Your dad's hammer model is called a estwing Big Blue

I believe all of Home Depot's pressure lumber is now ground contact. IMO, the copper treatment is so much worse than the old arsenic treatment, they decided to use the ground contact on all of their dimensional lumber. -Just my guess.

is there any way by looking at the grain that you can be somewhat sure that it wont warp too much?

Nice to know the context of a subject. I don’t like assuming facts without seeing how it was determined. Show me the context.

Nice job Jaime

LET THE MAN SPEAK

Your going to do a thing on hammers you'd ought to know what hammers about

There's golden triangle of how the job my be done. The corners of the triangle are: fast, cheap, well done. And the customer (home owner) and builder have to choose one side of that triangle. If job has to be done well and fast it won't be cheap, if it has to be done well and cheap it may take longer. If they choose fast and cheap it most likely not going to be done properly. All options have some advantages and disadvantages. The "golden point" is in the middle, but it's the hardest point to achieve.

16:11 How many 22 ounce hammers is a 3.5 pound sledge? 3.5 pound is 56 ounces so there's a 2.54 22oz hammers in 3.5lb sledge. Fun fact: 2.54 centimeter is an inch. Greetings from Poland! Let Jamie talks about handplanes (and satisfaction) !

Wood shrinks only minimally in length, meaning with the grain. Not enough to even be noticeable.

In my truck: Sledge Mini sledge Framing hammer (estwing 22 oz) Stiletto both wood and metal handle Rubber mallet Dead blow Hatchet Sometimes an axe always a pulaksi

Can you guys bring these videos back??

You should take a look at the woodworker hammer from Impactpolyhammers. might replace of few of your hammers. Dead blow, with mallet shape and rubber feel.

PERFECT

I put wet pressure treat 2 x 6 boards in my basement to dry for 2 months and about 1 in 14 bowed badly.

Why don't you talk about Cedarcide?

That's how a hyperbaric chamber works.

Hey! I'm so glad to stumble on this channel. I'm a small remodel contractor and between you guys and awesome framers I've really been pushed to start working on a spec house next year I would love to hear more from you guys on the business side if you're ever willing to share more.

Dude I also have my dad's old Estwing. It's not that very unique one. Just a real big Estwing.

that's a great video. Too bad this channel is dead

Please make more of these yall <3

Had to laugh when you showed us the hammer you always carry, the one with the worn-smooth waffle face. I thought they wore smooth from using a cat's paw to remove nails, i.e. remove bent nails or disassemble a mistake. That's how mine wore out.

Great break down but my number one complaint. Are realtors wanting 5-10% commission for no risk and little to no work. But builders take all the risk for 10-20%. It’s insane and the monopoly they have.

Cameraman SHUT UP!’lol

Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.

6:47 = MCA (Micronized Copper Azole) treated. If using this type of lumber where it will be laying flat on the ground, you want it to be in an area where no children or animals will be around it. Toxic stuff.

A very good instructional-video indeed, + quite entertaining as well! Umm.... it's definitely NOT difficult to tell which Brother is the "older-Brother" for sure! Sure glad I watched this, & thanks for sharing with the rest of us, Gentlemen! One type/functional hammer I didn't see in your presentation? Yes, the VERY useful "soild-Brass" hammers of course.

I really want more here on this channel. Personally I'm currently struggeling with wood finishes. I know you already had a video about it, but I made stuff like a counter top extension from OSB and scraps and was wondering what finish to use, so a hot-ish pot or a water spill would ruin the finish. Or a carrying plate for pots directly from the stove. I didn't come up with a good answer other than putting a cork or silicone disk on top.

Home Builders are scam artists with “allowances” that are never accurate. Artificially loading up their profits on the Clients dime.

I bought 7 wet pressure-treated 2x8s at Lowes and assembled them right away into a deck frame, before they had a chance to warp or cup. The frame is held together with hot-dipped lag bolts and has blocking between the joists five feet apart, so they can't warp. I measured the width of all the joists, and they were within a 1/16 of an inch. I'm letting the deck frame sit out in the sun for several days so they can dry, but I'm pretty sure my design will not let them warp or cup. The whole frame can shrink a bit, but that won't matter. When I cut the 4x4 vertical posts, I'm going to use a laser level to get them individually cut to the exact right height. Again, if the 4x4s change dimensions a bit, it won't matter: The weight of the deck should keep them consistent. I think the key to using bigbox store pressure-treated lumber is to get it all put together before it has a chance to warp.

This channel should be revisited and called "Let Jamie Talk!". Great stuff.

I think you guys are helping a ton of wannabes out there. I am one of them😂

There's also fire treated wood. It's red.

