I’ve had varying results with some of the different products out there. Products that say they convert seem to but I’ve still had issues within a year if the area is subjected to moisture. That rules out using it for underside of the car as far as I’m concerned. What I exclusively use now well into my 3rd full build is Dupli-Color brand Rust Barrier. Wire wheel it first to get loose rust off and two thin (thick if you’re ok with a texture) is awesome. On my first chevelle completed in 2018 it’s still great. Granted I don’t drive much in rain with that car but nothing is loose and seems solid. It’s about $45 a quart and I won’t buy a gallon unless I can transfer un used portions into smaller containers. Even 2” of air in the can is an issue for it hardening. Quarts work better for piece work.

Thanks. I laughed for a bit. I feel you on this. I’ll be dying trying to find that info on YT and when you finally find it it’s like the heavens open.

I’ve had mixed results from AMD and never tried Golden legion. On OEM fenders I think finding them with non rusted out lowers is the challenge and while a pain, just making the currently available ones work with a good body shop is worth it. The sooner you get it back on the road the sooner you’re enjoying it. Good luck!

@@buildanother68chevelle75 Agreed, thank you sir

Thanks for the comment. I’m all amateur myself. Just sharing what I’ve learned. KZbin videos are so helpful, I’m glad to be able to contribute

Semi/mostly retired general contractor. Self taught via Internet forums/KZbin and asking tons of questions. I doubt I could get hired anywhere given how slow I am.

Miller. Challenger 172 Not made anymore but working just fine. For sheet metal I’ve considered getting a smaller unit but going to .023 wire has helped

Yeah, It doesn’t seem keeping water out was the goal. Getting water to go through the car was the best they could achieve so the inside panels paid the price. I’ve been lucky with two sets of doors and not so lucky with those rear quarters. Good luck to you

@@buildanother68chevelle75 mine will hopefully be fixed Friday

I have the same problem on my 65 cutlass. It’s just the lip. The rest is very solid

I had the same concern. In the three separate rebuilds I’ve done on 68-72 A body hinges they’ve all stayed in place.

Nope, sold it mid September’22. Most recent video has some details on that.

Always fun to hear of another ‘68 getting the full work over. Good luck!

Wherever I could reach I used automotive seam sealer before painting.

Thank you very much

You bet, happy to help out. I’m in the Bay Area of Northern California

@@pauldolan1493 Giants fan?

Thanks, I’ll probably end up stealing back that idea. Been thinking of reworking the grill somehow on Red. It’s got some road chips that need some touch up. The other detail I need to address is blacking out the AC parts o they hide better

Not sure what you mean when you wrote “hose thing”. Does your pedal look like the one in the video? What year/model did the donor part come off of? I can tell you that with most drive by wire systems the wiring leaves the pedal then goes to the module. The throttle body has wiring that also goes to module. There’s a couple from the module that go to the pcm.

Holley 302-2 is their LS swap pan specifically for 68-72 A body. On the trans mount I modified the original mount. When I boxed frame and added angle iron as new support rails I had to narrow down the mount. Used stock 4L60e mount and relocated the crossmember to fit

@@pauldolan1493 hey paul you rock! Thanks for the replies this is going to be a great help…… i gotta ask, do you regret selling this beauty ever? Haha

@@brianmartinez4494 thanks man, only sold it a couple of weeks ago. It did not get the love out on the marketplace I thought it would. What I kept hearing was a general disappointment it wasn’t sporting an LS3. Seems the internet had got buyers thinking that’s the only way to go. Was actually getting ready to make that change and up the price of course when I met a couple looking for a driver. They both drove the car and bought it two days later. I love what I built and was always building it to sell so I’m ok. I think. If I ever get too regretful, I can tear back into the first Chevelle and upgrade some things there. Hoping to get some new content about that and a whole new build I just started a few days ago. Thanks again and good luck with your project

Sorry, just saw this. Again, Holley Hooker Headers. Long tube 1-3/4” down to a 3” collector. Comes with one bung on each side for O2 sensors. Don’t forget to add one at least for wide band o2 sensor. your tuner will appreciate it

Thanks and good luck with your project. It’s interesting how few of us 68 fans (69 too since it’s the same sheet metal) there are out here. What’s your favorite part about the car?

Thanks, it’s a fun journey for sure. This car and my first one are both at Hot August Nights in Reno this week. Having seen and used both rust converter and encapsulator, I’ll say this. If it’s going to be painted with a finish paint like an exterior panel you’ll just have to go to bare metal. If it’s impossible to get to,(like the inside of an A pillar) then I say knock off loose rust with home made wire brush (I’ve made several long spinner brushes by welding a copper fitting wire brush for 1”copper onto a rod) and use an encapsulator like POR15 or the rustoleum equivalent. Not the spray versions, the goopy brush it on and hope you don’t get it on your skin kind. It’s proving to really work. On my first car I’ve poked around into areas I did almost 5 years ago and it’s still solid. The car is listed on classiccars.com. Message me there. When I find that person who “gets” the level of detail and appreciates the quality of paint and interior, I thing 55-60 is legit. If it sits too long, I’ll likely drop an ls3 into it and reprice it. Just drove it a solid 3.5 hours today and even with the stock cam it pulls just fine from the Bay Area to Tahoe. Fun day.

Thank you!

Thanks. Good luck with yours. I almost did a 64. The car was cheap but missing too much in the vent windows/ door hardware. Sourcing stuff for a 64 seemed rough so I bailed. Is yours complete?

@@pauldolan1493 mine is real complete. The one thing I don't have is a split bench seat. I was going to do buckets but my wife likes the bench more.

You bet. Thanks for the comment

Thank you very much.

Thanks!!

Thanks. Awesome to hear from you. If I remember correctly, you killed it that night with a rented white Yukon or Escalade.

@@pauldolan1493 Not sure if I “Killed it”, but I did have fun racing a Suburban…. I’m planning to be there this week too.

Just saw this. I was there tonight. You?

Thanks. Nice having it done but still fun to drive around. I’ll miss it once it’s gone

Thanks. It’s bittersweet. I like having it available to drive and show off but can’t move on to the next project with it in the garage.

I’ve seen multiple classic cars get “complete” rust removal and repaint to a pretty nice finish for 25-50K It’s rare to see rust in some areas and not in others so there’s the variable of patching metal vs replacing whole panels. That’s why the big variation in price. This project would not have made financial sense had I had to pay retail for the work. Being able to do the metal work myself and much of the body work as well was always the plan.

Glad it helped!