Let's tweak the Sovol SV08

[@gregma60]

@ThePrintasaurus I noticed that in the [fan3] section, it was using PA2 for that fan, you changed it to use PA1?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

That is correct, to be able to control fan speed it needs to be set to the correct pin for that fan port. PA1 is the port. Once you have it set correctly you can control your fan speed based on the temperature you set for it to turn on. Below I added the diagram from the sv08 GitHub just as an additional guide. If you have any issues getting things set please let me know! github.com/Sovol3d/SV08/blob/main/Motherboard/MCU_PIN_definition.pdf

[@cowboy124aa3]

One suggestion you might want to look into but is a bit more complicated is adding a BTT Eddy USB or the Beacon probe, The BTT Eddy USB probe is about $34 on amazon or $25 at BTT but takes longer to get, The Beacon Probe is a bit more expensive running at $80 or more depending on the verson you get. These are the heat compensated probes so they don't react to the bed heat like previous versons were prone to. The Eddy probe can scan the whole bed in 20 seconds and has a .5 micron accuracy. I just recieved mine today and will be installing it in my SV08 sometime this week!

[@ThePrintasaurus]

That is awesome, I have an eddy usb sitting here as well I have planned to use with the sv08. I was waiting for mainline klipper to support the eddy sensor and looks like it does with the latest update. Will need to move to mainline from the sv08 fork. Which will take a bit of effort.

[@cowboy124aa3]

@@ThePrintasaurus Ya same, just dreading doing the switch over, i just got the emmc v2 and adapter in the mail also so I can just do a swap when i get it programmed with the mainline! Good luck with your switch over!!..lol Are you gonna do a video on the switch over, would be great to see.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

I do plan to do a video on converting to mainline. Plan to do a whole segment on upgrading and changing the SV08 on a "Budget". Waiting on a few more parts and I'll start converting / filming.

[@cowboy124aa3]

@@ThePrintasaurus Nice, Looking foward to seeing them. I just bought myself the Flsun V400 too literly a few mintues ago...lol. To go along with my 3 resin printers, and my 4 other FDM's...lol Next will be the enclosures for both the SV08 and the V400! Looking foward to printing some helmets for my friends!

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@cowboy124aa3 Let me know how that FLsun V400 is when you get it. Have been thinking about trying one out.

[@Wrath669]

No enclosure on printables link included in description?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Here is a fully printed one, www.printables.com/model/959792-sovol-sv08-enclousure If you want acrylic panels Nadri has good information here: www.printables.com/model/879399-sovol-sv08-panels-for-the-enclosure

[@elrictraver8275]

@2:40 where did you get those tables? I need some! lol

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Those are IKEA Alex cabinets that I cut down to 3 drawer units. Lowering them increased stability and still allowed some storage and I can move them around the room when I’m filming!

[@elrictraver8275]

@@ThePrintasaurus They look very sturdy indeed. I need a few of something like this myself. I'd top with Granite. In my area there are a ton of granite quarries. Makes it really easy to get a slab for cheap. I have a nice work area already, but I need more dedicated spots for printers. Those look like a really brilliant solution to dedicating a space to a printer.

[@mikapouramo9975]

awesome info about this printer

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Thank you, hope it helps! I recently did a video migrating to mainline klipper. Printer performs really well so far, maintains z-offset now. Probe still isn’t perfect but far more manageable. Might be worth looking into if you are wanting to further improve your SV08

[@reinerrosin]

Question about the changes in the [probe] section. I find two line for speed in my file: speed: 15.0 speed 5.0 I don't know whether Klipper takes the first entry or the second one, you changed both to 10. If Klipper takes the second entry this means you speed things up from 5 to 10 mm/s

[@ThePrintasaurus]

The first entry is retraction speed, and the second is homing speed. I set these the same and my probe results seemed more consistent matching speed.

[@reinerrosin]

@@ThePrintasaurus I don't think so - there should be a "lift_speed" and a "speed" entry. For any reason Sovol has put 2 "speed" entries with values of 15.0 and 5.0 and you changed both to 10, I think you speed up lowering the head while probing because the valid value before was 5.0

[@ThePrintasaurus]

I see now!! I changed both lines. I'll get that corrected in my description and see if I can add a tag in the video to reference that. Here's what I have in my notes below. [probe] pin: extra_mcu:PB6 x_offset: -17 y_offset: 10 #z_offset : 0 speed: 10.0 #15 more accuracy slows down speed: 5.0 samples: 3 #2 more accuracy increases samples sample_retract_dist: 5 #2.0 more accuracy lift_speed: 25 #50 more accuracy samples_result: median #average more accuracy samples_tolerance: 0.012 samples_tolerance_retries: 5 #2 more accuracy

[@ThePrintasaurus]

What I have above was as close as I could get things to get any consistency. I have found it very hard to maintain a good Z-offset between power cycles. Now that I am on mainline, I'm interested to see what kind of improvement I can get from the eddy. I have been reading that they too can be temperamental with heat. Do you have plans to move off the sovol fork? Printer has potential, but with it's price point there have been obvious cutbacks on quality, which I think is what makes the voron 2.4 shine in comparison, if you even want to compare! The LDO kits are great, and if you are self sourcing a build you are usually building something top notch as well!

