Nice video. As a 40 year fretless player the only thing I can see that is wrong is that the side position markers are now in the wrong place. A factory fretless , (without the stupid lines), will have the side markers placed at the fret, not between them.

wow, I think Stainless steel frets cause even more damage to the cutter......right?

The machining used to make the ruler has a greater tolerance than a dial caliper. If it was any more accurate than it is, it would no longer be an inexpensive item.

test with a hard wood like maple -plane show diferent in hard wood

Very annoying video. Show us how to use it FFS

where do you have the battery and board located? good video btw.

i've heard that capacitors have an orientation for the mounting. can you explain that? please

Nice video! On my active 2 EQ band Sting Ray, the battery has two wires. Red one goes to + and black to -, but then there is a connection on the circuit plate called "G". Do you know, were should I connect it?

You actually WANT the veneers to swell up, because you don't want the fret slots to compress under string tension & cause a forward bow in the neck.

Nice video! The red wire from the battery goes + and the black goes to -.But beside on the electronic plate there is a "G". Should I connect a wire from there to where? Thanks

Why not mark the radius on the bottom of each veneer, then cut to shape? I used a radius checking tool to mark mine, but a sanding block would work too as a template 😊

What width is the veneer?

Does it matter which leg of the capacitor goes in each spot can it be flipped?

Is The Titebond good For Glueing the kneck to The Body Asking for a recommendation before I do this lol

Does yours cause interference for your remote also

Nice video. Thank you. Just bought a Carivin Jack 2. All of my experience stopping has been with knives. Periodically (like every 2+ years), I need to use alcohol to clean up the stop because it's too gunked up with microscopic metal. You don't need to clean off all the old compound as much as remove the worst of the gunk. Do you recommend the same periodic cleaning to this honing tool?

Is the truss rod tightened when leveling the board

I use mine on some of my leather working tools. Works like a champ. I think I only gave like 14 bux at one of my local woodworking specialty shops, but I know they can be found online for about $15 too. If you use any kind of specialty shaped, oddball, or contoured blades for anything, it’s worth getting. I just wish they offered another model with profiles designed specifically for leatherworking tools. Or I could stop being so lazy and find some wood about that soft and make one for myself. Anyway, get one. You’ll be glad you did.

Sure seems like that gouge would cut a little better if ya lowered the angle of attack to the work a bit. …just an observation.

What a useless video! Didnt explain anything!?

If I just remove the frets and throw on the strings would it be the same as if I did this?

No pickup height adjustment? Cheeseburgers!!!

Where did you get the veneer from? Struggling to find some thin enough for a guitar fret

This is Gold. So clear and helpful. I'm wondering how i would modify this to make a bass cut instead of a treble cut though?

Update, Minn Kota Trolling Motor Part - INTERNAL GROUND WIRE-FUSED W/TERMINALS - 2880310 fixed most of my EMI issues

NICE JOB

You should always heat sink the capacitor before you solder it to ground.

I just got a couple of brass finger planes from Amazon, one curved and one flat bottom and they are just like the set you have here. Mine were about $38 for both and now I'm thinking I should have gotten the set you did. I still might!. Like every plane and most hand tools I ever bought they needed to be honed, but that's just a few minutes work. The IBEX is a very nice design and very well made, but in my thinking, just not worth the much higher cost.

♍️📐⚡️🎸🤘🕊️

Nice job man, I was just going to fill mine with epoxy but this gave me a completely new idea. Thanks!

Excellent clear video, great stuff, cheers 👍

Very helpful vid, thanks!

I just use several coins that i know the thickness of already. Like that I don't need to read minuscule measurements, or get frustrated of half-millimeter differences, which amount to nothing. It simply gives me a quick idea if I need to adjust action

th marine eliminator no more wobbles my man its trolling motors in general

God, cant' there be one video that explain what the frigging marks on the ruler represent in layman's English? I just want to measure what is high or low action.

Man! You're rough with that bass and seema to be rushed. It gave me anxiety! Glad i do my own setups

I had the same problem. The prop is hitting the bottom of the kayak. There is an easy fix! Loosen the two screws on the ball that locks the shaft in place ,while deployed and lower the shaft so that the prop is no longer hitting the kayak ,being sure to mark the shaft at the top of the ball. Now raise the motor and tighten the ball at that mark. It’s a lot easier to do with two people. That should fix the problem!!

As there was already a tbx control for the bridge and middle pups could you not have just bridged the 5 way switch so that it worked with the neck pup too, or would that not have worked with the other tone pot there?

Very good díscription😊 on all

I have the same thing your pin is bent by a bunch of them they’re cheap

You saved me from wrecking my Little Martin! My thought process was the same as the person that made the error you were describing. I peeled back the Martin & Co sticker inside the guitar at the base of the point where the neck marries to the upper bout and I'm glad I did!!! Thanks 😁😅

Great review! I was just about to spend my money in the 36 cm ibex plane, can you give the name of the seller? I found one in eBay but I'd like to get the set from the same vendor, thanks !

Also depending on which lug you run the wire to from the volume, far right or far left lug. It will determine which way is up or down on that tone pot. I like to wire mine so when the pot is turned all the way down, the tone control is completely out of the circuit. To me it makes more sense at 0 the cap is out of the circuit at 10 that cap is fully engaged. Lots of people wire it the other way where 10 the cap is out of the circuit and 0 it is fully engaged. That is why you see many guitarists say I keep my tone control on 10 which means it is out of the circuit at 10. I keep mine on 0 which makes more sense to me since 0 means out of the circuit and 10 means fully engaged in the circuit.

How can that be an accurate truss rod adjustment/measurement, when adjusting string height will change your 2mm? Every thing I've ever learned says that you must fret the low F on the E string and then where the fret board meets the body. Then string height cant play any part in the accuracy of your adjustment..

It did help thank you 🙏

This is the best video I've seen and I've seen PLENTY of them!!!

I dont see this being that big of a deal. As long as its wotking thats all.that matters.

Thx

The capacitor on myvtine control is connected to the right lug(the tone control is face down)

For that repair I'd be strongly inclined to use Acraglas. It's available from Brownell's as a gun stock repair agent, and if it'll handle the pressures of the recoil of a full caliber rifle it should be able to handle resetting that thread in anchor and make for a good solid long term guitar repair.