I have the 5th XL and I recently had a problem with mine. At first I thought that it may have a clogged nozzle, but that wasn't it. Slowly, it got to a point that three of the five tool heads weren't extruding filament properly. One of the three produced horrible prints that looked like the filament was either very wet, or bad in some way. The the different toolheads started having problems with all types of filament (PLA, TPU, and ABS). It seemed that PETG was about the only thing I could print with, and not always that great. When I first got the printer it would print great no matter what I used. After lots of testing, toolhead swapping, and research, I found a post where a user was having a problem similar to mine with the MK4. It involved the idler arm on the toolhead. When Prusa shipped my XL it came equipped with idler arms printed with PETG. A close inspection of my idler arms did not revel any problems. I printed out a new one with PETG and tried it in the worst toolhead. It was an instant success. I then used that toolhead to print a full set of five using ABS and replaced it in all the toolheads. I also printed the nut for this as well. I did not reprint the swivel parts, but I will later. I did notice that Prusa now recommends that these parts are to be printed with PC-CF. I am currently traveling, but when I return home I will order a spool of PC-CF and reprint all of those parts with that. This fixed the problem I was having with all of the toolheads. I believe that the cause of the problem was when I tried to use ABS. The higher heat needed for ABS appears to have been high enough to cause minor deformation in the idler arms. Not enough to be seen or felt, but enough to reduce the pressure that they put on the filament against the extruder gear. Prusa now has these new parts in PC-CF available for purchase in their store. If I remember correctly, the price was $3.58 for each piece and you need two pieces per toolhead (a left and right piece). You should probably also get the other pieces for the nut and swivel as well, providing that this turns out to be the problem that you are having. As a test, you can get the files from Prusa for the Idler arms and print them in PETG and try it. Since that is what they initially shipped, it should be good enough for the test. What made me think that your problem may be similar to mine was when you said that the toolhead just stopped extruding filament. That is what mine did, You also said that it was a long print. This could have allowed the temperature in the toolhead to get high enough to cause a slight deformation of the idler. Hope this helps. It is an easy print to test with. I would recommend using your best performing toolhead for this print. Good luck.

way to mutch infil. go with like 5% geroid. ;) saves so mutch more time and ress

Just get the P1S man

Nothing but issues, I've wasted so much filament and time in this printer, sending it and getting 5 P1S's. To go along with my other bambu's and vorons.

Get some expensive service and support, that keeps these printers going but nobody is talking sbout that

Slowwwww

hey jackass why don't you respond to the comments from your damn reloading video

Several points. If you did the assembly, make triple sure that the nextruders were pressed into the carriers all the way. Very tough to pull them in with just the screw. I "gently" used a clamp to pull them together and then tightened the screw. Second, I would double check the belt tension using the Prusa tuner. Too loose or tight belts can cause random issues. After several weeks of use I readjusted the nozzle set screws and made sure they were sufficiently snug(but not too tight!). There's a bit of "feel" to get them tight enough but not damage the nozzle. Finally, every couple weeks I check belt tightness and rerun the nextruder alignment calibration. Good luck, its an awesome machine IMO.

still better Prusa than some unreliable crap from China

politely behaving Czech company

It seems like it's underextruding on that toolhead, as other comments mentioned it may be a partially clogged nozzle.

This is my dream printer. I wish Prusa had a sale or offer.

I would cold pull that tool head and look for debris. I see a possibility for a partial clog if the prime tower is printing faster than the actual part and thus creating a larger flow deficit there. And as advice for cold pulling, use a light color pla filament, insert and prime and let nozzle cool to 70-80c before extracting. If you have a defined tip on the pull, any debris will usually be there. Sometimes a microscope is need to see it if you use very small nozzles but I assume it’s 0,4mm in this case. A light color makes spotting the debris easier in most cases.

