How I took a Voron 0.2 from unusable to incredible | FYSETC kit experience and troubleshooting

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Large 3D printers attract a lot of attention. But bigger isn't alway better. In fact, going small is a viable choice for many applications. It even comes with quite a few upsides that are often overlooked.

[@3DPrintSOS]

I have been battling the "over extrusion on layers 2-4" issue for probably month, maybe more on my Fysetc v0.2R1. I’ve even delayed the review video for it because I couldnt figure it out. I even took it apart and reassembled the rails and the z axis. So a massive thank you to @BallisticTech for pointing me to this video and a massive thank you to you @Small Batch Factory for pointing this issue out with a solution. Crazy simple yet had me totally stumped.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

I'm glad I could help! Can't even remember how I managed to figure it out back then

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Now that I think of it I would be very grateful for a shout out in your review video :-) if you don't mind of course.

[@3DPrintSOS]

Oh for sure. I was planning to. I was pulling my hair out before this.

[@rembrantsworkshop]

I had this same issue with the LDO kit, took a little while for me to track down.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

@rembrantsworkshop starting to sound like this should be mentioned in the official Voron manual

[@DesignbyNilsson]

Just like you i bought this machine for fun and now Its my favorite. Its so simple and easy to work with! My big V-core 3 and my Caribou are just collecting dust as long as the prints fits the small printbed. Nice video BTW!

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Thanks! Same here, after the 0.2 I built a 2.4 but it's only used when I need the large build volume. It's just not suited for small prints and vibrates like hell when you print small parts fast. Plus it has some issues with the first layer, I always need to watch and do micro adjustments when I start a print...

[@itsame6217]

thank you so much for the hint with endstops. I would have searched for a long time.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

You're welcome! It's my Christmas present to you, happy holidays :-) When I built the printer I thought I couldn't be the only one, this must be something everyone with this kit must encounter.

[@brianginn1993]

Really enjoyable video. I’m new to 3d printing and couldn’t follow most of your topics but your delivery was fun.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Thanks! Building a Voron is a pretty advanced endeavor so don't beat yourself up about it. Over time you will get deeper into the details. If you have anything specific you feel isn't explained well on KZbin let me know, I'm always looking for video ideas.

[@henrymach]

I found out the same thing about ABS and my mind was blown

[@Voidroamer]

dang, if they still had the green ones i'd pick one up just for a display piece!

[@SmallBatchFactory]

If you insist you can buy the colored extrusions separately as a kit on Aliexpress

[@RixTrix]

Great breakdown - I want to build a voron eventually as buying my first printer in November (Sovol SV06) has made me learn I enjoy the tinkering aspect of the hobby the most. That’s partially because I can’t yet design my own models and am far from being able to think like an engineer in any way (yet?). However, building a Voron looks like a great project to get my hands dirty with electronics and building - two things I know I want to get some experience with, and having a super fast CoreXY machine sounds fun too. The Voron 0 isn’t quite cheap enough for me to consider buying a kit for it over the 2.4, but I still have quite a lot of time before this project can feasibly happen. In the meantime I need to figure out how to optimally print ABS, which means I need to finish building my Lack enclosure and figuring out an ideal way to vent fumes from it + my office. Living in Germany is awesome! But the windows aren’t ideal for setting up ducting, especially when you rent an apartment. So that’s stuff for me to figure out and when that’s all in order, I’ll get to finally try my hand at building a super cool machine. Hopefully there’s better deals on kits by then too if I’m lucky.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Sounds like a plan! I got a video on printing ABS too. You can't set up a duct but you can do "Stoßlüften" :-) other than that you can also tilt all windows so you could put a duct through. You get a lot more value with the 2.4 kits but TBH I found it also harder to get to run. Still haven't perfectly tuned the first layer distance, it always changes a bit. My 0.2 is fire and forget, that's pretty cool. If you're eager to learn modeling you can check out my new course. The first chapter is free to watch! smallbatchfactory.com/fusion-360-fundamentals/

[@RixTrix]

