Yeah sounds like it sadly. If its just some keys and the same ones and not all the switches on the board its prob that switch/switches that is either bad or over lubed.Only fix is re-soldering a new switch if not hot swap or if it is then try another switch. I have the hot swap version of this board and its fine

Hi there, sorry to sound suspicious. But please stop tugging on the switches before you damage your board. You might be having the soldered version. If you're unsure. You can unscrew the board and check below.

Im gona ask you this did you buy ajazz ak873 or the k870T if its k870T i dont think its hot swappable thats why I bought ak873 and you have to use an switch puller there will be 2 little button type of thing at the bottom of the switch one on north one on south you have to be pressing them or the switch wont release and yes ıf ıt doesn't come out no mater what you do dont push your chances

Hey there, that's not resin. It's silicone. You should be able to get them from art shops or online stores. Some keywords for you to search are "A+B Silicone" or "Liquid Silicone".

@@KLACKERD Hello, I hope you notice this. So, I've been finding A+B Silicone for molding 1:1 or something like that; is that the one you're talking about?

Hey there, really appreciate the support. Really glad that my video helped. And yeah, getting a hot-swap version up front already saved you so much hassle of getting the Millmaxs.

Hey there, sorry I might not be able to answer this. But you might be able to by downloading their software. Think they allow remapping keys and macro.

That’s what I did trust me so good

Yeah that would help improve the sound a lot without most of my methods.

Hey there, it might be caused by the lead residue left in the solder hole. Make sure to suck up all the lead before re-inserting your 0305. Happy soldering!

Hello there! Well, with the right tools and parts, you can definitely do it too. Did you spray lube your blue switches? Do they sound mushy and muted? It's never too late to mod your keyboard though.

Hey there, thank you so much for the support. So sorry for the hiatus. I've been busy for the past year trying to deal with my personal matters. I'll try to have new content out whenever I could. 😉

​@@KLACKERDI would like to see more videos they smell quality

Hey there, glad you enjoyed the video. Honestly, budget was tight once I got the Mill-Maxes. So I figured I'd just give the stock ones some lube and film.

Hi there, I only use it for typing. Gaming, not so much. It has a slight delay.

Hey there, don't feel sad. There are plenty of tutorials out there teaching you about soldering. I learned to solder when I was about your age from my cousins.

You can get the hotswap version or you can get the sk61. It is a very nice keyboard and try get the one with gateron yellows. It is hotswap and easy to mod.

Hey there, thank you so much. Blues are nice too if you like clickies. Are you planning to mod your board too?

@@KLACKERD Yes I think will. Your video greatly motivated me to!! haha :)

@@RazedAngel Appreciate the support. Thank you so much. Good luck with your upgrade and happy keyboarding. ⌨

Hey there, sorry I do not understand Tagalog. But I tried translating it on Google. Do you mean how much the K870T cost? If so, it's around $66/3456.49 Pesos for the non-hotswap version and $81/4242.05 Pesos for the hotswap version.

Yeah, it has been a work in progress. Still trying to unlock more fingers to type properly.

A good swordsmith is not necessarily a good swordsman. Good job 👍 keep it up.

Hello there, thank you so much! Really glad you enjoyed it.

Hi there, the ones I solder on are called Mill-Max 0305s. I would say, if your K870T is the hotswap version, they should be fine. But if you're planning to Mill-Max a soldered PCB, you would have to be on the look out for SMD compatible switches. Because the SMDs on the non-hotswap PCB are extruded and the switches requires a gap.

@@KLACKERD Thanks a lot for the tips. I was actually having a hard time finding the Mill-Max sockets with a reasonable shipping rate to Brazil, but I've managed to buy them from a Czech store. Anyways, that's a great video, I never thought it was possible to turn a keyboard into hot-swap. This will surely help me once the sockets arrive!

@@romulogenuneto You're most welcome. Yeah, shipping fee is a real pain. But wait, have you made the purchase yet? If you have more budget, and if you don't mind, you could try Mill-Max 3305 as they have a lower top profile so the switches can fit better. But good luck with your board too and glad that you enjoyed this video. Happy Keyboarding!

@@KLACKERD Yes I had already made the purchase... I've checked the 3305s but since I'm buying for 2 keyboards it would be too much expensive anyways =/

Hey there, thank you so much! Glad you enjoyed it. I'll do my best.

@@KLACKERD i wanted to ask what materials do you use when making the silicone?

@@chokage3744 I used liquid silicone. Try typing keywords like "Liquid Silicone A+B" and you should have the results. Beware there are different types of liquid silicone. 50:50 and 70:30. This means the ratio between the silicone and the hardener. For mine I used 50:50 which is easier to measure. And get a measuring mug. The one I used in the video was bought from a shop that sells baking stuff. Ultimately, you can get them from Arts & Crafts shops or hardware shops too. I didn't really measure how much to use. A good practice is by emptying the bottom case (must remove battery), tape off all the gaps, lay it on a surface (make sure the bottom case sits flat), mark it then pour water until it hits the markings. Then pour the water into the measuring mug so you'll know how much liquid silicone to use.

@@KLACKERD thank you so muchh for the info <3 never thought you'll give the full details. will recommend you to friends who likes keyboards. thank you so much!

@@chokage3744 You're most welcome! Really appreciate it. Happy keyboarding!

Yeah, sounded deeper after the mod.

Thank you so much! Glad you liked it. Hot-swap is nice, saves you all the soldering hassle. I have not found any aftermarket ones, but I've recently spray-painted my case and swapped the switches out with KTT Kang Whites. It sounds "marbly".