The problem is either with the extruder or with the filament. Try use extruder 2 with another filament and see if the same problems happens. If you get the same problem with different filament then it's the extruder and change the nozzle because you might have a partial clog. If the problem is fixed by changing the filament then the problem was the filament and you need to dry it out or look at the filament print settings.

I had this problem with my reality printer when I was running Galaxy black prusament. It ended up being an issue with flow rate through the nozzle. Basically it was heating the filament which was expanding and getting stuck in my Capricorn ptf tubing which was slowing how fast it was laying down plastic. It would start fine but halfway through the print when the tubing was heating up it would turn spongy. I had to tweak the speed of printing to get that particular prusament to print better. I also had to replace all my ptf tubing and the nozzle before I could get it to work right again.

id say a partial clogged nozzle that makes it under extrude , maybe do a cold pull to get rid of potentiel debrys in the nozzle

SWAP filament locations and see if its the head, But It maybe wet filament as Petra said

Reading comments is amusing but back to the topic.... Without your settings/gcode it is hard to tell, but as you said/show, that model it self is good - it may be some kink in your "not active temp - ooze prevention - custom gcode for the printer" etc.... because sequence is usually - wipetower - supports - part... either look the gcode or if you are willing to print-test it again, look is the toolhead in right temp when it starts to print wipetower-supports.... temp settings is most likely in fault here... and for those "wet filament guys" in the comments - model would be as bad as the wipetower-supports if it is wet filament.... there can't be sections of wet filament and sections of dry filament...

Prusa is trash, send the crap back and get a Bambu A1 - you will thank me later.

Have you tried changing the filament for the second toolhead? I have experienced the same issue with other printers due to one of 2 reasons, insufficient cooling for those layer(s) or the problem is the filament itself, usually being too wet. Creality makes some good filament driers that go up to 65 or 70c and can be found cheap on amazon.

Filmanent is wet! After spending 1 year with printing prusa. I bought filament driers, I always dry the filaments at least 24 hours before I use.

Gears!

What was your print times for the Nintendo logos?

where you get 3d STL?? grab CAD?

New release or vintage?

If you are assambling an XL, follow the instructions. Swap out a clogged nozzle.

Nero 3d up in Canada recently installed an LX and in ran like a champ.

Was this one of their "assembled" units? They are advertised as being assembled and tested.

What materials are you using ...ASA, PETG, etc?

Subbed. Liked. Commenting. Lol. Love the OG collection you're building! 🔥🔥🔥

cool!!!!

1. As others note, there is a shoulder that rests against the screw holding the nozzle, it should not pinch other than just to hold it snug. Actually it's a groove, so 2 shoulders. 2. Having said that, it needs to be snug enough not to move, and there is play in the groove that the screw sets in. I advise pulling the nozzle so it is as far down as possible when you tighten the screw, so that if it does come loose and slips then the nozzle goes up. if you do it the other way so it can fall down (closer to the bed) if it comes loose, then the nozzle can scratch the buildplate if it gets stuck down for some reason. Testing if you can move the nozzle/heatblock up/down by hand is a good pre-print maintenance check. 3. you have to do the complete 5 tool recalibration if you change any nozzle to avoid the problem you describe in the video, and yes it takes a long time. Seems like you should be able to calibrate just the changed nozzle but the firmware does not support that last time I checked.

Thanks for sharing. Unfortunately sometimes you get a bum machine. Prusa swapped out my MK4 and there was a night and day difference with it & they confirmed mine was not assembled properly from the factory.

Maybe I am lucky, because I have not had problems with my Prusa XL so far, but on the other hand if I would have, I will be happy that Prusa is active and wants to replace my printer for new one. So, I do not understand what`s wrong 😅

Did you only work through email with these issues?.. They have a live chat on their page and it works great.. no waiting a couple days for a reply.... I know people who had replacement parts shipped to The States a couple days later.. And offers to replace the whole printer.. (KZbin influincer) not sure why it took you so long for your issue.?

