28] rename_existing: G28.1 gcode: #SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=homing VALUE=True # Uncomment this if using a KNOMI and then remove the G28 macro from the KNOMI.cfg G28.1 {rawparams} {% if not rawparams or (rawparams and 'Z' in rawparams) %} PROBE SET_Z_FROM_PROBE {% endif %} #SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=homing VALUE=False # Uncomment this if using a KNOMI and then remove the G28 macro from the KNOMI.cfg # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop [gcode_macro SET_Z_FROM_PROBE] gcode: {% set cf = printer.configfile.settings %} SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG Z={printer.probe.last_z_result - cf['probe_eddy_current btt_eddy'].z_offset + printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset} G90 G1 Z{cf.safe_z_home.z_hop} # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [gcode_macro Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE] rename_existing: Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE_ORIG gcode: SAVE_VARIABLE VARIABLE=nvm_offset VALUE={ printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset } # Uncomment the lines in this macro if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET] rename_existing: SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG variable_restored: False # Mark whether the var has been restored from NVM variable_runtime_offset: 0 gcode: {% if params.Z_ADJUST %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE={ printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset + params.Z_ADJUST|float } {% endif %} {% if params.Z %} {% set paramList = rawparams.split() %} {% for i in range(paramList|length) %} {% if paramList[i]=="Z=0" %} {% set temp=paramList.pop(i) %} {% set temp="Z_ADJUST=" + (-printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset)|string %} {% if paramList.append(temp) %}{% endif %} {% endif %} {% endfor %} {% set rawparams=paramList|join(' ') %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE=0 {% endif %} SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG { rawparams } # This macro automates a lot of the frequency mapping process and simplifies the steps significantly. [gcode_macro PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE_AUTO] gcode: BED_MESH_CLEAR G28 X Y G90 # Abs positioning G1 X{ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.x/2 } Y{ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.y/2 } F6000 {% if 'z' not in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION Z={ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.z-1 } # Allows the user to work it down until it touches. {% endif %} PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE {rawparams} #This macro is optional but useful if you want to run a rapid scan before each print. Simply uncomment it and add BED_MESH_SCAN to your print start code. [gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE] rename_existing: BTT_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE gcode: # SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=probing VALUE=True #Only uncomment this line if using a KNOMI and then remove the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro from KNOMI.cfg BTT_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scan # SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=probing VALUE=False #Only uncomment this line if using a KNOMI and then remove the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro from KNOMI.cfg
@slowlane3391
@slowlane3391 8 күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus Thanks for the macros above. I can see they are from the eddy beta config file. Updating to these macros I am now able to save the z-offset and now its been consistent for 5 test prints. I tested both from a cold start with 5 minute heat soak and starting a print after the previous finishes and am getting the z-offset to be spot on or only out +/- 0.05 mm which is easy to adjust while its doing the purge lines.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 8 күн бұрын
@@slowlane3391 I'm glad things are working more consistently! The beta z-offset config I'm going to add to my description. I've been using / testing for a week or two now and with you confirming successful prints I think it's a good option to include. Something I am looking into now is the bed, mine is close in anyway to being flat. I'm experimenting with shims, but might look at bed replacement options too to see if I can get things even better!!
@markusmaeder1388
@markusmaeder1388 10 күн бұрын
I had bad first layers with the original probe and switched to the BTT Eddy USB. Seems to be a really big improvement. Thx to Sovol for keeping the printer OpenSource, thx to Biqu for the Eddy Probe and last but not least, thank you for this video!
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 10 күн бұрын
I'm glad I was able to help!!!
@skunkworks9635
@skunkworks9635 11 күн бұрын
Thanks
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 11 күн бұрын
Appreciate you watching!
