Because the car wasn’t on. No battery hooked up. It’s a scrap car unit.

There was only one leak, and that’s the result of it being from the oil pan and was fixed. It’s residual, I use my truck as a truck. And let’s face it, it’s free rust prevention haha.

Yup, Dodge decided it was a great idea to change it up on the newer 4.7’s so we could experience the 5.7l 16 spark plug changeover haha. Their logic is more efficiency of power and for emissions with the 16 plug design. Sounds about right with the coil-pack boots too. Very brittle if they’ve never been removed. Good chance the plugs you removed maybe original or at least pretty damn old after being changed once.

You would remove the valve covers, (also inspect the plugs and I’d advise changing them at this point too), change the valve cover gaskets. Clean the oil off the coil packs with electronic cleaner. And then you’re good to go. Not a huge issue to deal with but can lead to major problems if left in the condition it’s in. Misfiring an engine can cause internal damage and wastes fuel as well.

Been there and dealt with that before, I’d suggest trying to use a bolt head extractor. The kits are decently cheap $10-$30 for a full set, you will use them and they’re worth their weight in gold. You can set one of those on the bolt head and try to tap it into place, leverage it on with a pry bar. Then use a long handle ratchet and carefully back it off. The splines on the extractor only go one way, do not try to rotate clockwise, you’ll just slip off the bolt and won’t be able to bite onto it again. If this fails, you can try a smaller metric or standard 12 point socket that will bite onto it. Again, tap it on and try to back it off. I have really good luck with this method as well. Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes. Good luck. And if all else fails, you should be able to unbolt the power steering pump without removing the hoses and keep all the fluid in place. Unbolt, shift it out of the way and then proceed.

@@That_Bearded_MechanicHey so I got the cover off and I’m looking at the inside of the differential and found where the roll pin sits. Problem is, it isn’t the usual unbolt and set free but I tried punching it a little bit and then it stopped but I cannot see it come out on the other side, I saw movement initially when it was moving and I’m worried about hitting any harder and musbrooming it. It also seems like my punches aren’t long enough to fully go through? I’m just being cautious because the last thing I need is for more problems to occur. Thanks

You’ll need a long skinny punch then to tap it through. Make sure it’s the same size as the roll pin you’re tapping through to avoid mushrooming but not too tight so it gets stuck in the roll pin hole once tapped through. Give it a good firm tap but not like you’re smacking in nails if that makes sense.

This pilot was doing both (under and over the lines), I see them every year up and down this highway doing exactly this.

Haha nope, but when we do find him, let us all know. I’m sure there’s plenty of us wanting to discuss it with him haha 😂

Basically need a whole new transfer case assembly. A used one with a warranty from a reputable parts wrecker could be anywhere from $200 to $1,800 Canadian (referencing my local yards). For a new assembly, easily $2,000 and up. Labour rate hours are in the range of 5 hours depending on what table you’re using and also dependant upon shop hourly rate. For example my shop run, I would charge 5 hours @ $85/ hr to replace this plus fluids. It’s definitely a costly mistake. The most common cause of this I’ve seen, is from improperly towing a vehicle (whether tow truck or flat towing behind another vehicle) and it’s left in 4x4/ 4 Low. Also can be caused from someone driving in 4 Low at highway speeds and it eventually fails due to friction and blows itself up.

EXACTLY! And the trays do indeed rust away on these Journeys. I’ve worked on a few over the years (in the rust belt of Canada) and have had to weld up or reinforce the battery trays of a few. Especially considering the engine bay can fit a battery in there if it were better organized. And as far as I’m concerned, it’s a safety issue for the fact you should ALWAYS be able to replace your battery on the side of the highway or a parking lot for that matter with ease. I speak from experience having to replace a few batteries over the years in my vehicles in the middle of -50c Winters and needing to get home. Had I not been able to, I probably would’ve been in a bad situation, especially after the parts store closed when I was in the middle of nowhere.

