Ancient history. Try this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWjUg56sgdNgqck published mid summer, 2024.

Yes, the ClockSync interface does vary from Android version to Android version. And, it's great that you solved your problem with a new router. But why didn't the old router work? All I can think of is that your MBOX is set to get network time from whatever router it's connected to and your old router was manually set to incorrect time. Perhaps its time zone setting was incorrect. Did you try manually setting the time on the old router? Did you try different firmware? I had to overwrite the most recent firmware update on my Netgear R6050-AC750 with a much older version, because the new firmware deleted the router's timer functions! The so-called firmware update also lowered WiFi power making connected devices run much slower. So, your old router might have a firmware issue. Just wondering if you tried any of these things? In any event, ClockSync should have worked (assuming your version of Android allowed you to configure it) because ClockSync ignores the router's time, ignores the ISP's time and syncs directly with an NTP server. Hope this helps. Thanks for commenting.

@@LawrencePina Fist thanks for the answer, Maybe it's asleep, but ClockSync hasn't worked in any way. I restarted about 30 times, leaving it off and letting everything discharge (capacitors), and it still starts in 1969. The router is from the ISP and is obviously locked, as we all know. If you call them, they'll say it's not their fault and that nothing can be changed on the router for security reasons-typical ISP excuses. It's strange because I've never touched the NTP settings on a router before. I've seen it, but I never paid attention to it on the hundreds I've configured for my clients. But in this case, something seems to be happening. What's funny is that if I ping the NTP servers, they're not blocked. But at least this generic Chinese TV box is giving me a headache. I've seen crazy things with them; the Chinese don't respect anything. I work with TV boxes daily-some have misleading RAM and specs, and with others, the manufacturer ceased to exist years ago, yet suddenly, my clients call me saying new notifications appeared. When I check the devices, they've reconnected to some server in China and updated, adding 15 tons of bloatware with useless APKs like FindMyPet and others. When I plugged in an old router I had at home without touching any settings-a basic and old TP-Link-the problem was fixed. What I don't understand is why in this version of Android OS 10.1, ClockSync doesn't work and the menu looks different. I don't have the buttons to configure it.

@@LawrencePina Solved, was the Huawei router and the ISP refusing to change the sntp on the router, i explain the problem and then de guy says, i try, test it in a few minutes, and boom works..

You are correct. "Running on fumes" is just an expression. It's not accurate.

Not much to go on, here. What's the make and model of your TV? For this to work, both the TV and the TV box must have some version of CEC built in, and CEC has to be turned ON both in TV settings and TV box settings. Also, CEC only controls HDMI connected devices. CEC doesn't work with component or composite video devices. And, if there's more than one HDMI controllable device connected to the TV, you have to select which one you want CEC to control in TV settings. I've had reasonably good luck with CEC using both OEM remotes (the ones that came with the TVs) and with aftermarket remotes. One thing I forgot to mention is that after a power failure, CEC stops working. You have to go into both TV and TV box settings to turn everything back ON again. So, you shouldn't turn TV equipment ON/OFF via a power strip once you get CEC working. Hope this helps. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

@LawrencePina thank you also I have another question I just realized the kodi software on my m8 is 4.4.2 I'm pretty sure it's very outdated so osnthe android software but I can't figure out how to update it

To run newer versions of the K app on old TV boxes limited by Android 4.4.2 and S805 processors, you have to install Alex Elec (or LibreElec) on an SD card. This upgrade works great - really great! Complete instructions are here: www.dailymotion.com/video/x81fval Note that the download location given for Alex Elec in the video (Ukraine) is not working anymore. Instead, once you've identified your logic board, download Alex Elec v3.3.3 from here: github.com/AlexELEC/AE-AML/releases/tag/3.3.3 You might also benefit from watching these videos: www.dailymotion.com/video/x8b1s73 www.dailymotion.com/video/x8qkljv Good luck! Thanks again for commenting. Please consider subscribing.

You're right. That's what more experienced person would have done. I was just looking for the cheapest and easiest way to get the stud out. It worked. I only needed to buy one head bolt to fix the lawn vac, but maybe next time, I'll try taking a head off. The town dump is loaded with discarded lawn and garden equipment. I'm in a blue state. Nobody wants repaired. Everyone wants new. Thanks for commenting. I will follow your advice next time...

Might also be a dead battery. These two videos should help you to determine which it is: kzbin.info/www/bejne/haSkmYyKecx4qJo - XP2260 Not Charging PART 2 kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWbMk3xoaLqKeaM - DieHard 950 Good luck! Thanks for asking.

Dead battery is a common problem. It is replaceable. These 2 videos should help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/haSkmYyKecx4qJo - XP2260 Not Charging PART 2 kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWbMk3xoaLqKeaM - DieHard 950 Battery is easily replaced on these units. You can do it! Thanks for asking.

