for me it's clear how speed of wheels are synced but how are synced teeth? that's mystery for me...

Finding this video really useful, thankyou. One area I can't work out from your video is the paired bolt on the underside, one has a spring and plunger. The other just had a pair of ball bearings fall out when the shaft was pulled. Are these supposed to tandum up or go either side of the shaft? also no spring under this bolt, just an extended shaft like reverse peg bolt detent. Do you have a video of the assembly of these two ball bearings?

Your video was a great help in getting my 4 speed apart. My 3rd/4th slider synchro ring is bad. Would you, by chance, have one for sale?

Thank you I have the same problem from 2nd to 3rd grinding

Jemal, how about some more Midget videos? I and many others enjoy your lateral thinking approach to problem solving, so get your camera out and get filming. Please 🙏

A molewrench is an adjusable pair of pliars used as a clamp with a locking arm..you do have them in the states but I dont know the name you use

brother do sell sea sickness tablets?

Excellent thanks

Thanks! I’m having a nightmare with these on the rear of my Morris marina engine- I’ll try this. Cheers 🍻

Only on tuesdays

2024. 120,000 mile Xterra. Just used your fix. Thanks very much, saved our vacation!!

Amazing, so informative

such an amazing video. I understand now thank you

Just seen it was a 295!

I remember the 12g 595 I think it was

Should I hook the paper clip onto the mechanism and pull towards the rear of the vehicle? Or try to push the mechanism forward with the paper clip toward the front of the vehicle? Thanks.

Thank you for your info, but my transmission is making that grinding noise on every gear even after putting it in gear and i do not have difficult to put it in gear, is it possible that my sliders are loose or something?

Thanks, needed this to replace some speakers

Best video I've seen on syncro wear and gear grind. Thanks!

2008 pathfinder I bought last week did this and I fixed it in 2 min with this video

I have a 998 bored to 68mm to accommodate Calver ST pistons, giving 1220cc, with a Calver 295 head....it drives like a dream , with lots of low end torque and 80bhp

Uncle had better video quality 10 years ago than most instruction videos today. Also uncle is still doing youtube and he doesnt look a day older mashallah, may Allah give him more and everybody leave a sub!

Honda odyssey had this issue , dealer recall or update was to goop the lock cable ends up with 3m grease. To stop water from getting into the cable

It’s hard to find 3rd gear on my mini. Would this part fix it?

Fast and simple, thanks!

Worked for my 1999 Nissan Pathfinder! Last night I was looking at some other KZbin videos and I happened to open this video you posted 9 years ago. I ended up watching all your related videos that explained the solution you used on your Xterra. My driver's side rear door has been locked shut for the last 4 years. It had that exact same floppy exterior door handle that you described in your video. I always figured I'd end up taking it into a body shop for an expensive repair and I never bothered to do it. We just quit using that door as if it didn't exist. My Pathfinder is now 25 years old and it works perfectly except for that darned door! This morning, I immediately attempted your repair trick. I could not see the little part that you described so I just sprayed the crap out of everything I could hit through the little hole in the door handle. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and also Silicone spray. I poked around with a coat hanger rather blindly and nothing happened. Crap! Disappointed, I went back into the house for breakfast and coffee. I came out an hour later because I just wanted to try again. I sprayed it again and poked around with the stiff wire and still nothing. Then I remembered some of the folks used a rubber mallet and hit the door frame to jar it loose. I didn't have one of those so I just started to give it a hard hit with the palm of my hand all around the door frame and door handle. After each hit I would feel the door handle to see if there was any change. After about 10 hits, I felt the door handle and it felt tighter. I held my breath and pulled it and couldn't believe my eyes when the door opened after being locked for 4 years. Now that it was open, I pulled off the interior door panel and I wanted to do your spring repair. Well, it was a surprise for me since the 1999 Pathfinder is totally different from the Xterra in your video. The Pathfinder does not have cables since it has the old school metal rods. I could not find any way possible to get at that little mechanism where you put your spring. At least now I had access to the rods and had my hand jammed all the way up into the door as far as it would go. I hosed everything down with another 1/2 can of silicone spray and moved every rod back and forth while locking/unlocking the door and pulling on the door handle while I sprayed silicone. I never did see anything that I was spraying at since I was just going by feel with my hand inside the door. Finally, I figured that was as good as it was going to get and I would just accept my fate as to whether it will work or not. I then put the door all back together with the inside panel and screws. I stood outside the door with by fingers crossed and locked and unlocked the door several times. It worked properly every time! I have no idea if it is permanently fixed because could never see the root cause of the problem. All I know is that it works today for the first time in 4 years. I had pretty much given up on ever using that door again. Thank you for the inspiration to tackle this repair on my own!

If it is a loose fit in the bore and it's not flush with the rocker pedestal then there is nothing stopping the oil going around the outside.

Can I drive it and just skip gear2? My mechanic has ordered a new gearbox but won’t arrive for about a week

Had a Webber on my mini back in the olden days with the speedometer repositioned further into the car with an Aluminium saucepan as a 4 inch spacer with the bottom cut out and painted matt black which worked well and got a nice light show when the carb spit back and illuminated the speedo.

