Great channel, it's better to have less informative videos that to create videos on weekly schedule even when there is nothing to say. Month ago I bough Bambulab A1 Mini with AMS being surprised how cheap it is and thinking it may be fun for not that much money. Issue is only that it occupies old TV table and it's not small or compact at all. Yeah and it has few tiny design flaws (or annoying features), but what does not. Technically there's G-code for benchy print at 17 minutes which can be speed up (ludicrous mode) by 66% to 13 minutes and something, but why ... it throws 5kg heavy printer like 2mm side to side because adhesion between rubber and table is poor ... i mean wooden table below and vibrations even transfers to the floor. It prints PLA, PETG and PCTG at 270C fine (maybe TPU as well?) and software is basically the same OrcaSlicer with integration of site with models. Sometimes I would like 25cm at least in one axis or both to get diagonal space as well, for printing ASA/ABS i can ask some colleagues. I would prefer to get Průša, but when I looked at it, it's twice as expensive (compared to A1mini without AMS), from youtube it seems like it's at least twice slower and build quality is like ... basically threaded rods and 3d printed parts instead of rails on aluminum profiles mounted on part likely from stamped aluminum frame and covered in plastic so build quality is on different level. Průša can be upgraded, repaired or modified easily I guess, but it's not something I'm looking for for the very first printer.

I'm new to 3d printing, but my only Issue was with Filament PM - not the filament itself but with downloaded print profile which as two and half times volumetric flow than profile from bambulab. Material was extremely brittle with very poor layer adhesion. On the other hand, it was only filament which was packed in zip-lock bags, which are better than nothing for storage. PS: to make it clear, after setting volumetric flow from 16mm3/s to 6mm3/s, and adding a few percent to extrusion, prints are perfect.

Thank you for the video

hi hope you can help when i add a SVG logo to my box in the svg setting i dont get the the operation option at the bottom and use surface and from surface are greyed out any ideas ??

Am I the only one that would just use the mounting holes already built into basically every power strip ever? It will be easier to mount/unmount, use fewer screws, and hold stronger.

In a few years they find out that Carbonfiber from 3D printers cause lung cancer. And no-one "could have imagined" that short stiff fibers can cause that. 😂😂😂

Not a native speaker. To good and clear pronunciation :) German? Subscription is done.

Да ты ж мой золотой, спасибо тебе!

What's the B---- system being described around 2:10 onwards? The speech is very fast and the accent is a little strong, and the CC definitely can't work it out - it would be good to have terminology shown on the screen for the next version. 😊Vielen dank! Btw, there is so much useful knowledge in this video, and the free download guide looks excellent. Thanks again!

my .svg logo wont cut onto the object, it will only add. Is it because my object was built as a mesh?

Just get Capton sheets 6.3x6.3 and apply to your build plate and forget about magic glue and other stuff it works with abs petg and pla.

Another good video with some great advice. I just moved over to Orca Slicer and have been printing with it, for the last week... it's an excellent slicer, with a well balanced combination of Cura/Prusa features. The z-seam functions are robust and they've improved overall quality. I've bumped my speeds by about 15-20% and get the same quality prints.

I'm interested in a printer to make Knife Scales for my own knives. Any ideas?

quick tip in 2x speed he's making kasane teto fukkireta head movement.

Thank you for this and your other solid information videos . Its a very welcome change from the common " look at how great this printer is that I've been using for 5 minutes " .

Is it just me? Or is there something with the sound?

Excellent stuff!

Great topic, thanks 👍

gibts auch deutsche videos von dir ?

