Can hou use a colour laser printer ?

Süper

I broke my SR/SL/leds cable because it didn't come out "really easily, just sitting on the contacts" I admit that I did not have to pull too hard But anyway, that was the old part and I'll receive the new part on Saturday and try again 👌

Thank you so much. Well explained and photographed.

it looks kind of easy, and therefore i'm sure its difficult and needs lots of finemechanical skills (which i don't have) well done, looks perfect at 7:26 you bring the 2 halves together and i noticed half#1 has a dowel with the nose and a dowel with the "hole" -obviously half#2 has the same dowels at opposite position -is there a specific reason for that? could be one half with 2 "nose" dowels, the other half with 2 "hole" dowels, right? thank you

For wire stripping I recommend automatic wire strippers. Much nicer than those where it's up to you to pick the correct slot!

Super cool 😎🚂🚂

Nowt wrong with Lima loco's. I have several that I have converted to 8-pin DCC and also added additional pick-ups and they run just as well as the more recent expensive offerings. Another advantage with older models is that you can add as much detail as you want.

Fabulous video. Clear, concise and really helpful to anyone doing that job for the first few times :)

Bro who's even disliking this video? It's incredibly well made. I am impressed!

Did you disconnect the battery or is it fine staying connected whilst doing the repair?

Is the printer different for this? Is it possible with a normal printer?

Very clever, well done!

thanks for the information I'm about to get my first 3d printer and I was wondering if something like this wold be useful.

what can i do? i want to print white letters

oh my god I never knew...we got someone to clean them when he cleaned the roof

Didn't see any difference after 2nd phase...

This is so well explained and clear, thank you so much! I managed to fix both my controllerd easily!

The idea is great - maybe the babysitting could be eliminated even on longer prints if it was atached to the x axis gantry? that way it would rise up along with the extruder

😅 3:19 " sideways on i get better access for dropping in my nuts"

deez nuts

my man consider doing a pressure advance calibration on your printer. you have slight signs of it in your prints! nice vid

Cool project! FYI, most slicers can add "pause" gcode commands at specific layers. I've done it with prusa slicer and on a Creality CR10. I know the printer firmware has to support the command as well, and I don't know if the firmware on the Ender shown supports it or not, but you can change the firmware on an Ender if it comes to that. If you put the pause command in the slicer or even in the gcode file yourself, when the printer gets to that point it will pause without you having to watch it like a hawk. This makes it so much more convenient to embed magnets, nuts, or other things inside a print. Another thing you can do instead of the "pause" is to insert a color change (I believe that's M600) which is intended for you to swap the filament while the printer is paused. Of course there is no need to swap the filament and you could just embed your object and tell it to resume. I didn't hear you make mention of it, so I wanted to make you aware of it in case it helped you out in your project!

There is no point in using 100% infill ever (maybe if you really want the weight) To make the parts stronger you can do more perimeters and do 50% or less infill The weakest point will always be the layer lines adhesion. With 100% infill you're just extending the prunting time by a lot and wasting filament

Nice straightforward explanation. You came up in suggestions. Here's a well earned comment. 👍

you can also bury magnets and thin strips of steel and totally cover them. Making a case that has an inner lip, and magnets around the perimeter would make a clean, fastener-less design.

What’s your printer?

Very interesting approach! Question…Maybe I'm missing something here, but why not just lay down a plain white circle, then place the color art done on the clear backing on top of it? This way you would avoid the finicky registration work or your design.

Great vidio, love that info.Thanks for the morning coffee...

seems a bit overkill to use a RPi for a project like that :) But make use of what you have I guess

great project bro but i just have a sticker to my laptop with big letter that say. "do not disturb me if you are near and able to read this text" yellow border straps like crime scene and red font color. it works for me.

Awesome Project! I've thought about making a very similar system before but I was hoping to make something that automatically detects whether I'm on a call and whether my camera and microphone were muted or not. I never finished it because I got stuck on how protective most operating systems are of their cameras and microphones (in retrospect this should've been obvious 😂) and the lack of root access to my work Mac laptop to work around it. I love your solution of just having different buttons for multiple different statuses. I might try and build a version of it that doesn't use 3D printing because I just have a chassis and not a working printer at the moment. Also, am I right in thinking that there's technically nothing here I couldn't do with an Arduino? I have some laying around I think should be able to handle this 🤔 My version was intended to hang outside the door to my office to stop people unwittingly walking into the cameras view rather than sit on my laptop itself, I'm thinking I could do it with something like a key fob or even just an IR remote if I can get the sensor on the same side of the door, you've really inspired me to go back and make my ideas less over complicated 😄

I was JUST starting the research to make my own. I was thinking on just the lights, and I will be pairing it with a 3D printed waifu I call "Pomodoro-chan" (part of another WFH project of mine) but the screen addition is cool! Incredible timing too.

Your instructions and shots are exemplary! This is exactly what I needed. Thank you! Liked and subscribed.

I do 1/24 and 1/25 model cars and trucks. I haven't been brave enough to try printing my own decals, but I've found the Tamiya clear gloss acrylic brushes on nicely (I don't have an airbrush, nor is my home suitable for one - if I spray something, I use "rattle cans" on a large cardboard out on the porch) and most decals accept this nicely - then I can start wet sanding and buffing to bring out a mirror shine and not damage the decals. Beware of enamels or lacquers - they cure too hot for the decals and damage them. And beware "rattle can" clear - they're normally enamel. I use needle-fine tweezers to handle the decal; be careful that you don't put too much pressure on it, and handle by the edge. MicroSol helps enormously, but use it carefully - I've found that if I put a large drop on a decal (say, a dashboard gauge) and leave it until it dries, it can all but dissolve the decal! Use enough to let it set in the surface detail (if not smooth), the dry it before the decal becomes too soft and starts to melt.

Thanks for this, just changed mine successfully following your video.

When I flip my GGL MK06’s, I get about half way and get scared the entire window is going to drop out of its hinge. Am I being ridiculous, there’s no way the window can come out and drop on me is there?

very nice

If you replace the sometimes loose fitting pins in the hinges with snug fitting brass rod inserts (and bend an inch or two at right-angle to form a handle) you dont need the dowels as the hinges will lock the alignment in 3 dimensions. I personally use 3 inch brass hinges mounted vertically on the sides of the boards and it works well with no visual intrusion on the top of the board

Awsome!

Thank you so much!!!! I fixed mine but it takes time! you are too good

I like your style. The lego move was genius, I would not have. thought of it.

Super useful!

Just a note that Laser Jet printers will generally hold their color better in the long term. Ink Jets colors will fade quicker… particularly so under fluorescent lights.

Do you have web address?

When you plug in the cable from master if the decoder is other than #3 will it show the one on the decoder, say 6 etc. That is without using the keypad on master.

Been looking for a simple and easy guide to making my own decals for my miniatures, this is perfect. Simple and well explained without having to sit through a long video. Thank you!

Cutting a circle by hand. Good luck with that !😊

Thumbs up for the delightful attitude!

Decals have recently become the bane of my life. Printing black onto clear is a fairly painless exercise, as are inkjet colours on a light background. But anything else becomes fraught with issues. The problem is white. Not only printing white itself, but also using it to act as a background for other colours when used against a dark backgrounds. It is possible to obtain white inks for inkjets, but they can be problematic. OKI produce an CMYK+W laser printer, but they start around £3,000, so out of most mere mortal's pockets. There is a product called "Ghost" for colour lasers which comes as a toner cartridge, so one prints the white onto a clear transfer film, and then feeding the same sheet through a second time to add the colour. Right now, this seems to be the most cost-effective solution, but is still not cheap for the average modeller.