I have this problem on a 307 sbc. I have lost so much oil because everytime i instal a different filter it all spills out. Im going to see if a find that superflow or similar. Thanks!

One problem I had with an ACDelco is the gasket slipped off and I didn't know it I lost 2 and 1/2 quarts before I figured out what happened. It's a tight hole that you have to run the filter down in front of the engine. Accidentally the gasket flipped off and I didn't realize it.

Thank you so much... this is happened to my 68 Corvette L79 327 thanks so much

I came by to say my faceplated tko does the same. It rattles in neutral unless the clutch is depressed and in 5th it rattles like crazy. Does it worse when the engine isnt running 100% do to the tune being off a bit. Im pretty sure the reason it does it is the need for removing the 3/4 hub slider keys/springs (the square pieces and wire that holds them in). The faceplate allows them to fall out, so you have to remove them. I found upon assembly it was very very loose after removal of the keys.

I have a new TKO600 from Modern Driveline the Tremec Specialists. I had them add carbon fiber synchronizers in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. The first thing I noticed was the rattle while idling. I, like many others thought my (brand new) throw out bearing or pilot bearing was bad, but after researching this, it turns out it may be the cluster shaft rattling away when in neutral. They told me it might be the springs in the clutch. The second issue that I have is the same as yours, it sounds almost like a buzzing rattle emanating up through my shifter. It's annoyingly loud and does this in all gears. It comes in around 2,000 RPM and used to quit by 3,000. Now it just doesn't stop under throttle. I contacted Modern Driveline several times and even sent video, but they tell me it's got to be my exhaust touching something or a loose bolt somewhere. I guess I'm too stupid to realize that the sound coming straight up through my shifter is a loose nut on my alternator. I absolutely hate this transmission and wonder when it's going to give up the ghost. I feel like I wasted $3,250 on this one but I sure won't buy another.

Thanks for the info. I have a 05' colorado z71 4wd w/ 3.5l. Never had any issues with oil leaks until I let a Napa shop change my oil. Looks like they used a cheap filter! Hopefully its due to a witness-mark in the seal o-ring. Thx for your vid!

What is the idle RPM and what vacuumn does it pull at idle?

thanks for the info I will try this, I rebuild a 327 for 69 impala when to crank the engine and all 4-5 qts spilled out.

Mine does it in all gears but only between 2500-3500rpm. Did you get to the bottom of it? Mine has done it from new. I have a t6 in a 70 challenger

Mine does the same thing! I only have 1500 miles on it! It only does this in 5th gear! If you figure it out... please post something about it!

Cant wait to get that on my bird, it sounds really good.

Very nice Camaro! I posted on the PP site hoping to get in touch with you. I've got a '68 Corvette with nearly identical set-up. Dart 400 at 10:1, AFR 195 Streets, RPM Air Gap, TKO-600 and 3.45 gear. I'm currently using a mech adv distributor (soon to change to vacuum). My cam hyd roller Comp 280 XFI (230/236; 576/570 on 113 LSA) and my exhaust has 1 7/8 pri to 4"collectors with 2.5" baffles. Fuel sys is in-tank 220 lph with 3/8" delivery and return to the PJIII regulator. I've copied your Flickr pics...thanks! Any advice before I get going on this? Motor is a new build and I'm at near sea level... btw, I'm surprised at your 30 degree total timing...? Hope you see this and thanks again!

Think you need to put the stock exhaust back on.

Part 3. If you have a big cam with low LSA there can be enough exhaust dilution that the 02 reads falsely and the fuel runs the wrong way. If it does that you can go fixed pulsewidth idle so it doesn't keep adjusting (mine does fine with auto adjust). The base cals are too rich on the low end and usually idle target can't lean out enough. Look at the pic of my fuel wizard and you can see how low my fueling is at 1000 RPM to fix that, and my idle cell learned value is still -20.

Part 2. Remember any time you adjust the two plate screws you must do each equally so they stay synched, and then turn the unit off and back on (not started) so you can do a TPS recalibration.

Thanks. There's a good forum on the Professional Products webpage where it's easier to get help than if I tried to do it here. How I set idle is put my hot idle target 50 RPM below where I actually want it, then adjust the two plate screws. Then the IAC will close all the way and sit there to try to pull it down that last 50 RPM instead of fluttering. So I set my target to 800 RPM and watch the screen while adjust the screws down to 850 and verify the IAC is 10 (closed).

Nice rides! I'm having a lot of difficulty getting my pj3 to idle, my setup is similar to yours except hyd. flat tappet, I'm wondering if i upload your cal files if it would get me on the right track. Major issue is setting idle and idle A/F ratio. Any thoughts are appreciated Thanks

Thats my cuzin

About 8000 miles now and running great, never a hiccup. I have the oil analyzed every 2000 miles and it's been coming back perfect.

Thanks for the response. I'm having CME bUild an engine for me. How is your ruining since they built yours?

I'm running a Retrotek Powerjection III system but the dyno was done with a Quick Fuel SS 780 with #83 jets.

What size and type of carburetor are you using?