Simply splitting the print into smaller parts printed in different orientations can make a huge difference. I've had problems printing a big basket for my wife's bike in 2 prints, it always broke during printing, and when I finally got it right - it broke in use when she drove over uneven terrain. I redesigned it to print in 8 smaller parts with different orientations for the bottom and for the walls, and not only I saved lots of support material - the resulting print is much stronger, and when she had a crash - I only had to reprint the part that connected the basket to the handlebars - everything else survived because the weakest point was the 90-degree bend :) Another thing I learned is that it's better to join it to the bike with flexible joins (basically - design holes in parts and tie them with rope) - so that there's some amortization for whatever is in the basket. BTW - instead of a bolt you can use a zip tie through a hole for compression :) Or even just a piece of string or rope.

4min in and your humor got med subscribed.

ASA is indeed hard to print. There is a big interaction between the material and the process. What you described here are EXCELLENT points...MANY THANKS Here are some additional lessons I have learnt. 1) I find printing btw 30-50mm/sec produces the best line quality. 2) Printing at 250degree Celsius with plate temp of 105degree seems to get best results. Use a temperature tower to characterize the best temp for the filament brand you are using. 2) To get best strength and quality, Stay away from tiny nozzles. 0.6mm works best. Maximize line width, around 0.5-0.6mm works best. 3) First Layer Height and Flow Rate is CRITICAL to achieve bed adhesion. These 2 parameters are inversely related. Increase First Height Layer and decrease Flow Rate. I find (0.2mm height+0.95 Flow Rate) the best for plate temp of 105Celcius and the filament I use. You need to experiment with these 2 to find the best combination for your setup. Avoid any Z-height offset, especially if your printer has a Auto Leveling function. 3) If your design involves tiny parts, I have to print multiple parts, layer by layer, to allow the tiny part to cool off before the next layer is printed. This prevents squishing of the uncooled material. It's been a journey. Good Luck !!

You have excellent dry wit. Subscribed.

The problem with getting started is the fact there are no honest reviews and recommendations. You're all being paid to push specific models so of course those will top your list.

Wait... there are people who turn Z-Hop on?

Thanks for sharing 🙏

You’re absolutely right with the key messages in the video - however ramp and spiral z hop modes have solved the stringing issue. So it’s less of a compromise as it used to be

When I started 3D printing, Z-hop wasn't even a thing. It was very long ago. I started using it to avoid knocking over fragile supports and fragile and thin print parts. I often use extra fluffy supports with extrusion width smaller than nozzle size by a lot. I usually dial in nearly homeopathic amount of Z-hop of like 0.1mm and use diagonal Z-hop in Orca to overlap the vertical and horizontal movements to waste less time on it.

z hop has always been a waste of time

I like the way you say "Z" 🇨🇦 o7

Awesome video, thanks! Like someone else said this is so high quality I didn't think this could be a relatively new/smaller creator, very impressive I hope you grow a lot! Love the lifting white board btw lol!

3:45 I have never ran into that issue with either Orca Slicer or Bambu Studio... That's interesting...

THANK YOU! I have been plagued by seeing "just enable Z-Hop" to fix any minor issue in print groups anytime anyone asks for help...

This seems aimed at PETG 😅. Here's what I recently learned for PETG: 1. Set fan cooling to 30% or less unless bridging 2. Set retraction to about 1.8 mm 3. SET INFILL SPEED AND ALL SPEED TO LESS THAN OR EQUAL TO 60 mm/s. 4. Use an infill that crosses over it's own lines very seldomly (like gyroid). PETG tends to over extrude when the nozzle starts at a postion due to oozing and infills that require crossing lines stop extruding and start extruding incredibly frequently. It's also helpful to print a temp tower with your PETG to dial in the best temperature. And avoid crossing perimeters just for an extra layer of safety. It's also important to point out that MOST of the time you get a layer shift, it is because of bad bed adhesion on a large print. A corner will start to peel off and the whole print will lift just enough to snag the nozzle. I've found that using brims and printing the first layer 5 to 10 degrees hotter really keeps parts snug on the build plate - a texured build plate is chef's kiss for PETG btw. Finally, before you print PETG for the first time, do yourself a favor and get a silcon sock for your hotend just in case you end up with PETG spaghetti that stuff is a nightmare to get off your hotend AND can destroy your heating element and thermistor if it wicks into them (which it likes to do). You do all of this and you shouldn't need z-hop.

