@@ozmanfidaar6311 No, they have not included a fan on this one. We're in the process of testing this one out and will provide a longer test video later in the fall. Stay tuned! Thanks for the sub!

Hi I've been back and forth with renogy support and this device was getting 180 degrees on a hot day. Be careful there is no active cooling

@livebrando thanks for the heads up, we'll keep an eye on it.

@@livebrando If no active cooling, it's a no-go in my books. I've seen people adding cooling fans to Victon units (supposedly a premium brand) and one KZbinr actually has shown how efficiency declines with the units heating up. I have a 15A Victron shore power charges, it does get hot and I wish they added active cooling fans.

Is there something that we can help with? We can work around sometimes.

Thanks for the comment! This has been a huge benefit for our full-time life. We do not have a video about the bike rack. We had our local metal shop (folks who do custom welding, install snow plow mounts, etc.) fabricate & install a 2" receiver for a bike mount insert to the bottom of the trailer. So we could also take the rack and insert it into the truck. A year later, we had them reinforce it the mount and it's worked great ever since. Send me an email at [email protected] and I'll send you some photos.

@@tarheel4wd Awesome! I hope you got a discount with our code! Let us know how it works.

@@bearpkc Yes, but you'll need to pair it with the Renogy Battery Shunt 300. renogy.sjv.io/1rLo3D This will allow you to connect any battery, any chemistry wirelessly to the Ren ONE Core monitor. You can save an extra 10% off with our promocode "CANLIFE". All the best!

You're so welcome! Thanks for the note! We'll be doing an updated online presentation, with a whole lot more, this weekend at the Vintage Camper Boot Camp Summit (Friday, August 23rd at 4pm PDT) Check out here. vct-boot-camp.heysummit.com/?sc=cl1dFRro&ac=zIxSdSOs Registration is free to participate, use "CANLIFE" promo code and get 20% off the full access pass.

Thanks for the feedback. It's worked without a problem for over 3 years now. We learned some things through this project and there's some things we would do differently if were to redo it.

I'll see what we can find out about the LED light, it's not very intuitive for sure. I'm not sure what you mean re automatic on / off feature? Can you clarify?

What's going on, and how can we help?

@@FreedomInACan thanks for the reply. See, my boss bought the whole package last year. Two 400Ah 12V LifePo4 rego batteries, 110V inverter, combiner, solar charger etc. I installed everything on January and ran al the possible tests. 6 months later [last week] boss comes to use the RV and one of the batteries ain't working. It's got a red light blinking on the status área. And I really dunno what the cause may be or how to fix. Any idea what may be going on? Also do these batteries can hold an AC unit or Microwave? Cause its blowing all the protection fuses I put in

@@nanref0392 For Battery red light, it's telling you what's wrong, see the HUGE manual - store-fhnch.mybigcommerce.com/content/RBT12400LFPL-SHBT/User%20Manual_REGO%2012V%20400Ah%20Lithium%20Iron%20Phosphate%20Battery.pdf Page 43 is trouble shooting.

These batteries should be powerful enough to run the AC for a while, and definitely Microwave. Is it blowing your circuits in the AC breaker box? That sounds like you've just got too much load in one circuit. Does it blow when plugged into shore power?

@@FreedomInACan im testing the circuit 1 by 1. Everything is off just AC is ON. Is a Coleman 15 110vac 10A. And is blowing 100Amp fuses. NOW... Everything in the RV'd breaker box seems to work fine, overload nor overheat right voltage and amperage. But the cable that connects the combiner and inverter (2awg copper wire 660v) is the one overheating, installed a fuse for safety and goes up to 150Amp blowing the fuses.

@@Mr_SynergyPerformance Thanks for the great question. It is my understanding that the risk of leaving panels illuminated, but disconnected, is more about an unplanned shock (wires not plugged into a circuit in the off position) rather than any damage to the panels. But let me ask our engineer friends at Renogy and get back to you with more specifics and reasons. Sound good?