@@KLACKERD I am actually thinking of using a wooden wallpaper to get a nice look with a bit of contrast to the wheel and the buttons. Btw, you earned a new sub :)

@@KLACKERD So I have got mine now and it's pretty damn good after the mods I ave done but my spacebar is rattly on one side? Can you give me a tip waht I should do because I can't holee mod them because they are lubed. Would be great!

Thanks again! Means a lot to me. I'll try to have more videos in the future.

@@funxify7848 I've had similar issues with the spacebar stabs as well. The easiest way is to give them a proper balancing. I used a flat acrylic block to do it (Holee Mod felt mushy so I removed them after). Place it flat on the block and check if the wire is curved. Then turn it upright and do the same thing. And also move the wire to the edge of the block and check if it's a 90 degree bend. Mine were slightly off, by adjusting the bend the ticking went away.

Hey there, glad you enjoyed it. Means a lot to me. Thank you. Yeah, you need to put in quite a bit of effort to mod it. It was a rewarding experience for me though.

@@KLACKERD To be honest, I really wanted to try doing this, making a customized KB, making keycaps and start selling. I just don't know where to start. More power to you and your chanel, brother.

@@dunkplays9797 I'm learning about keyboards the same as you. Power to you too. Perhaps joining a keyboard community could get you started on the right path.

Yes, there's the wire you need to detach before you can fully remove it. I do not own a hot-swap version of this keyboard, but please check if there are any screws holding the PCB down?

@@KLACKERD tysm this helped so much!!

@@buvsicle5697 Welcome. =)

I’m opening mine rn. I think we had the same problem. It’s the on/off slider at the back that’s holding it down 😅

Hey there, did you get the non-hot-swappable version too?

@@KLACKERD Actually mine is not hot swappable too and I do not have any tool or proper switch in my country :( can u mod it pleaseee :(

@@barsozkal385 You should be able to get most of the stuff online. Most of the tools I got from AliExpress.

I did try, but couldn't find any. Might need to be custom-made.

Hey there, the original white shine-through keycaps are ABS. But they included some coloured modifier keycaps which are PBT. The LEDs are north facing so they should be fine.

Hey there, the RGBs on my non-hot-swap version are top-sided surface mounts. If you're getting the hot-swap version, Box Jades should work fine.

Hey there, I got it from my local online seller. Here's a link on AliExpress to refer: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002624392457.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1d8c76dfMD1KeS&algo_pvid=65c65996-6d61-44a9-a563-6ce6f65f04ff&algo_exp_id=65c65996-6d61-44a9-a563-6ce6f65f04ff-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000021448059963%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B135.69%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BMYR%3Bsearch-mainSearch Ultimately, you could try searching for "Liquid Silicone A+B".

Hey there, the silicone is to dampen the hollowness of the board to make it sound "fuller".

@@KLACKERD I also bought this keyboard but hot-swappable. I am not sure that I am capable of doing same great job as you did with silicone, but is there any other way of reducing "hollow" sound of the case?

@@saradavydova2698 Hey there, it's fine if you're worried about using silicone. There are other materials like EVA foam, PE foam, Neoprene, Sorbothane, Noico 80 Mil Sound Deadener, Zip-N-Fit Sound Dampening foam and even Silicone sheets.

Hey there, I've personally haven't encounter this problem before, but could it be something wrong with the shift key? Here's a link for an online keyboard tester: keyboard-test.space/ Perhaps the shift key is being registered the entire time. Hence, when you click on a tab it duplicates it. But that's just my guess.

Hey there, there could be something to do with your stabilizers being rattly? Is your K870T hot-swappable? If so you could try with other switches first. If it still *clicks*, perhaps a good mod/lube job will do the trick.

@@KLACKERD nope, my k870t is a non hotswappable huano switch version, I think at some day, I’m gonna add foam into the spacebar and if I can, I’ll add band-aid into the stabilizers to decrease the rattle sound of the spacebar

@@MTN1601 Yeah, you could try making the spacebar sound fuller too. Regarding the stabs, maybe you could give them a nice ol' balancing before you band-aid mod them. Happy keyboarding.

Hey there. Thank you so much! Unfortunately, I don't own the K680T so I won't be able to provide you any input. Sorry.

@@KLACKERD no worries at all. Thanks a lot for the reply in any case.

@@sptaggert No problem, anytime. Apologies for my late reply too.

Hey there! It's just a normal desoldering pump I got from a hardware shop.

Thank you so much!

Hey there, there are other materials to use like EVA foam, PE foam, Neoprene, Sorbothane, Noico 80 Mil Sound Deadener, Zip-N-Fit Sound Dampening foam and even Silicone sheets.

Thank you!

Hey there, the switches have north facing LEDs.

Hey, thank you so much!

Thanks again. Really appreciate it.

Wow! Thank you so much for the support. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Hey, thank you so much. Did you leave your stab wires in between the plate and PCB? Or are the wires still intact with the stab housings? There is one way, by holding one end with your tweezers and try slotting the stem back. Then repeat on the other side. But you might risk damaging the stabs entirely, so I would advice you do it at your own risk. But yeah, the best and safest way is to desolder the switch and place them back properly. Perhaps you could ask a friend who has soldering knowledge to do it for you? Or try it on a sacrificial PCB? That's how I learned to do that.

@@KLACKERD Yeah, the stab wires are still inside and it's the plastic housing that got removed. I actually got the front part of the housing broke as well. lol I think it's the part that locks the housing into the plate

@@DVirtualsMarketing Oh no, I think desoldering the switches is the only solution. Once the switches are out of the way, you should be able to carefully lift the housings using a tweezer. Please be safe.

@@KLACKERD thanks, man! Hoping to see more fancy videos from you!

@@DVirtualsMarketing Thank you so much! Really hope you can get your keyboard fixed soon. I'm currently in progress of producing a new video. Your support means the world to me!