@ToddCopeland
@ToddCopeland 14 күн бұрын
What is the adhesion number for PEI? We don't know. So 8 and 10 from Biqu is only relative to each other (i.e, the actual numbers don't matter, they could be 80/90 or any numbers as long as one was slightly less then other). The higher numbers simply imply that they are good numbers (well, unless it's out of 100). PEI is _designed to release when cooled. I'd say if they all held just fine when printing and the Biqu plates did not release as well when cooled, that the Bambu PEI plate actually performed better. Certainly the layer test showed the Frostbite plate failing during a PLA print (what is actually designed to print better). No testing is show for the PEI plate. You _say_ the Biqu adhesion is better then the Biqu plate but the only print you show has them all performing the same during the print. Now at the end you do seem to agree that the PEI is just as good as the Biqu plates but then, out of the 3, recommend the Glacier. I do thank you for taking the time to make the video and it was worth watching from start to finish.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 14 күн бұрын
Appreciate your inputs. All good points. It is hard to really find or set a "base" to compart all plates too. Especially when it comes to an adhesion standard. I was simply working off what BTT advertises as there adhesion numbers. Where the PEI plate falls on that scale after using all three I would say the PEI plate is a high 6 or 7. Which is something I should of said in my video! Something that I do find and like with the Glacier plate - which is my go to plate at the moment. We lost power the other day for about 3.5 hours. I had two prints running one with the Glacier plate and one with my go to PEI plate. The pei plate release and my print failed as a result. The Glacier plate held and I was able to recover once the power was back on and continue the print. So there is benefit there. Ultimately I think doing plate reviews comes down to preference, and showing more examples might help in that process for someone to pick a plate. I'll work on that. My goal when I set out to do this was to help people and provide more accurate reviews when I reviewed something good or bad. Appreciate your feedback!
@johnm.gerard1718
@johnm.gerard1718 15 күн бұрын
I love the video. I just got my Bambu lab X1c. I loved watching the video. But for now I am going to stick with the stock printer and AMS unit. I would like to see a fully assembled insert with Bambu lab motors etc. Already installed. I have had to many upgrades in the past that just don't go as easily as expected. Also, I'd like to see rollers already assembled at least so I don't have to alter the stock Bambu parts. I in the process of printing a spool winder and extra blank spool filament holder if I want to transfer my cardboard spools to a plastic one. So far I love that on the X1c for the FIRST time just print.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 13 күн бұрын
Having some preassembled rollers would be nice! They can be tricky getting them together. Appreciate you watching and the support! Sounds like you have some fun projects planned. Which Spool winder did you go with?
@docmortal
@docmortal 16 күн бұрын
Sorry for this question. Where is the upgrade instructions. Or Wiki
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 16 күн бұрын
No problem at all with your question! The instructions are on either link I posted makerworld or Printables, if you scroll down they start towards the middle of those pages. There should be a downloadable link to a PDF set of instructions there too!
@Wrath669
@Wrath669 16 күн бұрын
No enclosure on printables link included in description?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 16 күн бұрын
Here is a fully printed one, www.printables.com/model/959792-sovol-sv08-enclousure If you want acrylic panels Nadri has good information here: www.printables.com/model/879399-sovol-sv08-panels-for-the-enclosure
@gregma60
@gregma60 17 күн бұрын
@ThePrintasaurus I noticed that in the [fan3] section, it was using PA2 for that fan, you changed it to use PA1?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 16 күн бұрын
That is correct, to be able to control fan speed it needs to be set to the correct pin for that fan port. PA1 is the port. Once you have it set correctly you can control your fan speed based on the temperature you set for it to turn on. Below I added the diagram from the sv08 GitHub just as an additional guide. If you have any issues getting things set please let me know! github.com/Sovol3d/SV08/blob/main/Motherboard/MCU_PIN_definition.pdf
@versus023
@versus023 17 күн бұрын
really great video! Susbcribed!
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 17 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@airheadbit1984
@airheadbit1984 19 күн бұрын
I was trying to figure out what I'd done to my SV08, when I SSH into SPI-XI I see /: usage as 62% of 6.8G which means I never got around to installing the 32GB EMMC?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 19 күн бұрын
That is on my to do list, upgrading to a 32gb mmc. The standard one is 8gb I believe, not much to work with. Do you have a lot of time lapses saved? I had to delete those, I recovered a good deal of space before my upgrade to mainline.
@spsully2582
@spsully2582 19 күн бұрын
2:30 Finds random plastic thing that is 20mm..... if only we had the technology to make something that is the exact size we need. Would be great if it melted plastic in controlled ammounts in different shapes with comouter controlled precision. I guess maybe some day. Going to measure Legos.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 19 күн бұрын
I approached that with the idea of options. If you have calipers use them, ruler that works too. If you don't feel like holding something there as you micro step a lego duplo happens to be a close enough size. Some could easily make a simple square, rectangle in fusion, solidworks and print it. I figured those that can do that would go straight to that. Thanks for watching, and I appreciate the support! What kind of stuff are you printing? Always curious to see what all everyone is working on?