Sorry for the long delay in returning to your question. When you disconnect the solar panels from the charge controller, they are no longer in a circuit. So, they will produce a voltage when illuminated but no current, because there's no place for it to go, just like turning off a switch to an outlet. The only danger is if there's a potential for a short circuit when suddenly something unwanted causes the voltage to become a circuit, i.e. you. But with proper MC-4 connections and switches, there's no harm. Make sense?

@@kkopetzki The Battery Shunt 300 works with Bluetooth, so it can connect wirelessly to either the DC Home App on your phone or the Renogy One Core monitor. We think that the monitor is a better way to go.

thanks

@@BRabbit716 For Sure!

The bad news is that they are not making the M1 compatible with the Battery Shunt 300. It will only be compatible with the Core. Bummer for sure.

@@kyfisher3662 what I think is most helpful about the Core, and what makes it worth the extra money is that you can see both the state of charge, (right from the BMS, rather than the shunt which is an estimate) and the solar watts coming into the system, all from the home screen. This has really helped us out in lots of situations. But hey, it's your money and you do you.

@Maxid1 - We are Renogy Ambassadors and reviewing products is one of the things we do for them -- but that doesn't mean it's not a fair assessment. The app has certainly had its challenges, but at this point I wouldn't even mess with this older tech to monitor your off-grid set up. The latest generation of wireless monitors are far superior, in our estimation, and for the past year we've been using the Renogy One Core monitor in our own rig without an issue. Here's an installation video for that one - kzbin.info/www/bejne/kILUmaiJg6p4eqssi=AkETRIaNNZKHrnGC We use a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery set up, so they connect through blue tooth. However, if you have AGM, GEL, or Flooded Lead Acid, you can connect using the Battery Shunt 300. And here's a video that we have about that one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hH20aYh3e8Sbr5Isi=pzqTOvQTSdUA3etz Happy to answer any questions you might have about the installation or options or troubleshooting. Thanks and hope this helps.

Yeah, for sure, you can do it that way. An Anderson connector makes a good disconnect for the towing vehicle. Also, it does work with LiFePO4 batteries, just have to select the appropriate mode on the charger. More info and videos: DC to DC chargers can be put in the tow vehicle or the trailer. These devices take the trickle charge from the alternator while you are driving, pump it up, and send it to whatever battery bank you choose. They come in two different styles (standard and dual input) -- and can be incorporated with solar in a variety of ways, making them very versatile, especially when the weather isn't cooperating. This video shows a 20A standard version. He uses it to augment the SOC on his trailer battery bank while driving between campsites, then uses a portable solar suitcase while camping. Alternatively, here's an example of a 30A dual input version with a little hack we added recently. We use ours in a couple of different ways to charge two different battery banks, depending on what needs to be charged at the time. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d36pe6CciLF9Zqssi=fA_vV62hVCyIGV-q And, here's the step-by-step installation of the dual input version from a few years ago: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6OamH6IgNVql7ssi=ByGLxHgIs5HeP2ee Finally, here's an example of a standard 60A REGO DC to DC charger installed in the trailer: kzbin.info/www/bejne/moenYqKIfsx1h8Usi=6WXt2oAPNVHBb0mk as well as the wiring installation on the truck: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6S1o3yBr7yjfNEsi=kS0MmNHzXefl6s7e Appropriately sized Anderson connectors between the truck and trailer are your best bet! Hope this helps clear things up! Use our link renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY and promo code CANLIFE to save 10% on Renogy products.

Hey there, thanks for the questions. I believe that only the positive wire goes through the switch, so that you can turn on or off. Also, the manual is showing that it can handle less than (<) 30V, so 12v or 24v systems will work fine. Hope that helps!

Also having trouble with this. I have followed the installation instructions and I can turn the led lights I have on but the reboot switch does not turn them off. Can you send a picture of videos of how yours has been worked up please 🙏🏾

@@alexmoore4031 Not sure if I totally understand your question. See 6:00 in the vid, where we install the led lights and fan to the switches. If you are still having trouble, send us a photo of what you have to [email protected]. Thanks and hope that helps.