Tiny z-hop with high retraction would work? My first 3dprinter comes in 2 weeks i'm exited.

regarding slicer tuning. I found that setting a much lower value for resolution takes longer to slice, BUT it creates much more unison surfaces. it seems that turning off arachne,arc and lowering slicing tolerance to 0.004mm forces the slicer to render the model as the model is. and not all the "non aligned" walls i get with it on. :) for tpu i found that the best plate with the least hassle is the pex one. iso wipe and off to the races. sticks like to glass but releases like from painters tape when its cooled down. amazing surface that i think tinkerers would like very much. apparently u can print petg on it as well but i like to cook that first layer hard to gloss it out so thats not an option on the pex afaik. a little tip from me to you. try to move your hands outside frame or not have them appear in and out of frame like this. to me at least it is a bit distracting.

regarding abs. i get stronger layer adhesion with fan off than on. from 10-30% works fine with x1c, anything more than that and the layers separate very easy. i had so many hours wasted tuning filament for stringing, after i started drying all filament before use i never deviate from standard anymore. it just works out of the box imo. i will keep this information about the speed part and layershifts. i dont get layershifts on my rig,YET... so good to have this information going forwards :) cheers mate. regarding rigid toolheads. it seems that the toolhead on the bambu lab x1c i very rigid. i cant move mine even with quite some force..

I just want z hop for better chance of not hitting warped edges. I'd rather have my print a bit slower than have it failed because I wanted to save 10 minutes

Perfect prints here with z hop enabled. K2 max 0.6mm hop 230mms print speed 35mm³s max volumetric flow rate.

I'm with the others, if I have tree supports that are long, I'm using Z hop, otherwise I only use on the top layers

Zero PETG strings on my BambuLab with z hop enabled and even avoid crossing walls.

only truth u should know about zhop - bambulab has it enabled ibn stock profile.

Orca slicers allows you to set the z-hop type which wasn't even mentioned... The slope or spiral lift types both are designed to greatly reduce the stringing your referring to as being so bad with it on. Most printers have really high travel move speeds / accelerations which also can also cause the nozzle to contact the print. At best, this will cause gouging on surfaces or could even knock a print loose. Granted, this effects bed slingers way more than corexy printers... I think its just your printers that do not benefit from z-hop, but others certainly will. Z-hop is a must have for my printer and only improves the quality of the prints coming off. I think your being a little naive to its usefulness in some peoples situations.

You can speed up your z-accels on a V0.2 a lot more than the default config with no issues. I'm at 400 with no issues and a default setup.

Thanks for the video. There are some excellent tips and suggestions even though I’m still struggling to understand their meaning. I’m brand new to the hobby. I’ve just obtained an Ender 3 (OG) printer. I’ve muddled through a few prints with the quality of the prints being surprisingly decent. That being said, I’m trying to learn PrusaSlicer setting by setting. Are there preconfigured filament setting files that can be downloaded? Seems that the filament manufacturers would provide these but I’ve been unable to any, except for those provided in PrusaSlicer. Can the material profiles for one brand of PLA+ Matte be used for all PLA+ Matte filaments? I have a ton of these questions. I’m slowly making my way through your catalog but any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the videos

I've never used z-hop in all my years of 3d printing... people use z-hop?

"Slower" is literally about 10ms per hop for me. Not nothing, but small. The way slicers do z hop is dumb af, but it could be smart: moving with no hop until outside starting part, moving up linearly until crossing into dest part, then descending linearly to target point. And this would have zero time cost, on top of being immune to stringing.

I’ve been using the spiral z-hop (which tends not to string) on my ender 3 v2 since switching to orcaslicer from Cura. I think the quality was the same or better between the two slicers, but I should probably do an A/B test for just z-hop…