@@SmallBatchFactory I feel like I’ve become an expert at Stoßlüften since living here. My wife and I have alarms for two 5 minute airing sessions per day 🤣 I just was hoping that I could set up a vent that connects to my printer enclosure, with a fan that I could control based on the air quality or something via Home Assistant…perhaps this is a bit ambitious for a first big project in my new adventures in DIY. I’ll be sure to watch your ABS video and once I finally have some time, I’m going to deep dive in Fusion360, likely following your videos to get started. Thanks again for the great vids - looking forward for more. I’d be super interested in a breakdown of different filaments and Slicer settings.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

@RixTrix seems like it's a mandatory criteria for German citizenship. If you haven't already check out Liam Carpenters channel, he's an English guy mocking German habits in a very funny way. I could image a special window frame made of wood for your duct. Wouldn't be a save 24/7 installation though. That would be very cool. Let me know if you have any questions along the way. Quite a few people are keen on the Slicer settings so I already placed it high up on the ToDo list!

[@robertkruger8180]

Had the exact same issue with the ambilical cable. I just bend all the pins a tiny bit so they get jammed tighter into the connectors. Sometimes klipper didnt recognise the falling temperature and the the extruder got clogged up. Was a fun few month and multiple disassambles until i found out what was wrong with this damn thing. Sad i just stumbled over you video now! 😂

[@SmallBatchFactory]

I did that too and for a while it worked. But eventually the issues came back. It's a combination of the short top hat and a really stiff cable. Now even the MCU started failing. At first they asked me if I made sure the USB cable was properly plugged in... I told them I even replaced some of the poor quality cables they delivered and that they should honor their warranty. They sent out a replacement MCU immediately, I still have to install it and see how long it keeps working.

[@robertkruger8180]

@@SmallBatchFactory Oh god, i hope mine will hang in tight for a while. The seemingly effordless speed of this tiny thing is impressive, thoug!

[@SmallBatchFactory]

In case it breaks I can highly recommend using flexible silicon wires for the umbilical.

[@calmarcalmar]

I like to your introduction words very much ...smaller the better. If that is true, it has advantages all over. Price, storage etc.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

In many many cases it's definitely enough. There are also strategies to build bigger models out of multiple parts like screwing them together or built in designed plugs. For open frame printers it's usually not a big price difference though since you don't need much more material. Escept for the print bed, which is much more substantial and needs to be very even or a mesh leveling for bigger printers.

[@HReality]

Where did you find that corner cam mount? Ive been using the mount next to the rail but that looks much cleaner.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

I made it myself, really quick and dirty. I can upload it if you like. It's just glued to the side panel with tape. You'll need to break the lens loose a bit to focus this close.

[@802Garage]

Vid was randomly suggested to me and I definitely enjoyed. Subbed!

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Great to hear, thanks!

[@x4FF3]

are your profiles also multiple shades of green?

[@SmallBatchFactory]

They were not all perfectly the same but I tried to hide the ones looking different in the back. Intention from FYSETC is to have them all the same shade.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Get great results every time by following my free Design and Print Checklist: smallbatchfactory.com/design-and-print-checklist

[@420247paul]

I want to see the ABS printing trick mine still look like shit

[@SmallBatchFactory]

I'll make sure to schedule a video. The short version is you need some kind of enclosure, even if it's just a cardboard box, a good bed adhesion glue like Magigoo and set the fan depending on the size of the printed part and print speed between 20% and 100%

[@SmallBatchFactory]

It is done, the video is here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHexhWakhNl7qbc

[@skaltura]

tiny printer for me would only make sense if it's made sturdy, 60v, super super high speed for quick prototypes. sadly, tiny hotend can't even do that, and voron 0 uses small profiles etc.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Voron is what you make it to be. "24/7 printing" moded the heck out of it for a 3 minute benchy for example. But what you said is true, it's usually the hotend limiting the speed.

[@XeonXR6]

24v bus bar?

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Everything is 24v including all the fans. Except for the Pi's power source of course

[@XeonXR6]

@SmallBatchFactory I was guessing what the two PCB strips were for 😅 I was wrong.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Yeah, definitely. But it was a unfair question any, I failed as well 😅

[@XeonXR6]

@@SmallBatchFactory 6 months later, I just pulled the trigger on a FormBot kit. Wish me luck!