[@reinerrosin]

@@ThePrintasaurus I am planning to move to Mainline Klipper as well and then try Eddy or Klicky, the parts are here already but I did not find the time yet. I am interested in your results as well - is there a better way to communicate than KZbin comments? Concerning my expectations I am not so hopeful to get better results from changing the probe, but maybe the change to Mainline Klipper helps already. When I do several automatic Z levelings I get nearly equal results, this looks like the probe itself is working reliable. I read a comment somewhere about a Klipper error handling the Z value, maybe this will get fixed with updating Klipper. What I've done recently is probing two points several times and calculating the difference. I get similar results which are worsened a little bit after a power on/off, but still within the range of 0.02 mm. This substantiates my assumption that the probe itsself isn't the cause of the deviation.

[@Doubletroublefursuits]

My printers belts are very loud. I can hear it with the door closed a few rooms away. My apartment also has thick walls. Idk how to fix it. Any suggestions?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Is it the belts or the stepper motors? The steppers are a bit louder than my Ldo stepper motors on my voron. These have a high pitch sound to them. I’ll look into what can be done and get back to you!

[@Doubletroublefursuits]

@ sovol has been recommending me things to make it quieter and the latest is changing the belts. I feel like it’s a mix of both but I’m new to serious printing like this so idk.

[@Doubletroublefursuits]

@ also to note I don’t see a lot of complaints on how loud the machine is. Idk if I’m just crazy or my machine needs tweaking. I was planning on building a cabinet to put it in with sound dampers lining it. But if I can get the machine somewhat quiet without that then I’d be down.

[@jakeevans7075]

Mine makes a brrt noise from the belts rubbing I think. It's quite loud

[@ThePrintasaurus]

What did you end up doing? Did sovol have any further recommendations? It is louder than my other machines, but I’ll admit I never really notice as I usually have multiple printers running at any given time.

[@B0A2]

Have you looked at swapping the build plate?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Oh yes! One of my favorite plates to use on my voron 2.4 350mm is this one, fits perfectly on the sv08. You'd want to get the 355X355mm one. www.fabreeko.com/collections/v2-4/products/honeybadger-v2-4-single-sided-black-pei-textured?variant=42614568452351

[@PlaydohYoutube]

Hey Printasaurus, My SV08 resets the Z offset every time I try to print. Especially if I cycle power to the unit. What can I do?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

When you are setting the Z-offset are you using the SV08/screen to do it? Or are you using probe_calibrate? Heat the bed up 60-80c, let it sit to heat soak. Then try and run the probe_calibrate. Manually adjust with a piece of paper (It's recommended to do this with a cold nozzle because it can ooze filament and lead to inaccuracy.) Once you have what you want do a save_config. Klipper should restart to load the new offset setting and it should stay saved. I've found with doing it from the screen on the sv08 through the calibrate Z-offset that it resets after power cycles. I need to look at that Macro further to see what's going on. I'm working on a better Start macro that will z-offset calibration and nozzle wipe before every print to see if that will help with the current probe. Waiting on a few more pieces and I plan to start the change over to mainline klipper and will be moving to a eddy current sensor for the probe. Hoping to have that video out in a few weeks after everything has been tested and I have everything written up to show the upgrade process! I think ultimately this is the way to go!

[@PlaydohYoutube]

Thank you for the in-depth response. I have been using the screen on the machine. I will see if I have better luck trying the probe calibrate when I get home. Cheers

[@reinerrosin]

Many people report in forums and groups that their Z offset isn't saved properly. If you check your printer.cfg you can see what value is saved there. Ensure you save the Z offset after doing an automatic offset, then heat up the bet for 5 - 10 minutes (or more) and manual adjust the Z offset with a test print Even after doing so you might still see a problem with the Z offset. I have to readjust nearly every time when I print, the adjustment variies between -0.07 and +0.07. I think there might be a construction defect coming from the quad gantry level. My other printer is an SV07 Plus which doesn't need any adjustment (also it uses a stored bed mesh) so I guess it must be a build in problem. I will try the changes Printasaurus recommends, maybe this will help

[@PlaydohYoutube]

@reinerrosin You're absolutely right. Even once I bed soaked and adjusted my z offset to the perfect height. My nozzle would either dig into the print bed or float 10mm above the print bed. I got so annoyed with it that I returned the printer. A $800+ printer shouldn't have issues with something as simple as remembering a z offset...

