Dominic, I agree with jambusspeakermouse1325 and MarkATrombley about scraping the narrow side(s) so that you have the full "thickness" of the bars to minimize their bending when they are not fully supported. Also, jambusspeakermouse1325's recommendation about using wooden handles is important too. Even the large camelback straight edges of 3-4-feet (0.91-1.22-m) length have wooden, Bakelite, or plastic handles to prevent body heat from causing them to bend/warp.

Narrower. I'm doing the exact thing myself. If you use the wider surface it will just warp and won't be as stable. By the way, cold rolled isn't the best for this as it has more internal stresses. Hot rolled cools down slowly which allows it to normalise. Obviously the best material would be cast iron but i don't have the money for that. I would recommend making some wooden handles if you want them very accurate. That will help handling but will also stop your body heat distorting them. Doesn't sound like it would be an issue but i definitely noticed it with mine after hours of scraping. Something else i noticed was that room temperature impacted them as well and on very hot days they would have different marking patterns. You may want to start off with lapping compound as scraping steel is hard work. Best of luck!

Nice work, making something from nothing! It may be turning a little fast, but if the disk is running true, I think it will work ok. Cheers!

I would do the narrower side, the bar will be stiffer in that direction.

Dominic, this looks like an interesting project! If the large disc ends up turning too fast, you may need to bolt/screw a smaller disc onto its side and use a second belt to drive a 2nd large disc which could hold your yet-to-be-received lapping discs. That would allow you to get a much slower RPM for lapping/grinding your scraping inserts. The "slow" grinders that I've seen for things like sharpening wood chisels turn much slower than your existing large disc. If your belt slips too much on the motor's shaft, you'll probably need to increase the OD of the "pulley" that you are using right now. Also, if you are willing to show your viewers what tools, tooling, materials, etc., that you have, one or more of us may be able to recommend a way to use what you've already got to make a tool, do something easier, etc.

Looks like you have a good working idea. 👍

I think making a new lantern post to hold the tool holder is the easiest and most practical. I have done that on my SB 7" and it works pretty good. I look forward to seeing what solution you choose! KOKO! (Keep On, Keepin On)

I vote for gray. My favorite is "Rustoleum Smoke Gray"". KOKO!

I will be getting a new (to me) shaper in the next few days. Watched all of your videos over the weekend, and greatly enjoyed them. 😋

At about 26:00 you forgot to stone the workpiece before rubbing the straightedge on it. But it didn't seem to matter because after scraping from both directions you appear to have gotten a much better pattern of blue high spots. Is your stone ground to be truly flat, i.e., a "precision ground flat stone" according to some other KZbin channels that sometimes show scraping? I've never tried my hand at scraping, but did buy a hand scraper (much shorter than yours is) to try scraping one day. I *think* Stephan used(?) to sell them, but I'm not sure. Since you work in a Machine Shop, perhaps you could use a surface grinder to grind both sides of your stone during your lunch break? Thumbs up!

If you can find 3 pieces of iron to make some flats with i recommend doing that first. 3 plate method except use maybe 700mm x 50mm if you have them. Then you compare a to b, b to c, c to a etc as you follow the method. Then you have a surface to use that you can trust. From there i would use that surface you made to check the machine base where the ram sits. Be careful and do this. Color your 3 plate surface. Put down on base way. If there is blue in the middle it is probably convex. Next clean surface just tested and do again. This time applying down pressure on the edge of one side. There shouldnt be blue on the other side. Do the same with the back. Make sure to understand the initial as is condition of the surface. Convex is harder to read than concave. Then pick a surface area to leave alone and slowly work your way. The ram has an adjustment to feed the tool down. You can use an indicator in that and feed down the vertical walls to check perpendicular at that pont. Sure not correct but good enough. I would tread lightly on the scraping. It shouldnt be out too much as hobby machines shouldnt be completely worn out. The riskyou face with a smaller than surface flat is you cannot tell the correct profile. Practice with 3 plates first. They will self check flatness to each other.

I think you are doing very nicely! In the beginning I thought your cuts were not deep enough, I did not see any nice chips, but in the close-up around min 38, you are doing great. The pattern also looks realy nice. As for the gauges: I would not worry to much, these are deep spots, they will never contact anything. Congratulation on your subscribers rise. I got a sudden rise in views from my last video, but no subscribers. Maybe another day!?! cheers Erich!

Is it steel or cast iron? Ideally you want to scrape cast iron. Scraping steel is very tricky

From ergonomic point of view, your table seems to be too low. You obviously have to lean into your workpiece and you have a precision task at hand. Ergonomics translate into precision.

i am enjoying your videos..

