450whp is about the limit for stock motor when tuned well. Even then it likely won’t last forever.

Without testing you won’t be able to tell just how much it affects visuals aside.

@@stratifiedauto But you can compare to other intake that has smoother pipes that they seem to make more than this. Those don't even include a charge pipe.

I don’t think anyone is not diggin’. Everyone can make their own choice.

So we haven’t had issues during 1 track day. Then we rolled the ends as a precaution. We have a local customer with one and he hasn’t mentioned issues either.

With tuning

With tuning. With tuning you get to really optimize the entire powerband. Otherwise gains tend to be more just on the top end.

I would imagine the power is ALL in the tune. With ECU controlled boost in modern cars, 15psi is 15psi no matter what filter it goes through.

There is a tradeoff between filtering capability and flow. Most high flow filters will filter in this range. It also depends on your environment.

@@stratifiedauto I stopped using K&N filters years ago. Yes k&n lets in more air & make more hp - YES If memory serves- from what I read back in the day - along with letting more air comes more particulate matter which is NOT good for your motor. It is a matter of physics - larger openings let in larger amounts of air & other SH*T So Buyer Beware WRT K&N.

You can have flow or you can have high filtration. Not both.

most people i know dont even run filters on their turbos.

@@jordonboring3729 Good to know- I'll Never buy such a poorly cared for vehicle

Porsche is generally quite friendly with the aftermarket.

@stratifiedauto is it better to let them know before an appointement or just hope they don't notice it?

It does mean yes that fuel is flowing back into the tank.

I don’t recommend it on a stock tune.

@@stratifiedautocould it run on a stock tune for a weeks worth of work commute? Having one being put in

It’s all of those things. And satisfying when things start to come together.

Awesome keep watching the series! It gets better and better.

They don’t provide nearly as much fuel as aux fuel does.

Putting down power is challenging but it’s also part of the fun to manage traction.

@@stratifiedauto spinnin' ain't winnin' lol. Yeah it is fun though breaking traction in 3rd gear.

It’s not especially on a GTI and a bigger turbo where the injectors are smaller than an R and turbo flows well up top. Also it keeps those intake valves nice and clean and gives you better control of the LPFP since the kit comes with a pressure sensor for the low side.

Each car is a bit different but the R with the bigger turbo will comfortably go 420-430whp with ethanol and bolt ons.

Thank you Mitch. These motors are impressive. Punch well above the class.

The power train is very solid.

It's okay if you stick to your manual, tune it, drive it hard and do preventative maintenance; give this car 10 years before I'd trade it if purchased new. By driving hard, you're taking this out 2x a week, running it for 20 minutes or more and keeping it above 3k RPM. Then, let it settle down, let the oil cool down, and enjoy your ride. This keeps carbon buildup to a minimum because most of these cars are purchased as commuter cars, rarely see 5k rpm and seldom fully reach operating temperatures during their morning drive....all terrible things when you're looking to prevent carbon buildup, a carbon cleaning cost anywhere from $400-800 dollars. With no tune and driving like a Normie, with the occasional long trip, it's more expensive than most to maintain. All the decarb, fluids, gas, etc., still need to be done, but you're not getting the jaw-dropping performance in between. My Mk7 GTI performance ( Autobahn US Market) went 170k km and was tuned from 6k km till death, with no carbon buildup....death was a phase cam washer failure...a little thumb-sized metal washer thing broke to bits and killed my baby. However, it was still getting 5.7l per 100km highway and spanking last 2012 GT Mustangs (the retro classics) up to that previous week. The only things that mechanically broke were 1)the stock LSD (track day failure) 54k k and 2) the water pump 62k km (40% of these failed before 75k km). The water pump should be treated like a maintenance item, just as Honda does. Electronics only became an issue in extreme heat and cold...AC crapped out on a 45C summer trip. It didn't fail, but it blew warm air unless set to maximum. I had to go into the settings and change sthe basic AC settings for max ac all the time instead of at max. The stock setting is region-specific, and most people never dive into those settings. I watched a 15-minute KZbin video, while I sweated my balls off, and had that set. This allowed the ex-wife and I to stay cool in the car with our standard climate settings and low fan speed without freezing to death with max blower and max AC. Paint protection is nice but optional. There are thin spots, so be careful when you get that worked on. Sunroof leaks/squeaks-If you hear it squeaking over bumps, it will leak come winter. A little bit of water freezing between the seals will lift the thing and cause water to get into the car or the controls for the sunroof by the sunglasses holder. Either grease it twice a year and clean it out, like I did, or keep it in a garage, like my friend did. Or I don't get the sunroof (like I did on my 2024 GTI). After fixing my car for almost 10k, I traded it in for a Mk 8 GTI Autobahn (SE USD). I regret not waiting for a low km Performance. After driving with Dynamic chassis control for almost 10 years, switching to passive suspension is weird and somewhat unsettling. I read the road more instead of the car reading my mind. There's no difference on the track, but when driving around on janky roads, this is noticeable if you had active suspension before. The new car is stiffer than the old car and bump and dumps will knock out a filling if you're going at speed. Tires: If you drive hard, buy track tires/rims and save yourself being worried about destroying the stock rims. If you drive in the winter, buy winter tires and wheels, just do it, no more argument if they make a difference don't be one of those dicks doing 25 in a 50 zone because you're a cheap and stupid. If you have no idea what I'm talking about, buy Continental DWS, and you'll be fine. The D (dry), W (wet), S (snow) are some of the best all season tires I've found. Once the S is gone don't use it in the winter. Get the alignment done once a year and the tires rotated with every other oil change, and you are FINE Headlights - really good with HID options, crappy with base car. They are expensive to change, and many used cars will need new ones. Reliability - 7.5 Performance (stock) - 7 Performance (tuned) - 9.0 (get an R if you want a 10) there's a lot of things you could change, but don't need to. If you have Adaptive suspension...you can leave it pretty much alone or just lower it with progressives. Brakes are good but can be improved but you're not going to get MORE performance out of them. Remove the back seat for weight reduction...remove spare tire, remove subwoofer. The car will handle and move a little better. otherwise there car is really good as is. Fuel economy - 9.5 - depending on the year and tune premium is required, while the newer cars are good with 87 octane...crazy. Bang for the buck - 8, the Hyundai N models are the real deal if you want performance and money savings...However, they don't have the quality inside, and it shows. I've got nothing else to say about the GTI - I tested many an R; stock they have to go flat out to "feel" faster than a tuned GTI. The new golf R with the trick rear diff feels more like a GTI in the handling department and these will be interesting in the used market in a few years. If you want better performance, handling, comfort, fuel economy, and cargo capacity....the Type R Civic is the only thing that comes to mind. The other is a Mazda 3 with a 2.5 turbo...but the handling sucks when pushed.