Unlike USB ports on computers, the USB ports on portable power packs have no data lines. They supply +5V DC power only. They're used to recharge cell phones and tablets, Kindle devices, battery operated GPS devices, tactical flashlights - all sorts of equipment. My Depstech endoscope has a rechargeable +5V battery. The mini-keyboards supplied with our Android TV boxes have rechargeable +5V DC batteries. Pretty much anything made to be operated and recharged using a cell phone charger can alernately be operated and recharged on a USB-equipped power pack. Hope this helps. Thanks for asking!

You may also have the bright spots problem shown here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqeYpGOBqdmBjpI and here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpLEeHh6fdyqd8k in videos titled LCD/LED TV Repair Secrets - Bright Spots on the Screen PARTS 1 and 2. Replacement LED strips will correct both problems. Just be sure to order HQ aftermarket strips, not new OEM strips, and definitely not remanufactured OEM strips. If HQ aftermarket strips are not available for your TV, then you can also try fixing/remanufacturing your existing, OEM LED strips. This video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o4iTgHSPfreXp8U titled LG 42LN5700 - 47 LN5400 LED TV Screen Repair Secrets shows how. For confidence, read through the comments on these videos. Most people who attempt the se repairs are successful. Even if you fail, and we all fail sometimes, the TV is already broken, so you have nothing to lose. With patience and typical DIY disposition, the odds of success are with you. Good luck! Thanks for asking.

@@LawrencePina so I deconstructed my tv and to look at the backlight. And those round clear lenses were all attached and i realized that 4lights were dead. And all lights was bluish purple. Not white. But what i am not sure is that replacing all back lights would fix the blurry dots problem. This is not cause by the dettatched little lenses. They were all on each led.

Ok, good job! That tells me you also have this problem: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpiWpoSXg7BjgNE "LCD/LED TV Repair Secrets - Dark Blue Picture." Replacing the LED strips (with HQ aftermarket strips, not remanufactured OEM strips) will make the TV like new again. Order using the part numbers printed on your existing strips, not by TV model number. Otherwise, you might not receive the right parts. Easy job at this point. Good luck! Thanks for asking.

I agree, it's time for a new TV, but I hope you'll consider keeping this one and trying to fix it. It's already broken. You have nothing to lose. High quality aftermarket replacement LED strips are ridiculously cheap right now. If you fix it, you'll have this TV to replace the new one when it breaks. The life expectancy of the TVs they're selling today is ridiculously short. And, I guarantee, no new TV will give you more viewing satisfaction than a 6 year old TV fixed by your own hands. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

I felt the same way. So given the terrible reviews of new washers (they don't clean, they rip clothes, they break constantly, good luck collecting on the warrantee...), we bought the most expensive washer in the appliance store, an American made SpeedQueen. What a piece of junk! It was supposed to be EnergyStar efficient, but it actually used slightly more electricity than our old Whirlpool. Not much, but measurably more, energy use measured exactly as shown here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKHck517hLBqY5o in "Frustrated User Guide: Backup Power Project - E10 Laundry Room." The big problem though, was the discharge overflow. How do people tolerate it? We couldn't. Back to the appliance store it went. I'm so glad we kept and fixed our old washer: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g3O9Ynata55rnsk "Frustrated User Guide - 1989 Whirlpool Washer Rustoration PART 2 ." It was well worth the effort. Saved us a ton of money and no new washer being sold today, at least none that I'm aware of, even comes close to the durable model we already had. Why" "They don't make them like that anymore!" Hope watching Part 2 helps you. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

@@LawrencePina thank you Lawrence. I did watch your videos and another few from others. I decided to remove the gearcase and motor but am still stuck. I can get the brake to budge. I decided I'd just replace that as well as tub but now they seem so fused together there is no moving them.

No, it's not a power issue. It's an LED problem. You can easily prove it by putting a new power supply boards these TVs. Nothing will change, unless you replace the defective LED strips. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

You're wrong in this case. I agree that cracked solder on connector pins is not always the problem with automotive relays. It wasn't on my Jetta's fuel pump relay kzbin.info/www/bejne/boHXnJtpntSJasU (in that case it was carbonized contacts) but cracked solder certainly was the problem on my wiper relay, and here kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXfJY4mulLmYgpo on my shifter module, and on every one of my VW door locks, and on countless other electronic repairs. As for the capacitor, that was cheap, preventative maintenance. Otherwise we risk, "You know that wiper relay you fixed for me some time ago? Well it's doing the same thing..." Who wants to hear that? Please consider watching kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpnPf5itoc17abc "Radio Repair Secrets - Sony TA-AV411 has distorted sound from one channel." Much better pictures of cracked solder joints in that video. Cracked solder is a very common problem. Once you know what to look for, you'll find it everywhere. Use the method shown in this video to resolder and your percentage of successful electronic repairs will go way up. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