@spsully2582
@spsully2582 19 күн бұрын
​@@ThePrintasaurusjust pointing out the irony. Very thorough walk through. Not as flashy as some of the other sites, but your explanation and attention to detail exceeds most of them in my opinion. I print all sorts of stuff. I just got done doing 400 clips for Christmas lights. Yes all 400 fit on the plate. 20x20 grid.
@spsully2582
@spsully2582 19 күн бұрын
​@@ThePrintasaurusI'm sure you know, but for your viewers... In orca slicer, -right-click on empty build plate -primitive -cube -scale to 20mm uniform No cad needed
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 18 күн бұрын
@@spsully2582 Wow that is a lot of clips!! I to have a list of things for christmas to print for the kids and wife! I appreciate your opinion as well, that is what I aim to do. I want to make content that is easy to follow and helps people. Eventually I'll have some extra cameras to do all the extra stuff with!
@FoShizzleMyPizzle
@FoShizzleMyPizzle 19 күн бұрын
I can see some curling on the gingerbread house pieces.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 19 күн бұрын
Yes I had some curling initially, which I realize made it into my video. Wet filament was the culprit there. I had it break in the ams twice, soon as I dried it. Things went back to optimal and adhesion was back to what I was seeing throughout testing. Thanks for watching and thanks for the support!
@mitchellout
@mitchellout 20 күн бұрын
Great video, easy to follow and understand. Interested in your view on the calibration/z-offset functionality. With the increasing popularity of quick/cold change nozzles (E3D Revo and Micro Swiss Flowtech), frequent nozzle changes (hardened, hi flow, >0.4) might become more of a thing. The stock automatic z-offset should be of great use. The way Eddy seems to be setup, this doesn't work. Others implement contact/tap (Carthagropher/Beacon), but although this was also worked on for Eddy, this seems not to be finalized or planned yet (to my knowledge). Would you see a combination of the Eddy in conjunction with the load cell as a possible workaround or maybe a less involved calibration procedure than the first calibration?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 19 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching and the support! Very good question, just to add I am testing the micro swiss flowtech soon! I am a fan of the quick change nozzles, I think it adds a ton of versatility and makes the process fast. I have been playing around with the Beta Z-offsets for the eddy coil. The macros allow you to save Z by micro adjustments. So far I'm able to fine tune to an extent but I'm fighting the bed issues now too. The bed I have is far from level, and I'm looking into options to improve things there. Tap is one of my favorites for the reasons you have mentioned. Eddy has the advantage of speed, which is why I wanted to give it a shot. A load cell would be a good option to compliment eddy, I'm hopeful as things advance with Eddy that BTT will offer some extended features. I think it's got potential. The calibration process is lengthy, the temperature compensation is a welcomed addition with the USB version. Beacon is something I'd like to try next, all the feedback I have seen so far has been really positive. I just picked up a Orange Storm Giga, and I'm looking into the "blue storm" which pairs the beacon probe with a Chube hotend. I'll keep you posted on my progress with Eddy and the Sv08, I'd like to continue fine tuning and playing around with the beta macros to see if there is a "secret sauce" to getting things more dialed in and a process to make things more interchangeable. I'm going to run into this scenario when I start working with that flowtech. So I'll have something to create a workflow and finetune what I can to cut down on calibration time. I'll share that as soon as I get it figured out!!
@mitchellout
@mitchellout 18 күн бұрын
@ThePrintasaurus Thanks for the thorough reply. Great to hear you are also considering the same aspects in this printer journey. I've subscribed to your channel, so I'm looking forward to updates on your experiences. Good luck!
@FilmFactry
@FilmFactry 20 күн бұрын
Will there be an Ender 3 size bed version?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 20 күн бұрын
I am not sure. I can email the representative that sent me these plates and get back to you.
@FilmFactry
@FilmFactry 20 күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus Thanks, I have 4 ender 3s and those sound great!
@jeffbezos1453
@jeffbezos1453 20 күн бұрын
After you switched to mainline, did your z offset and calibration settings save? I have noticed that mine are wiped after I turn my sv08 off then on
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 20 күн бұрын
Yes the z offset is saving correctly now. That was one of the main driving factors to moving to mainline klipper. Ultimately to run a different probe (eddy coil). But z-offset was improved significantly. I use probe_calibrate, when you move to mainline you have to do a bit of work to get the sovol macros all to work - one that doesn't work right away after moving over is there calibration macro for the offset. Probe_calibrate is what I use on pretty much all my klipper printers, so I wasn't dependant on that macro working. I plan to go through and do a video on how to get them all configured correctly as I have had a few ask!