I haven't had an upper hot-end clog yet, but it's not rocket science. The whole hot-end is made from metal. If I had an upper nozzle clog (not caused by pinching the hot-end tube) I would remove the nozzle and gently heat the the entire hot-end with a small torch or paint-stripping / heat-shrinking heat gun.. goal is to get the entire hot end to 200-250c. if your clog is filament, then it shoudl push down.. USE PLA. once you get it coming out the end... keep pushing as the assembly cools.. then when it gets to just below 100c.. firmly pull the (pla or cleaning filament) out the top. Hold the end of the nozzle in a small vice. you will be cold pulling the entire nozzle assy.. it shoud end up completly clean. upper hot-end colgs are caused by the cooling fan not running, while the hot-end is hot.. thus the cold part of the nozzle is hot enough to melt the filament against the wall and there's your jam. you need to re-heat the upper part of the nozzle to get it moving.. then cold-pull the whole mess out of there.l

For big prints that have no structural use I’d recommend using lightning infill with one or 2 extra outer perimeter. Saves a lot of filament

Yo, this is sick af! I'm an OG GoW fan and love this! May have to do something smaller on my Bambu. The worn look on yours is so good! Did you paint the STL/OBJ in software, or did it come pre-colored for the slicer?

As a cheap printer the prusa was a great diy machine. Trouble is they are no longer cheap, but their quality hasnt improved.

I have had a lot of problems with filament jams in the middle of the cold area part of the nozzle. The fastest way I found to fix, is to remove the nozzle and if needed heat it with an electric heat gun until I can remove the filament. I have a special tool that is a metal rod with a handle that I can check to see if it is clear. I also have a very long 2mm drill bit that can reach all the way to the end of the nozzle and use it to remove plastic. I suggest that you keep spare nozzles. They can be swapped out quickly

For the smaller N64 cube, was the green the only color with the issue? It looked like the kind of surface you get when the tool is not properly secured to the carrier. If you have not greased the 3 hexagonal pins on each tool front face, do that. If that doesn't fix it, you may want to recalibrate the dock position of any tool that does that. And finally, if it's on ALL the colors/tools, then it may be a belt tension issue. Prusa KB has the audio tuning app thing, but also a test print that does extra non print moves to show whether or not the belt tension still needs adjustment.

Are you complaining about the company actually reaching out and proactively trying to replace your faulty printer? Seriously? 🤯That's what GREAT customer service should do if you ask me. 👏Compare this to Bambu and their appalling Trustpilot reviews. I am happy as a clam with my Prusa, but let's face it: printers are complex machines. Sh*t can go wrong. It's annoying that you ended up with a faulty one, because the chances are supper slim with this brand. But they faced the music and offered a perfectly fair solution. I am not sure the other brands would treat you better, quite on the contrary...

At least here they'll take it back. It's not so obvious with other manufacturers...

*Rule #1. NEVER BUY VERSION 1.0 of any product!!!! Wait until Version 2.1 comes out!!!*

Can one of the heads work with the MMU?

I love my Prusa machines. They have been awesome. I have 2 Mini+ with enclosure and MK4 with MMU and enclosure. I also have their resin SL1S 💯

I have my 5 tool since march and I have no issues whatsoever. It's printing day and night, everyday. I think the cast majority of XLs work just fine. The only issue I have is changing spool when running out. That does not work well yet.

For that price tag, that many issues are unacceptable

Heat nozzle then stick a long acupuncture needle up in the nozzle and give it a lobotomy. This is usually enough to clear anything short of something solid that's bigger than the opening. However, if that doesn't work you can heat up a small allen key almost red hot then press it down in to the top of the heat break in to the stuck plastic, let it cool, then pull the whole mass out. Sometimes it needs a little external heat on the nozzle so it breaks loose when you pull it. Don't do this on a hot-end that isn't all metal because the hot allen key will burn the PTFE tube. Bambu has instructions for this in their clearing nozzle guide.

Another Jet Engine, noise