Yes you can. Also adjust shift points and tire sizing if going larger. It’s a very useful tool and bang for the buck if you find one cheap that’s used, just please make sure it’s not VIN locked to the persons vehicle. It will be useless for you in that case, and when you have it, try to keep it safe, because it will download your factory tune, and replace it. Then if you ever sell it, you’ll need to transfer your truck back to the stock tune if you wanna upgrade to another tuner etc. Hope this helps.

I’m not too sure what you’re asking. But if it’s regarding a method to get into the car, then yes a tool like this can work. It’s been used plenty of times before in cases of child or pet neglect where someone locked their kid in a hot car on a Summer day, which is EXTREMELY dangerous and should never be done. Regardless of windows being cracked or AC left on. AC can fail and windows being cracked is not enough air movement. Hope this answered your question.

No, you’ll have the same issue as these hammers. The laminated glass has the sheet of laminate in there that holds it all together. Safer to use the hammer to smash the laminate and tempered. Especially when it comes to the laminate because you can keep your hand clear of the glass and be more forceful to eventually get through it. I show in this video here where I’m smashing through the laminated glass and basically cutting a line in it where you can eventually push through it. It is older laminate, so it’s not as strong as newer vehicles (this was an early 90’s vehicle) Takes more effort, so for time in an emergency situation, always try the rear windows. 99% of the time those will be tempered and shatter.

Most certainly could cause drivability issues in the front. Especially if it’s bound up the internal gears inside the front differential. But you may have another issue at play if you’re unable to rev your truck up or rev it and driver in gear. Anything from poor fuel flow, clogged exhaust/ catalytic converters or even the transmission/ torque converter issue. I would definitely check the transmission fluid level if you’re unable to drive/ rev it and go in gear.

Appreciate that, glad it helped!

I always make an effort to reply back on my comments for those asking help. Interesting that there was rubber around them, possibly came from the coil pack boots? You can replace the boots for sure if they’re cracked or show issues. You don’t want them grounding out in the spark plug cylinder tubes. They need to be sealed and they also keep junk from getting into the spark plug tubes too.

Haha I’m not too sure why they designed it as such. But I’m possibly assuming an Engineer caught his missus in bed with a Mechanic and then it went all downhill from there for us Mechanics as they forever vowed revenge to make our lives hard hahaha They’re great vehicles but I agree for sure, you should always be able to do something like change a battery in a parking lot. Especially for the safety factor to not be stranded somwhere. Cheers 🍻

Yup, I use this method as well and have for years now. Super handy with those hard to reach plugs.

I would do the same, but it was the timeline to do the brakes because they needed the truck the very next morning for work, it’s a construction vehicle. I get where you’re coming from, because I normally do the same thing for jobs I’m already half way into. But at the time of servicing, all parts stores were closed at this time and I was on a deadline. They still appreciated it and followed through with the repairs a week later once the truck could be not required in service. And was offered a discount rate on labour for following through with the repair when quoted on original pick up day after notifying of the issue found.

Absolutely, it's not always about the cheapest price.

Thanks! And glad to see another appreciate the now “less desirable” body style. Definitely can’t go wrong with these old ones, they’re solid, parts are available and they look decent when lifted.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic yes sir

It’s honestly not all that hard. You just gotta be careful of re-torquing the bolts to the rocker cam. You can easily snap them. And in-fact, this customer several weeks after I advised him attempted the repair himself and ended up snapping one or them. So now he’s wanting me to repair that and continue the replacement of the pushrods etc.

This Equinox was from Ontario actually. A lot worse than Manitoba rust belt cars.

I know the feeling of getting into a rabbit hole... 😅 It gets to the point where you just wanna stop looking at things because of how bad it’s getting. Thats the great thing about KZbin now, there’s plenty of reputable channels that can help people and basic tools to do majority of the jobs are cheap for DIY guys. And this customer followed through with the CV axle and wheel hub advisement thankfully. The odd time I have customer that reject the job advisement, only bad thing in doing that is the cheap repair becomes even more expensive with other things failing.