Thanks! Glad it was helpful. So many people try to guess and either undersize or oversize their system, hence the video and all the seminars we offer. Regarding batteries and components overheating, always check the specs of your components before you buy them. They do have min/max temps for safe operation. You'll want to keep some air flowing in the summer in the southwest. Some folks use small cooling fans connected to a thermostat so they automatically come on when too warm. Just build the fans into your average daily watt hours and they can run on solar too. For freezing temps, some LiFePO4 batteries come with a self-heating function. We have Renogy's LFP PRO batteries right now and they've been rock stars. Check out this review video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/paG1oJeDjtBon9Esi=tHIqwyv8bKxiVhTv

Well so far, Renogy products have been good. Can't say that about their shipment process. I ordered over $1000 worth of equipment and most of my shipment has been lost - even Renogy can't track it. Three weeks since the original order and another two weeks minimum until I actually see the equipment I bought. Any suggestions for other vendors is welcome.

@@andylaco3811 man, that sucks. Sorry for the snafu!

DC to DC chargers can be put in the tow vehicle or the trailer. These devices take the trickle charge from the alternator while you are driving, pump it up, and send it to whatever battery bank you choose. They come in two different styles (standard and dual input) -- and can be incorporated with solar in a variety of ways, making them very versatile, especially when the weather isn't cooperating. This video shows a 20A standard version. He uses it to augment the SOC on his trailer battery bank while driving between campsites, then uses a portable solar suitcase while camping. Alternatively, here's an example of a 30A dual input version with a little hack we added recently. We use ours in a couple of different ways to charge two different battery banks, depending on what needs to be charged at the time. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d36pe6CciLF9Zqssi=fA_vV62hVCyIGV-q And, here's the step-by-step installation of the dual input version from a few years ago: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6OamH6IgNVql7ssi=ByGLxHgIs5HeP2ee Finally, here's an example of a standard 60A REGO DC to DC charger installed in the trailer: kzbin.info/www/bejne/moenYqKIfsx1h8Usi=6WXt2oAPNVHBb0mk as well as the wiring installation on the truck: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6S1o3yBr7yjfNEsi=kS0MmNHzXefl6s7e Appropriately sized Anderson connectors between the truck and trailer are your best bet! Hope this helps clear things up! Use our link renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY and promo code CANLIFE to save 10% on Renogy products.

@@FreedomInACan super helpful thank you!

@milesb4231 Glad to help, holler back with any further questions.

Actually, lots has changed since this video was made. You can just get the reverse polarity adaptor and SAE connector, too, if you need it. All links and info about this are in the comments and the video description. Hope this helps!

For this older unit, yes, it is only designed for use with Renogy LFP batteries. BUT, the updated Renogy ONE Core monitor can be used if you purchase their Battery Shunt 300 to wirelessly communicate with any non-LFP batteries and/or any other manufacturer's batteries. Here are a few links to learn more: *Renogy ONE Core: renogy.sjv.io/jrkQDM Installation & Review: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kILUmaiJg6p4eqssi=BfRR3xh2B94KNl8Q *Having used this device for over a year now, we can honestly say we truly love it! **Battery Shunt 300: renogy.sjv.io/1rLo3D Info/Update/Review: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hH20aYh3e8Sbr5Isi=4G6CgyqZPRpAkz01 **This product is crazy popular! As soon as they get them in, they are sold out again. Stay on the lookout for them. Let us know if you have further questions.

@@andrewtaylor5421 Well done! You'll love it. Thanks for using our coupon code too. Let us know how you like it when you've got it installed.

Hi, we're great! You? I don't know, but will find out and get back with you. Stay tuned...

@@eddanca Can you take a picture of the screen where you are seeing the remote control option? Send it to [email protected]. Thanks!

