No longer works, maybe 20% after two years today

This video is no longer accurate. Any Toyota product that’s a few years old costs pretty much the exact same as a brand new Toyota. Probably because the average delivery time is 12 months and nobody wants to wait that long.

Thanks

If you need to get out of a car at 90k miles as suggested, you obviously are not driving a well maintained Honda or Toyota. Buy those brands (Honda less so these days), take care of them, and get 200k miles easily.

There's a very serious problem in this country on Volkswagen and Honda and foreign cars they no longer have the parts people all over America have been waiting over a year to get parts for their car that is just sitting in the garage that they can't drive or use because no one is able to get parts for the car anymore this has been going on for a couple years now it's getting a little attention very little news on it !!!!! If you're thinking about buying a car you should do some research on the internet on how hard it is to get parts for that car listen to me carefully do not trust the dealer

To many people in one video!

Let's say a 10 year old mazda 5 van with less than 1000000 miles and no accident good deal?

How does a buyer take someone else's car to a mechanic? Doesn't the owner/ seller have to do that? Obviously they would have to agree to it. If someone is selling a car that they've only had a couple of years, shouldn't I wonder why they're selling? If it's a good car would they not keep it longer, at least five years?

36k miles in 3 years in USA. Thats stupidly optimistic.

3 year old 50% depreciation...keep going, talk about 9 year old depreciation. Paid $2,400 for a 9 year old Toyota with low miles. Years later with 225,000 miles it's STILL WORTH $2,400 if I wanted to sell it. Y'all are giving horrible advice.

I'm thinking of getting a 14 year old ford e350. They are known for reliable engines. Any thoughts?

How do you if it was a rental etc?

So it's not free?

No shade, great video, but this woman looks like she has snake eyes am I the only one who sees this lmk.

What about a 6 year old car that never ever ever got damaged yet.

How can I actually initiate a Recall on a vehicle?

Just get a classic car from the 60s or something. Even in perfect condition they are still beaters because they are so old. You also don’t have all the extra technology on it. They are also dirt cheap and look good too!

Ez i would buy supra

SIR PLZ REPLY ITS URGENT, Alto k10 ( Vxi) , 2012, 33000 Km driven , Price= Rs. 2,40,000 . Is it good deal sir ??

Great advice if you want to make car payments for the rest of your life. If you get a 3-6 year old reliable car like a Camry or Corolla, you can drive it for 20 years and the maintenance costs are way less than car payments once it is paif off. 100,000 miles is nothing if you have a good car that you maintain properly.

Looking for how old to buy, not advice for selling a car.

New cars are for rich people and fools who do not understand the value of money. Buying a 10 year old car will save you thousands, even after you've paid out to have the failing components replaced. Consider this, an Audi A4 is 30k, whereas a 10 year old Audi A4 is 2.5K. Other than a facelift and newer interior tech most of the mechanical components will be similar if not identical. Also, newer tech can be retrofitted to older cars. Buying a new car when you can't afford it is one of the biggest mistakes one can make in a life time. That money could instead be used to buy property which can then be used to produce an income and appreciate in value. Make yourself rich through passive income, only then should you reward yourself the luxury of a new car. Don't be suprised to find the buzz of a new car is short lived, after that it you'll wish you saved the money and brought the 10 year old car. If cars are way out of your price range how about phones, it's amazing how many fools get suckered into buying the latest iphone / android. Absolutely mental.

I'm voting for buying a used car 5-10 years old model for "poor" people to save money.

Do I have the right to take my ford open recall car to any ford dealer

but Carfax was sued for not fixing cars with recalls and resold them as is.

A Chrysler 200? What? They are least valued among owners according to Consumer Reports.

Cars are now engineered for 200,000 Miles. No reason to sell at 90000 Miles. Not great advice.

Yea, find an HONEST mechanic...good luck

I did some research and determined the following % savings for buying a 3 year old (2015) car, controlling for mileage based on a projected lifespan of 200k miles. These numbers were from my local craigslist equivalent (80% dealership asking prices a opposed to private asking prices). Sample size was 22 Subaru Legacies and 27 Civic Lx's. 2015 vs 2018 Civic Lx: 22% savings 2015 vs 2018 Legacy 2.5i limited and 2.5i average: 16% savings

My advice is don't buy a used car with between 50-70K miles on it. If it has 50k on the clock you will be soon be spending a fortune on it because most car parts are designed to last for about 60k. If it has 70k or more it has probably already had these worn out parts replaced, but don't forget to check the history and demand invoices as proof the work has been done.

My strategy has always been to buy for £3000 run for 5 years then sell for £1000, it can be done and you can buy decent enough cars that look the part and can go the distance. I used to buy more expensive high end cars but I worked out the money I was throwing away was better allocated elsewhere.

Good hair.

talking about Economy cars that are cheap build and made to look like high end quality cars that cost a lot more i seen a 1983 GMC Jimmy with over 300,xxxx miles on the original engine from the factory.....cheap cars are built cheap you get what you pay for ...that's why a BMW cost more than a Honda ...don't listen to this guy he's a dork

why so many people drives vintage cars in USA? last years I saw 100 years old cars on the road. one of the got overheated on the hill.