@noshiweintraube
@noshiweintraube 21 күн бұрын
Whats the overall hight? A1 mini+Ams from top to bottom? 😊
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 20 күн бұрын
It measures right about 25.5"
@RUS38
@RUS38 21 күн бұрын
I think what they mean when they say dry for 8hrs is when it absorbs moisture, but when it’s sold it already comes dry in a vacuum sealed bag with desiccant, so straight out of the bag it’s already dry enough.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 20 күн бұрын
I have had some filaments come in that weren't vacuum sealed as good as others, and have had to dry those. But for the most part most filaments are good out of the box. With the PLA Galaxy, I had one spool that printed perfectly, and the other did so after it dried! Thanks for watching, I appreciate the support!!
@garyblenkhorn4566
@garyblenkhorn4566 22 күн бұрын
Great VID Aaron. I have my Eddy on order and will be following your steps again.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 22 күн бұрын
This one is way easier than the klipper upgrade too!
@garyblenkhorn4566
@garyblenkhorn4566 21 күн бұрын
I had to reflash my eMMC today after a forced power stop when the z limit failed on me. It must have corrupted something on the eMMC. Redid everything but luckily did not have to flash the MCUs. Luckily I had a backup of all my files so it was much easier this time around. Only took about 30 minutes. .
@KS_Husker
@KS_Husker 22 күн бұрын
This is very helpful. Thank you for sharing.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 22 күн бұрын
No problem at all, happy to help!
@elrictraver8275
@elrictraver8275 22 күн бұрын
@2:40 where did you get those tables? I need some! lol
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 22 күн бұрын
Those are IKEA Alex cabinets that I cut down to 3 drawer units. Lowering them increased stability and still allowed some storage and I can move them around the room when I’m filming!
@elrictraver8275
@elrictraver8275 21 күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus They look very sturdy indeed. I need a few of something like this myself. I'd top with Granite. In my area there are a ton of granite quarries. Makes it really easy to get a slab for cheap. I have a nice work area already, but I need more dedicated spots for printers. Those look like a really brilliant solution to dedicating a space to a printer.
@colinmsmall
@colinmsmall 22 күн бұрын
Great video. Thanks for making it. I see you have some X1 Carbon’s. I own an X1C and I’ve been considering buying an SV08 for the build volume and the ability to upgrade it and tweak it etc.. but I’m curious, as an X1C owner, how do you compare the print quality between the two? My X1C has been a workhorse with consistent amazing print quality.. it just works over and over again. How do you find the print quality of the SV08 in comparison with or without your upgrades so far. I’m not expecting the user experience Bambu offers of course.. just wondering about the print quality you are getting
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 22 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching and that is a great question! The X1C is definitely a level above the SV08 for sure in terms of ease of use and setup. Which is probably the largest difference between say a voron type printer / SV08 voron clone and the Bambu printers. The bambu's just work out of the box, you really don't need a ton of printing experience to have a great printing experience. The SV08 can be a good printer, that offers very similar quality of prints, it just takes some work to get it there. I have the SV08 and a voron 2.4r2 350mm and my Voron prints excellent (But that too is hours of testing and tweaking and upgrades). I will say the upgrades I've done so far inch the SV08 closer to a more expensive Voron 2.4 which is a good thing. If you want something to tinker with, has potential and you need the additional build volume the Sv08 isn't a bad choice. It's on sale now too for black friday / cyber monday so that makes it even more of a bargain. I'm testing some hotends to see if I can further improve print quality. Things are improving greatly, and the side comparison of the same print on the x1c and sv08 is getting harder to tell a difference.
@colinmsmall
@colinmsmall 22 күн бұрын
⁠Thank you! Just knowing that it is possible to get them that close in visual print quality is probably good enough for me to take the plunge.. the price is definitely right. I just found your channel and enjoy these sv08 videos, thanks for taking the time and effort to make them and share your knowledge and experiences etc.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 22 күн бұрын
@@colinmsmall No problem at all! There will be plenty more videos on the SV08. I have been using it more and more lately.