My very early model 470 came with an 802 desoldering gun. Later models of the 470 almost certainly would have come with different desoldering guns. You mention the 817 and 809, but you don't make clear which desoldering gun came with your unit! So, visit hakkousa.com/support/support/user-manuals.html Enter 470 in the search box and download the manual which most closely matches the model you bought. Referring to this manual, hakkousa.com/support/support/user-manuals.html which closely matches my old 470 station equipped with an 802 gun, and assuming you also have an 802 gun, you're going to need: A pack of A1009 ceramic filters for the 470. A pack of A1033 ceramic filters for the 802. A pack of A1030 spring filters for the 802. All three of these are listed on page 21. A pack of A1003 desoldering nozzles, 1 mm or 0.04" (most useful size). A B1087 cleaning pin for use with A1003 nozzles. A B1303 cleaning drill for use with A1003 nozzles. All of this stuff is listed on page 2. The heating element, should you need one, and you will if the tip is missing metal like an old auto exhaust pipe, is an A1029. The heating element is shown on page 21. The cleaning pin (looks like a screwdriver) used with the A1029 heating element is a B1259. You'll definitely need one of those. B1259 is also listed on page 2. You might also need a long cleaning drill for use with the A1029 heating element. I have one, but I'm not sure of the part number. I haven't used it that often... Soldering gun maintenance (use of these tools) is covered very well on page 12 in the manual. One thing the manual overlooks is periodic A1012 O-ring replacement. The O-ring, shown on page 21, is located at the back of the filter pipe. Over a period of time, it petrifies, cracks and causes a vacuum leak. Keep it lubricated with silicon grease and replace it often. The green color, nitrile, O-ring currently in my 802 came from a Harbor Freight O-ring kit, sku 67644. You can also get very inexpensive assortments of micro drill bits, sku 61526 or sku 94606, used for cleaning A1003 and other size nozzles from Harbor Freight. Hope these part numbers help. The 470 is a wonderful tool, but there is a long learning curve and you need all this stuff in order to maintain it. Good luck with your 470! Study the manual. Thanks for asking about it.

Read through the playlist comments. I've not had this problem but others reporting similar symptoms say that the air hose tends to fall off the barb inside the unit. To fix it, they just push the hose back on. As for part numbers, I'm pretty sure you'll find the URL of a Schumacher parts vendor in the one of the Portable Power Repair Secrets comments as well. I've not ordered anything from that vendor, so I don't remember it. You'll have to read through the comments. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

It's because we willingly buy the stuff and consequently we're the ones who have to dispose of it. Consumers are left holding the bag. If we refused to buy the stuff, then the corporations you mention would be left holding the bag and they would be the ones who'd have to dispose of it. Of course, anyone who thinks this way is considered a domestic terrorist and a threat to our democracy. Best to adopt the woke way of thinking: Throw it away and buy another one. That's how we save the planet!

@@LawrencePina are there any TVs that are superior in the market that you would recommend?

Sorry, no. The display panels of those sold in the US are all junk IMHO, made to fail just out of warranty, because new TVs, new appliances, new cars, new everything, every year or two is what the US consumer wants. Remember what Uncle Scrooge constantly told his nephew Donald Duck? "The customer is always right." That having been said, I prefer to pick late model LG and Samsung TVs out of the recycling shed at the store (aka the town dump) because inexpensive, HQ replacement LED strips for LG and Samsung are readily available direct from Chinese aftermarket vendors. That is generally NOT the case with other brands. Remember, excluding the TVs with smashed LCDs, 99% of the TVs in the recycling shed were discarded because of burned out and/or shorted LEDs. There's no escaping it.

Yes, but most likely you have an edge lit TV like the one shown here kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJLMlI2niZKkjNE in an episode titled "LCD/LED TV Repair Secrets - Half of Display is Barely Visible." Edge lit TVs only have a single row of LEDs at the bottom and use a light guide plate to direct the light upwards. One or two open LEDs at the end of the row would cause the vertical gray/dark column you describe. Cheap enough to fix. Good luck! Thanks for asking.

What capacitors? There are no electrolytic capacitors in an LCD/LED display panel assembly. And, unlike CRT (cathode ray tube) TVs and monitors which had to be discharged using a high-voltage probe before disconnecting the flyback transformer from a recently lit CRT, HV is not present in an LCD/LED display panel. There's nothing to discharge.

@@LawrencePina I was wondering because I want to take a donated broken TV apart for the LEDs to repurpose for a light box project

Too slow? Try watching in 2x, 3x, or 4x...

No room for a socket and a ratchet at that spot, but a ratcheting SAE wrench might have worked. Unfortunately, I only had a set of ratcheting metric wrenches and none of those fit the bolt head very well. Thanks for reminding me. That's why I had a set of ratcheting SAE wrenches on my shopping list! I had completely forgotten why I'd written that. It's tough to get old...

Yes, you might be able to replace it, but usually the air hose just falls off the barb inside the unit. Read through the playlist comments. Others have had compressor problems and usually they just clamp the hose back on. As for part numbers, I'm pretty sure you'll find the URL of a parts vendor in the one of the Portable Power Repair Secrets comments as well. Not something I've ever used so I don't remember it. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.