Lease, dont buy

If you avoid flash cars and French ones most cars easy do 200,000 miles don't be scarred off by milage but watch dualmass flywheels and oil coolers on vws

I have a 2001 Chevrolet Impala with 224,300 miles, with original engine, but original transmission was rebuilt at 223,000 for under $2,000. It has never been wrecked and drives extremely smooth and extremely quiet. I plan on driving this a very long time, and saving a lot of money doing this. I believe the engine will make it to more than 300,000, because oil was changed very often, and easy with startups. Many of the miles were interstate miles, and continue to be. Taking care of your car, knowing your car history personally, and saving the headache of paying tax on another car that you don't know the history, is in my opinion, not always the best idea.

I bought a vw golf for 1600 drove it for 4 years sold it for 1000, spent 300 on issues

Bought a golf mk4 tdi with 151000 miles but full service history for 1200 had it 3 years had not 1 problem with it best thing ive ever bought.

I drive a green Datsun Stanza T11 1982. and it drives well, Very reliable, low cost.. My grandmother bought this new. I will never sell my Datsun.

If I lived in LA I would daily drive a 60s car, no salt on the roads and no winter.

Unless if you buy a Honda. You're good for 300,000 miles. If you buy a car from FCA, or GM, well good luck.

In the year 2002 I bought a 1990 toyota pick up for $1,800 dollars. Took the truck home, used about another $400 dollars and replaced the following parts. Radiator, water pump, spark plugs and cables, thermostat, main hoses, a good oil change and a k&n filter. After that, my used little pick up lasted me for ever. So with about $2,200 bucks I ended up getting a very old but very reliable little truck which I enjoyed a lot. Later I spent about another $3,00 dollar to custom upholster the seat and also bought some nice mustang rims to make it look a bit nicer. This truck helped me save the money to later buy a very nice looking but used BMW car. At the end the BMW ended up being a piece of shit car, bad investment compared to my forever little pick up.

70 Nova. V8, what you get 10 miles to the gallon?????

STAY AWAY FROM RENTAL CARS. PEOPLE RUN THOSE THINGS RAGGED JUST BECAUSE THEY KNOW THEY CAN. Never buy a car that spent its life being driven by people who had no interest in taking care of it.

I just picked up a 2006 vehicle for $2.5K with 160K on it. just threw $750 at it to seal up the leaks and will throw $1750 to do the clutch. The engines are good for @ 250-300K miles. My use timetable is 5 years, starting today. I think it will work and am placing my bets accordingly. Expect a walkaway value of the vehicle after 5 years to = $0, but the calculation in comparison of a high value used at a $275/mo for 48 months (+ collision insurance and reg) dictates that if I went there it's a cost of @ $14K. My spend will be 1/2 that, putting $2K in reserve for a new A/C when that blows. I think its a damn good gamble.

Got a 1997 Dodge Ram extended cab with 225k and runs GREAT!

While I agree that buying at about the 3 year-old stage is a good idea I think the optimum point for selling depends on the quality of the car and whether you have access to a reliable indy garage or have a degree of car servicing/repair capability yourself. 90k seems way too early if it's a quality car (Lexus, BMW etc) and you are able to avoid franchise dealer parts & labour charges on the minor replacement such a car likely needs (gaiters, bushes, belts, hoses - basically the rubber-goods!). I've used the same garage since 1980 and they always give me a very good deal. Buying outgoing models is a good idea - they take a hit when the new model comes out but it's likely any major issues that should be avoided will be readily know (I got a great low-mileage E34 BMW after the E39 came out and avoided the BMW Nikasil issue). Buying an unpopular colour can help - my current Subaru is that metallic beige that meant it sat in the dealership till they axed the price. Also, by not buying the, then new, boxer diesel I avoided the crank breakage issue that hit that engine. I have had only 3 family cars since 1982 with a combined purchase cost of under £29,000 (~$40k) a depreciation hit of under $1100/year and falling as I get more years out of my current car - less still if I factor in the insurance payout when car #1 got written off.

First it is not about years of the car, is about how many number are on the clock and what brand is the car. For all my researching with a different mechanic there are 3 options in cars brand in the first category. (Average use, for average people). Subaru, mazda and toyota. (Three of them are realeble car, but the cost of fixing if this occurs from expensie to cheap is the same order above....but it is really hard that happen ) mechanic always said to me, pick a Toyota one under 100.000 k runned with 1.5 c.c or 1.8 c.c and you do not can get wrong. The next category is korean one (Hyunday and kia)...both are almost as good as the first one category, but no resale price and few factory issues in some of them model. (But value and price really good). And if you wants something better than Toyota go for Lexus (that is Toyota high class segment). I got a Toyota Yaris 2009 I bought in 2016 with 60.000 k on the clock, 1.5 engine and mechanical transmition. I just like it. Ps. My advice is to learn how to change the oil and oil filter, do this between 3.500 k or 5.000 k. A weekly outside hand wahing at an high pressure place with 2 o 3 coins. Do the service in the Maintenance car by the dealer when apply...(or your trusted mechanic....if few still are there) Keep with good wheels (no expensive one). And you going to laugh....until 250.000 k easy....

Good advice but really basic with a ton of caveats But none the less safe stuff Though you’ll always be care shopping... I feel better get a good used car ( considering the make and model) then investing the money ( great mechanics) and holding til 250 to300 k