@spsully2582
@spsully2582 19 күн бұрын
​@colinmsmall very different animals. X1c basically needs nothing but only prints so big. Sv08 almost needs upgrading (if not need then definitely would recommend) but here's the real thing. You can make an sv08 print bamboo quality for way less time money and effort than you could dream of getting an x1c to print 350x350x340
@Dutch1969
@Dutch1969 23 күн бұрын
on my sv08 the fan was actually on the connector on the bottom right (the 3 pin connector)
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 23 күн бұрын
Interesting. When did you receive your printer? Mine arrive in early August. I wonder if this is / was a QA check. I'm curious what Pin is assigned to your front fan? I went back and looked at my original print.cfg to make sure I wasn't crazy and it's PB0 - which is the top right, PB1 is the lower fan connector. So my SV08 appeared to ship plugged into the upper right pin!! Now I'm curious if others are experiencing this issue. I'm going to add the pin # for each location in the description so everyone can adjust as needed.
@Dutch1969
@Dutch1969 21 күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus mine is connected to PB1 . [fan_generic fan1] # front model cooling fan pin: extra_mcu:PB1 max_power: 1.0
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 21 күн бұрын
@@Dutch1969 Thanks for following up. I'm going to add that information now, so whomever can use either if the configuration is different. Thanks!
@garyblenkhorn4566
@garyblenkhorn4566 18 күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus there are 2 location where you can plug in the cover fan. They are both Fan 3 PB0. If I could post a pic of all the connection I would. I will email it to you.
@Kamikatze108
@Kamikatze108 17 күн бұрын
I received mine two weeks ago and was also connected bottom right
@The_Privateer
@The_Privateer 23 күн бұрын
Is there any way to use the Eddy device (any of the Eddy models/interfaces) **with** the existing probe pinout already on the toolhead board?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 23 күн бұрын
BTT is supposed to have a can verizon coming out, they currently have one that works with a nighthawk tool board. EBB36/42. BTT also has a duo out that I can't find any additional information on. That supports usb and can. I'm going to try and order one and see if that is an option. I can report back once I've tested and gotten familiar with the duo version.
@treyduval5399
@treyduval5399 22 күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurusI would be interested in what you find out also.
@LovelyBertha-d6e
@LovelyBertha-d6e 15 күн бұрын
Yes but it's not particularly easy. There's I2C on the probe pin header so you can use that and get 5V from somewhere else. Or a regulator on the 24V of the probe pins. I then had communication issues. There's an errata for the st chip used it the toolhead and the workaround didn't seem to work. I don't know what's going on but basically I got it to work by pulling the pins low at start, then pulsing the clock pin a bunch to shake loose the devices on the bus. The pull ups of the I2C bus of the Eddy was too weak so I changed those. And finally there's no temp sensor so I glued an LM75 to the eddy PCB and the I2C. It works well but I'd say it's not worth the hastle.
@Hotkife
@Hotkife 23 күн бұрын
Have you had any "mcu 'eddie' unable to connect" Errors on klipper yet? I did the same install last week on my sv08 and kept getting intermittent freezes mid print coming from the eddy. After some GitHub reading I bought some ferrite cores and used one on the eddy cable and another on the tool head umbilical. I've not had an issue since. This is something to do with EMF Interference apparently. Just dropping this here to save people the headache I had.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 23 күн бұрын
I have not gotten the "mcu eddie unable to connect" yet. I will keep an eye on that. I did not attempt to modify my usb cable, so I wonder if the quality of the shielding isn't good, or if it's shielded at all!! I'll drop a link if I can find a higher quality cable that is cost effective and see if I can do a video on converting to those for the tool head and eddy. Thanks for sharing that information. My plan with this printer is to do a series of upgrades to improve reliability and performance.
@Hotkife
@Hotkife 23 күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus The shielding is the conclusion that was reached on GitHub discussion.
@blaine_th3_mono
@blaine_th3_mono 20 күн бұрын
Hey there! I got this error periodically. It makes my butt hurts when long print fails. I'm running Neptune 4 Plus with Eddy USB. I'll try cores, hope it works.
@Hotkife
@Hotkife 20 күн бұрын
@@blaine_th3_mono I haven't had an issue since sticking the ferrite core on the usb and my hotend umbilical. The latter was just for good measure to be honest. I hope it sorts it out for you
@blaine_th3_mono
@blaine_th3_mono 18 күн бұрын
@@Hotkife Hi! I installed ferrite cores on every interface cable (eddy, usb hub) and carefully would say that as for now have no issues on two long time prints.