Nice Video Jemal!! I Bought the Front and Rear Kit From Clint Last Year. I'm Finally Going to Install Them on My 1975 Porsche 911 Targa/Cabriolet. I Noticed You Mentioned You Bought New Rear Carrera Rotors. I Remember Clint Said the Old Rotors Did Not Have to Be Changed Out. I Thinking the Difference Is Gaining a 1/2 Inch Diameter In Stopping Power vs. Loosing About a 1/10 of an Inch In Hand Brake Area. How was the Improvement Over the Upgrade? Thanks, Scotty

Hope to find a similar video about Nissan Pathfinder 2001. Isn't that easy to remove de panel with de closed door.

Thank you for this! I would love to know WHY my trans sometimes doesn't ingage into 2nd, and falls into false neutral, ESPECIALLY with how you just explained syncros. Thank you for what you do!

Just fixed mine following this video. Thanks so much

My father in law and i have exactly the same car..... VW Golf MK4 1.9 TDi...... He has a ring gear that is worn out so the starter dont engage.... I saw the square teeth is now pointy..... I have been pondering about why his did this and mine not.... Thought maybe coz the old people crank too long when starting causing wear on the teeth..... But now u have given me another angle to investigate whether he has the correct starter installed.... Since i think i remember him saying he replaced the starter.... 😊

Jamal, I totally agree that the original design of the rear main seal is superior to the upgraded version if installed properly. From a machinist's (not automotive) standpoint is all about precision and accuracy, plus as you pointed out, breathing. The desire and passion we have does not always overcome the lack of knowledge of specific tasks and results in the dumb decisions we sometimes make. I include myself in that. Great instructive videos from someone who actually knows what he's talking about.

Jemal, what about if you fit and torque up the main caps first, then fit that half-moon cap last, pushing hard down on the lower half of the rear main cap, you could not fit it too proud even if you tried, and therefore it would be a perfect seal with the rear main cap?

Happened to my 2005 xterra drivers side front door lol let’s hope this works

This information is indispensable. I’m currently building a sloppy street 1275 with lightened rods and custom machines steel strap for the Center main cap. Do you disagree with ARP’s torque specs for main caps at 80 ft/lbs? I torqued mine to 70 ft/lbs and the crank felt tighter on the main bearings. Could just be my imagination.

Jemal describes the difficulty of long term manufacturing holding repetition tolerance, then describes the engineering target of design and a solution to make the reality of manufacturing meet the design requirement. While I have a mini, I also have every other mechanical contrivance and they all need this approach. I'd be horrified to think of my local garage doing this conversion especially as no shim pack is supplied with the brg kit.

Why does my son scion tc grind at 3rd gear while the engine just warming up. But as soon as its on driving temperature it goes away? Thanks in advance

Jemal I hope to get some help here. Your videos are so informative. I have my left driver's back door stuck shut. I've opened the door panel and the ball rod isn't attached to the latch at the handle anymore. I can not get to the area to unscrew the lock actuator because it's closed. I tried releasing the patch from behind the exterior handle like you've shown but it isn't working for me. Anything you could suggest here ? Thank you !!

As a matter of fact I'm in the process of getting a motor built that has to travel 2000 miles across the country when ready. I would be interested in learning the specs on the crate. Looks impressive.

You should have mentioned that you turn the lug in the direction of forward wheel travel. Always. Which means driver and passenger wheels are actually opposite. Drivers side would turn clockwise, as in your video (I'm assuming left hand drive for US) and passenger would be anti-clockwise. This catches many people out. And mainly because the drum still tightens even going the wrong way. But as soon as you place foot on pedal the shoes will go loose inside if adjusted wrong way, and you be back to crappy brakes again.

Understandable explaination thanks

Very very helpful video, these trans are rare birds for me. Where do you get your parts? I am in need of springs, balls and the dowels or bullets. I tried moss but they only had the balls. Thanks

I got the panel off with the door closed…… it was tough!

Mine finally did this for the first time today. Thanks for the videos, I'll try these things out. So do you recommend removing that spongy material around the cable? Has anyone found a permanent fix for this new development?

good video thanks,

In most cases the outside handle gets dirt build up that causes the handle return spring to bind. That binding will put the mechanism in the halfway point where neither handle will work. If you gently use the inside handle to snap back (opening the handle all the way and letting it loose) it will work the outside handle spring. Once the spring works back you will be able to open the door from the outside if the handle isn't broken. The tell tale sign that the outside handle is going to lock up is the handle starts to flop around. When the return spring is fully loose the handles will shut tight. Remedy...... When the handle start to get loose this is an indication that the return spring is binding.....You should spray WD40 on the mechanism through the little holes on the door where you access the nuts that hold the handle on the door. As you spray WD40 snap the outside handle and you will see it tighten up.

Does this work if the inside handle doesn't work as well? Gonna try to find a nice heavy duty paperclip like that to give this a try today.