You got that right haha

It's about doing the right thing and going the extra mile. 🫡

The upper balljoint is perfectly fine and has zero play in it. The “black” you see is because it’s the clean portion as it sits against the knuckle assembly when under the weight of the truck. It’s hanging in the air right now.

Adjust in small increments and cycle the shifter to see where it lands on each gear. It should cycle the other way freely though. If not, it could be bound up. You can remove that cog wheel assembly by unscrewing it from the bracket (the torx head screw that’s visible in my video). But be careful that you don’t yank on it. It’s attached to the cable and attached to the linkage into the cluster. Inspect and see if there’s anything hanging up on it. Hope this helps.

Thank you! Thats exactly what I aim for. Short and precise information.

They can, but if they’re that stubborn, my method works. I’ve had some luck with a larger slide hammer, but they weren’t rusted/ seized in place.

Typically on newer trucks there’s no caps for the hub bearing where the axle nut is on 4x4 models. On rear wheel drive trucks, the front hub bearings do have a seal cover on the backside though.

​@That_Bearded_Mechanic did you do a replacement video?

@Rowen170 I actually have one I’m currently editing. Was in a time crunch so it’s a lot of video I need to shorten. I will try and post it within. The week along with all the others I’m editing.

Haha, she most certainly has. Especially being in the rust belt of Canada. Gets it done though and worth its weight in gold.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic it's great when you find a tool that works for you and can take a beating!

If it’s just spinning, you can use a pry-bar to try and leverage it out of there. You can also try to use a screw and screw into it, then take a share par and try to leverage out that way by carefully prying on the bolt with a prybar.

This is very true

I’m located in Manitoba.

Flew UNDER the line. I was literally right there recording this. He did this a few times. Time to open your eyes. Maybe get a better screen or phone perhaps? 🤔 I have a still shot buried in my phone that even shows the wires BEHIND the plane as he’s pulling up under them.

The one I’m replacing is the passenger side in the video. The driver side and passenger sides will be different. And they’re different for manual and automatic transmissions. NAPA does make one for the older 1st generation CRV and the newer 1st generation CRV’s.

Gotta love engineers right? Wait till you hear where they hide the starter on a Bentley Continental… It’s within the bell housing. You have to drop the drivetrain to replace it.

🫡 no problem

I can’t think of what else there would be on the passenger side besides the PCM. You can send a photo of it to my email: ThatBeardedMechanic @ gmail.com (no spaces). How bad was the engine overheat? Shut her down immediately or did she run long enough to shut herself down?

The Old Man Emu lift coils work out to be a lift of about 2” when settled. Along with brand new shocks, you’ll be able to attain and keep that lift height opposed to using old shocks and new springs. I have factory control arms in at that time of the video. I since replaced them out for MOOG ones I believe.

Glad it was helpful!

I couldn’t even tell ya man. I didn’t apply it. But I can give an educated guess that you’ll need several, and to mix the JB weld really well along with prepping the area very well too. Take that information at your own risk though.

Haha yup, you definitely can’t beat a rust/ corrosion weld for keeping things tight

Hello, is you’re completely not working or intermittent? You probably have a failed crank position sensor. The crank position sensor sends signal pulses to the PCM, then the PCM sends the signal to the tachometer via the BUS network. And on a slim occasion, your tachometer/ dash cluster itself could have failed. You can do a cluster reset/ test by cycling the key three times fast to the ON position. And then leave it in the ON position on the third cycle, you need to hold the trip odometer button while doing this the entire time. I have a video showing this too on KZbin. Hope this helps.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic i will try that then, I was wanting to change the cam sencer, crank sensor and TPS replacement but if the reset on the cluster will work that would be amazing

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic everything on the cluster works besides rpms

@DaRazor405 yup always start with the easiest thing. Also confirms if it’s working. It should cycle like I show in my video. Okay so it appears you have a faulty cluster/ tachometer then, you can confirm if the harnesses are loose or have issues on the backside to confirm.