@drago2429
@drago2429 24 күн бұрын
Saludos desde españa. It is mandatory to use the "ST Link" I bought an EMMC and the eddy to update it but I didn't know about the ST link. Is it mandatory to use the ST Link?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 23 күн бұрын
The ST Link is what you use to communicate with your EMMC to flash your klipper firmware to. Without it, I'm not sure of a easy way to get your image/firmware on the EMMC chip.
@thefriendlessgamer8552
@thefriendlessgamer8552 24 күн бұрын
Took the 7 days for biqu to finally send out and hopefully not 25 days to get here but I ordered a set of Glacier and I have a bambu supertack waiting for me when the post workers finish striking, it was a day away when they started the strike unfortunately and the quicker delivery will be preferred for me coming straight from bambu if the plate results are the same. Then its down to whichever lasts longer.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 23 күн бұрын
Hopefully that strike is over soon, if not already. I'm sure you are excited to try those new plates! I have a bambu Supertack that still hasn't come in, but will test when it does. My go to plates now are the Glacier, I'm going to revisit after a few hundred print hours and do a comparison to the PEI plate I typically used to see how well they have held up. I'll incorporate the super tack plate as a test to that as well!
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 19 күн бұрын
Did you get your plates? Curious how things are going.
@thefriendlessgamer8552
@thefriendlessgamer8552 19 күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus no strike is still on for the bambu plates, and I ordered from biqu website on 22 nov and it says usually takes 25 days but hopefully sooner.
@thefriendlessgamer8552
@thefriendlessgamer8552 5 күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus took 21 days to arrive but the glacier plates are in my possession still no bambu plate yet.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 4 күн бұрын
@@thefriendlessgamer8552 Finally! I have been using the bambu supertack profile lately with the glacier plates and things have been working great!
@crazylegsmurphy
@crazylegsmurphy 24 күн бұрын
Great video... but there is no TH sound in height. :)
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 23 күн бұрын
Thanks for giving my videos a look!
@Doubletroublefursuits
@Doubletroublefursuits 25 күн бұрын
My printers belts are very loud. I can hear it with the door closed a few rooms away. My apartment also has thick walls. Idk how to fix it. Any suggestions?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 25 күн бұрын
Is it the belts or the stepper motors? The steppers are a bit louder than my Ldo stepper motors on my voron. These have a high pitch sound to them. I’ll look into what can be done and get back to you!
@Doubletroublefursuits
@Doubletroublefursuits 23 күн бұрын
@ sovol has been recommending me things to make it quieter and the latest is changing the belts. I feel like it’s a mix of both but I’m new to serious printing like this so idk.
@Doubletroublefursuits
@Doubletroublefursuits 23 күн бұрын
@ also to note I don’t see a lot of complaints on how loud the machine is. Idk if I’m just crazy or my machine needs tweaking. I was planning on building a cabinet to put it in with sound dampers lining it. But if I can get the machine somewhat quiet without that then I’d be down.
@jakeevans7075
@jakeevans7075 20 күн бұрын
Mine makes a brrt noise from the belts rubbing I think. It's quite loud
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 11 күн бұрын
What did you end up doing? Did sovol have any further recommendations? It is louder than my other machines, but I’ll admit I never really notice as I usually have multiple printers running at any given time.
@HarrisonDavies
@HarrisonDavies 25 күн бұрын
Please turn off auto focus if you’re static.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 25 күн бұрын
Yeah that one was a new lense. Slowly building out my filming equipment and some things are working better than others! Thanks for taken a look and checking out my content! Take care.
@tytinn9141
@tytinn9141 27 күн бұрын
New A1 coming tomorrow, I have the glacier here from Amazon too. Recommend just going to that straight away?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 27 күн бұрын
I really like the glacier so far over my pei build plate. I would say go for it! It’s a very good build plate.
@viorelgheorghe5655
@viorelgheorghe5655 28 күн бұрын
Have you tested with ABS/ASA? I'm interested in nonblended versions
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 28 күн бұрын
I am testing ABS now on the Glacier build plate. I have used Bambu, and Polymaker for testing so far, at the recommended manufacturer bed temps. Both have stuck without issue, so far good adhesion. I'm going to walk back temps and continue to test till adhesion fails or I have warping issues with the ABS. So far things are looking great with ABS. I'll move onto ASA after a few more test cycles.