So what nails or screws should i use to replace a rotten post on a balcony? I bought a wood post. Pressure treated 10x10cm. I jacked up the balcony and replaced it then i screwed the post from the metal base. I also used a metal plate galvanised on the side at the top. I screwed it in. So i probaby did a lot of things wrong. Maybe screws are too brottle and pressure treated eats up regular nails? Even coated ones because youvscratch the nail when inserrting so what do i do

There are numerous grades of pressure treated wood. It's not just ground vs. non-ground contact. I will describe below: --UC1 is meant only for indoor areas that are fairly dry. This would be used for general house framing for areas not expected to see water. --UC2 is meant for damp (but not wet) indoor areas like basements or bathrooms. --UC3 is made for wet outdoor areas but NOT for ground contact (must be 6" or more above ground). --UC3A is made for areas where water comes in contact but has rapid runoff. --UC3B is designed for when water is a bit more stagnant and will sit longer on the wood. --UC4 is ground contact. --UC4A is "general purpose" ground contact, such as fences, garden beds, etc. --UC4B is "heavy duty" ground contact. Stuff that will sit on the ground, but not necessarily buried. --UC4C is "extreme duty" ground contact and recommended for wood that will be buried as posts, in contact with concrete, exposed to frequent severe weather, or will be submerged in water all (or most) of the time. This is what you want for deck posts, especially if they are going to be buried. --UC5 is salt-water marine grade.

I wish they'd start uploading to this channel again.

Extremely helpful content! I'm about to install 5/4 deck boards next week. What moisture content percentage would you say warrants installing the planks tight vs. gaping?

I enjoy listening Jamie's explanations.. let the man speak!

A 5/4 board is 1-1/4" thick. Not 1" thick. (Its that whole numerator denominator thing). Also, if your cutting or ripping or even scrapping with a chisel boards that are pressure treated, you are effectively removing the treatment and now you have regular lumber. If you do not re-treat the damaged area then don't bother paying the extra money for the PT in the first place.

Thanks for the info. I have been debating whether to use just a kiln dried 4x4 for a shed based that wont be going in the ground. I don't like any of the chemicals they treat the wood with. It seems over the last 20 to 30 years they have been trying to change the chemical treatment they use to make it safer or less bad, but it actually does not last as long. I wanted to get your option on the safeness of cutting PT lumber and the dust created by it. BTW, thanks for creating the this channel. I watch you build houses on the other channel, glad to find this Chanel as well. I enjoy your entire crew building the houses and explaining things as you go. Great personalities make it fun.

Sitting a cupped board out in the sun may take out the cup but it will also curl the ends up...but that's easier to deal with than a huge cup.

To add to the topic... if you rip say a 2x12 in half or if you saw off a few inches in length, don't forget to treat the edges/end grain where you cut with stain or some kind of weather treatment because as Jaime point out, the PT does not penetrate all the way through. Also, wood swells and shrinks differently not only due to the areas that are most exposed to weather (heat, wind, etc.) but also due to grain orientation of each board, a plain sawn stick will relax much differently than a quarter sawn stick. Another reason lumber relaxes differently would be due to the density of the species of wood, how porous it is naturally, old growth (tight growth rings) vs. new growth (rings of younger wood or wood grown too quickly on farms, etc.)

What’s the software at 6:09 ?

As a master Carpenter I can guarantee you from experience that a curved clawhammer will grab smaller nails even brad nails much easier than a straight claw hammer! 🔨.... With that said I must admit that I prefer a straight clawed estwing or even the new dynamic DeWalt hammers which are my favorite so far! As they absorb the shock like nothing else I've used and they are very light yet they swing and hit like a much heavier Hammer!!! Their balance and shape is the best in the business they just got it right and they're not the most expensive by any means!!! I'm sure many people will disagree or not believe me about the DeWalt hammers but I have used three different ones and they have shocked me with their excellent design the newer design is the best that I've used and I've had a lot of hammers the original East wings are still my old favorite but the new dewalt's are great the DeWalt generation right before the new ones was lacking in a lot of design aspects but they sure did fix it as of 2023!!!

Need more of these!!

are you chennel sell me

That house has an amazing view. Love it

Thanks for the advise!

i did not scroll through all the comments to see if someone asked this already. But, do you guys ever off a cost per SF of a specific set of plans that you have built previously? Or, is the majority of your home building completely custom? Also - kudos to eric on slaving for hours (probably even days) to create your spreadsheet. i work for a general contractor in nebraska, and we are constantly updating our own spreadsheets.

I always wanted to know the differences of these finishes, both inside and for outdoors, their applications and etc., thanks Jamie 👍