I've often fancied one in a kit car

good idea, but i'm not sure you could easily get a rag down into the camchain tunnel to catch one of the sprocket bolts without making it difficult to remove the sprocket from the chain. Far better in my opinion to work slowly & carefully & wash you hands when they get oily to help you grip the parts.

@@ducatiparts110mb cheers

I needed to change a couple shims at 36000 miles. Don't know after that as I sold the bike the following year.

No, there is a range of acceptable values for both inlet & exhaust. Anything within that range is ok. The upper and lower values are stated in the video.

​@@ducatiparts110mbEntendi, esses valores 0.20 e 0.30 são valores de referências dos espaços das folgas, digamos, pontos médios. Tenho uma GS1200 2012 com 57 mil kms e penso que já esteja no momento de verificação dessas aberturas de válvulas. Embora o comando esteja girando redondo e amanteigado.

Yes and no. You can set it with a screw. With the 2010 bmw model you need shims

Both caliper and micrometer measure the distance between two areas, not two points, so neither would get into a depression on the 'flat' side of the shim. I agree that the micrometer can measure to a finer resolution, but shims are only available in increments of circa 100x the measuring resolution, so the additional accuracy of the micrometer isn't necessary. Most of all though I've never been aware of a the flat side of a shim wearing to a concave shape.

@@ducatiparts110mb Thanks. I always get a difference when measuring with two different instruments. Find the micrometer to be most accurate. Weirdly I have 4 new shims and only 3 measure the same as the printed size, have you come across this? Makes me concerned that they're not going to make the desired adjustments.

@@R0ger007 Very occasionally I find shims that measure up differently to the printed size. When buying over the counter I always take my caliper and my old shims with me so I can confirm that the new shims are the right amount over / under the originals before leaving the shop. The fitted clearance matters more than the number printed on the packaging.

Techically you're right, but don't overthink it... So long as the cam lobe is well away from the follower, the position of the cam does not matter as the base circle is a constant radius.

@@ducatiparts110mb Thank you.

No, if a 0.04mm gauge fits, all that tells you is that the clearance is bigger than is bigger than 0.04mm (as it should be). You need to check at the upper and lower limits, and if the thin one fits and the thick one doesnt then everything is fine, otherwise go thicker or thinner with the gauges to feel the actual clearance then work out the shim you need to bring everything back into spec. If you buy the book, everything is described in detail, www.marksmotorcycleparts.co.uk/service-manuals

Only available on paper

I'm no longer associated with the Shock Factory and cannot advise. PLease check their website for current dealers

Please can you be more specific? I'm happy to help but don't understand the question.

Thanks for asking but no I don't. BMW have stopped releasing service information making it impossible for independant people like me to work on the later bikes or write a book.

Check every 16000 miles. You don't get any signs other than what the feeler gauge says - the engine will get slightly louder / rattly / rougher running, but by the time its noticeable you'll have left it far too long.

@@ducatiparts110mb thx...mine has 20.000km and when engine is hot sounds a bit ratly maybe because of oil viscosity I used 10w40 instead of 10w30 what book said

Put it in 6th gear - it wil turn over more easily..... or buy the book for this and many more hints & tips.🤭

@@ducatiparts110mb I was able to get it done in 3rd gear right after I posted that comment. Thanks.

ebay or else google for spark plug coil pulling tool. Get a metal one, the plastic ones are cheaper but bend and don't grip the plug after a few uses.

Yes, You can use your micrometer in exactly the same way I'm using a caliper.

That is very poor advice. Normally the wear of the valve vs valve seat makes the valve lash decrease. You cannot hear this. Eventually the valve doesn't make (enough) contact with the seat to dissipate it's heat and the valve will burn or break, ruining the cylinder head (burn) and maybe the cylinder and piston (break). Please don't skimp on preventive maintenance untill you hear things breaking down.

@@stalincat2457 Yes, but in general on a normal used AT that makes 50t without valve adjustment, wont need a check at 20tkm which reduces the bill from 1200AUD to 300AUD! I am talking about the first 20tkm service. There are two ways uniquely the AT drives its valves, one is the old fashioned way by pushing down a lever on them. If that needs adjustment it will be surely noticeable.

I am aware that with Honda engines there's rarely any adjustment necessary. However, telling people that they should just skip it till 50t or until they hear their engine rattle is weird advice. What if I told you it is cheaper to never check valve clearance on a Honda VFR Vtec motorcycle but just ride it till the engine blows and then install a used engine? I may be right but that's just weird advice ;)

@@stalincat2457 I believe people are not so stupid to understand, when I say ‘ask your Honda dealer for a small 20tkm service instead of a full blown one, they will understand. Its about the low km one will regular use on the bike. If the dealer accepts and it doesn’t mess with the warranty... thats what we did. Who wants full cover and security can go for it, as you can change your oil all 5000km, but there are options. Thats all what I am saying, there are options where you don’t have to throw out 💸 for no reason. manage your money

I cannot condone skipping service work or extending the intervals. If the manufacturer says you check it… then you check it. Cost of ownership is an eternal issue, but it is rather arrogant for any of us to suggest that we know better than the manufacturer, and for every few owners who got away with saving some money there will be one who wishes he paid more attention to the service schedule.