@RaySchrantz
@RaySchrantz 28 күн бұрын
So I just ordered the Glacier build plate, it hasn't even arrived yet, but now I'm hearing Bambu released their own version of this grippier build plate called the "Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack" Can you do a video comparison for us between BiQu's Cryogrip and the new Bambu SuperTack?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 28 күн бұрын
Hello! Yes no problem at all, I actually just ordered the bambu super tack the other day. When that comes in I can compare the three plates. Supertack vs Glacier vs Frostbite.
@xKenn
@xKenn 16 күн бұрын
I have the SuperTack and it's already peeling after like 3 prints. The adhesion is too good, so I'd avoid printing things with a big flat bottom...they sent me a replacement but I'm probably just gonna sell it lol
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 16 күн бұрын
@@xKenn Thanks for sharing, so far I have about 100 hours or so on these cyrogrip plates and I have not had any quality issues yet.
@xKenn
@xKenn 14 күн бұрын
@@ThePrintasaurus From my own experience I find that hard to believe. I was printing PLA at their recommended temps for both the nozzle and bed, yet it still peeled off the coating. Never encountered such problem with their PEI plates. Honestly, I hate how the CryoGrip blue color looks on the A1 but I might have to give it a try...
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus 14 күн бұрын
@@xKenn I have been using the Glacier as my primary plate at this point, and I have not had the quality issues mentioned. I did receive an "early" plate, I wonder if something happened in the manufacturing process? I saw on one of the forums someone with the Frostbite had what looked like hair under the coating. Now that the supertack plate is out, I have been using that profile in Bambu Studio with my Glacier plate and have had a lot of success printing with it. With the X1 I just leave the build plate detection off. But I have been using the standard temps with it and have not had any lifting or plate issues. I hope this does not become the trend, I have had a few already mentioned some issues with the supertack quality as well. As an added bonus - we lost power yesterday for about 3, 3.5 hours. I lost a print on my pei plate because it released, but the glacier the parts stayed in place and I was able to resume that print and save it. So there is a lot of potential in these coatings for sure. I just hope if there is a current quality issue on the plates they have released now that it gets resolved. I'll email BTT and mention these concerns too.
@vick9843
@vick9843 Ай бұрын
Can’t wait for the BTT EDDY guide!
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus Ай бұрын
Hoping to have that shortly after thanksgiving. Working through some printed parts and fine tuning.
@zakaroonetwork777
@zakaroonetwork777 Ай бұрын
I have old firmware 1-7-4 with no button to update.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus Ай бұрын
Are you trying to update from Handy? Or bambustudio?
@mikapouramo9975
@mikapouramo9975 Ай бұрын
awesome info about this printer
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus Ай бұрын
Thank you, hope it helps! I recently did a video migrating to mainline klipper. Printer performs really well so far, maintains z-offset now. Probe still isn’t perfect but far more manageable. Might be worth looking into if you are wanting to further improve your SV08
@B0A2
@B0A2 Ай бұрын
Have you looked at swapping the build plate?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus Ай бұрын
Oh yes! One of my favorite plates to use on my voron 2.4 350mm is this one, fits perfectly on the sv08. You'd want to get the 355X355mm one. www.fabreeko.com/collections/v2-4/products/honeybadger-v2-4-single-sided-black-pei-textured?variant=42614568452351
@3s1kill
@3s1kill Ай бұрын
Ahhh turn off build plate position detection. I was wondering why every time I print with the generic plates it gives me an error. Something about not being able to scan the plate. Is that what that’s for?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus Ай бұрын
Yup. The idea behind that is to prevent you from printing without a build plate - it does happen lol. Just remember if you disable it to check you have a plate in your printer and it re-enables when you do printer firmware updates, so you'll have to disable again.
@rowlette
@rowlette Ай бұрын
i just got the glacier and during nozzle cleaning a fair amount of the blue coating comes off and sticks to the nozzle 😬 is this normal?
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus Ай бұрын
Is this in the back middle section? That is normal, it's supposed to actually clean the nozzle. Once that wears the coating off a little and goes through a cycle or two of doing that you shouldn't have any further issues.
@pixlpionier
@pixlpionier Ай бұрын
I was curious about the finish of the bottom of your test prints. I only have the Frostbite so I would have loved to see what the Glacier prints look like on the bottom.
@ThePrintasaurus
@ThePrintasaurus Ай бұрын
Send me an email at [email protected] I can send you side by side pictures of the two plates. The Glacier is very similar to a PEI build plate texture, slightly less texture. The frostbite to me has an aggressive texture to it.