In principle, yes, but you may have to heat the glowplug in idle for maximum reliability. For the 120 twin (I think its the Gemini?) its because of the position of the crankcase vent. Oil may pool up in the crankcase instead of being pushed out through the camshaft case. 1

Brand new engine with not yet broken in Dykes ring, just didn't have the compression with hand starting. Started easier after some run time.

As you see, I changed them already. Made a huge difference. I really have to build my new test stand and make new videos. Have around 30 engines or so in the queue .. since 2021 :D Also got a new camera, which could even do 4K if I so desire.

@@VintageTechFan Ich antworte mal auf Deutsch, ich glaube das ist auch deine Muttersprache ;-) Ja das Thema vergammelte Kugellager bei den Glühzündern ist mir sehr vertraut. Nur wenige meiner Motoren haben von mir noch keine neuen Lager bekommen. Durch das Methanol und das Nitro sind die Verbrennungsrückstände im Kurbelgehäuse ziemlich aggressiv gegenüber Stahlteilen. Und da ich grundsätzlich alte Schätzchen suche und kaufe gibt es immer bisschen was zu tun. Aber genau das ist ja auch der Spaß an der Sache.

It's a PSP stand, unfortunately they stopped making them quite suddenly. I got it (slightly) used from eBay.

9x5" .. so pretty much standard for .25 engines.

Tried that a few times. It works great with the big ones on the crankshaft, but the small camshaft bearings have so little heat capacity that they are back to room temperature basically immidiately after taking them out.

It's the "PSP test stand" which is now sadly out of production.

@@VintageTechFan Pity

I used Helicoil thread repair inserts, which are the least increase possible in diameter and they fit well. Come with a special drill and tap, worked fine and they are stronger than the original threads (because they are a basically steel spring which also distributes the load better to the now bigger thread). Not exactly cheap though.

Mine does, too. Webra started in Berlin, opened a second manufacturing facility in Austria later. In 1977-1984 they also moved the German manufacturing plant. Those engines were all made in Berlin as far as I know.

I'm aware and already stopped using it, at least for anything over 4cc or so. For now I'm using a heavy bench and will build a proper stand I can anchor to the ground soon. But you are right that people may take it as a bad inspiration, so I have gone through the videos and added a warning to prevent this.

If it's the one I found online with 18% synthetic oil, you should add some castor oil to get it to 22-23% total oil content for those old iron piston engines, yes. Modern ones are fine with it as it is.

Depends what you want to do with it. Just run it? A teststand. The one I have is quite sophisticated and was made by PSP in the US. Unfortunately, the stopped making them and the accessories a while ago. I have it because it's easy to strap various engines onto it. If you have a single engine, you can just take a sturdy board of plywood (would NOT go under at least 10mm, more is better), make a notch in it, drill the hole pattern for the engine and mount it SECURELY to a bench. My chair here is not an ideal solution AT ALL. A fuel tank. Just use a readily available RC airplane tank, it's centerline should be at the height of the carburetor jet. A glowplug source. I use the classic lead-acid battery with a resistor and cable, but a power panel is fine, too. And, for safety and convinience, an electric starter. A well run in engine can usually be started by hand quite easily, but some risk remains. And of course various wrenches and screwdrivers.

Well .. I HAD one ;) Now I have a very slightly used one in my display case.

Can't really tell anymore, the market has really shrunken down due to the dominance of electric drives and the rising difficulties to get fuel for glow engines (also caused by that). OS from the 1970s/1980s are famous for just working, but even used they are not cheap. If you get one for a decent price though, it's going to give you very little trouble. The last generation of the chinese (Sanye) ones, like this one, seem to be quite okay, too, but they stopped making them soon after. Don't have that much experience, though. Have flown only a few of my collection yet.

It's an engine from the 1970s .. I got it from ebay, I think.

Most likely just gummed up castor oil, very typical. Soak it in WD-40 or something like that, heat it up with a heat gun and CAREFULLY try to turn it (do not force it, that can bend the conrod). It should become free. Then disassemble, and clean.

It's an "PSP test stand" I imported from the US a few years ago. Unfortunately during Covid they decided not to make these anymore. Even the website seems to be gone. You may get one used, though.

This one is a really nice runner, also very fine transitions and idle. Starts readily by hand. But one downside, the threads for the backplate were really weak. I took it off to inspect the innards, and when I tried to reattach it the screws ripped out the threads before they even started to feel tight. Looked almost like an M2.5 screw in an M2.6 hole. Had to put some helicoils in there. And yes, it's a shame that Sanye closed down. But I'm at fault, too ... I never bought them while they were in production. It's also not nice that it gets harder and harder to acquire fuel. Now they outlawed the high nitro stuff, too.

@@VintageTechFan Possibly, I fortunately haven't had any problems with the threads yet. I just started modeling 6 years ago, and playing with engines about 4 years ago, but I buy an S25 when it was in production (this is my second nitro engine), and soon after they stopped making them :(. Yes, it hurts a lot to limit nitro to 16% especially since small engines like Cox like nitro and I personally used 20% for them, and I don't have much of it left :(. But somehow we have to manage, maybe it won't be so bad :)

Thanks. In retrospect, it got "a little" long ;). But my footage didn't really allow to edit it down much, at least if I want to show the tuning process. Which was lenghty because of the knurled nut on the Dynamix to set the idle mixture, which is impossible to adjust safely while running (the muffler is in the way). So I had to stop the engine and restart it again and again. There will be more (hopefully better) videos in the future, I still have "some" engines in my display cabinet and more are coming.

​@@VintageTechFan I know that :P I often make a little too long video :P. Good luck with next engines!

@@VintageTechFan every time you stopped and had problems restarting the engine, i was shouting: "fix some foot-long rods on to the carburettor."

@@raymondo162 Unfortunately not really possible on the Dynamix, and also not advisable. While it is a good carburetor and gives very nice transitions, it is quite sensitive to wear. A long oszillating rod will wear out the slides pretty fast.

Hallo, ich hab den FT101ZD (inkl. aller Unterlagen) schon lange an den Nachwuchs weitergegeben. Der FT101Z/ZD ist aber auch ein Sparmodell des damals neuen FT901 gewesen und hat mit den "alten" FT101/FT277 fast nichts gemein, daher kann ich jetzt nichts groß dazu sagen. Ich empfehle bei der "foxtango.org" Gruppe nachzusehen/nachzufragen. Die haben auch Troubleshooting-Guides etc.