Yes, that is correct.

@@ducatiparts110mb one more question, do you have to drain the oil before removing the head covers?

@@texasaviator No, you'll only lose a dribble of oil from each head when you remove the covers - not enough to notice a level change at the oil sight glass. However, the service schedule does require an oil change at a valve change interval. Theres a whole lot more detail in the book ... www.marksmotorcycleparts.co.uk/product-page/r-nine-t-heritage-range-service-manual

Thanks John, for your positive comments and your order. Your two books will go out tomorrow morning. All the best, Mark

Yes it is. As with everything there is an allowable tolerance, but too loose and it will slacken off in service, too tight and you'll strip a thread.

Yes the book covers replacing the tensioner and setting cam timing

Full description available here... www.marksmotorcycleparts.co.uk/product-page/honda-crf1000-africa-twin-service-manual

The book covers all BMW service tasks, so no not changing the clutch, but I'm happy to answer questions and send supplementary info to customers. If you buy the book I'll send you a list of instructions for replacing the clutch plates. Mark

For the task described in the video, it makes no difference how you identify the cylinders

Thanks. The clearances will decrease over time as the valve seat wears, allowing the valve to recede into the head. It happens very slowly, normally you won't need to adjust anything at 6000 miles but its important to check.

Thanks for the positive feedback. To set the clearances you don't need to remove the sprockets from the cams. Replacing the buckets is at 17:30 - Full details on how to select the replacement sizes you need are included in the book. www.marksmotorcycleparts.co.uk/product-page/copy-of-service-manual-for-bmw-k1600gt

Many thanks, just logged on and seen your order. We have a bit of a backlog but everything ordered over the holidays will go out today or tomorrow. Cheers, Mark

No it doesn't, but if you buy the book I'll send you a separate instruction for that.

@@ducatiparts110mb I already did (John Ray)

@@IneedRockTherapy Thank you. I can see your order now. The book will go out today and I will be in touch by email today / tomorrow re the O2 sensors.

No, I only sell it as a paper book

I'm running a service school from my workshop on Anglesey UK, if you want to come along and work through it together. email me at [email protected] for more details.

@@ducatiparts110mb awh nice offer mark angelsy so tranquil

Interesting question. Not sure of the answer. You'd definitely need a bigger than standard radiator - even at stock power levels the cooling is marginal. If the engine could take it, I'd be concerned about the gearbox - a car won't accelerate as quickly as a bike so the gearbox will feel the full force of the increased torque for much longer, and will might either break or wear out more quickly. Suzukis are much more of a known quantity - more people are doing very high power engines so knowledge, spares and turbo kits are much more available. A reliable 500bhp from a Hayabusa engine is doable. I know its a 4 not a 6, but it'll be reliable for much less effort. To answer your question, you might get away with it, but you'll be figuring it out as you go and when it goes wrong it will be expensive.

@@ducatiparts110mb Your right Mark, common sense is go the Suzuki Hayabusa route for reliability and accessibility of parts. I've a feeling the K1600 gearbox would give out, even if the total weight of the car and engine is 600-650kg, but the wonderful engine note of the K1600 is so hard to let go off :-)

@@ronniet906 I agree, K16 vs Hayabusa = heart vs head....

That's a great compliment. Thank you

Hi Jason, Yes the book covers your bike. Although the book was written around my 2012 bike, there are no changes to the later bikes that affect the servicing, and the book works for all Explorers except that it does not cover an oil change on the later bikes' electronically damped forks. Despite the minor bodywork differences, it attaches in much the same way and the differences will be clear if you hold the book up against your bike. Changing the coolant is covered in the book. Hope this helps, Mark. PS I would appreciate if you could buy from my website instead of Ebay - www.MarksMotorcycleParts.co.uk Thanks

The sealing surfaces need to be degreased to ensure an oil tight seal when you bolt the covers back on, so remove the rubbers and wipe them and the metal surfaces with a solvent based cleaner. If you're replacing a scratched cover then so long as the new cover is clean inside then you won't have a problem, but if the old cover has a hole in it, then you need to ensure that there is no dirt in the engine, and a partial trip down is advisable (at least remove the cylinder head & consider the cylinder as well). If mud and grit has gone down the camchain tunnel you will have problems later, so make sure everything is scrupulously clean inside the engine.

I used three pieces 170mm long, but it doesn't need to be exact, a little longer or shorter isn't a problem.

I did it to support the book I've written, and because its in Honda's service schedule. Even when you don't feel that anything is wrong, you still need to follow the service schedule.

Thanks. I always appreciate positive feedback...