I believe the sign back there read 35mph....lol

Nice camaros! I take with a friend a powerjector 3 to install on my car but he lost the data cable (serial + usb adapter) and i don't know where to found it. Do you know the wire diagram? Thanks.

How do you like your CM engines, engine. I got screwed with mine. I ordered a 572, and well not good!!!

You bet. Glad it helped some. Good idea on the CT enable. I basically did the same thing by just setting the values to 100% for 140 and above on after start and 110 and above on C-Temp enrichment. That also helped with driving off cold since C-Temp affects the entire fuel map not just idle. I was getting rich misfires when trying to drive cold if leaving it where it would warm up at a rich idle AFR.

Just a note of thanks. Was having cold start issues on my 375 HP 302 Ford. After looking at your files, realized I was way to lean and too narrow a pulse width. Using your files as a baseline created much, much better results and now I am fine-tuning from this new baseline. One area I improved was to change the cold engine fuel enrichment "enabled if CT less than" value to 150 instead of 240 - prevents it from running too rich on a warm re-start (I have no enrichment for temps under 150)

Hell no. His and his. Wait....that sounds a little gay. What I mean is that the wife can't drive stick. By the way, all the stuff that was on and in the car on the left is now on the car on the right. It had a better body. Ha ha.

the walk out to the garage and opening the garage door was kind of unnecessary for this video. car sounds good tho, would definitely like to see the car driving

@gmcbigrig79 The engine was set up with the shop's Quick Fuel 780-SS with #83 jets at all four corners and a 1/4" insulator. I'm running a Retrotek Powerjection III system on it though.

what carb are ya runnin? I have almost the exact setup! An answer would help out a lot!!!! thanks bud

@omar10500 400 SBC with small hydraulic roller 224/224 @0.050, 0.536" lift 10:1 compression, AFR-195's, and only 30 degrees total timing 410 RWHP 435 RWTQ

@5024X4 Sent a message via your account. Should have it in your inbox.

I have the powerjection III on my bigblock ZZ502. I'm having the cold start issues along with excessive cranking while it's warm too. I see you worked yours out. Very nice by the wasy too! If you have any input for me on how to fix this I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Bob.

@ratt617 Yes, I'm still liking it but haven't driven the car in a while.....swapping everything over to a better bodied car. Take a look at the high tech section on the v8buick dot com forums and there is about a hundred page thread on the PJ-III that'll kill a day. Also professional products who bought retrotek has a forum now which was set up by the guys at retrotek, mainly as a result of the v8buick thread. There are issues but if you're willing to work with it you can get it going good.

Still liking the Powerjection III? I just got one for my 65 Falcon 302. All my buddies are telling me how stupid I am for buying one. I hope to prove them wrong. Is it stable and consistant? Thanks.

what do you think of the PJIII after having it for a while. Would you still recommend it? I've just about decided to give it a try on my 65 Falcon with 400hp 302. I've always had carbs on my old cars and I hate the efi look. The PJIII looks like a carb and has good reviews. What do you think?

start up the other one

Not gonna lie, that got a rise out of me. If you know what i mean.

horse power??? NICE CAMARO.

Thats a pretty area you live in. Car sounds great.

Yeah dude your boostin! --Cody

@CarCrazyMike82 Thanks! Click on the drop down tab above the vid for more videos and there's an old one from when I first got it running. The fuel pump wasn't isolated like it is now so it sounds horrible though. Kinda like the most annoying sound in the world in "Dumb and Dumber".

@sav300 Sorry, but I don't have anything to compare just the exhaust to. I did the engine/trans/rear/exhaust all at one time. The 2-1/2" kit would be plenty for a 355. People typically quote 500hp as the crossover point for going to a 3" system although even then it's not completely necessary in a street car. I just had money burning a hole in my pocket. Love the system though.

Sounds great! How do you like the set up? Any noticeable improvements like throttle response, idle quality, torque, and how about milage? It wouldn't be my main concern but if it improves a little it would sure be nice. I am currently debating on running this system on my 355.

Oooooo you have the infamous throttle body whistle! The car sounds good. You should give me a call so we can take care of that annoying fuel pump whine.... It should NOT sound like that! RetroTek Speed 323-599-5032 ex. 1404 Cody

@327pd Thanks! Lots of sporadic t-storms every dang weekend this time of year so I haven't put a lot of miles on it yet. Gotten into it a few times but no drag starts. 3.73 would probably be a better gear to be able to be in 5th at 45-50mph and still have good highway cruising. We have a lot of 45+ mph multilane streets around here. The 3.42 still works well since it has so much torque and 4th is a good city gear with the 3.42. The TKO has a steep first gear so it takes off great.

Engine sounds great !! After driving it some do you still think it needs a 3.73 rear gear? During the vid. it sounded like you didn't have to step into it very much to get it moving which makes me wonder have you finished the break-in yet and done any hard launches?

@jataga1212 Your neighbors say the same thing except substitute "straight" for "quiet". Ha! j/k You have kids, I have this. Same thing.

@327pd I'll send a message to your youtube inbox.