👍👍

130 subs+ in one week! That's a lot. Good news it is :)

Scraping takes a lifetime to master. 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Nice Maker's Mark branding iron! I know I'm watching this video 8 months after you posted it, but I'll make a recommendation that you may still see. To keep moisture in the wood from corroding your camel-backs and test indicator/height gauge, I recommend that you obtain some pieces of Volatile Corrosion Inhibitor (VHI) paper to line your boxes. The paper is coated with a chemical that evaporates(?) and fills the box(es) with the VCI vapor, preventing corrosion. There are different types of VCI paper, but I've seen it work extremely well before. Since the VCI paper basically emits an anti-corrosion vapor, the lids need to be kept closed so that the vapor doesn't blow away. Also, if you do get some VCI paper, comply with the warnings most likely printed on the non-VCI-chemical-coated side that warns to ensure that you wash your hands if you touch it, especially before eating (and probably before wiping your eyes, etc., with contaminated hands. Soap & water will remove it from your hands. Perhaps the Machine Shop where you work uses VCI paper to protect materials and/or products/jobs from corrosion and they'll allow you to get enough to line your boxes?

Dominic, the video shows the table/knee deflecting downward during each cut. I *assume* that your machine cut a taper in the bottom of the space between each tooth. If so, you may have reinstalled the ratchet gear 180° from how it was when you initially cut the teeth nd that may be why the tool would not line up in between the teeth. Some shapers have a rigid support for the table to minimize or prevent the table deflecting -- perhaps you can make something like that?

Dominic, did you find any manuals to help you with your shaper? Thumbs up & subscribed! ;)

Nice job, very good explanation

That shaper is going to scrap, if you scrape it. Leave it alone, practice on something else and gather knowledge and tools to get the job done.

Sent over from Rustinox.👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Hello, Rusti sent me. I’m looking forward to your entire shaper series. Subscribed 👍

Hi, Rusty sent me, just subbed Cheers

The nylon (or teflon?) block in the upper pivot in an original part. Over the years it swells up a bit and just needs some polishing with sand paper to give it a loose sliding fit. (and no play) Replacing it with bearing brons is not a good idea because there is no access to lugricate it.

I don't have any advice to give, since I haven't done any scraping.

You can only scrape a surface flat when you have a reference surface that is bigger then the surface you are going to attack. The first method with small reference is I think wrong because that flat part is able to rotate or twits without you knowing.

Cool, I remember seeing plans for the alignment tool probably 40 years ago. It looked a lot more complicated as a bunch of drawings, seeing an assembled tool makes it look a lot simpler. I guess you had to make all the parts to see how it fitted.

Funny, just 3 months ago, I made a very similar version for scraping in the bed of my Colchester triumph. I'm not yet done (with the scraping (taking off nearly 1mm)) but the tool is a charm!

Very nice work sir

I'm having a difficult time understanding the concept of what you're doing? The reference surface that you're using is the same surface you are attempting to measure. Any irregularities in your reference surface will be transcribed to your measured surface. ??? #2 is more personal experience. Having owned a number of shapers, whipp, atlas and currently a Hendey Universal... because the ways are full contact, they seem to not wear unevenly ..... between being full contact and slow moving, I have owned shapers that are a hundred years old and have seen a lot of use.... without appreciable wear on the ways. Pivot points, scotch gear, bed, bed ways .... yes. Ram ways .... no. Two suggestions. If you desire to measure flatness, or parallelism, twist .... I would suggest using a surface plate as a reference. I would also suggest, and maybe you have done this, measure the flatness of the cut surface. That is the core of the pudding so to speak, if you are getting a longitudinal cut curve, surface, obviously that would not be optimal. On the subject of shapers.... yay. What my shaper can do is not particularly unique, also have a mill, but as yet I refuse to remove it from the shop. Limited space and every square foot is valuable, but the shaper still has a place ....

Touchdown!

Just use the tape measurer. It is easier LOL. 😀

Hi again. By the way, another channel that buit a really nice one is "Watch Wes Work". Cheers, David

Hi and well done. I am watching with interest because I will be building a "King Way" soon myself. Tried to buy a kit but no one seems to make one. Restoring a Mazak. Need it for all the ways. I will be following and copying you. Thank you for your time and effort. Cheers, David from Australia.

I think I understand your approach. However, given that the scraper body is not very big, wouldn't it be a lot easier to use a surface plate and marking blue to determine the high/low spots?

That's a well thought tool you made there. A bit more of tweaking and it will work just fine.

Thanks for sharing. I look forward to more of your videos.

Koozie works perfect. Seeing you, me, and Michel are shaper lovers having our stickers together is perfect.

there is a video on my page of my shaper. its about 5000 pounds

Hello there. I would definately not do anything to that access hole. I can`t see it will make the machine more rigid, except if you weld it in. But that would more or less damage the machine due to stresses. So dont bother. It is the way your shaper is designed. Concerning the colour I personally choose Resada green RAL 6011. Keep posting 👍 Best regards Thomas from Denmark

my forklift has a very hard time with my shaper.

Thanks for the shout out. That's nice.

Shed cleanup and archeology are not really far from each other :)

Quite the job. I imagine you found stuff you forgot you had. 😀

That is very interesting. I certainly did like the investigation with the dial indicators.

Very nice work sir

i have to admit having power down on my shaper is a luxury