Ive had my 2024 MK8 GTI DSG for about 3 months now. Ive been to the dealer 3 separate times and sadly am still having issues. They have replaced the module in the roof because it freaked out and called roadside assistance every 3 seconds, sun roof would not open and the interior lights turned on and off for the entire ride home. The tire pressure sensors did not work and reported all the tires being under pressure but i verified all had 39psi. I have another appointment this week for a check engine light and error: drive system message. The powertrain has been flawless its just the tech and everything touch that has been an issue.

Yes it’s one of our first episodes.

@stratifiedauto oh I meant stock header and a custom Ecutek tune. I don't believe I saw one

We definitely tuned it with the stock headers as well. There is definitely power to be made and the OEM headers on the gen2 are pretty good.

@@stratifiedautocool. That is good to hear since I'm planning to stick with the stock header with just a cat back

Yes that’s about right. The mk8 GTI jumped up to is38 power levels and the mk8r just to pmax stg1 power levels. This is why Garrett now offers the mk7 pmax for that mk8 GTI and a larger 63mm wheel pmax for the mk8 R. The intercooler is usually a 10hp bump but has the bigger benefit of sustaining the power level when driven hard for longer or in hot temps. The only downside is the weight on the nose.

@ does Garrett sell the mk8 GTI turbo for the mk7? The pmax seems to have a bit more lag in it

Hmmmm, I don't think the MK8 has been out long enough to determine its reliability of its turbo's. Also, IS38's are pretty solid turbos. 130k miles on mine, custom tuned on meth, and zero issues with it. Its the IS20's that were more problematic.

@@tjprovo24 I've heard the exact opposite. I never hear of IS20 problems but I head so many stories of people who've has IS38's fail anywhere between 40-60k miles and some people say they've gone through two IS38s in rapid succession. It seems to be you either get a really good one or a bad one

No it sells the pmax here. www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=332_240_256&products_id=1055

Couldn't agree more!

The chassis and tuning is much better too. Rotates in corners much better than MK7. I don’t feel the mk8 needs a rear sway bar.

the mk8 gti cannot compare to the tuning potential of the mk8R trust me. Until you've felt borderline 500hp crank on the mk8R on e85 stock turbo (my setup), you haven't felt anything yet.

@@blam9346practically same motors, besides a slightly bigger turbo. How much different you think tuning really is gonna be on a car worth 10-15k more then the GTI 😂

The turbo in the mk8 GTI is about is38 sized. That helps.

@@stratifiedauto Close its still about 20whp lower than an is38 from what Ive seen.

Eggs to rockets is what we do!

Thank you. We have aligned the dyno with the industry standards. The numbers read are the same but this time they are corrected.

Yup I am sure it will get there. The transmissions even on stock software are keeping up.

Thank you!

Franco great to hear from you! Looking forward to working with you on your R! Lots of potential to unlock!

mk8 bolt on potential is nice but the 7.5R imo is a goated look. such a good looking car.

Did not have any such issues. It’s either an install issue or a tune issue. Would be happy to dial this turbo in for you.

Thanks! 👍

I think you will really enjoy the final product!

This adventure started almost 2 years ago

@ I figured it was a while ago since that car has been at your shop ever since I’ve been a customer. The funny thing is, I know the person you bought it off and he lives 60 seconds from my house. Ha

Small world. Also the island has a lot of cool cars.

You will like the video series that we are about to release!

We can definitely tune the TCU for you. You would need a Cobb AP. www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=332_240_254&products_id=986

Yes we have a new video in the works! Coming soon!

@@stratifiedauto Just picked up an accessport and wondering what your custom tuning philosophy might be. I suppose it would be an e-tune. Haven't seen anyone use the Cobb unit to alter exhaust valve position and other PIWIS functions related to engine performance (with respect to CARB regulations of course).

@@stratifiedauto Great, can't wait for the new vid. Are those gains for the 992 T you posted from the Cobb OTS 93 tune?

We have the tunes on sale here. www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=358&products_id=1160

We would definitely love to give it another run. VTEC was fixed on the dyno. Without vtec it only made around 150whp.

There’s no bad place to start. Get out there and get wrenching and learning.

@stratifiedauto 🙏

Thank you!

VTEC Academy too! kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKeWqoSHg7KEfbc

Thanks for the tips!

There will be more than you.

Thank you! Glad to have you on board!

Great to have you stop by and meet you Mitch!

Thank you sir!

Thank you. We’re still making things fast!

Thank you so much 😁

and another sub

Thank you!