[@SmallBatchFactory]

@XeonXR6 good luck!

[@dovid916]

paused at 2:25: I can only guess power distribution Edit: Oh.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Totally intuitive, right?

[@dylanlasky2389]

I hate the unexplained parts/upgrades. Yes I can figure out what they're for with some reasearch, but YOU put them in the kit! Just tell me why!

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Yes, definitely! I was glad they uploaded a build video, otherwise I had probably found out about those PCBs for the linear rails when it was already to late...

[@dylanlasky2389]

Yeah, I'm building the siboor kit for ender 3 to switch wire and there's like 4 components that I've had to figure out how to use including 2 breakout boards

[@SmallBatchFactory]

@@dylanlasky2389 that really sucks, especially if you have to search electronics documentations. Feels more like I'm at work than doing a hobby.

[@captainmcadams]

They are called side quests… a bit like a Zelda game 😂

[@SmallBatchFactory]

@@captainmcadams Reminds me a bit of the "another settlement needs your help" annoyance in Fallout 4

[@davidolsson]

4min in and your humor got med subscribed.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Much appreciated!

[@br3nz3l]

You have excellent dry wit. Subscribed.

[@patrickberger4115]

Like the video, but a bit more passion while talking would be great ..move your face and arms 😂..u like a robot . Anyway...good infos!

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Thanks! I worked on that in more recent videos. It was really hard to think about what to say while being expressionistic. Switched to writing a script upfront since then and started moving my arms. Some say a bit too much haha

[@AndrewAHayes]

When PETG came out it was reccomended to turn of the part cooling fan, I forgot to do this but my parts came out perfect, when I Itried with the fan off the parts were a mess!

[@SmallBatchFactory]

That's a common issue. We've been told "keep the fan off" or "turn the fan up" but never really educated why. Basically you need as much fan as necessary to prevent your part from becoming a blobby mess. Alternatively you can slow down printing, but where's the fun in that?!

[@BallisticTech]

I think the V6 CHC clone you found can actually be mounted to a standard "Dragon" Mini SB mount. I used a similar set up in my Formbot V0.2r1 Until I switched in an actual Dragon HF

[@SmallBatchFactory]

It's a tad bit longer AFAIK so I made a version with a little recess where it fits tightly. I didn't trust my self tapped holes enough without the recess. Without cutting off the top it would've probably fitted in a V6 holder.

[@Alex-fh8ov]

So could you please share this design? Happened I ordered the same Hotend... Happy Holidays @@SmallBatchFactory

[@SmallBatchFactory]

@@Alex-fh8ov it's on Printables, here's the link: www.printables.com/model/520784-voron-02-chc-v6-hotend-mount-ceramic-heater-core/files Merry early Christmas :-)

[@afkafkafk]

I am wondering if I'd have to pay import duties if I ordered it shipping from Spain to UK, probably would have to thanks to brexit

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Most definitely, yes. But you could order it directly from China. They're a bit cheaper and customs apply in any case

[@_numanair_]

Those extra bed extrusions can be used in a hex-zero 3-belted bed mod!

[@SmallBatchFactory]

I've been thinking about cutting them to make the top hat ~10cm high instead of the current 7cm. Would give the cables a bit of clearance.

[@KennethScharf]

If those "PCB"s are threaded, then they serve as the "nuts" for mounting the linear rails. Might be easier than feeding in T nuts.

[@SmallBatchFactory]

We have a winner here! Hopefully you didn't cheat and skip ahead ;-) They're not threaded, but will self tap when you screw something in. The solder mask is rather soft.

[@KennethScharf]

@@SmallBatchFactory didn't skip ahead, though I have seen something similar done with 3d printed nut guides. I would probably stick to the T nuts myself, I'd think it would be too easy to over tighten the screws in the PCB material to the point they wouldn't hold very well (nothing that a little locktight wouldn't fix though).

[@SmallBatchFactory]

Surprisingly they held up pretty good so far. I'm usually tightening very firm and had no issues whatsoever. The linear rail carriage needed some Loctite after the tool head came lose at some point.

[@jasonjennings6686]

Oh that is a great mod. I used no drop nuts which were helpful, but this would be much better.