@luisLP5752 it uses an independent cantilever suspension, not like tradition car or motorcycle/dirt bike. They produced this design in the mid 90s and have had success since due to the lack of maintenance required. It uses plastic/rubber rods to create a dampening effect which functions as suspension. Those rubber rods(4) are within the square housing at the pivot of the cantilever arms. In general, I would not suggest a goped for anyone who lacks mechanical inclination. They do have failure points and not many cities have shops that are already knowledgeable with gopeds. In theory, any small engine repair shop can fix these, however, not all small engine repair shops are willing to accept this platform for repairs(unwilling to learn outside their comfort zone) The carbersteurs require nearly constant tuning. I'll start a ride in the evening, sun up and 80 degrees. But after a brew at a local bar and the sun goes down, it'll be 60 degrees for the ride home and the carb needs less fuel to be happy. Clutches wear out and need changing, that's a complete motor off job. Cables wear out. I had the "off cable" wear through and was grounding on the frame causing the goped to not run. Luckily I was able to understand enough to disconnect the "off switch" eliminating it from the system allowing the goped to run. Weird things happen and on a ride, you'd be stranded without alil know how. Definitely a hands in experience. This goped is basically stock, it's regeared and has some engine mods but it's very close to stock form and functionality.

@leonardschindler3166 lowering the car increases the CV angle. Lifting the car flattens the CV making a long life for the axles. Zero issues due to the lift.

​@@JChurchuahow much lift did you get from the springs? I've seen some people say 4 inches and others 2 inches.

@inkmaster6271 cable related not clutch at all. Look at the throttle arm that moves when you pull the cable. I bet it's way open right now, likely not resting right under the carb or is pinched somewhere along the routing from throttle to carb. Also, if the carb gums up then it'll keep itself open.

@@JChurchua yeah i thought that too i diconnected the throttle and started it and it was still revving extremly high weird i think im just gonna install a new motor

the whole clutch assembly? smacking it with a hammer to dislodge it from the shaft. You can see me fo that in the video and can probably slow it down by 2x for a better view. once the bolt is removed the only thing holding it in is pressure or oxidization.. A solid smack downward should dislodge it.

@@JChurchua ok is how do I connect all the spring pieces back together I’m doing it right. With a piece of wood I’m installing the connecting pieces inside the motor there were it turns , I don’t see a screw that comes out

@@yanishameesh7965 connect the pads/springs and then force them onto the triangle center. Its actually easy once you do it, but i get being alil nervous about hurting it. i think i set it on the ground and stood on it. that expanded the springs, aligning the pads and slipped right in for a finished assembly.

​@@yanishameesh7965Do you mean, at timestamp: 6:58 ish? just pressure forces it flat.

@@JChurchua my thing is how do u get the triangle part out.? That idk how I’m to Scared to do it to brk it I have a Home Depot hammer and don’t want to brk the triangle it’s stil in the motor .

215/75/15 General grabber ATX

Hard to answer that. go google "tdiclub ghetto mod rear air shocks" I followed that DIY, i routed the shrader valve into the gas cap area. Fairly easy to do, 100% worth it. 40-50psi is the sweet spot.

Everything ford makes is garbage. There are extension that thread on the end of any shock that will fit VW ; koni , Bilstien etc and will provide enough travel with the upgraded springs

2wd TDI. We never got a 4motion diesel mk4 in the USA.

I suggest replacing the struts with bilstein B6s or similar, since they have longer travel. Rears as well, the F150 rear shocks provide a lot of travel. I used all new springs and struts/shocks, definitely stiff to begin with but broke in and rides really well. Having the stock shocks will make them over extend regularly and eventualy bust id assume.

Still around and car is still running and drives oh so smooth. KZbinz doesnt always send me notifications though... So, if you are familiar, the rear top is a bump or "nipple" hanging down that captures the rubber mount/top ring of the spring. I left the oversized diameter top ring as is, oem, untorched and let it "settle wherever it wants..." to be honest i havent looked at it in ages... But it rides well so i assume it is still within the nipple.. lol

Id suggest replacing the pan and then getting a "panzer plate" or similar metal shield. Much cheaper than replacing a motor! lol. Its definitely a fun vehicle and gets tons of looks.

problem with battery is that they are expensive to replace.