@@eddanca Got an answer from the Renogy's engineering team in CA. Here's what they said... "The team tells me it is for a future development and is not a useful function at this time. It is potentially being prepared for some shortcut operations, such as matched scenes, and may subsequently add some energy device operations, such as the inverter switch, the controller load switch. I cannot say whether it will be a retroactive function or moreso supporting new items like a distribution box system that we are currently developing." Hope this helps!

The wire nuts were actually crimped on, so no simple unscrew. The irony here is that within a year of this video they started making very cheap reverse polarity adapters, which are even simpler. We noted this change, even linked, in both the pinned comment and video description, that few people actually read. Thanks for the feedback!

No, You're the best, Em!

Huh?

Hey, thanks for the nice comment. We're able to run a lot with this 400W panel - when we put it out we're able to top up our battery bank even while we're working. Here's a link to everything on our system, freedominacan.com/solar-powered-by-renogy keep scrolling down to the bottom. One thing to keep in mind is that this particular panel (400) doesn't come with an included Charge Controller, so you'll need one if you don't have it already. Good luck and Let us know if you have any other questions. And use CANLIFE promo code at Renogy to save an additional 10%! renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY

You're very welcome, and thanks for the comment. We're going to be sharing some more videos later on in the summer. Stay tuned!

Thanks! This comment made our day. We hope you figured it all out, but let us know if you have any questions. Also, if you choose to go with Renogy, be sure to use our promo code "CANLIFE" for an additional 10% off. Plus they've got a wicked sale going on right now, from June 12th - July 3rd! Good luck with the project!

Thanks for the comment. We never tested with BT-1 module. When we were testing the Battery Shunt 300 , (see video kzbin.info/www/bejne/hH20aYh3e8Sbr5I) we had our 2 x 100Ah LFP w/ Self heating function LFP Batts connected to the Core monitor via BT-2 and the shunt at the same time. We found that the shunt was slightly less accurate than what the BMS was communicating through the BT-2. I don't know if that claim was about SLA batteries, or not, perhaps it is more accurate with those? FYI, we now have 2 x 100 LFP PRO batts installed, with built-in Bluetooth. These are awesome batteries, give them a look - kzbin.info/www/bejne/paG1oJeDjtBon9E Let us know if you have any further questions, happy to help.

@@FreedomInACan I'm running 2 of the renogy 200ah with built-in blue tooth currently. They have been great. I have the shunt but not the bt1 was just curious

Fake camper? Haha, you clearly haven't watched our channel. How does 12 years on the road in our Vintage rig sound, plus a lifetime of backcountry? Check out our website freedominacan.com. We work with several brands, but only one Solar company. Keep on rolling!

Thanks!

No worries! Just a helpful tip, go ahead and ground the DC to DC all the way back to the Starting Battery!

It's an 8 quart Lodge! Had this thing for about 20 years, and should easily outlast me!

@@FreedomInACan Thank you sir. That's definitely the beauty of cast iron.

Hey there, thanks for the question. While we don't have another video, we just wrote a blog concerning this issue -- freedominacan1957.blogspot.com/2024/05/summertime-strategies-for-staying-cool.html#:~:text=System%20Integration%20Options,a%20few%20ways%3A Concerning your issue. How many panels do you have on the roof? I'm guessing 2 x 200W. So when connecting all of your panels together, roof and portable, they will need to be similar wattages. If you want to simply go through the same controller, use a 200W portable. Or you could have a separate controller for the 400W portable, (see our review of the Renogy 400W Lightweight kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnXKpGyIltaIoaMsi=mQX0D4-50Sc0dKwI), or lastly do the hack we showed in this video to isolate your panel arrays so that you won't loose the efficiency of the 400W. And if you want to go with Renogy, be sure to use our affiliate link: renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY and promo code "CANLIFE" for 10% off. All the best, and let us know if you have any further questions.

@@FreedomInACan Thank you!!

Thanks for the help, no one reads the video descriptions... haha! We made this one way before these small, cheap, adaptors were readily available.