[@seanmccall3568]

Did you mean to use PA1 PIN for the temp fan? We comment out the PA2 fan?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Yup PA1 is the pin you want to you. If you look at this Pin of the motherboard, that is the correct pinout. There's nothing actually plugged in PA2, at least for my release. I received mine around the 1st of August. github.com/Sovol3d/SV08/blob/main/Motherboard/MCU_PIN_definition.pdf

[@3D_Printing]

I can not find Flow Speed, can you help? THANK YOU

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Hey! Your flow speed is your volumetric flow speed. You can find it when you open your filament settings in orca slicer. Down at the bottom. I have further refined and found 20/21 has worked great with a wide range of PLA's I have been testing with.

[@3D_Printing]

@@ThePrintasaurus thank you every sliver has different names for the same thing

[@MistralOz]

@@ThePrintasaurus Hello. Are you sure about you flow for PETG ? After the issue with the nozzle, i slow down it to 12mm3 (for PETG) with better quality (with 15 or upper, that seem very optimist... but maybe it's my setup)

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@MistralOz I have been using California PETG and that seems to behave closer to a HF/HS PETG. I'm going to add a note of that in my settings. What filament are you using?

[@MistralOz]

@@ThePrintasaurus I am using (the most of the time) Kingroon / Overture / eSun. I observed the same with all. I drying them before printing and that is the same.... But : i am not an expert and maybe my overextrusion was related to another point (BTW, from i slow down it, all is now perfect). I should see a friend who know very well vorron printers and maybe he can help me to understand this point (if i have more information i will try to send them on sovol forum).

[@shbenoit]

What do you mean by “commenting out” simply remove it?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

commenting out is a coding term. What I mean by commenting out is whatever line you are removing you would add a # in front of what is on that line, and that makes it inactive. example: # I want to comment out this line When you are testing, or configuring this method is prefered because you can always revert your changes by removing what you added, and uncommenting (removing the #) from the beginning of the line and your code is restored to what you had before. You can remove if that is your preference as well. Once I have my files how I like I usually go back and clean things up by removing. I'll make a backup first incase I need something before I do that.

[@shbenoit]

@ Thank you, I like when I learn and that definitely helped me learn. Good explanation.

[@ss1gohan13]

I recommend changing the probe amount to 5 vs 3 swap back to average in reference to the above; adapt the voron start print macro (better start print macro) and KAMP it'll call whatever your slicer calls and then your probe will become even more accurate as the probe will soak on the bed at the temp you call. Your Z shouldn't change. Also recommend mainlining the SV08 as well.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

I have been playing around with working on a start print for the SV08 that is closer to my Voron. Plan to move to mainline klipper soon as well. Thanks for the inputs and watching. Are you using the SV08?

[@ss1gohan13]

@@ThePrintasaurus yup. I helped write the documention. I was the first one to officially get the sv08 mainlined through trial and error

[@BTom16]

​​@@ss1gohan13You have been a great help to the community. You helped me directly, on the Discord. Thank you for being generous with your time.

[@jonnysimps]

good luck

[@ThePrintasaurus]

How do you like the SV08 so far?

[@jonnysimps]

@@ThePrintasaurus :) my toolhead board is with the distributor of sovol now because it died, 300 hours i think ?? Z offset inconsistency made a print lift off the bed and made 3 of my bambulab hotends to be covered in very hard to remove pla, i switched my hotend out for a bambulab hotend cuz of the defected nozzle printing petg

[@jonnysimps]

@@ThePrintasaurus oh and the heater and thermistor cable broke because of the blob

[@jonnysimps]

@@ThePrintasaurus i really want to change out the toolhead with voron stealthburner with a rapido uhf or a vz bot toolhead but im afraid that i couldnt do it

[@ThePrintasaurus]

I am in the process of comparing tool head options and plan to do a video on how to swap to something better overall. Keep me posted on how your experience goes. Shoot me a email [e-mail] I'll send you what I was looking into, maybe that will help you decision on what to go with. I have also been looking into moving over to mainline Klipper - which you would need to do if you wanted to run a BTT Eddy (most likely what I am going to run). I believe mainline Klipper now supports it. I am going to test on my voron first, then work on converting and improving the SV08 further.

[@snart]

First!

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Thanks!!